Impulse

Unfortunately, mouse fart is what I want. Yes, I go HPA for performance because being able to dictate how much air gets pushed out means I don't have to faff around with cylinder-to-barrel ratio, but the main draw to HPA for me is the mouse fart quietness and it's why the only HPA guns I have are sniper rifles. The high ROF speedyboi HPA builds make me sick That said I am considering doing this, at least at first since HPA engines seem few and far between for v2.5 gearboxes (and out of stock everywhere). It won't be perfect, but as you say you can make a pretty quiet AEG, especially if it's only on semi, since full auto is what gives away your position far more than the occasional shot on semi. Yeah, this is what I thought too. Unless you get custom parts, the weird nozzle causes issues on the V2 style SR-25s if you drop in a HPA engine for a V2 gearbox. Fortunately, I wasn't a huge fan of the two V2 SR-25s on the list (Ares and G&G). Whereas the A&K, G&P, Classic Army and Cyma ones all seem to be clones of the same design, which I -think- was the G&P originally.

Hello everyone! Yes, this is a "wat am best gnu?" thread, but I would love to get some opinions and feedback on the research I have already done into this matter. In essence, my m21 build, while I love it, is really annoying me with a jamming issue that doesn't happen all the time and doesn't appear to have any fix (I've tried about half a dozen different fixes and none have stuck) and whenever it does happen it's not the nicest RIF to take apart to extract the jammed BB, so I am going to be in the market for another HPA "DMR" setup. Why do I put DMR in quotations? Because I'm keeping it 1.1J and making it as consistent as possible so it's basically just going to be a sniper rifle with no MED for use at sites where sight lines are limited, like my local site during the summer and the Gunman Eversley sites during their sniper ban time of year. So that gets me onto the meat and potatoes of the topic. I'm looking at an SR-25 as the base to build on, as I like the AR15 platform but want to keep it 7.62x51mm since I have plans for a recce rifle type build for my MWS in the future which will be the same concept, but loud, gassy and recoil-y and in 5.56x45mm. This one I want to keep quiet and stealthy and 7.62x51mm. Looking through the SR-25 replicas, it seems I have a few options: - Cyma - JG - A&K - ARES ? - Classic Army - G&P (out of production?) What I'm looking for are good externals and a solid gearbox shell. Gearbox internals, motor, barrel, hop rubber etc are all getting scooped out anyway so I don't particularly care about that. I think they all have somewhat decent externals, but are there any I should watch out for? I think I like the Cyma the most, just because I've owned Cyma guns before and they've always been amazing and it seems pretty easy to get hold of with extra magazines, but I've heard great things about the A&K, though that seems to be out of stock everywhere and the G&P which seems to be the holy grail of SR-25s I just can't find anywhere. Another point for the Cyma is that if I went with it I could leave it as an AEG until I can get a HPA engine for it (they seem to be out of stock in a lot of places), and just do my accuracy upgrades since the platinum edition looks like it performs pretty decently out of the box and has nothing I'd want to change about the gearbox. Inb4 everyone comes in like "the Cyma one is craptastic, don't get it!" My concern over internals is mostly down to gearboxes, since some appear to be V2, some V2.5, and the compatibility of HPA engines with said gearboxes. Plus, it looks like I'd have to move out of my comfort zone if I went with one of the (many) V2.5 gearbox ones, since Wolverine don't appear to do an engine for the SR-25 so I'd be looking elsewhere (both of my current HPA setups are Wolverine). What HPA engines are out there that are compatible with a V2.5 gearbox? I've found the Polarstar Kythera, but that's about it and I've heard the purely mechanical HPA engines can be less consistent / noisier than battery operated ones (at least that seems to be true with all the VSR systems (mancraft vs bolt m vs bolt)). I'll be fixing it to semi-auto anyway, so that limitation of the Kythera isn't an issue, but I'd rather get some opinions or user experiences before shelling out on something as expensive as a HPA engine. TL:DR Wat am best SR-25? Wat am best HPA engine for a V2.5 gearbox?

