Ian_Gere

Emphatically, yes.

A really soft rubber should help, like the two i linked above.

So the ACM PK-A red dot sight i ordered a while ago has been sat around getting acquainted with sweet Fanny Adams. The reasons were twofold - even with the locking mechanism completely removed it was too tight to fit onto a AK style dovetail side mount and even had that not been the case, the little turret where the wiring went from the switch into the tube stuck out too far so it could not clear an AK top cover, or indeed that of the PP-19 Bizon 2 for which i ordered it. So I dremmeled the side mount fittings: Tried to unscrew the turret: ...but it just spun round and round without coming undone. So I just cut through 2/3rds of it and snapped it off: ...then neatened it up with the Dremmel. Unfortunately I had cut through the black wire, however there was enough left to solder to the piece outside the turret - woohoo/phew! I then coated the wires in hot melt glue to make it BB-proof: And now it fits on the Bizon just fine: ...I can't remember what I named her, or even if I did, but she deffo needs a name now!

and when you get hit, Cossak dance all the way back to regen!

I don't know what "Big Out" is; brand name? But if the H nubs you mean look the same size and shape and also feel about the same hardness (as the Element brand ones do) then the difference is probably just the length of it - it's difficult to see because they are different colours so it creates an optical illusion. The best one to choose is the one which fits most tightly into your hop chamber. If however, like some brands, the white one has a wider gap between the flanges on either end, then choose that one for lighter BB's (0.2-0.25g) and the black one for heavier BB's (0.28+g). If you find that one is squashier than the other, then choose that for lighter BB's. No idea - airsoft-club.com do a couple of brands of H-nub and you can always find the Element ones on fleabay. Out of those 2, Madbull, but neither would be my choice. I'd go with either Maple Leaf 50 degree or Prometheus Purple (soft).

From ehobbyasia.com SHS Metal Shim Set (Octagon / Circle / Copper Circle) Item Number SHS-SHIM $2.50 USD 1 $2.50 USD RA-Tech Hop Up Stability (Cushion) General Type Item Number RAG-P-002 $7.00 USD 1 $7.00 USD SHS Steel Gear Sector Clip (Delayer) Item Number SHS-DELAYER $2.50 USD 1 $2.50 USD Discount -$0.60 USD 1 -$0.60 USD Subtotal $11.40 USD Postage and packaging $8.00 USD Total $19.40 USD

Not a bad idea to get some training eventually, if for no other reason than that you'll pick up a common syntax for types of maneuvers and ways of shooting, which will make communicating amongst yourselves better when you're under pressure and also allow you to work more effectively with other ppl and/or teams who understand the same lingo. There are plenty of courses run by ex-military types, but it's probably best to find someone/s who have done that course and see how relevant to airsoft they found it. There are a few ex-military ppl around the UK airsoft scene whose egos are not conducive to imparting useful knowledge, shall we say, but there are also plenty of good people around whose attitude comes from a genuine desire to see people enjoy the sport more. Of course it's not necessary to get training in order to work effectively as a team, but like anything, getting tips from people who are better at it than you can't hurt...

I want one that says "East Mids Death Squad" but so far I haven't been able to find anyone to design the logo - a hooded skeletal Death drawing the string of a longbow, but facing forwards so the arrow head is massive in forced perspective, not sideways like archers are almost always portrayed, but also not looking like a Scooby Doo villain...

