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Got too carried away with rapid fire facepalming to actually give my own first hand experience. Used both the Super Nub and HSB in my first MWS, will be doing the same in my second. Only other thing I touch is throwing an NPAS in there as and when it's needed and if I decide to use a BAD lever (which is unlikely because I'm currently planning on doing a carry handle build with this one) I'll use a lightweight bolt stop plate to ensure the bolt continues to lock reliably. Outside of that, don't see a reason to change anything internally.

People presenting second hand information with a definitive result just grind my gears. The fella initially asking followed up with 'Will this happen?' and the chap answering literally ignored the question and just said toss it. No reason, no further explanation, no break down of the parts being used alongside the spacer. Nope, the answer to the question will this happen to me wassss... toss it. Superb, I don't know who's more daft of the pair. The one asking the questions and taking the first answer he got at face value, or the clown spouting second hand garbage (the answer is both).

Ahh the good ol' fashioned 'seen a guy'. You can always count on reliable information when it follows those 3 words.

I don't think there is much left to the imagination with the phrasing, seems entirely honest. The grip is genuine ergo grip (as the photo suggests), the stock is the PTS licenced Magpul MOE and the rest of the external bits are repro parts. I'm usually all for going through a build with a heap of crap on/in it to figure out where the value is... but on this occasion I'm inclined to agree that it's just an MWS with all the good bits replaced. If I want a RIF that takes Glock mags I'll get a... checks notes... Glock. Not to say it's over priced, though I suspect it is in terms of a price it'll actually sell at, but that is one hell of a niche thing to try and sell for such a steep price.

You can’t really boil anything down to a general consensus. The 60-70% is more a starting point based on retail prices if you’re entirely clueless on a fair price (which is why that’ll often be the outcome of advice on appraisal threads), but it’s much more a guideline than anything else. Real steal, airsoft, brand new, used is all largely irrelevant. There are two things that really matter in all of it in regard to those terms which are condition and warranty (or lack thereof). The other things to consider being availability, desirability, whether the price is an ‘all in’ price (which based on previous experience of buying from Rob I believe they are, please correct me if I’m wrong @RMDavis) and whether the seller is looking to shift their wares quickly. The only reason I’d personally be considering adjusting any price down on would be on the K2, despite the fact that within theory the cerakoting would increase the value it makes it more niche so the chances of a quicker sale would likely see a lower price… if the seller doesn’t care about ‘shifting things quickly’ then that’s largely irrelevant. As noted at the top of this post, the 60-70% is a guideline not a rule and there are various things (mostly subjective) which can adjust that percentage up on down from either the seller or the buyers perspective. My perspective as a ‘bystander’ prices a fine, but I’d expect them to take a while to sell at those prices because they aren’t ‘hype items’ that all the cool folks on YouTube that airsofters tend to watch are running around using. Now, that’s not to say they’re bad by any stretch… they’re just not rammed down your throat like Magpul and BCM tend to be as a consumer in the UK picking up RS kit (and no, that’s not to say I think Magpul or BCM are bad either… simply better/more prolific marketing).

Read as: 'Cost more than I'd have liked to spend for what I'm using it for... which is why I'm selling it for about £25 more than you can get it elsewhere in the UK brand new.' Links for reference: FNX 45 (Yes it's currently out of stock, but they're restocked with Marui frequently enough to feel like even the most impatient can wait... though I may be wildly underestimating folks patience.) Suppressor Assuming the seller actually looks for advice regarding pricing, £130 all in is likely the region I'd be listing it for. Let that be a lesson in shopping around.

While aware it's splitting hairs it might be information that's useful to some, but it's nothing to do with 'accelerant'. Taking the 3 main Abbey gasses as an example 144a and Ultra Predator are essentially the exact same gas, it's just the pressure in the can is higher in Ultra Pred. If memory serves 'Brut Sniper gas' (or whatever that's branded these days) is different in terms of what's in it because it's got no lube in it so it's essentially just dry propane (maybe perfumed?), but the increase in power is all down to the pressure it's at in the can. Generally speaking the only thing that'll cause alterations in how powerful the various brands of green gas is, is the pressure in the can. Much the same reason as to why the FPS/joules goes up as the mags get hotter... and conversely goes down when colder. Heat makes the pressure go up, cold makes the pressure go down.

The plot thickens, I tend to go through somewhere between 800-1000 rounds on a game day (depending on the wheres and whys of the site) and I found the 35 round mags hard to adjust to... so suffice to say if you're regularly slinging 4 times that on your average day I dread to think how 'inconvenient' the platforms limitations would appear. FWIW I ended up selling my first MWS, immediately regretted it and recently picked up another (largely because I wasn't in a rush because playing wasn't on the cards, I'd have likely got another sooner had it been). The second time around I know it's more going to be my 'fun gnu', at least to start with. I still land on AEGs/RIFs that are powered by electricity (truthfully I've never understood why it's insisted that PTWs are referenced to separately, they're AEGs in my eyes... but that's for another time/place) are the best RIFs for skirmishing with on an overall balance of pros/cons... and yes that's including a few years using HPA, just not worth the faff for me in the end. But having now given GBBRs a fair shake I imagine I'll always have at least one in my collection, and the MWS seems as good as any for my needs as and when the time comes that I want to use it.