Very different experience to me. I'm still using the same chest rig that I bought 14 years ago and it's still showing no signs of wear outside the elastic bands used to keep straps in check (which isn't a necessary part of the kit anyway...)

I have the Maple Leaf hop unit in my 1911 and it's great. Assuming the hop unit is good, I always get a Maple Leaf rubber (typically autobot, 60 or 70 degree as I don't like 50) and a Hadron H-plate, then usually get a Maple Leaf Crazy Jet barrel or a Nineball 6.03 tightbore because I like stainless steel barrels. The only difference is I get the Maple Leaf I-key instead of the H-plate if I'm using the Maple Leaf hop unit like in my 1911 as it works better with the Maple Leaf hop arm and how it's designed/shaped. These setups, usually give me a pistol that will range most AEGs while keeping below the 1.1J limit for pistols, which is very helpful as a sneaky-beaky bush monster as I sometimes feel like I'm running pistol primary, sniper rifle secondary. With this I'll typically run .32s in all my pistols with this setup, because I believe any heavier in a pistol is a dick move. Yes, I'm looking at you guys with your mk23s loaded with .48s...

Thing that stands out to me outside of that is get deans connectors fitted to it and the 7.4v batteries and you should be good to go, as the steps you've taken are pretty much what I would have done too. I like low/midcaps myself, so I'd get magazines, but a single TM highcap and a bag of BBs is perfectly skirmishable (and probably more practical than carrying several midcaps). Otherwise it looks pretty good! I imagine it'll shoot nicely on that.

Buy yourself a chrono. One of the most underrated pieces of kit for an airsofter to own is their own chrono so they can test things like this at home, especially for HPA users and people who tech their own guns. As you don't have one, what I'd say is set it to about 60psi and take it to the range early on the day, before chronos are set up. Get the hop dialled in, then once it's dialled in and shooting well, take it to chrono and see where it's shooting at. If it's super below 1.1J, adjust the reg a little, but if it's close to a joule I'd say leave it until you have your own chrono and can take as much time as you want fine tuning the reg and FCU, which you will want to do as you'll want to set the dwell and the psi properly to make it as consistent as possible. If you want to fine tune it, you could ask the staff if you can borrow a chrono and sit the first game out, but I wouldn't pester the staff before the games as they'll have their hands full chronoing everyone else. I have my own chrono so I usually take my chrono up to the range, get my m21 set for 1.1J on the money, adjust my scope, make sure the hop is right etc, then I go to chrono for the site once I've done all my own setup with my own chrono.

You replace the stock flash hider with the one that comes with the QD suppressor, then the QD suppressor slips over it when you push the base of the suppressor upwards. It's weird to explain, but really simple and obvious when you get it. In terms of good ones, I'd recommend AGAINST the 5KU ones. I bought one of their KAC style QD suppressors and while they come foam-filled and will probably be great on an AEG, they wobble too much on a GBBR and you end up clipping the end of the suppressor on some of your shots. I had one on my TM MWS and it was really disappointing as I loved how it looked.

@heroshark does some pretty great eye protection if you can get along with mesh. You get far more visibility with his stuff than normal mesh and I've got a pair with prescription inserts that I keep for when it's a really foggy day and my Revision Sawflys start fogging (which in itself is fairly rare...) Speaking of which, Revision Sawflys are really good. A bit pricey, but quality eye protection is worth every penny spent. I'm also looking to get myself a set of their Desert Locust goggles with prescription inserts and the inbuilt fan to try and combat fogging for a fully covered CQB loadout that I want to put together at some point. They are super expensive, but as I said, quality eye protection is always worth it.

Best is definitely the Wolverine Bolt for my VSR. It got me into HPA sniping and it really changed the game on how well my VSR performs. Absolutely amazing piece of kit! Worst is probably... any of the random sale items I bought thinking "that's a good price and I might use it in the future" and then never used and relegated to my kit bag. Fortunately it's not that much, but it doesn't change the fact that they were awful purchases.

