Davegolf

Welcome! Dont 100% quote me on this, I’m sure other MK18 owners will be able to confirm/deny as I have not had one in my hands yet... Theoretically you could replace the barrel nut and whole rail system with any other MWS compatible aftermarket rail. But you have already got it so i would just buy the proper tool, and maybe get the rail Cerakote’d in Midnight Bronze 😉

Prommy purple was for AEGs. The TM MWS original bucking https://eagle6.co.uk/shop/catalog/product/view/id/2612/s/tokyo-marui-m4a1-mws-hop-unit-hop-rubber-for-m4-gbbr-series/

Hi! Yes as of this time, I have not come across a holistically good bucking that can outperform AND outlast the original TM bucking. You’re right on there, in a GBB your dealing with expanding volumes, temperature and pressure changes. In an AEG, as long as that motor pulls your stored energy (spring) back you’re getting a repeatable output.

Yes power tuning is all in the floating valve for the most part, the rest is efficiency/air tightness

Is the piston seal lubed or dryed out?

480mm

Interesting, I just chrono’d a customer CQBR, 250mm 6.03, Modify tan, Super Nub, HSB, stock valve, otherwise stock, freshly serviced 😉 With Abbey Vertex @ similar temperature; 360 FPS

@RMDavis Old Skool Kool

Pretty much all Angry Gun parts only succeed at making people angry about their guns 🤐

Still a retarded design by TM

TM NGRS gear specifically are made of cheese, you’ll end up with a round last sector tooth before long with an M95

Yeh I mean the longbow sleeve is essentially 1 normal guide ring and 1 looong guide ring. Ultimately to stabilise something you need 2 contact points over a distance, the sleeve is just adding friction surely. If a cylinder and 2 rings are properly sized you won’t have any play. The other issue with airsoft BASRs is that when cocking the bolt we are pulling a big ass spring, whereas a real rifle is just loading a round and cocking the trigger/sear. If you pull close to the centreline there is a lot less side loading. Yes compared to even TMs I’m really impressed with the quality, yes they put some cheap parts in, but they are easily replaced parts which is the right way to make a decent gun and sell it cheaply, impressed!

Got the remaining plastics of the T10 stock painted up, colours are; Humbrol AD6029 - dark earth Humbrol AD6080 - grass green Krylon woodland light green Krylon camo brown Riolett 2K RAL8000 Most of the metal parts are being Cerakoted in the swatch above - Patriot Brown. The outer barrel / upper receiver is going Midnight Bronze.

Cheers Skara, yes i did see your T11 unfuck thread, i think the hop unit looks good on the outset. Want to see what i can achieve without going TDC mod or CNC hop unit, i like the vernier ratchet it has. Not keen on the TDC turret you end up with on your barrel Being as this is a secondary build and keeping weight down is key, i started looking for a half decent short dot, long and short of it i came across this Visionking scope, ATRG did a good review on it - but his pictures do not do the scope justice, for the money the optics are extremely clear, the only downside is the 2nd focal plane thing, but hey this is airsoft https://atrg.blog/2018/06/29/accessory-review-visionking-1-25-5-x-26-short-dot/ Gave it some RAL8000 treatment for good measure

Yes TechT on all your magazine O rings, and the piston lid seal. Gun oil on trigger set, and BCG to receiver PS you can generally wipe down the externals and clean all non rubber/silicone parts with the gun oil too. It serves as a cleaning agent, anti corrosion and lube all in one.