The comments section on the video you linked seems as good a place as any...

Only other advice, which I meant to put in my previous post and forgot, would be that if you wind up in a similar situation when putting something in the classifieds and you're not certain on pricing don't be afraid to pop it in the appraisals section first. It'll generally serve you well to show you've at least made an effort by putting some photos in there, and if you have any idea of what sort of price you'd be looking for (whether that's with or without your working).

By my maths (and an attempt to navigate the not particularly easy to follow options on DCA) you're not far of the mark as you are. The total of what you've got listed seems to be £1100 give or take (£975 for the upgraded RIF, £125 for the EPMs). Taking the very broad sweeping general advice of 60-70% you at a range of £660-£770. Marui's tend to hold value well and yours looks to be in superb condition based on the photos. For the whole lot I actually think your price is pretty fair (expensive, but not overpriced) and despite varying opinions upgraded Marui's with Titans are desirable (albeit a big 'buyer beware' due to there being a Titan in there and no warranty from the person that installed it). Only thing I might suggest to make the price a bit less eye watering to those that might be interested would be to split the EPMs out. Sell those for £80-£90, and knock that much off the price for the RIF. Food for thought at the very least, I'm sure opinions will vary but as I said in the first paragraph expensive but not overpriced. Edit: Apologies for this grim reminder as to how much this lot cost in the first place.

For sure, if you like throwing mags around and not being able to do that is a deal breaker then that alone is enough for it to not be a good fit for you. I'm honestly not sure that's something different mags would change, they're heavy twats whatever the weather so once you're introducing gravity to that weight chances are something is breaking. I'm sure you're smart enough to know what could prevent that issue specifically, but it seems like frisbee'ing mags around ranks higher in your personal priority of things you want than the things the MWS does offer that your other platforms don't. I'm not convinced you're likely to find a GBBR/GBBSMG (is that abbreviation a thing?) that'll be able to shift that list of priorities, at least not as a 'primary squeeze' but I hope you get some degree of joy from dabbling ?‍♂️.

Not sure I say it quite ranks as fanboying (though I am genuinely surprised by the lack of fanboying to convince you that the MWS is fine, and that it is you that is the problem). Just think the opening gambit on the GBLS was poorly worded 'have you taken a look at, it might be your cup of tea' would have likely come across better give the experience/lack thereof. But I must say the entire exchange has been thoroughly entertaining and I hope it continues.

Wasn’t expecting this till tomorrow/Friday based on the tracking (good ol’ UPS)... but I’ll take it. Had nothing but regret since selling my previous one, suffice to say I won’t be making that mistake again... probably.

A pair of kydex mag holders for the Prowin Glock mags from Kydex Customs. Decided to give Tek Loks (or at least Tek Lok adjacent) a go for the first time, added convenience of swapping things about seems great. Superb work as always from the folks there. And an MCB strap/cover for the Peltors, just fancied a change.

Don't want to speak definitively, more something to keep an eye on if it's something that's likely to bother you. But once you're in the world of GBBRs and the like there is a strong chance you'll be losing zero on cheaper optics. As I say, not definitive, some of the 'naff stuff' can surpass expectations. Nevertheless, enjoy!

This feels almost like a legal line/disclaimer, but I can't guarantee bumping the power of the gas past 144a will mean the slide will survive as long as it would on 144a. I've never first hand heard or seen Nuprol 2.0 kill a Marui slide of any description, but whichever way you look at it the risk of that happening is increased, so I guess you need to figure out what your list of priorities is in terms of using flashy parts, it working reliably, it being more powerful, stock parts not breaking etc. If it were me putting myself in your shoes, I'd be returning everything to stock and get it working on 144a, because I don't see why you need the extra power given the reason you own the RIF and that'll give you the best lifetime on the stock parts. If it were me as someone that skirmishes, I'd run it stock on Nuprol 2.0 (or similar) till it breaks and then just replace the things that broke... because I feel like the risk of the high powered gas is worth the reward of the additional performance. I don't personally think that risk/reward works out in your favour given what you have the RIF for, but that's up to you to decide ultimately.

Aye, I use green gas in all of my Marui Glocks and haven't killed the slides on any of them yet. Granted that's not entirely useful information, different shape/sized slides will likely have different breaking points. I've never fit one myself but from what I understand with the Guarder Glock kits they're a bit of a nightmare to fit, no idea how that translates to the other Guarder kits but food for thought. Granted it seems like them being a prick to fit might be a plus in your case ?. As for losing trades, you'd be able to get those engraved/etched on there somewhere if you particularly wanted to. Of all the Ali things I've read on this forum, this might be the most Ali thing I've read on this forum.