Have you heard the word of the LPVO? (Low Power Variable Optic) I love LPVOs on my "regular" rifles. You can use it like a red dot, setting it to 1x and looking down the rifle with both eyes open, but having that flexibility to go up to 4x, 6x or even 8x is great for those long range shots and also reconnaissance stuff. I only use red dots on my SMGs. All my rifles have some sort of variable zoom optic.

So what you're saying is, that as someone who loves all things gas and HPA, I should avoid Anzio. I think I'm picking up what you guys are putting down there. Seriously stupid though. The whole point you sometimes run lighter BBs in gas guns is because they creep like mad. My m700 only has a 500mm barrel, not the stock 630mm one, and on 144a it will shoot a .3 at about 1.1J and a .48 at about 1.6J. Pretty sure my MWS would be hot if I put anything heavier than a .32 in it too.

Depends on your local site, in my opinion. For me, DMRs are useless at Worthing, as 1.6J with a 30m MED just isn't worth it; even if you want to play marksman you're better off with a bolt action since 2.3J will get you significant range increases and the MED is the same at 30m (and it's incredibly thick with foliage 6 months of the year, making snipers useless too). Different sites tend to have different rules for DMRs and I've written basically a thesis on it in another thread on this forum somewhere since I used my m21 setup to experiment with different powers (HPA is useful like that), but TL:DR is this: 1.48J - totally useless. Stay at 1.1J for no MED. I saw no noticeable difference in effective range. 1.64J - mostly useless. Maybe consider if your local site is fairly open and your MED is only 20m. Even then I only really saw a difference of about 5m effective range over 1.1J. 1.88J - enough to be useful. Probably wouldn't consider with a 30m MED as I have a bolt action with a 30m MED at 2.3J and an effortless bolt pull so I can shoot it fairly fast (still might though) but would go for it with a 20m MED easy. Saw enough of a boost in effective range to make it worthwhile. As a result of Worthing's DMR rules being craptastic, I've long since been honing the idea of a 1.1J "semi-auto sniper" build myself; the goal was to get the most range, consistency and silence while having no MED by keeping to 1.1J. I managed around 65m effective range (at least 9/10 shots hitting a man-sized target) and I find it to be more than enough for most engagements, though Worthing is not a very sniper rifle friendly site even in winter (but it's way better than the woodland CQB of summer). I am a big advocate of the 1.1J DMR/Sniper build and think they're underestimated in the airsoft community for just how savage they can be. Plus people moaning "that's a bit close for a sniper/DMR" is always amusing. Now that I've rambled enough, I'll actually get to my recommendation. Pick up your DMR rifle of choice, whether it's a Cyma m14 (they're nice...), SR-25 or something else. Then don't touch the gearbox, leave it at 1J and pick up a new hop rubber (I like 70 degree maple leaf macarons for AEG style rubbers), hop up nub and if you've got the cash a new inner barrel. Then simply play like a DMR as @Tackle suggested and see if you like the play style and get a feel for how much an MED might inconvenience you; remain mindful of your shots and the distances you're typically shooting at and experiment. Maybe play a game where you shoot only at targets over 20/30m, depending on the DMR MED at your site, then play the next game with no such limitation and see which you prefer. However, I will refute his point that they're 100% compatible and say they're about 95% compatible. There are tiny tolerances that are different, though you'll only encounter them if you work extensively on it. For example, TM magazines will fit in a Cyma m14, but they're really, REALLY picky about how you put them in and if you don't put them in right they'll fall out, while Cyma magazines in a TM will need to be forced in a little. Also, a Cyma stock won't fit on a TM gearbox and upper receiver. How do I know? Because I have both a Cyma and TM m14 and have discovered these while working on them

YEET CANNON?! ? Don't be silly, nobody is masochistic enough to own one of these...