Genuine armourer wrench, not some cheesium one. Spare nozzle Spare nozzle return springs TechT GunSav Parker gun oil Mini screwdriver and pick set Long Allen keys upto 5mm (non of that ball hex crap )

Regardless of the temperature for efficiency and consistency you want to be using the smallest amount of gas possible to propel the BB at your desired FPS and reliably cycle the system ready for the next shot. What does this come down to? Air seals, Friction and Weight of dynamic parts, Work effort and Stability of materials in different temperatures. Air seals; Gas tight mag obv. Healthy gas route seal in mag. Mating fully with nozzle entry. Nozzle fully sealed in bucking. Air tight bucking. Floating valve closing fast and sealing. Piston lid seal that reacts fast, but doesn’t drag. BCG turning off the gas knocker, properly in time - not too early or late. Friction - freely moving, minimal contact, not side loading; Floating valve. Nozzle. Bolt. Buffer. Buffer spring. Weight of dynamic parts; Lightest nozzle, bolt, buffer. Work effort; A bucking that is too tight will hold the nozzle firmly requiring more effort to pull it out. A nozzle that isn’t free in the bolt or BBU will do the same. A piston lid seal that is too big or binding will also increase effort. A bolt that is poorly made will side load the receiver or buffer tube @Wild Weasel. Increased weight of dynamic parts. Stronger buffer springs. Materials like nylon etc have massive dimensional changes for small temperature changes, materials like these are best avoided. As a general rule all parts ‘flowing’ gas should be of high quality plastics to maintain the intended dimensions and best resist the effects of icing. Pretty much everything above could be broken down further. The short fix is the stock TM design is very good. Non of the buffer parts need to be ‘upgraded’, the buffer is very light in TM plastic, and the spring is suitable for all UK assault FPS (300-350). Yes fit a lightweight CNC bolt, the UAC ones are a nice fit. The stock nozzle and piston lid seal are fine, as is the stock bucking (within reason). Yes fit an NPAS or similar, plastic please, mod the TM one ideally. PS sorry you didn’t get around to actually doing your testing!

Morning @Wild Weasel! Sounds good, getting out and playing!

Upgrade parts wise from AirsoftWorld and Skirmshop i got; AAC 90 degree steel trigger set - for strong spring longevity. £128.00 with the piston below, so easily the most expensive part. AAC aluminium piston - for strong spring longevity. AAC stainless spring guide - for strong spring longevity. £20.00 AAC delrin cylinder guide rings - for better cylinder fit, cocking action, nozzle alignment. £6 best budget upgrade Panthera hop arm - for better fit and shot consistency. £14.40 Panthera concave nub set - matches above hop arm for nub fitment, accuracy. £16.50 Panthera barrel spacers - for barrel stabilisation, accuracy. £18.00 pair Rapax 2+ and Rapax 3+ spring - these are linear type. £16.50 each Flamingo 60D bucking - for accuracy i hope... £6.00 The bucking has got some mixed reports online, but thought id try it out as it was convenient to buy and ive never gotten on with Maple Leaf products personally. Looking at the bucking it looks like it should be good, it is very well formed without any moulding defects, and a nice 'Rhop' contact patch - again time will tell. If you want to run higher power springs in the T10 its worth noting that you can only use 10mm springs with the standard piston and spring guide. The Rapax springs are 13mm so you will need an upgrade piston to match. Im going to run the stock hop unit, with the Panthera hop arm, nub and Flamingo to begin with, see what kind of airseal and shot results i can achieve. Amongst the general aesthetic tartyness going on with Cerakoting i was also intrigued to see just how nice i could get the standard cylinder to perform, so the cylinder is being externally coated in Cerakote C-109 'micro-slick'. I will also polish the inside when i get it back to clean off the usual run-in gunk you get left on your piston and contaminating your grease. So all in spent same on the upgrades as the T10 itself, but you could save nearly half that if you didnt pimp out on the steel trigger and just run the stock one till it fails 👍 Im hoping for the money though, with some hop unit loving, it will perform as good as an SSG24 for the same money - what you think? I can see at this point people thinking that the SSG24 now looks like good value, as did i when running the numbers, but it would be bigger than i wanted - so i would have to buy another inner and outer barrel, the hop unit is debatable(?), im not sold on 6.01s, and not visually what i wanted either - thoughts?

