Airsoft-Ed

l have a handful of gay friends as well as a bi girlfriend and all of them call stuff gay as much as l do lol. l see it as just a word with multiple meanings. Sort of similar to how nob can be either penis or a door handle. lf l call someone gay l don't intend for them to read it as being insulted via their sexuality. Because what's insulting about being gay? Nothing! But more that gay is just another standard insult word as per stupid or lame for example.

Yup, I can attest to this as well. I had the Veteran wood version, it was kicking about 390fps out of the box. I fitted a Madbull 6.03 and ran .30s and I'm not joking when I say I don't think I missed all day. It's a shame I had it before starting the channel, would've made some epic videos. I only had a red dot on it, but if someone was unfortunate enough to end up with that reticle over them, they were gone with a single pull of the trigger. It was just moronic how far and how accurately it could shoot.

Toying with the idea of a new camera angle for the channel. To get this I had to butcher my comedy crossbow for the mount, which is far from stable enough to use in game... But I think it's done well enough to act as proof of concept. Looks pretty sweet I think, and in the videos with the bolt slamming about, as well as the noise from being right next to all the moving parts, I think it'll come out pretty good. Just need to perfect the angle and come up with a better way to mount it now, as well as actually acquire a camera more suited to being in that location.

The base gun isn't exactly well regarded and gas guns aren't that popular to begin with so that'll be why you're not seeing a lot of interest. Couple that with the fact most people aren't interested in upgrades you've fitted because they don't know your level of competency - for all they're aware the parts could've been fitted badly and cause the gun to be worse than it was before. Buying second hand is a gamble. lf people can't be sure what they're getting is going to be good for the money they're just not going to bother with it.

Aren't the WA2000s basically collectors rifles these days? I've only ever seen one and it was ancient. As for the other two, if they're the ones with realistic mag placement my advise would be to avoid them like the plague because they're the most insanely overpriced, unreliable piles of crapola in the known universe. Sniping you want something simple that's hard to screw up.

Yeah you can't change the focal point on any of the clone ACOGs. l've had them apart before to correct the canted angle of the reticle and there's nothing in there in the way of adjusting anything short of the zero.

Got to admit I was hovering over the ban button.

I don't follow? The most suitable what to use? Fusion Engine? Or fire selector set up? You can set P*s to semi only. And obviously you'd want the Fusion Engine that'll fit the body you choose for the gun. Fraser hasn't made build public in an open forum, but it's not a secret. He's posted the set up in the comments of his videos a handful of times.

Wish I'd seen this a lot earlier, I don't have the patience to read through it all now lol. The shortest explanation I can come up with is: Joule Creep is an observable phenomenon that occurs when you chrono a gun with a higher cylinder to barrel volume ratio on .2s to pass chrono, and then change to a heavier weight to play. So to break that down, it's important to understand that we don't actually chrono a gun for the fps reading, but the joules associated with that fps reading. The faster and heavier something is, the more joules. So fps limits are set because they put a cap on the max joules any gun on site ought to be putting out. So, with that in mind. Let's say you've got a gas rifle - long barrel, powered by expanding gas. On a .2, the shot is so light that it gets spat out using barely any of the power supplied at all. I'm just making these figures up to explain it, but for argument's sake, let's say a .2 is accelerated out of the gun so easily that the time it spends in the barrel only leaves it time to have about 40% of the propellant sent down the barrel applied to it. So now you've got 60% of that gun's power, shot to shot, just being wasted as surplus energy. It just comes out of the barrel after the shot and evaporates into the atmosphere. Now the gun is chrono safe, or so they say, so the user loads up .3s to play, because they offer better wind resistance, accuracy and range. This is where joule creep is dangerous. People think this gun is safe, because it passed chrono. But, it passed chrono on a .2. Adding more weight means that the 60% surplus power will now start to apply more of itself to the shots because it takes more energy to get them moving, they accelerate slower so they spend longer in the barrel. The gun is now shooting hot in joule terms, despite having an observably lower fps than before. Hence "creep" because the fps reading - should you chrono again to observe the fps drop or something - will be lower than before. But it won't be lower by as much as the conversion charts state, which means the joules will have actually increased, because the fps hasn't dropped by enough to balance it out. The failing of the conversion charts is that they assume the same power is being used for each shot and each weight, when in reality, the weigh loaded literally dictates how much power gets applied to the shot, by the length of time it spends in the barrel. The reason it's less apparent in AEGs is because they generally don't over volume unless the barrel is very short, and with short barrels, even heavier ammo isn't under enough concentrated pressure for long enough for it to gain a substantial amount of energy. Also, a spring powered piston doesn't behave the same as expanding gas. Air from a piston doesn't expand, so when it meets resistance from the BB being in the barrel, there's an air cushion between the piston head and the BB. The BB being there actually acts sort of like a brake for the piston, limiting how fast it can move. That's why AEGs sound different when they dry fire. Dry firing has the piston slapping the cylinder head with no resistance. Whereas when there's a BB in there, it hits home with a lot less force. Where as gas doesn't give much of a shit what's around it, it's expanding whether you like it or not.

