Impulse

Typically AEGs will find longer barrels more difficult because of air volume issues. The gearbox only has so much air to push through the barrel, so if you have more barrel volume than cylinder volume your BB will stop accelerating and start decelerating while it's still in the barrel. However, if you have more cylinder volume than barrel volume you will end up wasting a lot of air as there is more air to push after the BB has left. This makes it a bit louder as you get a more noticeable pop as the BB escapes the barrel and the air expands, but it can also have some issues that I can't remember. All I remember is discussing it with a tech and he told me what happens but I can't remember exactly what he said, I just remember it sounded like a valid issue that I wouldn't want. For HPA it isn't such a problem because you can typically adjust your dwell depending on how long your barrel is, allowing more air to released per trigger pull in order to properly fill the barrel. A properly volumed HPA setup will joule creep like a gas gun. For gas guns, the problem with longer barrels is joule creep. With a gas gun the BB will constantly accelerate through the barrel as the gas constantly expands through it, much in the same way a bullet will accelerate more through a longer barrel than a shorter one. So when you have a heavy BB, which starts and moves slower than a lighter BB at the same energy, it will have far longer in the barrel to accelerate and will leave with a far greater muzzle energy than a short barrel due to the relative increase in energy imparted through the longer acceleration. All that said, you don't need a long barrel to have a "DMR" as it's just a designation in airsoft of a rifle that is semi-auto locked and typically has a higher energy limit and an MED. However, I'm a bit of a purist and am of the belief that a DMR should at least look like a DMR, so a 14.5" or 16"+ outer barrel is a must in my opinion, and then I'd just get an inner barrel that will go all the way through it. If you're going HPA, the only thing I would watch out for is joule creep, however you can easily fine tune the power output by tweaking the psi on the regulator to make sure you're within your site's limits.

First Aliexpress parcel arrived today, so hopefully the others will arrive this week too. This one was only £91 including taxes because of the sale they had last week. Looked through it and it's crystal clear, but need to get a battery for it so I can see how the illumination works. Zoom looks nice, though I can only really tell this once it's on the rifle because holding it my hand on 6x zoom is interesting, but the reticle is exactly the kind of reticle I wanted. Came with exactly the scope mounts I was going to get separately too... and they're too low so it won't go on my m14 as it rests on the rear iron sight, so will need to pick up some mediums 😂

I don't find it that hard, however I'm very used to using a bolt action sniper rifle, since that's what I've used for over a decade, and I like to remain undetected. Nothing gives your position away more than a bit of trigger spam; you'd be surprised how much a single shot can go unnoticed. But yeah, it's unfortunate that a lot of people can't control themselves

DMR rules are the rules that vary the most across different sites. The basic premise is that they have higher power, but must be locked to semi-auto, have an MED and you will not be allowed to spam the trigger; usually the rule is "one in the air", so you have to watch your shot to completion before pulling the trigger again. However, there are things that can vary: Power - I've seen lots of different power limits. 1.48J, 1.64J, 1.88J, 2.32J are all powers that I have seen for DMRs at different sites RIF type - Some events and sites require the RIF to be a DMR in the real world. This usually means it has to be some sort of .308 calibre replica like an m14 or SR-25, or something like a mk12, VSS or SVD if it's not a .308 replica Stock - Some sites mandate that a DMR must have a stock. Some don't. I don't mean like a fixed stock vs retractable stock, I mean in terms of not allowing something like a revolver or mk23 without a carbine kit to be used as a DMR And yes, as has been said, people tend to look down on it when people put a scope on something like an m4 or arp-9 or something like that, up the power to DMR limits and then spam the trigger. It's mostly spamming the trigger though, that's the big no-no when it comes to DMRs. Cue the "that's not full auto, this is" video clip.

Generally anything Tokyo Marui will be good, so I'd take a look through the pistols that TM have on offer and see if you like them. Outside of that, I really like the AAP-01. It's super modifiable and pretty reliable as long as you don't use the fun switch. If you want to use the fun switch, they require upgrading because the full auto will blow the trigger sears apart. I've had no issues with mine at all, but I only run them semi-auto.

So, finally got to test my mk12 MWS with the sixG nub and stock TM hop rubber. Initially I was a little disappointed as while it hopped .4s, it required me to put the hop all the way on and I want to be running .43s through it once I get through these .4s. However, as the hop rubber started bedding in it started hopping way better and when I tested it with some of my friend's .43s it fired like a dream; it's set up at 1.8J (ish) and locked to semi as a DMR. Hard to get a gauge on what the effective range will be because it was stupidly windy on Sunday, so will have to see on a less breezy day to properly zero the scope and see where I can reliably put rounds.

