Pseudotectonic

how much BB can you get from selling a PS5?

What is wrong with Specna gearboxes? From the story it seems the store owner proposed "swapping gearbox" because of Aster incompatibility with the Ares gearbox. What exactly was said or written is unknown but OP appears to think it is a Specna gearbox. And it is a little hard to believe a shop would not offer tech services, it may very well be a one off job by the owner. Without more evidence from either side (pictures or otherwise) it is next to impossible to determine what exactly happened. While OP should have gone back to the shop in the first place, I don't think he is entirely lying about the "discoveries" and it may very well have been the shop owner had a go with a one-off job.

Can you post some pictures

The ideal is the two sides bending 180 degree back into the wire But with needle nose pliers an overlap is probably more practical (unless you have the perfect crimping tool it will be impossible to achieve the correct 180 bend) And arguably airsoft is not very critical application, so as long as it is secure enough, it is secure enough Nah multi-strand is not the problem. Don't tin it, it is going to be worse because tin cannot deform like copper and it will actually make it worse Also note there are two pairs of "legs", one is for the wire jacket which is just for the mechanical stress relief, and another pair for the actual copper wires and this is for doing the actual work of conducting electricity

Ignoring the time gap, what exact is your complaint? Tech work quality? Tech work advice? It seems there are four elements to your complaint: Tech workmanship related: "Non-airsoft" Gate Aster was installed Wiring with "metric ton" of superglue Nuprol motor "too strong" Advice related Being mislead into agreeing the work Can you provide pictures of the Gate Aster or anything that says it is "non-airsoft"? Can you provide pictures of the amount of superglue in your gearbox or where you think is the problem? Can you provide model name of this Nuprol motor and also your spring, gear ratio, and battery used? Can you describe what was the process of you agreeing to the work?

I agree safe zone is not the best place to do tech beyond any emergency or temporary fixes That said, a basic kit might be a screw driver or two, some common size allen keys, some duct tape or electrical tape should be enough for the odd tightening job or patching things temporarily, and silicone oil

Did they force you to pay for the repairs? Or did they just try to sell you things you don't need

I actually have that same style of crimping tool but it doesn't have an exact crimp for 2.8 mm for some reason and I ended up having to use needle nose pliers to do a better job, in principle you just need to make sure you apply enough crimping force to make it secure but not a deadly amount of crimping because you need to retain the diameter for conductivity

Yes exactly, radial and axial forces please (some vector arrows will do) Although I imagine in reality it is in all directions because of vibrations and airsoft physics and whatnot

It's a cosmetic part I know but it is just rattling around literally held in place by the upper and lower receiver What is the most solid way of fixing it in place so it doesn't rattle around?

2.8 mm

It seems your forces are going "one way" from the motor, what about the spring load coming back, does it apply any load on the bevel gear and does it modify the radial load directions? For sake of my understanding do you mind drawing some arrows on this diagram?

How did you calculate the 3N on the other side? And the 2N axial force?

For UK sites you can generally go just under 350 fps with 0.2s (1.14 joules), so if you try to reach 330 fps (1 joule) it should be good with some safe margin for variance, so the m100 spring should normally be ok For .25 to up to .35s I would suggest the maple leaf super macaron hop, since you are using 0.25 which is on the lighter end of the spectrum a 50 or 60 degree rubber would be good, and also get the maple leaf omega nub so the hop is applied correctly And see if you are happy with the results, if not you can think about the barrel but I don't think it is as critical as the hob

For gun room/armory interior design, it seems there are generally two common styles, either you go 1. grid mesh/pegboard/slat wall for a utilitarian look, or 2. fancy cabinets https://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2016/03/25/top-100-best-gun-rooms/ You might want to think about coordinating a colour theme for the room (e.g. grey pegboard with grey wall and not just random colours) and designing your lighting for wall displays, i.e. spot light bars on the ceiling (Best lighting are found in museums so you can get some ideas from museum lighting design)

In terms of mixing, it appears that ALL the manufactures (at least on Evike) would agree on bearings on bevel and bushing on spur and sector Not sure if this means anything https://www.evike.com/index.php?cPath=28_24_68_518

What rifle is that? That quad rail looks very short

The ones I'm using are PTV-6R0V305-R https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/eaton-electronics-division/PTV-6R0V305-R/13404670 (They are 3Fs) Resistor is https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/yageo/FMP100JT-52-2K2/9107445 LED is https://www.digikey.co.uk/en/products/detail/broadcom-limited/HLMP-1601/637567 Wire is 16 awg Deans is deans Btw I'm studying the pros/cons of omitting the resistor because the LED alone draw more than enough milliamps to function as draining resistor (with its built-in resistor), perhaps this is something you can try

