Ian_Gere

Oh I agree with you SD, it's just that to someone who doesn't already know the arguments/considerations for the various ways of doing things, the way you wrote it was pretty impenetrable That's another reason for concentrating on maximum compression - by allowing the use of weaker main springs your motor is under much less strain, whatever gearset you choose. Yeah, a weaker spring increases the likelihood of pre-engagement, but even using 14:1 gears and an SHS high speed motor (which does have the power handling necessary to pull springs up to M110 via high speed gears without running out of sheer torque and slowing down as a result) you'd have to be running high voltage before you reached rates of fire where that could become an issue. As you say, SD, a MOSFET is also the way forward, for all sorts of reasons, but specifically in this case so that the power of, say, a Turnigy Nano Tech 25-50C 7.4V LiPo* can be delivered instantaneously to the motor so the initial few milliseconds of trigger response are not compromised by the additional power requirement to get a higher stress set up like this moving from its static position. *From hobbyking.com (if you don't find the shape you need under that link, look in the menu on the left under Batteries & Accessories > airsoft Batteries) / the sustained output of 25C is more capacity than full auto fire would generally need, but excess capacity improves trigger response anyway, however what makes these batteries so good for airsoft and in particular for fast trigger response is their burst output of 50C: ie they are capable of delivering a lot more power for the initial few milliseconds when the trigger is pulled than most LiPo's available from airsoft suppliers; it is these first few milliseconds that really count for trigger response, because to get any motor moving from static requires a great deal more current than it does to keep them running - a decent airsoft motor actually draws more current than an electric cooker very briefly, assuming the wiring and connectors can handle it. As SD says, rewiring with fat wire is also a must - these days i've stopped buying expensive silicone insulated 16AWG wire, or Modify silver plated low resistance wire, in favour of plain old Maplin power cable - the diameter of conductor is sufficient, the insulation is more robust, and it's a lot cheaper. I've also gone in for plenty of heat shrink - additional layers over parts of the wire susceptible to being crushed between the gearbox and receiver for eg, not just covering the soldered ends. Also there is a small but noticeable power increase from soldering the connections to the motor rather than using spade connectors.

I agree that it's not necessary to upgrade the G&G nozzle, but one way to improve the whole chain of airseal is to use good grease and liberally. I use this stuff: give the whole interior of the cylinder a light smear with a finger tip; slap plenty all over the piston head O-ring; put a light smear around the base of the cylinder head spout so that the nozzle O-ring seals better against it, but only around the base so the grease does not get forward enough that it could get blasted down the barrel as particulates.

SD, you've done it again, mate. My guess is that, unless someone already knows what you are talking about, less than a 1/3rd of what you've just said makes enough sense for people to take useful advice from it. As i understood the OP, he already has a V3 gearbox shell and is proposing to fill it with the parts listed in order to create a reasonably high cycle speed gearbox, without spending silly money, but also spending what it costs to be sure of decent quality. I'd say you're on the right track in the main, Chris, but just be aware that an M100 spring combined with a 6.01x455mm barrel will give you an AEG which is too hot to use on full auto anywhere in the UK. As a general rule 6.01mm is too tight for guns which you are intending to run with full-auto capability, fulfilling the assault rifle role, anyway, because you are probably going to want to use just averagely good ammo - Blaster 0.25g for eg. Predicting final FPS from a combination of upgrade parts is a bit of a black art, but really for us to advise you on the combinations to consider we need to know what FPS limit you are aiming to be under. Again as a general rule though, 6.03mm is the way to go for a 455mm long barrel in an assault rifle. I run a 6.02x275mm in my AKS-74U on full auto, firing mainly Blaster 0.25g BB's, and i've never had a jam. I suspect that you'd be ok with 6.02x455mm, but that would tend to make the calculations a bit of a pain in the hole. If you are intending to use it at sites with a 350FPS limit then, with the parts list you have above, an M95 spring and a 6.03x455mm TBB should chrono at about 345-48. But as I said above, I would choose the double O-ring piston head and an M85 spring, and be prepared to find some tubing to use as a grommet to pre-tension the spring a little if you end up chrono-ing as low as 342, maybe an M90 and be prepared to clip a couple of turns off it if you end up slightly over 350...

