Pseudotectonic

but when the spring compresses the whole length (every coil) rotates and it will still want to skid on your spring guide end (and occasionally do skid and jump and gouge on whatever it is sitting on) so you want to control these movements it won't all get transferred to the front

Agree you need the bearing for consistency and reduce chance of the spring getting hiccups For the 18 AWG Perun wires I actually appreciate they put this in, this is some very high wire count with silicone jacket so it's very flexible which is great for working with, and I've calculated the difference of ohm between 18 and 16 AWG for the lengths in airsoft is really negligible Have you tried polishing the piston groove walls on the gearbox and where the tappet plate and selector plate slides on? I touched up mine with some 5000 or 7000 (forgot which one) papers and it does make things glide on the gearbox better (now I actually have a problem with an overpowered m90 spring shooing 355 FPS because it is too efficient but that is another topic)

Ok that is quite a standard build so there is no crazy torque requirement to worry about which is good With 18:1 you can estimate your "paper ROF" with 27000 x (8.0/11.1) x 1/18 x 1/60 x 78% = about 14 RPS max (8.2 is because a fully charged 7.4 we can assume around 4.1 V per cell give or take) (The 78% is a universal constant for efficiency loss I find pretty spot on for all the Warheads) So you still have plenty of headroom until PME which is say just below 30, say 28+ RPS In reality you can try the Base 45k which will draw about the max amp your 7.4 is able to power anyway which should give you in the region of low 20s RPS which is still plenty of headroom below PME ceiling so the 45k would still be fine with your setup

If you get a 1/2 ported cylinder, you won't increase the FPS to the previous levels, all the 1/2 cylinder is doing is theoretically reduce the air volume to match the shorter barrel i.e. reducing the theoretical turbulence flow theoretically affecting the BB after it exits the barrel theoretically (in reality I doubt there is any observable difference) So you still need to get a stronger spring to compensate the lost FPS

What motor what gear what spring what BB what barrel length?

to keep things simple, say you want about 330 FPS for UK sites, 330/265 = 1.25 so I would say m115 is a safe bet and once you switch to .28s it will settle at about the joules you want (330 equivalent)

Hold on, are you chronoing with the hop all the way off? In case it was turned up and decreased your FPS by accident

Shorter barrel lower FPS is normal because the BB has a shorter "runway" for acceleration before exiting the barrel Solution is get a stronger spring to compensate, and/or use heavier BBs to partially recover some joules

if your gun is travelling at 300 FPS, and your BB shoots 300 FPS, your BB will still be travelling at 300 FPS, because the speed of BB is constant regardless of frame of reference according to relativistic physics, it may look faster but it is experiencing time differently because of time dilation via Magnus effect applied by the hop up

i suspect paint markers will do the job better (or correction fluid)

I find the chinese 60w adjustable irons from amazon are absolutely fine, they cheap too

If I have a garden I would build a Vtac board and just do drills for funsies

I concur .28 seems to be sweet spot for most pews up to 30 to 40 meters, and good £ per shot source: reddit https://redd.it/171ugdc

yeah when you centralise the motor tower and insert the motor to the right depth ("motor height") you will have the reference for how high the bevel gear should be shimmed at i suppose this is a simplified half-shell method, you don't install the motor grip but just shim the motor tower until it sits more or less centralised to the gearbox shell motor hole (or half of it)

Or wrap some tape around the motor tower? (Or brass tube it) which you will want to do anyway? The alignment does not really matter at this stage because the grip will align it afterwards, you just need to worry about the height for the shimming (as in how deep the motor is going into the gearbox when it is more or less centered in the hole) Once you are centered in the hole, the bottom of the motor will sit at the bottom of the grip, and these two points should automatically align the motor correctly

you can figure out the ball park height of the bevel gear by just inserting the motor without the grip, and as long as the motor tower is centralised and perpendicular to the hole and has just about right wiggle room when it is engaged with bevel at the depth you want, then it should be in the right ball park, and then afterwards use sound to do the final adjustments or use another spare m4 grip to shim it, and then use sound with the final grip

nah don't wanna take the risk of getting water trapped inside the motor tower, plus I get to monitor the brushes while it runs so to get an idea how much time it takes for new brushes to seat with the commutator

I'm scared of water ruining the grease inside the bearings so i avoided that method altogether

you should be able to insert the loader directly into the mag (no need to hold it at an angle) the flappy thing where the BB comes out is an adapter for pistol mags for normal AR mags remove the flappy thing and just insert the port directly into the mag, it should be snug enough it shouldn't come apart easily

ok my bad, didn't read I heard this type with the bigger push button is better

is that blanking block inserted the wrong way? maybe there is a cut out on the other side meant to be on this side

At any given FPS, the BB can be either hopped or no hopped the hopped BB will travel a bit further, if that is what OP is asking

Odin clones

@EDcase just an observation, that solder joint in the picture is a cold joint and might break or overheat (due to poor conductivity) And yes you can charge an AEP 7.2 V battery, just charge it with NiMH settings (or whatever chemistry it is)