Hatchet

I have the Marui (well, it used to be a Marui) and the hop is one of the things I dislike about it most. The other being the fact you have to fully disassemble the gun to do *anything* to it. I have often considered TDCing it, but you'd presumably have to go in through the top receiver and the charging handle/spring. I have avoided doing so because I'd undoubtedly balls it up. You can obviously just set the hop and then remove the adjustment lever, but you still have the fundamental problem of the hop adjustment arm being on the same axis as the recoil (unlike rotary hops). I think the Classic Army B&T uses a rotary hop so that might be an option or go with another brand, but that's not technically "fixing" yours... It is a slight mystery to me why nobody has made some sort of 3D printed solution to this (ala the MK23 hop). Guess MP5's just not that popular.

Well, I thought I was making progress after some reshimming (which legitimately seemed ok to me before, but perhaps something shifted or I got muddled after the 200th takedown and put a shim back wrong). Fired out of the box beautifully. Got it to site and... jams, crunchy noise, etc. Currently in small pieces, again. Updates on state of mosfet to follow once I get the rest of the gun working again. F*** my entire life tbh.

Well now, I don't know that I'm saying that. I mean, a dirty little MP5k GBB? Tempting... I'm just thinking that, for me, if I had to pick just one then it's probably going to be the NGRS because... gas mags, full auto, winter, etc. If I had a local that was all kill house then expect a very different set of priorities...

In theory, the box mag is wired direct to the battery and also has a signal wire. It's got a manual feed button on the side (mostly for priming) but should fire when the trigger is pulled (per the diagram). I assumed this indicated a mosfet, however see previous comments about this not being my area. I also have no idea on the other info, I'm just going based on what the light flash diagnostics on the NanoHard are suggesting. I don't have any way to actually check the current that's being pulled. However, given the box mag wiring is about 20/22AWG I feel like it's not going to be that much.

It's the 16th April isn't it, not the 1st? Just checking... I can't see it on TM's site, annoyingly. However, I'm kind of undecided which I'd prefer. Probably a recoil, but I'm kind of expecting a GBB. The original AEG MP5 is so old now. I'm also reading far too much into a grainy picture, but that polymer grip looks way nicer than the old shiny ABS.

That's useful, thanks. I am out of my depth on this one. Well, Nanohard arrived and... same issue. Mnngh. I have removed the box mag for testing and currently am still getting cut outs. There does seem to be some diagnostics on the nanohard suggest low voltage/High Resistance and current too high. I'm just fully charging up a battery to double check, since the ones I've been using previously should be good, but I want to rule it out. The problem is still there without the box mag but not as pronounced (i.e. I can do a 15-20 second burst before it cuts out). I'm wondering if the draw from the box mag motor is enough to throw it off/trigger low voltage warning but I'm just speculating. Have made sure to set battery monitoring for correct voltage and will retest with fresh battery. Incidentally, is the wiring in the 2nd picture actually possible? I'm assuming the box mag also has its own mosfet within it and was trying to get my head round 2 mosfets being driven by the same signal wire.

Update on this. Got a response from gate that said basically "your wiring looks dodgy". This is probably largely due to it also being wired to run a box mag, per the second diagram attached. Running this setup didn't seem to work. I got no additional signal from the signal wire and my electronics is weak so I didn't understand why. Ultimately, there was a lot of rebuilding/rewiring anyway and during the course of this I changed the signal wire setup to dual wire on the switch rather than single + power. This was largely so I could swap out mosfet at a later date if I wanted. Unfortunately the X-ASR is single signal wire only, so I switched to an old Gate one from the parts box. Which also doesn't work reliably. Probably the same one I used last time. In a last throw of the dice I've ordered a NanoHard which definitely is supposed to deal with trigger bounce. I can only guess that might be the issue since the 249 uses a microswitch. If it's not that, perhaps the box mag is interfering somehow, but since it's now wired directly off the motor contacts so it triggers when that does (and isn't involved with the signal wires at all), I'm not sure why that would have an effect. Much head scratching. Kind of hoping this will resolve it.

On my TM MK23 mags I load from the bottom, angled top down, by hand. This ensures the correct stacking of the bb's to fit maximum amount in and that they'll all feed correctly. There's definitely a "right" way to stack them on these because the follower is slanted. I guess if I were using a GBB and in a hurry I might do it with a speedloader, but that's about the only time I would.

Useful to know, thanks. I've emailed Gate and we'll see what they have to say. I have to say, if this is my 2nd bad experience with them I can't imagine dropping serious cash onto something like a Titan. I'm hoping a friend might be able to find the aforementioned Cheetah that's not being used so I can swap to that as it was always ultra reliable, but I'll update if there's any progress with this.

Morning all, I've recently installed a Gate X-ASR into an M249 gearbox and am experiencing some issues. Everything appears to be wired up correctly with the signal wire and positive going to the microswitch, the negative going directly to negative motor terminal. LEDs blink green on battery connection and gun fires when trigger is pulled. However, intermittently it will stop firing with the LED's flashing red/green. According to the help card, this is the trigger wire being connected to the negative motor wire. Obviously it's not. Leaving the trigger alone for a few seconds and the lights go out and firing can resume, but the same thing will recur. I wondered if this could be an overheating issue, even though the light pattern on the card suggests otherwise. Nothing's obviously hot and the shimming seemed good when tested - gears spinning smoothly in an assembled box. This is on a 22TPA motor with 13:1 gears that's pulling something like a M100 spring, so should be well within the operating tolerances of the X-ASR. Anyone come across this before or have any suggestions? I vaguely recall having similar issues with a 249 and different Gate mosfet in the past, but put it down to a bad mosfet since when I swapped it for a cheetah all was fine.

I actually do like the look of that. Nicer than the DesertTech MDR (which we're still waiting on, Silverback). Can see that if you'd spent £x hundred quid on a 3D printer that the natural conclusion might be to print all the things. I'd also like to nominate the Kriss Vector in the "why would you do that?" category.

These drops ins are meant to be quite good, but US based and you have the usual shipping, etc. - Malkoff Devices .

Nice, look forward to seeing a review. I've been keeping an eye on them for a while, but can't justify dropping that kind of cash in the current circumstances (plus lack of a regular site). I'd been holding off earlier in part due to the receiver. New one looks better, but my suspicion is that dust cover won't close as is - none of the photos/videos I've seen show that. Looks a good tool for some sneaky work.