Sewdhull

Motors don't work in C, it's dimensionless, they work in Amps and that would be a much better way. Like quoting TPA for example instead of RPM. And quote motor torque not high low etc. All this sort of thing muddies the water if you want to compare things. Most of Titans blurb is meaningless, some is just wrong. Even the bits that are in fact true are also true comparing lipos.

Sounds like they aren't the same dimension to the mag catch. You'll probs have to pack it out but you should take measurements with calipers really

I think if they used better cells you'd see better results. High capacity doesn't automatically transfer to good current capabilities

Titan have very misleading information about thier batteries and are expensive. Thier C ratings are all over the place. They claim 48A or 16C from 2 cell packs and also parallel cells to make high capacity packs and still only claim 16C. The very best 18650s will give you 35A. Nice to have that sort of capacity to draw on tho.

Measure from the top of the feed lips to the bottom of the cutout which engages with the mag release. If it's different you'll need to shim the cutout with something. jB weld or somesuch. Otherwise it's probably feed lips

Here is one of the best cells around. It has a high discharge ability and low IR and therefore low losses. Probs 3% https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.molicel.com/wp-content/uploads/INR21700P42A-V4-80092.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiiz-jrztKCAxVFT0EAHU7-C9IQFnoECBQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw0LQw5T1Ox5wcEGxkfy-Cls Sadly too large for most Airsoft use where the width makes it hard to fit anywhere. This cell with a higher IR has more loss, but again these are really good cells, same size as the Titans physically. Probs 4% loss here. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.molicel.com/wp-content/uploads/DM_INR18650A-V4-80078.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjx7aSH0NKCAxVYgP0HHbKzBTwQFnoECBMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw17W4w_UcgiPWscdq5s9FWU Once you get to mediocre cells the losses ramp up and the capacity difference becomes more pronounced. The other thing to bear in mind is that the cell temperatures are high at the end of some of the discharge curves which will extend the curve, which you will not see in normal use. Here's a mediocre cell, for us any way. 20% loss https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.overlander.co.uk/pub/media/datasheets/2600mAh_Li-Ion_Cell_Specification.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjygaLj1NKCAxVQQEEAHfs8ARQQFnoECDQQAQ&usg=AOvVaw3807Y43t7mbC3QqqU1wsCT

There is no charge below a certain voltage because of the chemistry. You can see the voltage drops at the end because of this at all discharge rates. Lithium and most other chemistries exhibit this behaviour and even when some charge is left damage occurs to the cell even if it is left unused. It's not like a water bucket emptying to nothing that you can refill, more like a fire which burns to embers that you can restore. Let the fire burn too low and it goes out, even tho there's stuff in the fire still.

My gas bottles sit empty....well until recently

Go for the one Colin recommended or the b6. The extra is worth it. You may need a charging lead in addition. My b6 doesn't have a deans connection. Or the overlander, which looks like a b6

Leaving a cell fully charged creates chemical stresses that may harm the battery/affect it's performance etc. Good practice is charge to storage level after use and then fully charge soon before you expect to use it. You should expect 500 cycles, more if you treat of use the battery well. The b6 battery chargers are great but they cost about 40GBP. They have IR measurements too so you can see when cells are dying.

There's no panic, you can discharge the battery into a car headlamp bulb if you have some wires. 10 minutes should suffice. So long as it's not full or empty all will be well. As Dan says 3.8v per cell is a good target for storage.

Do you have means to measure it's voltage? Is it lithium

I can't help but do things like this. I can't imagine it makes any difference in the great scheme but I like to do it

I dunno how to alter the title, it's going to bother me, apologies.

I've had a play with my trigger this morning to reduce the travel. There's alot of the travel that does nothing. I've made it adjustable so if problems occur I can deal with it. To reduce the travel you need alter the depth of the contact surface on the main safety to allow the trigger to move to it's new position. Then I added a screw to adjust the distance so the safety still works. The screw on the right is making a thread for another screw in the same place to adjust the trigger position. Then I reduced the length of the trigger safety after noting the trigger position required before the gun fires. Lastly I put a screw in the trigger above the trigger bar to space the trigger bar back. This was a bit of trial and error, the screw needs to be large enough to catch on the groove in the trigger but have a small enough head not to foul the slide release. That screw was too wide of head so I used a different one, which I failed to photograph. Early tests are positive, with safety still operating normally and the trigger moved back to a better position to fit a gloved finger in better and shorter trigger throw as seen in pic 2. It's adjustable so I can sort out and issues.

The voltage drop you are seeing is a function of the internal resistance of the cell. Free flow of the charge is restricted by chemistry and essentially the surface area of and distance between the internal electrodes. A cell is a rolled up sandwich of the two electrodes and the electrolyte between them. It is similar but not identical (because batteries are chemical) to the voltage dropping across wires and contacts and MOSFETs in the circuit under load.

