Pseudotectonic

yeah when you centralise the motor tower and insert the motor to the right depth ("motor height") you will have the reference for how high the bevel gear should be shimmed at i suppose this is a simplified half-shell method, you don't install the motor grip but just shim the motor tower until it sits more or less centralised to the gearbox shell motor hole (or half of it)

Or wrap some tape around the motor tower? (Or brass tube it) which you will want to do anyway? The alignment does not really matter at this stage because the grip will align it afterwards, you just need to worry about the height for the shimming (as in how deep the motor is going into the gearbox when it is more or less centered in the hole) Once you are centered in the hole, the bottom of the motor will sit at the bottom of the grip, and these two points should automatically align the motor correctly

you can figure out the ball park height of the bevel gear by just inserting the motor without the grip, and as long as the motor tower is centralised and perpendicular to the hole and has just about right wiggle room when it is engaged with bevel at the depth you want, then it should be in the right ball park, and then afterwards use sound to do the final adjustments or use another spare m4 grip to shim it, and then use sound with the final grip

nah don't wanna take the risk of getting water trapped inside the motor tower, plus I get to monitor the brushes while it runs so to get an idea how much time it takes for new brushes to seat with the commutator

I'm scared of water ruining the grease inside the bearings so i avoided that method altogether

you should be able to insert the loader directly into the mag (no need to hold it at an angle) the flappy thing where the BB comes out is an adapter for pistol mags for normal AR mags remove the flappy thing and just insert the port directly into the mag, it should be snug enough it shouldn't come apart easily

ok my bad, didn't read I heard this type with the bigger push button is better

is that blanking block inserted the wrong way? maybe there is a cut out on the other side meant to be on this side

At any given FPS, the BB can be either hopped or no hopped the hopped BB will travel a bit further, if that is what OP is asking

Odin clones

@EDcase just an observation, that solder joint in the picture is a cold joint and might break or overheat (due to poor conductivity) And yes you can charge an AEP 7.2 V battery, just charge it with NiMH settings (or whatever chemistry it is)

I built an XL4015 for breaking in a new motor, cost me £4.60 (plus wiring etc) and you can change the voltage to whatever you want with the display, plug a battery in and it will run a good while at 1.5 V, above this voltage the motor gets too warm and warm is no good for the magnets Good for seating new carbon brushes and cleaning the commutator with a qtip and a drop of brake cleaner The carbon brushes are more durable than I thought tho, you can spend days running without fully seated the new brushes

PS I think the air seal issues you are talking about are mainly coming from the misalignments of the axis and all the wobbles and misalignments axially between inner barrel vs outer barrel vs upper receiver vs gearbox nozzle. I think the horizontal movement is by design and not a major cause of air seal issues. I don't know exactly how much extra mm the nozzle goes beyond the hop rubber sealing lip, but I suspect it should have enough mm to cater for this 2 mm movement by design. It would be all the tilting that makes the nozzle not coaxial and perpendicular with the hop rubber lip causing air seal issues. If it is aligned and coaxial, it shouldn't matter whether the nozzle is inserted by 3 mm or 1 mm, but I am just theorising here.

@Rogerborg I got a Specna Edge as well and after tinkering a bit I discovered a few things: The inner barrel assembly is free floating inside the outer barrel and can move freely horizontally in the axial direction. The hop unit is spring loaded on the outer barrel, which pushes it against the gearbox. But when everything is assembled, there is a whole 2 mm of clearance for forward movement, obviously by design for self-locating into magazines. The hop unit feeding tube is chamfered for this purpose (or made more chamfered to improve magazine locating, as you have done). The inner barrel has surprising amount of wobble inside the outer barrel because it is just free floating inside. All these wobble up and down and side to side, and tilting in any direction, is detrimental for self-location into magazines because when the magazine comes in, there is too much room for error and the hop unit can be outside the correct zone for self-location. The inner barrel can be shimmed or "stablised" for better accuracy, but this needs to be allowed to move horizontally without friction for the self-location to work. Similarly the outer barrel can be shimmed on the inside diameter of the upper receiver hole (as opposed to using barrel nut shims to try to hold the barrel in place by sheer friction), to centralise the axis. Besides accuracy, this has added benefit to tightening the guiding slots for the hop unit so there is less chance for the hop unit to rotate axially which again throws off the location of the feeding tube into the magazine. You can test the forward movement of the hop unit by pushing it forward with fingers through the magwell.

The hop unit should actually be moving forward or backward slightly to locate itself to insert into the feeding port of the mag Maybe your hop unit is slightly deformed so it is not sliding smoothly, or not inserting itself smoothly into the mag Can you turn the gun upside down and take a picture of the mag well with strong lighting?

They all seem to made of steel wires body Are there any that is completely plastic?

I'm surprised m120 can do the Orion in, could the new cylinder is a bit bigger than original and it is tight on the shell? Or the cylinder head? Or combination of both?

below .35 ---> maple leaf macaron (or super macaron) + omega nub or similar above .35 ---> maple leaf MR hop + omega nub or similar

For brass instruments like trumpet or trombone they have these "snake brush" which is some nylon brush at the end of a flexible spring (plastic coated to prevent scratching) If we make something similar for airsoft with a small brush (wholly plastic like a toothbrush) tied to a paracord or something non-metal, it will work similarly or like a real steel bore snake Key thing is everything has to be plastic because it has to be softer than aluminium and brass to prevent scratching Toothbrush exists so the technology is there, just a matter of making it sized correctly to go through 6 mm tubes Bonus feature: make it clip onto its own tail and make a loop, and then it can be powered by you full autoing the gun for automatic cleaning

Plastic is a polymer, m'kay?

Can you upload the form?

oh it could be the hop, if you increased the hop, the FPS will drop, because more force is being applied to spinning the BB if you touched the hop any amount at all, it can affect the FPS a little bit it cannot be battery, battery does not really affect FPS

maybe fire a few more shots to clean out the lint/dirt that got pushed

Btw the inner barrel can be stabilised (centered) to the outer barrel if you wrap some tape around it which helps to reduce the barrel rattling and reduce any vibration from travelling along the brass I do it at two points, one towards the front tip and one towards the back near the hop unit, with only two points you won't be applying bending force to the inner barrel if there is any knocks or bending of the outer barrel, because you need a third point to bend a straight object

Take this as example, from this view (and the receiver opening) if you turn the dial down, it means up, the hop rubber will come down, and the BB will go up (seriously just turn counter-clockwise to reduce hop, which is what you are trying to do in your situation)