I wouldn't say that's the case, but hopefully you can understand how bumping the thread less than 24 hours after posting it on a Bank Holiday weekend and then bemoaning the community at large might rub folks the wrong way? Certainly an unusual tactic for trying to get advice/help. As with many of your other questions it's hard to say for sure because you've swapped things around. There are various parts in a GBB pistol that I'd personally consider consumables (nozzles, springs etc) in that I expect them to need swapping out at some point. Moving up from 144a will likely mean these parts would need swapping out quicker, but that's assuming those parts are currently stock. The one thing I wouldn't consider a consumable, though many (especially Hicapa builders) would, is the slide. As others have stated I've heard anecdotal evidence that green gas can kill Marui slides but I've never had it happen myself. Granted outside of a flamboyant Hicapa build which I've since sold I tend to keep my Marui pistols stock.

FWIW you're kind of talking around in circles at this point with the whole 'learn curve' thing. Without intending to be confrontational or offensive, though undoubtedly being both, based on the follow up question regarding what gas to use you'd have still been out of your depth had it been a Hi-capa or a Glock you were working on because your foundation of knowledge is so low. Bit too late now, but the 'Probably not the best choice for a new guy, but you don't learn without a challenge.' doesn't hold a huge amount of water given it would have still be a challenge had you started with a platform better suited to someone with your level of experience. Granted in my opinion, when it comes to airsoft work you're at the mercy of generally shite QC and tolerances so outside of wider/more convenient parts availability I'm not really sure that the starting RIF makes much of a difference... the largest difference being the size of the knowledge base around the platform. Which is likely why you've found getting answers more difficult alongside how awkawrd it is to actually diagnose issues as has already been highlighted. As for the gas question, there are a few variables that go into it. The main question is longevity versus performance. In a Marui 144a is enough to get them to function and is what is recommended by Marui. Bear in mind Marui are a Japanese company, that manufacture their RIFs for the Japanese market and such, Japanese limits. They couldn't give a monkeys about the limits anywhere else. You can get higher power out of them with green gas, but as you've said they'll likely hit a point of failure sooner than they would on 144a. Much the same as running a battery powered RIF that's advised to be run on a 7.4v battery with an 11.1v battery, it'll work with either but it wasn't manufacturered to deal with the additional strains of an 11.1. You'll want to be operating within legal limits (which I'd hope you know for wherever you're located), green gas is what the majority use in the UK (perfumed propane with some lube in).

Unless I've been wildly misinformed pressure in gas mags is rarely a bad thing, at least at the pressures all conventional propellants used in airsoft over here operate at. Not that I imagine it's at all significant when it comes to storage but I wouldn't be shocked if the pressure in there drops between now and Thursday evening, can't speak for where you're located but it's been roasting hot here today!

You want to leave gas in your mags at all times (unless you're doing maintenance or shipping them somewhere). Whatever your green gas of choice is, is fine inbetween games. If you're leaving them in storage/not using them for an extended period of time then some form of maintenance gas is the smarter play (it tends to have more lube it in, keep the o-rings fresh for longer). If pure propane is your propellant of choice I've always emptied the mags (by firing rather than purging) and then popping some maintenance gas in while not in use, purely because propane without any lubricant is very dry so this helps keep the o-rings healthy and saves on the requirement for more frequent 'proper' maintenance. Worth noting this isn't limited to the MWS, same goes for all gas powered RIFs. Not to say I think there is an exact science to it, I'm sure folks have their own ways... this is just how I do it. Not the question you were asking but linked, I don't know if it's particularly necessary but I always make sure the mags are empty in terms of BB. Main reason is to keep the springs happy... secondary benefit being for safety reasons... means I'm not guessing what weight BBs are in mags when it comes to chrono time.

Assuming you're in the UK, or a handful of other places which are listed on HAOs website, shipping is currently suspended so I expect they'll get round to a cancellation/refund before it'd be getting sent out.

If I was to draw any correlation it'd tend to be the dreamer/borderline dreamer posts tend to increase around paydays. I'm assuming that's folks seeing a new shiny they want from their hard earned coin but falling slightly short, dipping into the collection to make up the difference. In the case of that admittedly overpriced CM.041 my initial thoughts were 'I wouldn't pay that, but also find me another in stock' (which is now somewhat moot because TG have had a restock, granted some aren't willing to buy from TG at present). Very much priced to catch someone impulsive that's in a rush to get one. Do I think it's a dreamer price? Yup. Do I think there is someone out there that might if you wait long enough? Probably. In terms of actual advice should the seller read this, after shipping fees and potential import charges you're probably looking at a similar cost from TG as you would be Patrol Base (you might get lucky and skip the fees but we'll go with 'worst case'). The arbitrary starting point of 60-70% of £230 (it's useful as a baseline if nothing else) falls at £138-161. Considering they're seemingly relative hard to get your hands on at present, if it were me I'd likely list it for £180 including all fees and postage.