I'd suggest one of two avenues to approach this. The "out of the box" approach: Get a TM NGRS. They fire great out of the box, recoil is present (though it's nothing to write home about. Get a GBBR if you want a bit more kick and impracticality) and it stops shooting when your mag is empty which is a nice little addition. Shove a 7.4v lipo in and run .25s or .28s in it and you'll love life. Maybe put a maple leaf hop rubber and omega nub in at a later date if you're feeling spicy The "I'm going to tinker" approach: Get a Cyma AK, m14 or mp5 (or whoever does a good m4 if you like AR15s, idk). Get a 60 or 70 degree maple leaf macaron rubber, an omega nub and a 6.03 prommy or a ZCI barrel. Spend the rest of the money on blackjack and hookers because that'll probably come to only around £200ish and the upgrades are easy to install. I never open AEG gearboxes (outside of stripping them entirely and shoving an HPA engine inside) because all the gears and stuff is techno-sorcery, but barrels and hops are incredibly easy to change out.

#NotAllHPAUsers I feel called out by the title ?. In short, that guy is a cretin. Even if it was two guys it would be wrong, because you should never go for blows over BB wars, but the fact he goes in swinging on a woman is plain despicable. However, she is also partially in the wrong for spamming all those shots at his face at point blank range. Also, the guy recording is really slow to get involved. He should've jumped in there immediately to separate the two, but he just stands there and lets the assaulter swing a bunch before limply pulling the guy away. Literally all three people in this video are at fault and I hate it.

AAP to Ruger project is going well. Lower receiver arrived and that's the first pistol lower I've had to completely strip out (as the Ruger lower comes empty, you have to take all the AAP-01 bits out of the stock lower and put them into the Ruger lower apart from the safety and the mag release button). Still want to get some real wood grips, a metal upper (but they're pricey), a new inner barrel as the stock one is short and some different rear sights, but it's now very much usable as a Ruger. New Namsoft sidearm acquired, and this one is more reliable and shoots better than my 1911. VC sniper now has a period-appropriate assassin pistol

I just ordered a lower for my AAP-01 from them last week and they were great. Delivery took 9 days, no additional fees on a $35ish parcel and it all arrived nicely packaged. Would buy from them again.

What a weekend; Namsoft is incredibly fun. Went to Operation Boogaloo at Gunman Eversley Alpha as VC with two friends and we caused havoc. Myself and one of my friends were a pair of VC snipers who harassed the US forces all through both Saturday and Sunday. We would shoot a few, then bug out before they could organise a counter-attack and we basically did this all weekend. US forces kept leaving their radio masts unguarded, so it would've been rude of us not to constantly take their radio masts down through the weekend, which sent their morale-o-meter into the gutter (which was our objective as VC and PAVN). The other guy in our group spent the entire Saturday playing as a farmer, ditching all his military equipment and walking around the site with a rake, watching the US forces and their movements, then getting somewhere quiet and radio-ing in their locations. They were getting very jumpy, but to their credit they never shot him as he played the part of the scared farmer very well. This continued into Sunday, where we kept going with the same tactics. Our farmer changed out into a French uniform and played the part of a French mercenary HVT for the Aus forces to hunt down and kill, but they never got him. We even went on a stealth mission as two snipers (my friend was also marked as a HVT by this point), our French HVT and a PAVN soldier to take out one of their radio masts, but we managed to sneak past the US platoon in the area, do the objective and then bug out. Our HVTs never died (though the Aussies got very close to the French merc) and it was a fairly dominant performance by the VC and PAVN. Numbers were 55 US/Aus vs 22 VC/PAVN on Saturday, down to 25 US/Aus vs 15 VC/PAVN on Sunday, so while outnumbered we played to our strengths really well and the VC/PAVN guys I played with were all absolutely knackered by the end because we had to fire and fade so much over the weekend and Eversley Alpha is a pretty hilly site... Only my 2nd Namsoft game, but I'm definitely going back. The VSR performed amazingly and I think all bar two of my kills were 60+ metres (with most of those being 70+ and one of the less than 60m kills being with the pistol) and I thoroughly enjoyed the filmsim experience. I'll never get into milsim, as when I tried that I didn't really enjoy it, but filmsim is an absolute blast and I encourage people to give it a go. Also, especially considering how annoying we were being, I didn't have anyone get mad and square up to me this time (that group wasn't there, funnily enough), but I did have someone moan to me about a headshot I did at about 60m. I'll always aim for the chest and tried explaining how long range shots work (like how the hop up makes the BB go upwards towards the end of the trajectory, how a slight breeze will take the BB on a magical mystery tour, how a leaf will knock the BB out of the park and get a home run), but he wasn't prepared for me to speak and clearly just wanted to have a go at me; I tried explaining my side of it, but he wasn't interested in listening, only venting, so I gave up. Otherwise my experience was fantastic and I loved the whole thing. Some of the special forces guys shook my hand after the first day and said how impressive some of my shots were. Playing as a sniper can be pretty uneventful sometimes, but when you have one of these games where you feel like you're making a silly amount of impact on the game, it makes it all worthwhile. Haven't had such a good game in a long time!