Lots of bollocks in this thread. I'd say an M4 base is ideal, there are a lot of after market hop units that fit, the Fusion Engine can be installed with minimal effort and then you can make it look how you want as well as perform how you want. The Fusion Engine's strongest suit is that it's consistent to within 1fps and doesn't suffer a trigger response hit when you ramp the power up. Frankly, if you're blowing the best part of £700 on a Polarstar set up and you aren't making a DMR out of it, then you're just wasting the money. An AEG can cope with all other build types just as well, if you're looking for accuracy and range then P* blows everything non-HPA out of the water. HPA is all about the shot to shot consistency, if you're buying one to spam it like a pleb then you're doing it wrong. A mate of mine built a P* DMR using an AR base, he built the gun around the Fusion Engine rather than buying a base gun though. The thing's a fucking beast, puts spring snipers to utter shame. He's got some videos on YouTube, channel's called TheManCave I think. I'd link you but I'm on my phone. I would personally advise against an SR25 base, because they're a 7.62 platform they traditionally have either an extended V2 gearbox and a standard hop, or a standard gearbox and an extended hop. You can only get standard length V2 versions of the Fusion Engine, so you have to make up the rest of the space with the hop unit. Either by getting a dedicated long hop unit - the G&G SR25 one is the only one I'm aware of - or by modding a standard hop to fit the larger space. The former massively limits your hop unit options, whilst the latter opens you up to a world of arse pain with regard to making your modded unit properly air tight. So just using an M4 base, where you can fit the Fusion Engine and choose from a massive range of high end, after market hop units, makes it all a lot easier.

I still need to catch up on Supernatural. Cas is great.

I think you meant to call it "Dire-dre"

I set one up when I was at Uni because there wasn't one there yet. I just had to get evidence at least 12 people were interested, fill some committee positions and then present how it'd all work, as well as doing a risk assessment. The hard part was finding the people willing to fill the committee positions when they didn't know me lol. I ended up persuading some to just sign the form to say they'd be X position, just to get it all ratified, but promised them I'd just do everything myself. So I ended up running everything solo for the first year. 3/4 years on and it's doing really well.

Haha damn it

Should probably be in off topic... But l'm a mod so screw it haha. Tried to find an existing thread regarding the forums' obsession with him but couldn't find it. https://www.change.org/p/bank-of-england-ainsley-harriot-for-the-new-face-of-the-20-note?recruiter=70559708&utm_source=share_petition&utm_medium=facebook&utm_campaign=autopublish&utm_term=mob-xs-share_petition-no_msg&fb_ref=Default

I have one because they suit the British Army load out, when I bought it I was a very firm Sig P226 fan - because their ergonomics are amazing, all the features you'd want are all within reach of your thumb without you needing to shift your grip. However, I was sold on the Glock almost immediately because of more or less one thing. The grip angle. Before handling a Glock this was never something I'd given any thought to, but holding one made me realise it's quite an important feature. The Glock has a pretty darn steeply angled pistol grip, traditionally pistols are a lot more upright. My hand just suits the Glock angle a lot better, with Sigs and M1911s I find myself pointing the muzzle down a little because my hand and wrist wants to relax a little. The Glock is just natural point and shoot. Suits me perfectly. Moving on from that though, they're so simplistic. Function over form, keep it simple stupid etc. That's the Glock mentality I think. There's no safety, decocker, trigger's single action only. Makes the mechanism a lot simpler, fewer parts means fewer things to go wrong, easier to fix when they do, ease of use and popularity make parts easy to find. They're just great lol, I love the look too, personally. For all the people saying the grip is small, have you tried the larger back straps on the Gen4?

Only just saw this, but it says the video was removed by the user?

PM me your name lRL or l won't have any idea who to search for lol.

Not much l can do really. Apart from suggest you do the same lol.

I forgot about the elastic band thing haha, yeah that can work. The washers would be a hard one because there's no real space for them. Best thing would be to just mod the hop by drilling through the top of the gun and fitting a screw that you can screw into it from above that acts directly on the nub, but it's risky as it's hard to know you're drilling in the right place.

I used the white nub with mine, the black looked too stubby to really make much of a difference imo, I never even tried it. I got both that and the Systema rubber from Fire-Support, only place I know that stocks the Big Out nubs. Rubber was only £6 too, they're actually quite similar to stock rubbers in that they're very soft. Softer is better in the ICS because the hop unit is lame as balls, proper weak spring providing the down force so if the rubber's too hard you just can't get any hop because the unit can't push the rubber down.