IMO politics is basically about economics - where the money comes from and what it is spent on. Unfortunately there has been no new schools of thought to emerge and gain significant traction since the late 70's. What this means is that those who will be holding our collective purse strings were educated to believe that "the market" is to be considered as something akin to divinity and somehow the fact (with a capital F, underscored, and highlighted) that markets have always required laws to restrict behaviour which free markets encourage (and the free-er the market, the more they encourage such behaviours) in order to function as markets not monopolies and/or cartels is somehow of less significance than the fact that greed trumps altruism more often than not, hence pure communism, with a 100% directed economy, is not practicable. However of more direct significance to our current voting choice is what has happened since Monetarism became the hymn sheet from which all western governments began to sing... The idea that freeing up 'wealth creators' to do what they do best is beneficial to the entire economy is known as 'trickle-down', since the theory goes that when the wealthy have more money they spend it into the economy and this creates jobs in service industries and some manufacturing, which then creates jobs in all primary, secondary, and tertiary industries as the wages are spent into the economy, etc., i.e. the money trickles down from the top of the pyramid to the bottom. However the truth is that this has not happened. The experiment has had 35 years. The evidence is in. It has not worked. We can argue ad nauseam over why trickle down doesn't work, but what is not up for debate is that it doesn't. Personally I suspect that the fact that property prices in desirable locations have rocketed beyond all reasonable expectation in the last 35 years has a lot to do with it, but i suspect that of more significance is that it is a huge mistake to imagine that any national economy can be managed at national level, but our international organisations which, in theory, could manage global economic policies are run by the very people who have a great deal to lose were such policies altered (and it hardly matters what kind of alterations we may consider - if you're sitting pretty as things are, any change is bad, especially any change after which the consequences cannot be entirely predicted). So I find myself looking at Cameron, Osborne and Duncan-Smith and what do I find? They learned their trade sucking on the monetarist Thatcherite bitter tit. And then I find myself looking at Labour and wondering how the fuck the Milibands and Ed Balls got to the top? Well, they weren't Brown and Blair and I spose after Iraq the Labour Party knew that they had to put someone up who had nowt to do with that. Clegg? Betrayed his left leaning party for the promise of power and the referendum he got was a joke. So not only a traitor to the ideals he was supposed to be representing, but an idiot. Farage is basically a career politician - he knows full well that nothing he says will ever be put to the test, but so long as he keeps saying them, he will have a job and/or fees for appearing on telly. The Green Party are far better dealing with local issues and global policies than national government - IMO they just don't have anyone unpleasant enough to deal with the likes of ISIS... So I feel that nobody deserves my vote based on their policies for national government. At a local level, Lillian Greenwood (Lab) seems to have been no worse than any of 'em and much better than a lot so I feel that supporting her personally would not be something my conscience would haunt me with later. However my vote does have national consequences. It comes down to this then: I know the Tories will continue with monetarism and that it will continue to make the gap between the rich and poor increase. I know that the Lib Dems cannot be trusted and the one person amongst them who seems to actually understand that a massive shift in economic policy is needed, Vince Cable, does not have enough clout amongst them to drag the Party with him. That leaves Labour as the only party who could have the power and inclination to make changes (not that I expect the changes to be anywhere near as drastic as I would like)... For me then it's either vote with hope, or don't vote. People died for our right to have our minor influence on how our lives are controlled, so I can't in good conscience not exercise it. Besides, even though I am very tempted by the idea that if the majority of people spoiled their ballot paper, it would be a massive vote of no confidence and things would have to change, the truth is that the idea is so naive. Tory supporters always vote. Those with something to lose always do whatever they can to keep it. It doesn't matter than millions of them don't actually have anything they would lose were our government's policies more socially democratic, they just have a massive debt and a 'lifestyle', but they think they do... It wouldn't even matter if the majority of ballot papers were spoiled - British Governments are not formed by those who have a majority of cast votes, just the most. It wouldn't matter if 95% of ballot papers were spoiled, if some party had 3% they would be the government and the majority of people would be pleased that there was a government in place. This is Britain - even our poorest are better off than the majority of the world's population: we are not about to see a revolution!

The way I would do it (if I was into M4's which I'm not ) is to not bother curving the wire round in the same way it does when you have a spade connector on the end, but rather to cut the wire so it goes straight down to the motor terminals and solder them 'upside down' if you see what i mean.

^^I would always recommend soldering the motor connections - a soldered joint is always lower resistance than a spade connector, even when the spade connector is tightened on with a squeeze from pliers.

The only problem I have had with my 590x6.01mm PDI barrel is that it is finicky over ammo - so far I haven't found a BB heavier than 0.3g that is consistently round enough to not jam in the hop end of the barrel. The range I get from my SVD is truly phenomenal - honestly I can shoot man sized targets consistently at 100m...

The best technical info i've read shows that the BB transits the barrel in contact with the upper surface. Thus movement within a TBB cannot cause the rotation axis to shift as much as within a WBB. Personally I am unconvinced by the air cushion theory - i suspect that it may well produce outstanding results bolted to a bench, but in the real world I feel certain that mechanical movement (and the space within which movement is allowed), even tiny involuntary movement, and unintentional deviation from a firing position perfectly horizontal in the "Z" Axis, must prove to have the greater effect. But I do not have a WBB to test so I maintain an open mind, but hence the questions above...

^^Yeah, you're right, but I also wonder whether movement causes the BB to shift around inside a WBB so much that the hop effect is compromised - that the axis of rotation gets knocked so far off horizontal that the range is reduced as well as accuracy affected.

Actually I'll give you 10% desperation and another 5% mates rates off my AK-74M - the one that's in my siggy pic. It's in the Classifieds forum...

And you sir can fuck off and die...

^^Yeah, do me a favour? Try to notice if there is any noticeable difference in range an accuracy between shots taken from a steady and/or supported firing position and shots taken while moving, please.

I'm so broke :'( Still haven't paid off my credit card for that E&L AKS-74N I bought t'other week... It'll be a while before I can get any new toys.