You cant extrapolate to zero, only to the useful voltage for your application. At just 4C you've lost 10% of your capacity. In Airsoft 3v is probably the lower useful voltage as your motor will slow down. Running a power bank for example, the electronics will produce the required voltage as long as the battery can supply current, well to a point. Running a lithium battery to low voltages will damage it long term too. There are losses in discharging a battery, those losses increase with current based on the IR of the battery. Capacity is quoted at specific discharge rates because of this. Perhaps not in Airsoft however, but at a cell level you need this information to make a pack for whatever your application is.

The issue for capacity is what current you discharge at and what voltage you stop at. Ofcourse there is blatant mislabeling, but you will get more mAh at lower currents and cells will empty at different rates, the poorer cell dictating when the battery dies. The actual numbers matter less than if the battery suits your needs.

C ratings for the packs we use are unreliable. I'm sure it has a place for scientists and engineers etc. When I make batteries it's useful info from a manufacturer, altho they quote current and IR too. Mass produced batteries from unknown sources are hard to stomach C wise. The Nanotech batteries have been good tho, altho I've not bought any for a while. Airsoft currents are quite low but often we have use small thin batteries which isn't ideal, because of where they have go. Anyhoo few batteries will be rubbish, most will be fine.

Capacity drops alot then you draw different loads. At 1A for example you may get the rated capacity but at 10A you will get less. If C rating was some sort of standard it would be more useful. C X the mAh gives you Amps not Ah. It's not a real thing tho as the C is made up.

I thought I would share what I've learned about batteries, lithium ones in particular. Regardless of the type of lithium cells we are using there are a few parameters that make your battery better or worse. Voltage is just the cells voltage added together. This varies with increasing load, downwards. The capacity (which should be taken with a pinch of salt) is what it says , how much charge the cells can give you once charged. This varies with increasing load, downwards. The C rating, something a manufacturer puts on, hopefully a sensible number reflecting the cells ability to supply current. Remember it's current that makes your motor spin and voltage that decides how fast it will go. You cells have an internal resistance that matters because this is predominantly why a good cell will give high currents with lower loses, and a cooler cell. You do not want your battery to be the limiting factor, it will not like it. Your battery pack of however many cells should you short it will provide many hundreds of amps, even the smaller lipos, esp those with a high C. Put a fuse (size it for your max motor current plus 10A) in to protect your wiring by all means, but what you really want is the battery disconnecting asap. Your connectors will desolder in a few seconds and you don't want that incase the wires reconnect and then you have something incendiary. The reason that Voltage reduces with increasing load is the cells own internal resistance, it's a combination of chemistry and other resistance in the cell. As you draw more current the output voltage drops because of the IR and heat is produced. These losses are not linear. Eg at 10A the loss may be 1W but at 20A it would be 4W. At 40A it's 16W. A poor battery will have more losses, get hot, puff up, catch fire . A reason to use high torque motors you can get more power out of them or give the battery an easier life. It's the same for the wires and the MOSFET. Oh and your connectors too, altho your wiring and connectors should be fine if you've moved on from tamiya. The last thing I'll say about batteries for the time being is Thier mechanical robustness. The pouch cells, non round ones can be easily punctured (the pouch containing the chemistry is thin plastic, wrapped in more thin plastic then covered in the brands thin plastic) which makes them useless once penetrated. The round ones have good mechanical robustness but usually scary chemistry. Look after the pouch cells, don't throw them around like people do. Your round ones, usually lion, are in a metal can so can take more abuse. Get a good charger, the cloned B8 I think it is works well and has cell IR measurements as a health guide.

Yeah, get the largest capacity lipo, lion or life that will fit. The c ratings would be useful if they were not arbitrarily decided on or innacurate. Good chargers can measure the internal resistance which is a good measure of a quality battery, lower is better, it can also show cell imbalance in IR which is the sign your pack needs replacing. I know deans is popular but xt60 is a better connector. For many guns xt30 is sufficient. Better c rating is better ofcourse... I have got batteries from Amazon and patrolbase, they are all satisfactory

To me they look laser etched, which is probably done in batches

I'm keen on your springs for my future things once I use those I have. Even keener on brushless motors, if you ever do some comparisons I'd love it.

Begadi etch or engrave the ground end of the spring. Maybe add a plastic ring, similar to those birds have on Thier legs. On shims...making them slightly different shapes for each thickness perhaps, tooling my be prohibitive there. Honestly tho, I have calipers so if I really want to know the thickness I could measure them. When shim tho, generally I'm not measuring the play, it's more trial and error and there's not really any reason to use one .3 over 3 .1s