Oops, I forgot why i put that asterisk above... *I don't know which length of SHS nozzle you would need for an SHS hop chamber in a KA TM compatible receiver. I'm pretty sure that even the shorter SHS one is 20.5mm long which is about 1mm longer than a TM AK nozzle. There is an ACM aluminium nozzle with O-ring which is 19.5mm long - u can get it from taiwangun.com here (even though they advertise it as 19mm). I've just ordered one of these from gunfire.pl just so i can measure it, because i already have a spare one of those from taiwangun for my new RPK (which I also will be modifying for fast cycle rate), so on Thursday when it arrives I'll be able to tell you exactly how long it is, if you're interested. TBH i'm not sure why the difference between the various lengths of 'short' type AK nozzles makes any difference, especially when you have a delayer clip fitted, because surely so long as it makes good contact with the hop rubber, it doesn't matter if the tappet plate spring is pushing it slightly harder forward. Perhaps someone has an idea? Because I have had problems trying to get a replacement Lonex nozzle, rubber, and hop chamber in a CYMA AK to work together and the fix was to change the nozzle to a 19.5mm one, the same as the original CYMA.

I've never heard anybody saying how good Element bearings are, but I have heard plenty and have personal good experience with Kanzen. You don't have to go for their ceramic-uber ones, they do steel. I would also choose a double O-ring piston head because, well greased, they can produce up to +30FPS compared to a standard piston head and O-ring. For a high cycle rate build you need lightweight, so this POM one is probably a better choice than the Magic Box or PPS aluminium designs. More compression means more FPS from a lighter main spring, which increases the trigger response and cycle rate, plus increases consistency between the power of shots which is better for accuracy. I would also choose a POM delayer clip also, rather than the new steel one because, if you need to modify it to make it fit, it will be a lot easier to work. Although in this case it may well fit perfectly since you're choosing the same make of gears. Nonetheless, for future useability I would still choose plastic. Don't forget grease. I use CT-2 silicone grease with Teflon. If you are using a Madbull 6.01x455mm TBB then, even without a double O-ring piston head, you will have a hot gun: including an SHS nozzle* (which has an O-ring), then an M100 spring will give you about 385-90FPS, possibly a fraction higher. If I were you I would get the double O-ring head and both M85 and M90 springs with a 6.03x455mm TBB and see which spring works best.

There's a Madbull hopup chamber with built in tracer illuminator for M4's. That could be a way forward for you - iirc it's not such a stupid price, compared to other Madbull kit that is

Yeah, to bring my new RPK inline with my "armoury" I'll be swapping it to Deans and rewiring it to take Turnigy Nano Tech 11.1V LiPo's under the top cover, rather than in the stock where the battery fits OOTB and I have a Burst Wizard BW3 MOSFET lurking in my bits box which has a pre-cocking function, as well as the AB necessary for 11.1 volts. My plan for the RPK in the fullness of time is to set it up with a high cycle rate, hence the POM double O-ring cylinder head I ordered with the RPK as opposed to the aluminium Magic Box design, but eventually I will DMR it using a mechanical semi-auto only lock off. I'll be keeping it as a high FPS support weapon for the Balshoy Bolshevik Bash though so, if I manage to sort out programming the BW3 in the time I have between receiving it and the Bash, I will tune the ROF down to a real world figure - apparently it sounds great with this MOSFET because it keeps the fast cycle rate and introduces a delay between, in effect, discrete semi-auto shots. But my track record with programming BW MOSFET's isn't good, so this may all prove to be academic...