@kadamski I agree with more testing with LiPo. In actual fact, rather than me buying a bunch of LiPo and just simply measuring the trigger response in milliseconds, it would be more economical and informative for me to make another unit and simply send it to you to be tested with your LiPo and looking at the currents and voltages with the scope, if you don't mind the work and sharing the results of course. That will be more insightful than me measuring with Audacity. In fact the offer is up for anyone happy to test it, the condition is you need to have a scope to look at the currents and voltages (with LiPo) and share the results. (I will pay for postage and everything) -- And btw, I have uncovered the ancient texts from the "Airsoft Mechanics" website (2005) somehow stored on the Internet Archive. There is an article and some forum posts which some interesting discussions that somewhat mirror the discussions here... https://web.archive.org/web/20110511090621/http://www.airsoftmechanics.com:80/home/content/view/16/30/1/0/ https://web.archive.org/web/20090726234228/http://forums.airsoftmechanics.com/index.php?topic=78. (sadly only the first page was saved) In the article they say they tested with some salvaged PC motherboard "2200mFD 10V" capacitors which I think is a mislabelling on their part. Because a 2200 mF or 2.2 F 10 V capacitor would be firmly in the realm of a supercapacitor (rather than a normal capacitor) but I don't think you can find these on PC motherboards. Also looking at their small picture it seems to be rather a 2200 uF (which is 0.0022 F) capacitor which is more plausible coming from a PC motherboard. In their text they refer to "microfarads" instead of "millifarads". Although their caps were in the millifarad territory, which I don't think would work, somehow they say they have improved ROF by around 3% and an unknown amount of reduced voltage drop (I think their image is missing). I don't know what to make of this. Maybe it is down to the fact they were using some 8.4 NiCd on some TM motor. The forum did confirm the OP didn't improve trigger response, although another person say it did but with unknown capacitors. All without any actual numbers so I don't think it means anything other than confirming my maths about they need more farad than a few millifarads to actually improve trigger response. -- And for the sake of continuity here is the Reddit post for future reference: https://redd.it/18k2324 -- Also semi-relevant: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tKki89sq0XY

I thought it is common knowledge that higher load means higher current, and that of course includes the initial spike, and the measurements confirm that. I am not sure what you are trying to get at, but I think if you are trying to theorise higher load will not induce higher current, not sure if that is a feasible exercise because I think it goes against conventional wisdom and also empirical data. If you are talking about the micro events at speeds of electromagnetic waves (which approaches speed of light) maybe you are onto something but I don't think this affects the "macro" effects of higher load inducing a higher inrush current. https://youtu.be/O-WCZ8PkrK0?feature=shared&t=666

I think the rabbit hole of brushed DC motors and inrush currents goes deep and I'm not ready to jump into it, sometime to do with back EMF or something

That thing looks incredibly fun to drive so I take that as compliment

I can perhaps chip in about the motor question, if we go by this graph (another semi-educated guesstimation of mine) 16 TPA is on the high speed side, and 28 TPA would be in the high torque camp. And about spring vs current, the higher the load, the higher the current draw from any motor, that is completely normal and not anomalous at all

@Sewdhull Yeah definitely a lot more testing and more data is going to give more insights, but again I don't have the equipments for this, but I am hoping anyone can just make their own units and test the working principles which should be the same even if the components are similar I think I have dropped enough hints as to what supercaps I am using and how to actually wire them, but the working bits are really not complicated, the one I built is using some 3F supercaps, they are just wired in series to make total 1F with 18V headroom, and then parallel with the batteries, I mean I think the photo alone should have enough information, but for avoidance of doubt the drain resistor is a 2.2k ohm 1W, and the LED has a built-in resistor so I don't need another one for current limiting, plus the wires, plus the heatshrinks, plus the deans, that is literally all the parts @Adolf Hamster Is it the Lonex BAW system? Never seen this before, very interesting, it seems they are using the buffer tube as some sort of recoil system but the gearbox seems to be a traditional v2 gearbox I guess if there is ever a linear solenoid system, probably the best way is use some off the shelf units if there is one that fits (I have no idea), for cost and repairability reasons

@Adolf Hamster Precocking: should benefit even more, yes. More space efficient than simply another battery for surge power: yes. Brushless motors: possibly can still benefit from the more stable system voltage, but someone needs to test this. Linear solenoid: very interesting idea, but I think it also has to do with the architecture of an M4 (or any rifle shaped object) and how to make use of the space, and I suspect using solenoids may not be the most effective strategy in terms of making use of the space available to translate electricity into moving a piston of a particular shape, I don't know. Btw, the Systema PTW Infinity gearbox is somewhat innovative in this regard and I suspect their design may be a step in the right direction. Although I'm not entirely sure considering complexity and cost etc. @Sewdhull Many thanks, for LiPo, yes it should still benefit from it (but not as much as NiMH I would imagine), the graphs were measured with an 11.1 LiPo so certainly the theory would still apply. Not sure about LiFe batteries but I would think the premise still stands, my understanding is LiFe does not have dramatically improved peak current over LiPo, the only advantage seems to be in safety if I'm not mistaken. Good point about ESR. The guy at Airsoft Lab actually says something similar about ESR being more informative than the C rating. (see below) And by the way, someone from Reddit questioned the voltage sag which prompted my to re-examine the whole voltage sag issue. I have noticed I have actually read the graph wrong and in those examples the voltage is not sagging as much as I thought (the vertical scale is off for the blue voltage curves), however, upon investigating this subject the same website is proven useful again with http://airsoftlab.eu/docs/opinions/c_rating/ which actually shows the Vdrop of several LiPo batteries at different current amps. And I think the data is potentially very interesting (I will just repeat what I typed in Reddit below) and potentially making supercaps even more useful: The Vdrop at nominal currents are wildly different from one LiPo to another Their top of the line LiPo of 2.2 Ah (which is too big for an M4 stock anyway) can do 110A with just 5.5% Vdrop However the other brands which are probably more representative of your average LiPo (used by "teenagers") goes from doing ~30A with 15% to 25% Vdrop, to 72A with 50% Vdrop (!) If we extrapolate the data we can assume the average LiPo inside an M4 at 60A is going to Vdrop in the region of 40+% albeit ± a big margin with different brands So the assumptions are really not too far off at all, and depending on your LiPo brand (which is really a mystery because no one has tested all of them) the benefits can skyrocket if you happen to have a below average LiPo unknowingly, which is 50% of the chance!!! 40% voltage sag is a big assumption, I know, but the key take away is LiPo quality vary so much that I think 40-50% voltage sag at 60A (as I understood originally) is still entirely within the realm of possibility, even with very good probability, so much so it only reinforces the whole premise of using supercaps to plug the gap in surge power performance, in my opinion.