I never played MW2 that much back in the day because it used matchmaking instead of people having privately owned dedicated servers that you browsed in a server browser like CoD4 had (this is all on PC, never been much of a console pleb). I saw matchmaking as a cancer in online gaming that eroded any sense of community and I still do; privately owned dedicated servers were the way to go and you would always go back to the same ones, so you'd know all the regulars and there was generally just an amazing sense of community, but matchmaking is just a cheap one and done. As such, I won't be getting it. I didn't even get CoD4 remastered (where I preferred both the single and multiplayer), because if I wanted to play it I'd just play the original, but where most people view MW2 with rose-tinted nostalgia goggles, I actually view it as the beginning of the end of good online PC gaming, because after MW2 it felt like every PC game decided to go with matchmaking instead and yes, I'm salty about that. Oh, also Activision-Blizzard are scum. Not giving them any money.

I was going to sell my AAP-01 at an airsoft car boot that Worthing did, but nobody wanted to buy my stuff (all custom builds, all more pricey than the stock stuff others were selling) and then my friend told me about some ruger outer barrels and I wondered at the possibility of building it to be another sidearm I can use for Namsoft. Still waiting on the grips to arrive from HK, but the outer barrel arrived and I love it. Well, apart from the fact it's a different colour black to the rest Will get a metal upper receiver for it too as it feels weird having a heavy barrel and a light frame, and I'll get a longer inner barrel that reaches a bit further down this one as it's longer than the original.

Plus they don't just have sales, they have FUCKIN' SALES! Might pick up some wood grips for my 1911 from them if they're good. Need some for my two 1911s and my ruger project which uses TM 1911 grips

Can't speak for Dogtag themselves because I've never been and don't plan on going (because I hear way more horror stories than good ones from there...), but the Defiant Events guys are great and run milsim events at sites around the south. I went to Op. Spectre (the one they ran at Worthing) and while it wasn't my cup of tea it was well run and organised. Their website is https://www.defiantevents.co.uk

Unless you're fine-tuning the build with some incredible granularity (we're talking the "the only thing stock are the externals" type builds), I agree with @Adolf Hamster. PDI aren't worth the investment and ZCI are both fantastic and cheap. In terms of hop rubber I prefer the macaron over the MR rubber myself as I find it more consistent, plus the macaron contact patch has no issues with barrels. ZCI barrel, Maple Leaf 60 or 70 degree macaron and an omega nub is all you need

I don't know if many companies do a 500mm with the correct cut for normal AEGs, as 500mm are typically m14 barrels which have a weird hop unit. I think ZCI are hybrid cut, but if you don't want a ZCI barrel, I'd look at 509mm barrels instead as they're far more plentiful with the correct hop up cuts.