Sewdhull

The selector plate has more meat on it that that one I think, it's shorter with a smaller slot in the middle, not indestructible tho. Selector levers do die tho. You'll need to pull the gearbox and have a look through the spot in the plate and see if it's all there.

I think cyma blues come usable from the box.. according to the reviews I've seen.

8mm? https://nuprol.com/v2-gearbox-casing.html

Put the mag in the fridge in a sealed bag. Or part fill it and empty the gas out. That will chill it.

Mixed gasses with differing vapour pressures evaporate unequally. Some camping gasses mix butane and propane so that the butane is squirted out with the propane, but if it used in cold conditions the butane is left behind and the propane evaporates using all the propane before the butane is exhausted. MAPP is a hotter gas than propane and not formulated for pressure reasons. The pressure you will see in your Mags is the propene pressure which is not massively more than propane. Whilst the outside temp might be 15C you will see alot of cooling even after the first shot if you have gas supply, over supply, issues. I have an AAP and it cycles just fine at 15C on green gas.

Thanks leo. I guess I should have a fiddle now I have a starting point. Im not seeking a high ROF and probably wont use an ETU. I was considering using PWM to moderate the heat , but perhaps that's not needed.

Dielectric grease cant stop contact arcing, just corrosion over time leading to high contact resistance, the heat then generated at the contacts and carbon build up, which can extend their life. A contact lube is a good thing for airsoft type contacts which slide against each other in any case. It wont stop damage because of the arcing either. Airsoft contacts are electrically awful. It wont help much with our inductive (motor) loads tho. Diodes, capacitors and resistors can effectively eliminate the arcing if used correctly. Mosfets, or a relay, just put less energy through the trigger contacts so they last lots longer and we still have to protect the mosfet from the inductive load.

Propane should be giving you 7 bar, around 90 psi at 15C, MAPP might give you another 20 psi as its only 50% propene. Each shot will reduce that percentage until there's no propene left, just propane and the other 'p' gas. Pressure will reduce as the mag is used. Propane should be enough at 7 bar...

I presume the stocks are hollow and you could part fill it ( where there was no internals) with something, p40 maybe.

Initially it was fitting 18650 cells in spaces, 3 cells too long and a lopsided nunchuck the alternative. But if a lopsided nunchuck fits so would a 2+2 nunchuck. If I built a 3 cell pack it might as well be 4. It seems to me that trigger response is more a feeling than something tangible, given the short time a cycle takes anyway. Faster is better but if it was crucial we'd all be precocking to save 50ms. Esp if your already running at 3S. Anyhoo, I wondered if there was a motor happy to run at that voltage, perhaps in combination with the right gears. I do have a gun I considered dmring but Ive never really felt, other than the additional challenge, it was worth doing. Maybe over winter try it, for lulz. Or maybe try pwm on my MOSFET. I need to play more...

This is the first move, things are very different on 11.1 from 7.4. You'd want a mosfet with it really. A simple one would do.

Does anyone have any experience using 14.8v (4S) batteries. I can see there being current draw issues but I can alter the motor duty cycle to mitigate that somewhat. Perhaps someone has already fiddled around with this? Maybe with the right motor (higher impedance) it's a thing...

My src g36c has a high torque motor and that runs with a home made MOSFET. On 11v lipo I don't have feeding issues, but I do prefer a 9.9v life.

The pic is correct , the comment is wrong . The numbers are compressed length plus the piston or cylinder, so a weaker spring has a shorter compressed length. Preload may be an issue testing this way as the spring starts unloaded. But it works for thier purposes.

I have found that pairing is useful but it's tricky to find ppl that have similar playstyle casually. However if you shout up, there's always someone that wants to have a buddy and whether they want to lead or be led doesn't matter to me. You soon find out where there strengths lie and how to progress from there. The more organised sites do better but it's been a while for me so I don't know what it's like now

This might be interesting https://www.airsoftguns-europe.com/how-to-correctly-measure-the-real-stiffness-of-airsoft-springs This puts the spring constant for a 100 at 550 N/m.

Biodegradable bbs break down over a few years kicking about, in the warm it's quicker or in the sun. I was under the impression PLA was biodegradable.

I would love someone to actually measure Airsoft springs to see what thier spring constant is. It's all horribly arbitrary at the moment.

I think it would be worth going from .85J to 1.14J The extra energy will allow you to get your FPS to 350 on .2, or go heavier .3 perhaps at a lower FPS. Since the American models and the pdw do it already I wouldn't imagine there's a downside.

Big drops in FPS like that is likely to be an air leak. Too much hop can be the bucking or perhaps the nub is catching or the wheel faulty. I guess you could get a big drop in FPS with excessive projection into the barrel but why that would happen I am unsure.

Does everything seal correctly and does the bucking project into the chamber correctly?

Problems with MOSFETs are pretty much issues with not switching them on properly or a poor circuit if it's not a simple switch. Also user error, which has been how I've ruined stuff on drones and planes. For example the 3034 MOSFETs are not fully on with 7.4v, increasing its power dissipation and cooking it. You want 10v really, but it varies between devices. Since I've never seen an Airsoft gun with a heatsink the heat dissipation is terrible. Also the units tend to parallel the MOSFETs creating other issues and the insides of a gearbox is a poor environment for a circuit board. I'd like to see the sensors inside the gearbox and the rest outside. I rambled, sorry

Speed out of the barrel drops of very quickly, and gravity only gives you a fixed amount of time before the BB hits the ground. It's your hop that gives you the range by countering gravity with backspin. Drag on the BB is not linear with speed, if you double the speed, drag quadruples. Extend the time the spin lasts, with with more spin to start or a heavier BB to retain that spin longer and you will get more range. This why a heavier BB will get you more range, more time spinning and a reduced speed loss as the heavier BB needs more drag to slow it compared to a lighter BB. Also it's worth noting the Magnus effect, the result of the backspin, doesn't start until it goes forward through the air (leaves the barrel) and reduces according to the ratio of forward speed and spin until it goes negative, pushing the BB into the ground. I can't recall the ratio, it's been a while since I looked at the sums.

You could look at a MOSFET as a very low resistance relay with an unlimited life. A relay is swapping one set of contacts for another, but it would work ofcourse, great for isolating one circuit from another however.

I have been told the same, but I'm not sure it's true.