I've had 1 before: they are just about ok in use - like any other winding hi-cap, with all the same problems. Basically the only thing going for them is that they allow you to carry so much ammo without the massive extra length of an RPK type long banana mag. However the flange which holds them in place, the bit which you fit in first, is not very substantial. That's what killed the one i had before - went to do the rock'n'lock mag change as per usual and evidently didn't seat the forward part of the mag properly because when I rocked it, it just ripped the flange completely off. There is no way to repair it either as that bit is moulded as part of the whole body - even superglue is no good: it just comes off again after a couple of uses. But since i was ordering from gunfire.pl anyway, so could save on shipping, for £3.47 it's worth it as a back up, even if i get barely any use out of it before stupidity takes over again. The 1st one i had needed the spring which holds the latch across the feed tube clipped by a couple of mm, because it was so stiff that BB's wouldn't feed. I intend to coat the inside of it with a layer of that very thin, 1mm, packing foam to prevent rattle too. And having taken the decision to spank my Visa, I couldn't stop there... SHS High Speed AEG Motor for AK / PTS ACR/ G36/ M14/AUG Airsoft Ver.3/ 7 Gearbox - £27.30 posted 20cm Length AK Scope Sight Mount for Airsoft Marui Cyma Cybergun AK SVD AEG GBBR - £25.00 posted (considerably cheaper than any of the other Zenit kit clones on offer and the only thing that will differentiate them will be the paint job - but i don't care, it'll be getting deliberately scuffed up and/or painted anyway).

Yeah, pretty much safe to say that anyone who misses this one will really wish they hadn't. 4 places still remaining!

I was going to leave my next gun purchase until after the upcoming Balshoy Bolshevik Bash, but then I decided to have a quick check on Bluestreak's site FPS limits to see what, if any, mods might be useful in fettling any of the guns I'm considering taking with me. Turns out that as well as support weapons deployed on bi/tripods firing full auto @450FPS MED 15m, they also allow BASRs and AEG sniper rifles which are supplied from the factory as semi-auto only to fire @550FPS with 30m MED... Gulp! That's going to make sniping against local counter-snipers a bit tricky. My next gun plan was going to be making a DMR from an RPK and fitting it with a full tacticool conversion, but with a deficit of upto 100FPS I just don't see a role for it during the Bash - so I was faced with a complete overhaul of Svetlana SVD, or sack range and just play as a rifleman But I'm in really poor shape... even worse than at the end of summer when i had to hit the gym to be able to even carry an AEG for a few hours and I don't have the amount of meds needed anymore to be able to use them strategically to get me through a daily workout. Besides, what's the point of having credit cards if you don't occasionally spank their little pink perknesses So: CM.052A CYMA RPK - £196.28 (420FPS OOTB) airsoftpro.cz POM piston head w/ double O-ring - £8.95 (other double O-ring designs can produce +30FPS) ACM aluminium air seal nozzle w/ O-ring - £1.30 (could be worth +10FPS & definite extra consistency) D-Boys 1000rnds quad stack hicap mag - £3.47 (as backup to a drum mag will allow a lo-drag approach) GFC Tactical tandem RPK mag pouch x4 - £2.12 each = £8.49 (actually mainly for PP-19 Bizon mags) GFC Tactical double 40mm nade pouch - £5.06 (to replace my Soviet 1st aid pouch on my Splav rig) Total: £223.56 inc Free Shipping from gunfire.pl Edit: so i'll just play the support role and make it my mission on the day to help my team mates get the actual hits by keeping the HATO forces cowering in cover, being the self absorbed, cowardly, corporate lick-spittles they are

I've heard one too many tales of woe concerning JD's customer service to even consider buying something from them which may require after sales support...

The most important step for becoming yank-prepped is to make sure that your baeball cap brim is correctly curled. I think there's a Crye Precision tool for it...