Only played half the day today at Worthing, but not the morning this time. I had so much I needed to do in the morning that I only got out in the last 40 mins before lunch, then played through the afternoon. I brought a small armoury with me today as I wanted to give 3 guns to a local tech (G&P m14 DMR, Cyma SR-25 and A&K m249), then I brought two guns to give to my friend as he's buying them from me (Cyma m14 and TM Hi-Capa 4.3) and finally I brought some guns for me to actually use (both MWSs). I had to set up the Cyma m14 and TM Hi-Capa before handing them off, so I did that first. All good there. Then I had to set up my MWS with a new hop setup and initially it wasn't amazing. Hop up was on the all the way and it was hopping the .4s, but since I wanted to run .43s I was a little crestfallen. Oh well. I then went back to the car, took the G&P m14 apart and sprayed the stock OD to cover a digital desert camo that was already on there (got it 2nd hand and that was what was on it), and then sprayed the cheek riser and heatshield plain black. Only took two coats, so I sprayed it, waited for it to mostly dry, then gave it a 2nd go over and it looks so much better now. Left it hanging on the tree for the whole game day as it wasn't meant to rain and I wanted to give it the maximum amount of time to dry. So I finally got out to play with the mk12 MWS, set up as a DMR at about 1.8J. At first I went to a path and saw a ghillie in a holly bush at the end of it as I was peeking through a crack in the wood, so I waited until someone from my team pushed up, I saw him faffing with his pistol and then peeked and took him out. As my team pushed up to where I was, I saw that nobody was covering a very obvious route where the enemy players seemed to be attacking from and then shooting our team in the back, so I set up by a barricade and simply watched that way. Despite the fact that it looked like I was well out of the fight I got a surprising number of hits on players trying to sneak up that way until I heard a lot pushing from the other flank, so I repositioned to get an angle on them. Despite the fact I was only out for 40 mins, I got a lot of hits so it felt good. Then I went out in the afternoon and the hop rubber in the MWS is starting to bed in. It was overhopping the .4s now, so I took it down a few clicks to get it straight again. I also tried some .43s at lunch as my friend had some and it was hopping them amazingly well, so 2kg of .43s is being ordered this evening. It was a 3 base domination and I managed to crawl onto the side of a small log pile, deploying my bipod and watching the right of the base with my friend on his bolt action a few metres back and covering my blindside. Managed to stay there all game, slotting any of the enemy team who came down the right side and none of them could locate me, despite the fact that I'm not exactly using the quietest of guns; MWS is a GBBR after all! I only got hit because a bunch of rentals crouched behind me, despite there being no cover, and someone shot at them and hit me by accident. Thanks guys... 😐 We then swapped sides and I took to defending the flanks again. It's a thankless job, but someone has to do it! Final game that I played was an attack and defend with us as the attackers. I crawled all the way along a flank, as the foliage is high enough to where I can get into good firing positions on the base without people seeing me at all, which is exactly what I did. Sniped a few of the defenders from their positions and then took up a spot to try and cut off reinforcements. The only shame is I got a lovely shot on someone moving in to medic another person I had already shot, only for him to completely ignore the shot. It was getting later in the day where people haven't drunk enough water and hit taking was getting questionable, but I was going to call it there anyway. I still had to get back to the safe zone to reassemble my newly olive drab sprayed m14 so I could give it to the tech, along with my SR-25 and m249, so I did that. 6 week lead time, but I'm not desperate, especially with the fact that we're in spring and will be moving into summer at some point; all my gas guns will be at their best, so that's what I'll use for now!

I think he meant that at range it will (generally) hit a target quicker because it decelerates slower than a lighter projectile. I don't have the exact numbers, but it's typically at longer ranges. Up close, the lighter BB will hit first because of the initial speed and less time for it to decelerate. But yes, they leave the barrel slower with the same energy. 2.32J with a .2 is 500fps and with a .48 is something like 322fps

I hate the reticle, which is why I discounted it a while ago. The price point where I start liking the reticle with Vortex is £330 with the new Venom series. Used to be £500 for the Strike Eagles as a minimum for me, which I didn't want to spend, especially for a rifle I won't be using all that much as it's a backup

No, run .25s if you want. You can get some nice performance out of HPA using heavy BBs because you don't have to worry about air volume like you generally do with AEGs, but it's not the be all and end all. There's also a bunch of reasons why heavier in general is better, but that's across all platforms, not just HPA. I'm tired of people pretending HPA is some sort of magical system that does something revolutionary when it's functionally the same as an AEG (using air to propel a small plastic ball). Will you get better performance out of heavier BBs? Yes Will using .25s be pointless? No

I did look at the other Victoptics ones, but honestly that 1-6x is the best for what I want it to do. Good to hear that there is no real discernable difference (my eyesight is only 20/20 when corrected too!) and £91 is absolutely fine for me to pay. If I was getting a scope for a real gun I'd spend more and also if I was getting a scope for one of my bolt action rifles or DMRs I'd spend more as well because I love my long distance archery airsoft, but as it's for a 1.1J recce rifle style build, I'm sure this 1-6x will be absolutely fine for what I want to do

