Sewdhull

Thanks, I'm not after high rates of fire, but do like snappy semi. With the right gears and motor etc I can get decent semi but it seems like I may have to get a posh etu. I did wonder if id really notice given that were talking milliseconds...

Does precocking give fastest trigger response, can you get close without? Is it noticeable in a game?

Shims need to be hard, aluminium and copper are too soft for our purposes. Stainless or some other steel will work. Shims need only flat and hard, i put the various sizes on a bolt.

These types of motors tend to be less efficient with more windings, electrically speaking. Low tpa motors need more current to produce the same power and will have more losses and get hotter. Lower currents are better if you can match a motor with gearing to get what you are after.

I'm not sure how a heavier BB affects gearbox speed or what the mechanism would be to make that happen.

many plastics are IR transparent, including acrylics I believe. Germanium blocks visible light, but I think that was a bit of a joke...

Mylar blanket will do it

There is the jefftron leviathan also

Airsofts gotta hurt in the US

Airsoft pro has charging handles in stock

There was a time, when the 1968 Act was drafted when things were simple and the legislation was drafted accordingly. The various exemptions have muddied the water which were introduced to allow for example people to go play with airsoft stuff at the weekend. If you have an airsoft gun, lets say a BASR which fires at 4J in the UK, does it just become an air rifle ? Automatic weapons are ofcourse different, due to the definitions in the act.

Do you know if you can get transfers of the bullet markings to denote fire type?

I think that the ambiguity comes from what the rif becomes if you exceed the 1.3J or 2.5J limit. The 1.3J is a number the experts at the home office decided would not penetrate the skin and therefore not be lethal (so far as the law is concerned) So you can expect exceeding the 1.3J makes it a firearm, like an airgun, which then prevents you shooting at someone else, but not I would suggest at targets.

That's what I mean, the recoil of anything that's firing proper ammo will be way more than the recoil we will get from gas blowback, so I'm just surprised the gas blowback effect would be moderated in this gun. I guess it's tricky with the recoil generated by the slide or bolt alone without a heavy projectile being discharged.

Its very difficult for the Police to do anything other than an armed response to a report of guns in a public place. You can't say oh its just kids and and have a bobby trundle up. One day that will back fire. Mum doesn't want to see what actually happened, just complain about whatever she has heard has happened. In London there are cameras everywhere and on the Police officers, should be straightforward enough.

I made the mistake of looking at some of these falling down an internet rabbit hole and ended up hanging my nose over the gun in the title. Of course I then bought one and following are my thoughts on the gun. In case you don't know what it looks like... https://images.app.goo.gl/9mtVnfitABNswYUX6 For me it's a sexy gun, maybe the sexiest. Sexy and heavy. It weighs 3.6kg with mag, battery and sight and more than a little front heavy. It's the Blue version, so inside it should have half decent bits and clearly the air seal is ok, firing at 365 fps on a .2g BB, through its little 220mm barrel. It's happy on a 3S lipo or a 3S life. I swore to myself I would use it before taking it apart, but I didn't. It had a very clunky fire selector which bothered me greatly so I pulled off the sliding stock, which is very nice and sturdy, with a great extending action (only 1 of the 3 extended positions is useful to me, so I will mod those later) Once the body pin was out, I slid out the gearbox out and pondered the fire selector. I am used to a G36, they are V3 gearboxes and this is a V2. I don't recall working on a V2 before so of course I ploughed ahead, pulling the motor out and sliding the plastic bits off after taking the fire selector levers off ( grubscrew on the left, then pull the shaft and right selector lever through the gearbox. There's a "plastic bit" that sits in the plastic lower, through which the selector shaft passes from the right and gets sandwiched by the right selector lever. Anyhoo, the gearbox has a quick change spring, a shiny ribbed cylinder and a plastic nozzle, sans o ring. The casting is textured for some reason, it's not radiused and not shimmed properly. I noted that the plastic fire selector plate was binding leaving safe to semi on the contacts, which stuck up really high, so the copper part of the fire selector plate had a lot of work to do to get past them. I imagine it's meant to electrically disconnect the trigger as well as mechanically lock the trigger on safe, but it doesn't do the electrical isolation. I will probably rewire this given the pointless contacts. The fire selector plate and the aforementioned "plastic bit" ( a sort of cam) work together provide a crude detent, in addition to the detent in the left fire selector lever, when selecting safe, semi and auto. For safe the plastic bit has kind of beak that goes over centre on the bottom of the fire selector plate, on semi there's a nub on the plastic bit that nestles against a raised bit on the fire selector plate and on auto, the aforementioned beak engages the raised bit. To smooth all this out required: Pushing the contacts down ( they may have been incorrectly seated) so the fire selector plate would move more freely Taper the beak of the plastic bit, so it would engage safe with less force and move from safe to semi with less force. Reduce the size of the nub on the plastic bit to engage semi from safe more smoothly. Taper the top side of the beak so it would more easily engage in the auto position. There is still a detent effect putting the fire selector plate in the right place, which now works with the fire selector levers own detect, meaning it all clicks into place now. Much like my G36s. Having, as previously mentioned, sworn to not take this thing apart I now have a list of things to do. Spring change, maybe nozzle change. Shimming and consequently adjusting motor height. Filling in the 2 useless cut outs in the sliding stock so it slides to the right position. Add a MOSFET ( nothing fancy, I have a load of 3034 chips to use) Some of the MOSFETs used in the posh ETUs are really not very good. Altho the Jefftron ones are very nice. Rewire the thing in decent cable (the PVC stuff doesn't like the bends this gun seems to require and it uses lot of it, going to the back of the gun from the gearbox then to the front to the battery) Short out those weird contacts under the selector plate and get the copper off it. That's probably enough for now, please feel free to tell me where I'm going wrong or what else I might do since I am already doing this ^^^ Maybe you've noticed there are not many pics, Some tech issues prevented them appearing here. I'll add them as soon as I can.