Yeah, what do you do when you know full well you did shoot someone first though? I mean shit, there's no point arguing because a marshal would have had to be standing right next to you to see exactly how it went down, so they are obviously going to go with 50/50 as the way to prevent a row. I'd just once like to see a player own up to having failed their sneaky maneuver when they pop round a corner to shoot you, but you were aiming right at that space so all you had to do was press your trigger to hit them with your 1st BB, before they could even acquire you as a target, let alone fire! I spose it's because people get quite emotionally invested in the win when they have had to take, perhaps a whole series of, risks to get up close where 50/50's happen. Rather than row I've given a kiddie with a rubber tomahawk a 50/50, even though I was about 2m from the cover so he had to run towards me while i was aiming my pistol at the doorway, then him specifically, but only the once. That particular kiddie was constantly trying it on and seems to think that just talking over people as they try to explain that since he can't run at 350FPS he must have been hit first makes him right... I expect that to some people, seeing me refuse a 50/50 must have made me seem like a bad sport... especially when I've said things like, "You can fuck right off, mate!", but what can you do?

I've got an Auscam bivvie tarp if either of you are interested?

So it was just the volume interfering with intelligibility? If you turned up the volume could you not hear whispered transmissions better? Or was there no more amplification to be gained? If that is the case the fault may be with the microphone... Was there nothing about the quality of the reproduced voice that interfered with intelligibility? Like lower frequencies 'muddying' what was said, or excess sibilance obscuring consonants? Maybe the clarity of consonants like T, P, or B was just absent?

The pads on the cheekbone areas make the mask sit off your face, so yeah you can sport a tactical chin warmer under them with no problems. I made the pads out of a bit of sleeping mat foam and sewed the velcro hook strips to the pad cover nylon fabric before sewing it into shapes for the pad to fit inside. The fabric is the type used for curtain/dress lining - very light, durable, and cheap. I formed the pad covers like small bags, machine-stitched inside out then turned the right way before inserting the foam, before finally hand sewing the last seam. The velcro loop strips have to be sewed through the mesh by hand and I'd suggest making knots every 2-3 stitches so that if any bits of the thread break the whole strip will not fall off immediately.

Oooh, that's not so good. What qualities of the reproduced sound would you guess are interfering with intelligibility? I realise that for non-sound engineers describing sound can be quite difficult, but please have a go using whatever metaphors spring to mind.

Nice to see some 58 Pattern webbing being used by a noob - vive la diversity! If your walking boots are already worn in and comfortable, yeah go ahead, they should be ok. As has been said though, assault boots / tactical boots are intended to provide more ankle support in the kind of situations that energetic airsofters will get into. My favourites are German Para Boots, Grade 1 surplus (so they are worn in but not so much that your feet have to conform to the shape of somebody else's) / at the moment you should expect to pay about £40 for a pair, certainly no more than £50 posted. You do not need to buy a size larger to allow for thick socks, they are already slightly bigger than shoes/trainers of the same size. Of course they are sized in Euro measurements so you can get a slightly better fit than boots made to British sizes. On the issue of authenticity in your loadout, serving British soldiers in the 80's often bought surplus German Para Boots after they had passed out because they are more comfortable than British Assault Boots - the MK5 GPB is obviously newer and has design improvements over those available in the 80's, but the external look is very similar. As has also been said, you are best off trying boots on before you buy, but if you measure your feet with a ruler/tape measure and look up a size conversion chart online, you'll probably be ok. Shooting glasses are not really suitable for airsoft as the gaps around the edges can allow BB's to ricochet off your gun/equipment and/or stuff around you, which then approach your eyes from below/slightly behind you, pass through the gap, bounce off the interior of the lens and hit you in the eye - this is not speculation, IT HAS HAPPENED. If you find that your full face mask is not comfortable, or the inability to get things like drinks/sweets/gum into your mouth without disturbing your eyepro becomes too annoying, you should always make sure that any goggles you choose seal against your face all around your eyes. I would also recommend separate goggles and lower face mesh mask to protect your teeth. As far as I am aware no sites require under 18's to wear a full face mask, rather they require u18's to have their entire face protected, so a separate lower mask under goggles is fine. Bear in mind that you can always modify any lower face mask, bend it, fold it, cut parts off it, and/or add pads to the inside to make them more comfortable and to make them work with a particular set of goggles. For eg this is what i do to mine: ...the bit of velcro loops in the middle prevents the mesh rubbing the tip of my large-ish nose.

airsoftpro.cz = good quality gear at good prices and fairly quick delivery, with no tax as it's inside the EU. Bullseye Country Sport for good quality gear posted quick at reasonable prices. In the Guides forum.