Ah, I'm using the G&P mount on my socom as well, so that's definitely a concern. My cheapo LPVO cleared the rear sight on some pretty low mounts, but it's obviously not the same LPVO, so will have to see. The mounts that it comes with look medium-ish (not going for the one-piece mount), so I'll try those out. If not, I'll measure them and get lower ones accordingly. I think I might just get the victoptics one, since a bunch of you have said it's good and at the current sale price on Aliexpress it feels like a steal at £76 £91 including tax. Plus I just got a new job (offer literally came in this morning) with a decent pay bump, so I'm sure I can afford to buy one

My experience with autobot rubbers is that they seem to be great in everything that isn't an MWS or AKM. I have autobots in damn near everything, my sniper rifles, my pistols... but not my MWSs or my AKM because they were just horrendously inconsistent and flung BBs all over the place.

Appreciate it, but I'm going lowwwww. I had a LPVO on it before on very low rings and it felt great, so I'm going for the same here (just with a better LPVO with a 1x instead of 1.5x minimum)

Just to be clear, I don't mean the entire setup, just the suspenders! And sorry, I lied. £14. Still, it's a great price. Alice kit tends to be pretty cheap and I love it. https://www.military1st.co.uk/13501001-mil-tec-us-lc2-suspenders-olive.html

Sorry for the double post, but the timing worked out this way. I know it isn't period accurate for all you stitch counters, but new harness arrived for my Vietnam belt kit and it was £12 well spent. The period accurate one is simply not made for 6'5 individuals. Even at the max setting it was just too short and held the belt up too high. This new one is longer and actually fits me comfortably, keeping the belt where it should be. Also I added a knife sheath because knife kills are always amusing. Fits everything I need for a good time hunting GIs with their own kit

Oh you magnificent bastard, I like this one. $96 for the SFP one with regular low rings (I'd probably buy some even lower ones elsewhere, but 30mm is easy to shop for!) and with a reticle that I like. It seems to tick all the boxes and it's not too pricey!

I actually got mine from Amazon (UK, but it's a Japan import), because while Octagon Airsoft have them, the postage is too much if you only want that. As for spare parts, bztactical in the UK is good for KWA parts, but if not you can get KSC parts from Rainbow8. They have basically everything (and KSC is the same as KWA, so it'll fit)

I wish I had a chance to look through them both, but the only place near me that sells optics is a real gun shop and their optics are a bit too pricey for what I'm looking for. I've heard good things about both Visionking and Vector Optics stuff, which is part of the reason I've looked at them. Honestly, the main reason I don't want to go Vortex is the price; the LPVOs that Vortex offer with a reticle that I like are £500 £330 at the cheapest with the new Venom series, which I think is still just about too much for me to spend on this one, and the larger scopes with the same requirements are outside my price range as well. Reticle type is very important for me, as I enjoy long distance airsoft archery, and a good reticle can really help if you set your gun up and know exactly where on the reticle you need to aim to hit those longer shots. Unfortunately, those ones listed don't quite meet the requirements I need. The Nikko 1-4x24 is close, but I don't like the reticle Hard requirements for me are: - Reticle I can use for longer shot archery - 1x minimum variable optic, as I will be taking this to CQB (because I'm crazy) as well as using it for woodland - Illuminated reticle as I will be taking it to night games as well (ties into why I also want 1x minimum) - LPVO aesthetic. I don't want a mid or long range looking optic as it would look a bit weird on this build - Low scope rings Maximum magnification isn't too much of an issue. I'd be okay with 4x, but ideally 6x or 8x as a maximum as I like to use my optics to spot targets and radio movements to my team. Doubt I'd be actually shooting with more than 4x or 5x. It's funny to me to think that my hard list of requirements is so strict on a gun that I won't actually be using all that much, but I think that's actually why. It's a backup gun that I will be using for times when my main guns are either not viable options or something has gone wrong. It's also why I don't want to spend too much and honestly I think that reason alone is why the Visionking one has been the front runner for me for so long. It's not that expensive and does everything I need it to.