Wouldn't you want more recoil rather than less. I know I would if I was getting anything gas blowback.

They don't seem to exist so far as I can tell, so I'd say they don't exist. Bit of a niche market for heavy red tracers.

Certainly sounds like overspin if you are getting 2 shots with one trigger pull, which is what I am thinking you are describing, instead of 2 bbs per cycle. If you rely on mechanical timing to kill the motor power, and you spin everything faster ( 3S battery ) is keeps going longer until it can compress the spring twice with one trigger pull. Even if it doesn't do it every time the stopping position can creep around until 2 shots happen. Battery is an easy change, Posh Mosfet is a bit more expensive but popular. You can try a 2S Lipo (7.4v) or a 3S Life (9.9v) The other thing that can happen is that the cut of lever can wear at the sector gear end which ends up delaying the trigger reset, resulting in the motor being energised for longer than intended. If your gun is relatively new though this isn't likely. If the gun is short stroked and teeth taken from the release end you alter the cut off timing, effectively removing the load from the gearbox, for example a tooth early, but still energising the motor (off load) which will cut off at the normal time having continued to spin the gear box. The more conservative the build the less likely battery, wear and mods will affect things, but when things are done to decrease the cycle time, that when stuff that normally doesn't matter starts to matter. But battery for sure is a good starting point. 2S to 3S battery is a 50% increase in offload speed, under load...well it depends on how much load and how much current can be supplied.

Such a pretty gun the sd6

If you didn't have overspin, I presume it's feeding twice or somesuch, before you put the MOSFET in, but you do have it afterwards and that's the only thing you have changed, that's very odd. Even if the AB is not working just adding a MOSFET shouldn't cause it on its own. Are you using the same battery as before?

heres a chinese website with half decent pics, http://www.wargamehk.com/cgf/viewthread.php?tid=191848&extra=page%3D1 It's possible that its a TVS or zener in a dual role, but it is across the battery so its use is very limited, maybe over voltage protection for AB too Looks like 308S or 30BS and the size is slightly different 19 0 something

That diode ( or variant thereof) is for reverse polarity protection in case you connect the battery the wrong way round. It will only work if you also have a fuse in the circuit and that fuse blows, no blown fuse and the diode blows , then the circuit dies of reverse polarity. If you remove it and connect things up correctly and the unit works then replace that diode, if you want protection again, with the highest current diode that fits in the space, smd or otherwise. If it doesnt work then your mosfet control circuitry is probs fried. The 1913 is an imperial case size, .19inch by .13inch, you can measure the component to verify. The equivalent is 4833 in metric

That metal disc is to spread the load from the motor height adjustment screw, in the bottom of the cage, to the bottom of the motor. Otherwise the screw could press against the motor shaft instead. Have you adjusted the motor height?

If you want to solve the full auto issue you will have to look at the cut off lever which is moved by the selector plate and sits inside the gearbox on the left hand side. You will see the lever being moved as the plate slides back and forth lifting it slightly with the two ends of the lever going to the moving part of the trigger contacts and the sector gear. https://htwarrior.com/welcome-to-the-site/resc-aeg-cut-off-lever/ This is a better explanation than I have.