Ah, the old teecackumvumsorb, often abbreviated to TCVS

I saw some of those little S&S blades t'other day and was tempted, just for the coolsies... but in the end I had to listen the the wallet quietly weeping with the Balshoy Bolshevik Bash coming soon. Plus I recently bought this too, just for the s&g's: ...which actually has a spring-loaded blade so it's illegal But I'm pretty sure that not only would plod have to be in a really bad mood with me to bother, but there's a good chance that they wouldn't even notice. Strangely enough I got it from fleabay, doubly against their policies on knives and illegal items, but what i found pretty funny was that it came from an Israeli fleabayer who also included a couple of heart shaped sweeties and a really tacky looking miniature torah on a keyring! Oh the irony

This is the feedback thread on me. Please let everyone know what an outstandingly wonderful person I am and I shall reciprocate.

I think I can feel a new patch coming on... & for me: SHS shims - £6.99 posted Scott mesh mask - £10.40 posted ~ fleabay WHITE SILICONE SOLID RUBBER SHEET 150x100x2mm - £2.45 posted (new gaskets for a hydration pouch and a canteen)

^^Depends how much you want to spend and how close you want to be to historical accuracy and/or current furniture/sight packages. That side mount which the C-More style RDS is on is an ICS one which cost about £50 new but, if your AK has a dovetail mount on the side of the receiver, you can get a decent enough one pretty cheap, like this or the QD version like this, or a very simple one like this. Or, depending on whether your AK is a TM compatible design, you could go for a full RAS like this, which puts a nice and solid top rail in the more usual position without the need for the dovetail on the side. There is also another type which bolt on underneath and through the rear sight retaining screw, like this, but they're pretty shitty so I wouldn't recommend one. There are also modern Russian stylee solutions based on the Zenit company's uber tacticool furniture - LCT do a B13 clone (which is a top cover with an integrated rail) but TWI have the best rep afaik, although none of the Zenit clone gear is what you could call reasonably priced, or even necessarily value for money. It does truly look TDB though The thing is that red dots are supposed to be used with both eyes open so you may be surprised by how useful a 25-32mm RDS on an RIS handguard can be*, but another option is to put a £25 MRDS on one of these which replaces the rear sight. You can get a dedicated mount for a Docter MRDS which replaces AK rear sights, but that's not a cheap solution either. *I've tried running a clone EOTech 551 on top of an RIS handguard on my tac AK, but my 551 has an EOLAD laser on the side which means that the whole thing is a bit of a fat chunk to have in your point of view, so it only lasted a single morning of skirmish experimentation, but I expect that a simple 551 or 556 clone would work ok...

That's a Kobra clone above - they are not easy to find. I got that 1 from dualdealshop on fleabay, but they don't have them in stock anymore. KH_Mountain used to have them too, but i think they are OOS too. I have used a C-More style RDS on a side mount rail too: ...from JS Ramsbottom here. This 25mm type works well on the top rail of an AK RIS too. If I hadn't finally managed to get a Kobra clone (I was looking for one for about 9 months) I was going to add some plastic or aluminium to the sides of this C-More style one and a tube for the sun-shield to make it look more like a Kobra... but fortunately I finally had money when dualdealshop got some stock: woohoo!

Don't worry about the size of pics, mate: it's a picture thread and basically, if people can't afford broadband, they can't afford airsoft

One of my patches @Skirmish Airsoft Mansfield 15/02/2015:

We live to serve...

5 places left now... you'll kick yourself if you miss it - just like me for missing the 1st one!

I bought a plastic peg-board & tubs kit a while back but didn't get round to attaching it to a wall - this thread has finally guilted me into pulling my finger out: ...although this is actually only half of it: there's another back board & more tubs but i ran out of rawlplugs and motivation For the moment i've just tossed a bunch of stuff that was lying around on my desk into it, but when I fit the 2nd board above this, I will have a major boost to the tidiness and efficiency of my gun teching efforts. I'm tempted to buy a few of the back boards to use to attach my guns to a wall in my back bedroom too, so I can use the same tubs for accessories, but that will depend on whether ordinary peg board hooks will fit into the holes... So, Undieing_Lust, what diameter is the steel rod your hooks are made from, please?

^^Hmmm... not so much ugly as fucking stupid

just my rather fetching business card - fucking RM though... how did they screw up a decent quality envelope?