Hey everyone, with an outdoor sale on Aliexpress coming up it's put me in a bit of a bind. I was pretty sure which LPVO I wanted, but at these sale prices it has thrown another into contention and now I can't decide, so I figured I'd ask others which one they would go for. The two I am stuck between are: Visionking 1-8x26 Vector Optics 1-6x24 It's going to be mounted on my m14 socom and I want to put it on some low scope rings as m14s are already quite high up when it comes to the sight vs the stock. The m14 socom is generally my backup gun and is my best performing AEG, but also my larger event gun, as GBBRs can be a bit of a pain at things like AI500 due to abundance of targets; I end up having to reload GBBRs a lot and it takes a lot of time out of my day of pews when there are hundreds of targets to shoot! I've weighed up the pros and cons of each and for me it basically comes down to this: Visionking 1-8x26 +Larger objective lens +Prefer the reticle a little bit +Cheaper +More zoom -No warranty -Less options for scope rings because 35mm is a pain in the arse Vector Optics 1-6x24 +Lifetime warranty +Easier to find good quality 30mm rings -More expensive The number of pros for the Visionking are more, but that lifetime warranty and more availability for good quality scope rings is pretty big. I can make do with 6x zoom over 8x zoom, so that's not a massive issue, but I do prefer the reticle and the slightly larger objective lens, so weighing it up I just can't quite make a decision. Interested to hear your thoughts on the two of them. Alternatively, if there are any others that you recommend, I'm all ears, but it has to be 1x min zoom, be illuminated and have a good reticle that I can use for longer range / windy shooting.

Ah, the classic HPA vs AEG debate... Personally, especially for a first gun, I'd just go with an AEG. HPA setups are really expensive as you're either paying £800 for an MTW, or you're paying £400+ for a HPA engine to stick into an AEG, so it's probably going to end up about £600 there with no guarantee it will work amazingly well. Then you need a tank, line and regulator so that's another £100+ to add in. I'd much rather pick up an AEG plus a ML hop rubber and nub for a fraction of the price. When people say that they have a 1fps variance on their HPA setups, firstly it's more than possible to do that with AEGs (probably for cheaper), and secondly that level of consistency is entirely unnecessary; not saying people are wrong for chasing it, but you absolutely don't need it to be competitive and hit consistent, accurate shots. At the end of the day, we're shooting plastic balls at each other that weigh less than half a gram and all the consistency in the world won't stop Mother Nature from deciding that your shots shouldn't hit at times. Trust me, as a long time bolt action rifle user I've seen more than a few shots veer off target because of a rogue twig or gust of wind £500 for a first gun is a lot, so you should be able to get something really nice. If you're interested in AR-15 SPR style rifles, I'd advise looking at the Cyma Platinum range. My friend has a cm097, which is an AR-15 SPR style rifle, and it's really good out of the box. Makes a fantastic platform to work on, but doesn't actually need that much to make it shoot really well. A Maple Leaf macaron hop rubber and an omega nub is all it really needs, but a nice 6.02 ZCI barrel can help with voluming and would easily fit into your budget. I'd spend the rest on load bearing gear, a nice sling, an optic, mags, an Odin speedloader, batteries, BBs etc. There's plenty of other things that you could get to make your life easier beyond just the gun, and this is all assuming you already have spent out on good eye protection and a good set of boots. If you do eventually go down the GBBR route (a great route to go down, but definitely not for everyone), it'll still be great to have a solid AEG as a backup rifle, just in case of issues or cold winter temperatures making gas far less efficient.

I was very happy to see it. I was already going to move towards primarily using guns with MEDs even with the old DMR limit of 1.64J, so I'll be happy to keep my m14 and MWS tuned up to 1.88J instead.

With the 2024 'Namsoft season coming up, I'm going to spend a few skirmish games using my 'Nam kit to see what I can get away with and get comfortable with the kit, as health problems prevented me from playing at any games last year so it's been a while... This means no ghillie, but doesn't mean no concealment tactics whatsoever, so £4 slightly coloured Aliexpress scrim net is great for covering up the m700. Will also have another scrim net in my kit to drape over myself and will attach some elastic bands for natural vegetation to further blend in. Might also swap this scrim net for a different coloured one as the other one I have to drape over myself is better colour shades for summer time. Along with my M56 belt kit set up for .308 mags, and TM 1911 or classical Ruger .22 converted AAP, we'll see what I can get away with against all those modern kits, ghillie suits and high cap magazines at skirmish days; if it works then, it'll work at the 'Nam games! I would run the mac11 as a sidearm (looks close enough to a mac10 with the chonk suppressor), but the filmsim rules means no full-auto for anything outside an LMG, so the 1911 or AAP work better as secondaries as they're easier to carry and the mac11's main strength is that brrrrrrrrrrrt fun switch. And no, I'm not a stitch counter and will never be one; I'm all about the BB wars itself. If it's mostly fine and passes the 10m "does it look period accurate" sight test, then it's fine for me. Not that people usually see me in game anyway, since my entire game plan is to remain hidden; last Vietnam game I played at I hit about half a dozen GIs with a 1911 from a bush and they still couldn't find me, despite the GBB action

Wearing a shemagh or scrim net can help guard the neck/jawline area if you wear it as a scarf. Or you can wear it like a headscarf and it'll protect pretty much everything, but at the risk of getting hotter and sweating more.