Sewdhull

Relays? Omg

It's going depend on your cylinder volume what the max barrel length should be, along with BB weight. Whilst FPS matters for range you lose FPS very quickly once the BB has left the barrel. The main things are energy, which is a combination of speed and mass, and the BB spin. A heavier BB will go further than a lighter one at the same energy, but a heavier BB needs more time to pick up the energy which can only be done with more push in the barrel or more barrel to get pushed in. Aegs have a fixed cylinder volume so your spring will increase the pressure but not the volume as it gets stronger. More pressure is faster acceleration so you can run out of barell with plenty of air pressure still in the barrel. Heavier bbs need more pressure to accelerate them so they accelerate slower and spend more time in the barrel and pick up more energy by the time they leave the barrel if it's long enough. But for range it is the bbs spin that creates lift whilst moving forward and extending the range and heavier bbs slow down slower than light ones extending range still further. There isn't a lot of science in Airsoft but the Airsoft trajectory project from many years ago did some. http://mackila.com/airsoft/atp/ Since an aeg is looking at 1.14 joules here in the UK, things like air seal and hop matter more since that level of energy is easy to reach even with 300mm barrels, or shorter. FPS matters less than the joules.

Brushless are nice but they don't always play nice with etus. A std on off MOSFET is fine tho. Brushless should be torquiest motors, last much longer than a brushed motor, stay cooler and are kinder to your batteries. It's an investment 🙂

If the motor doesn't get too hot the magnets will stay good. You can buy new brushes and clean the commutator. I'm a huge fan of brushless motors but they can't be controlled like a brushed motor. Complicated (fully featured) MOSFETs, which I don't use, can be problematic with brushless motors and I can see why.

Active braking dissipates the energy in the moving parts into the motor as heat so you may notice that. If you do have a brushless motor which is nice for lots of reasons, active braking may be incompatible with with your trigger unit. For active braking to happen the motor gets shorted, which can't happen if the brushless motor has no power as it needs power to turn on the motors MOSFETs, assuming it has them in place for motor shorting.

I have a couple of g36s. The src one a g36c is light, it has a skeletal folding stock. Seems light compared to many other guns I've held. I imagine other short 36s are similar.

I've always figured that the bevel gear gets bearings and the rest get bushings. However I would have thought that good bearings could take the forces, I just don't know how good the bearing I have access to are.

Precocking is useful in semi because instead of the trigger starting the compression on the spring, it releases and already tensioned spring. Saves you some milliseconds. Downside is that your gearbox gubbins are under load all the time which will increase wear. You're likely to use more current as you are starting the motor under load to release the sector gear. Whether that matters is a matter for you. Active braking is designed to stop the gearbox quickly, so it doesn't over run and cycle or part cycle an extra shot, or I would guess stop the action so that precocking is cocked in the right place. I think the trigger response becomes moot if you're running on 11.1v as things are pretty quick already. Probably an order of magnitude better than your reaction time. 20rps is 50ms a shot, but a shot on semi probs ads 25ms to that for the motor to wind up.

It will be the voltage monitoring shutting off the gun that's the issue. Nominal cell voltage for life is 3.2v Vs 3.6 for most others. It's worth trying it with a life I think. The cutout for a lipo will be 3v. Life can go lower but the discharge curve is pretty flat. It depends how sensitive the system is to voltage sag under load.

I apologise if this is TMI but lithium batteries are clearly confusing. All lithium rechargables are lithium ion. Marketing confuses things. Cylindrical cells are called lithium ion. Pouch cells lipos. Chemistry is very similar, pouch cells have a paste, cylindricals have a liquid. Pouch cells puff, cylindricals vent and are less likely to be damaged when it happens. Storage charges are useful, but so long as the cell isn't full or empty (30% SOC either way is good) all should be well. This also applies to cylindrical cells, I can't imagine that titan think differently. This voltage is 3.7v for lithium's that aren't life cells. Storing any lithium battery empty is really bad for it's longevity and safety. Titan batteries have the same chemistry as other batteries. They are still damaged by over or under charge and high discharge currents and catch fire. Metal cells are resilient and difficult to damage. Lithium iron phosphate (life) are the only resilient and safe lithium battery, tolerant to overcharge and need to reach 270C to make fire. They hold less charge but have a very long life. I have some that are 10 next year. 3S batteries are 9.9v. If you look after lipos (pouch cells) they will last a reasonable amount of time, but they are fragile. Cylindrical cells are physically robust, won't get stuck in a gun, but other wise have the same issues as pouch cells. Other than life cells all the others suffer thermal runaway at pretty low temps so if they get hot (from 80C to 130C), they get hotter until fire. Careful charging and use can avoid the cells getting hot.

Using the springs to shoot the gun will have a small effect on the spring constant, but in Airsoft there are alot of cycles and the spring will get weaker. Airsoft cycles are quite deep and as others have said quality matters. Deeper cycles will have a greater effect than less deep ones. Leaving it compressed will have large effect by comparison due to the permanent squish on it. Potentially short stroking could extend its life, but I've always looked at springs as consumables. Whilst other springs seem to have actual manufacturing specs, Airsoft springs don't seem to have even the basic info.

Good news. Do you know why the diode failed?

My view is that bore size cannot be viewed on its own. Having said that let me view it on its own. If your bb it stabilised down the bore it won't matter how wide the bore is, it's still going straight, and being passed by air creating a force keeping the BB off the barrel walls. So you must have enough air passing the BB to keep it off the walls, the hop must impart spin without creating too much bouncing about in the bore, and the barrel must be long enough to allow the BB to stabilise in the bore and smooth enough to not disturb the air flow. Ppl who know thier stuff will have a good hop unit etc in mind, know which barrels are good quality and understand how to get enough air down the barrel. All things being otherwise equal enough air down a wider bore will work. I think so anyway

I have just joined the forum. Been airsofting on and off for 20years I guess. Dipping my toes back in with less fitness. Am resident in Cornwall so when I've finished fiddling with my guns perhaps I'll see some of you and shoot you. Or be shot...

Some of the g36 hop ups have a two part nub. My src has a single piece alloy nub but another g36 has a plastic piece that pokes into the rotary bit and a plastic cylinder that sits beneath it. I would check that, if you have a plastic hop unit that both nub pieces are installed.