So got the basic T10-s from AirsoftWorld along with a couple of convenient parts whilst shopping there... Havent actually got a pic of it out-the-box as i was super keen to tie in with my Cerakoter's diary 🙃 So had a quick play with it, definitely solidly built and quality materials thoughout, surprisingly light considering the amount of metal work and the extensive fixings and fasteners, well happy with that as it will spend a lot of time on my back... or will it Stripped it down and had a general inspection, a lot just as expected from the reviews; VSR hop unit - nice fine adjustment, sloppy hop arm, split halves design (maybe air seal probs, time will tell) 90 degree trigger set - mostly pot metal but good action Plastic piston - does the job i suppose Plastic spring guide - fine for weaker springs Plastic sloppy guide rings - not nice Nice cylinder - steel with nice finish Nice cylinder head - hi flow type and 'O' ringed Brass 300mm barrel - time will tell

Hi @Panama your wifes a keeper by the sounds of it, most people go to great lengths to hide the flow of airsoft expenditure though the house Yeh after many a review on the T10 it all looked to be very good value for money - sturdy stock/chassis with actual nuts and bolts not screws into cheese, easier to strip out the workings than a VSR, decent trigger set (even if FPS limited for longevity), decent cylinder, hop unit as a base, mag storage, BB feeding, long a short options. What mods have you done to yours, and have you been able to do any distanced testing? Nice that you have learnt from it and enjoyed the process, i do enjoy the whole research/building/testing process nearly as much as skirmishing!

So got myself a little T10-s BASR by Action Army after a lot of historical forum reading and general reviews. This is my first personal sniper, have helped friend in the past with theirs but never sniped myself, initially ive sold it to myself on the basis it will be a lightweight secondary for taking out tricky opposition to keep me moving onto objectives I will put my hands up and say i did have a good hard look at the Nov' rifles, i did think they look pretty good but there is so much patchy info and obv neg feedback on what im sure is a pretty good product. That said there was just too many grey areas when it came to what you actually got in the rifle, i mean the SSG24 looks to be the best kitted, but also weighty - then theres reports of the hop units not actually being that usable due to coarse adjustment etc. The SSG10 looks good on the outset but then you find it gets low spec hop unit, cheaper trigger set (although good Bull unit) etc etc,. The M40 variant looks good visually but is just that, same as above SSG10 but with very expensive bodykit. They also are all long barrels, no G-spec stylee option off the shelf so thats extra cost in inner and outer barrel right away. Ultimately my take away from my research was they are a good rifle for those who dont want to tech, but it all comes down to money at the end of the day, its a business where you are paying for the name, more than its sum total worth?? Having seen the venerable TM VSRs being used to great affect, through extensive use stocks, fixing threads etc fatiguing or generally cheesing out, i wanted something with a sturdier construction but VSR compatibility. Fully aware all BASRs need upgrading to be competitive in the field i added up the cost of many builds using CYMA's JG's TM's and all sorts but the Action Army T10 came up trumps, and the fresh modern look is definitely attractive! I must admit im a sucker like many for external mods that do jack for performance, i like em pretty lol! So im aiming this thread at copying some inspiration real steel JAE 700 builds and what ive used to achieve the finish, but also trying to get max performance without blowing the bank. I will post results with said mods, and if something doesnt work then so be it, looking forward to seeing how this goes So heres my eye candy inspiration...

I take it you meant *without the O rings. All TMs run vented input valves. Do not use O rings, as described above it allows useless air and non liquid Co2 to exit the mag and allow consistently even refills. The function of the tube attached to the full valve (which people remove or shorten to ‘green gas mod’) essentially is a fill level device. The extra space left by that tube is there to allow the liquid Co2 to expand into the gas which you fire with. If you make that space smaller (by doing the green gas mod) yes you fit more liquid Co2 in, but at the expenses of shot FPS consistency. Consistency is everything.

Covid or Christmas?

My very first personal sniper rifle Upgrades inbound! Going for a lightweight secondary build - excited!