Adolf Hamster

if the one's i've seen are anything to go by you don't even need to run- it won't fire anyway

what about a hydration bladder? balances out the rig and prevents dehydration

i've had guns with the f-mark and can't say i found it the biggest issue visually. i guess the problem is having to restrict yourself to manufacturers who can be bothered to add the mark and downgrade to the fps limits. as a note- if you're just target shooting indoors you don't need heavier ammo, heavier ammo is for preserving accuracy/extending range when dealing with windy outdoor conditions.

good to know, recently have a thing dispatched via ems and was wondering if the increased border attention would spill over to russian stuff.

see the part of my post saying "assuming it's a decent barrel" it's the sad truth of this hobby that even branded parts can be pretty terrible *cough*madbull*cough*

i've never attributed a notable fps change on an aeg from just the barrel itself, at least assuming that they're decent barrels in good clean condition and aren't damaged. i'd say its more likely what you're seeing is an improvement of air seal, either via changing the hop rubber, reseating everything during the swap, or the aftermarket barrels pushing the feedlips slightly back against the nozzle. in terms of voluming, aeg's tend to have a bit of lee-way, funny me and duck were discussing this in another thread recently. if you're for buying a new barrel to change, i'd say stick to the original length (or at least as close as you can get). the ZCI 6.02 stainless barrels are pretty damn good performers for the price, although for the premium end i'm still a sucker for a pdi 6.01.

jesus 650 big ones and it's not even ruined upgraded?

sounds like the bevel is too low, so you'll need to shim it up to get a better mesh (you may be limited by the requirements of the sector/idler) this is assuming the motor is positioned ok within the grip, never worked on one but i've heard the krytac stuff is extraordinarily picky when it comes to the motor positioning.

sounds like it's settling in a position where the cutoff lever is locking it up. does it have a mosfet fitted? if so then possibly one of the first things to check is if it has active brake or not. active brake on some guns (particularly ak's but can happen to m4's) can stop the system fast enough for it to be in a lockup position in semi. switching to auto disengages the COL which is why you can use that to clear it.

yeah that is definately way beyond the standard level of aftersales service you'd expect to find in airsoft.

that sounds like some excellent customer service from perun.

a very valid point. although a few of those are definately questionable lol.

that was my point, it's from chappie which has a bunch of guns painted up bright colours yet portrayed as real guns (wether they're airsoft, blankfire or real for filming purposes i've not bothered to check)

tried it with just the gears in the shell spinning by hand? also worth checking backlash, even a completely matched set of gears can sound bad if the box has them spaced slightly too far apart. other thing worth checking is the idler in particular can commonly not be flat, so whilst it might spin freely for part of its cycle it could bind at a single point.

in fairness, it's not just criminals, 3-gun has a fair amount of crazy colour schemes going on. it's a strange one, the whole vrca is based on joe public sees a gun and goes "that's a gun, imma call the police" but of course a totally bright yellow m4 had never been seen in popular culture portrayed as a real firearm.....

does sound about right. most of my volume adjusting shenanigans have been on hpa where it's stupid easy to adjust, although that's balanced by them being much more sensitive to such things.

good to know, i know voluming tends not to be as sensitive for aeg's but can never remember the forumula. any time i'm changing a cylinder it's always a rummage through the box o' bits followed by "that looks about right"

it's ok man, this place uses 100% recycled pixels

that reminds me i need more makarov mags thought i had 4 but apparently only 3.....

not too up on the cylinder types, but given it's the stock cylinder it'll be setup for the stock 200mm barrel. @Sitting Duck knows the cylinder types better than i do. accuracy/range is a 3 factor problem: -the velocity of the bb- you want this to be decently close to the site limit (5-10fps doesn't matter so much but an 0.8j gun on a 1.3j site is gonna struggle), and as consistent as possible so every bb is going the same speed- this is down to part ammo quality and a big part air seal -the quality of the ammo- you want heavier ammo for range, and good quality for consistency, how heavy is up to you (if you're rich enough to yeet .48's then go for it) although for outdoor use in an assault gun the .3g range is a pretty decent balance between cost/performance. if you're playing indoors this doesn't quite matter so much. -the quality of the hop/barrel setup. you're off to a good start with the zci, very good performance for the money, the hop you'll need both for air seal (linking back to the first point) and enough traction to lift heavier ammo (linking to the second point), my usual reccommendation is up to the .32 range the pdi w-hop is a nice straight drop-in, or the more premium option which will lift whatever you like is the maple leaf macaron with omega nub combo. often you don't need a new hop unit and a bit of twiddling can get everything flying straight. trigger response seperately can be acheived in a number of ways. i see that's got an optical mosfet, i'm guessing this is the titan clone negative airsoft mentioned in his latest video. don't know what it's specs are but if it has an option for precocking then you're laughing because that's the first and single biggest step for a snappier semi-auto trigger. things like high speed gears/motor swaps will boost the auto rate of fire, but won't be nearly as potent for semi response if the gun has a precock set up unless you're jerry miculek and can spam the trigger faster than the gun can cycle.

another option, depending on your barrel length, is you could consider short stroking by a tooth. you should be fine at 20rps with a full stroke but dropping a tooth will lower the fps and make it very slightly snappier. easiest way to check is if you have a ported cylinder- as long as there's enough stroke to clear the port then you won't have a voluming issue.

i wonder what specific feature makes it "high tech", or is it just a totally normal pump shotgun in a fancy dress edit: shoulda actually read the article before saying that lol.

that looks pretty damn good, it's more about having a nice smooth pickup and a good first tooth engagement compared to the "ermegerd must be 12:00 position addz moar sorbo" that gets touted far too frequently. generally the way i do it is with just the sector gear in the box (no col/tappet plate/spring) close the shell, push the piston all the way forward and hand-turn the sector to "feel" the pickup. much easier to do on v3 boxes admittedly. that is slightly further than i'm used to seeing, but if it ain't going far enough to catch then that's just how it is. if you were going to adjust the aoe then a thin (sub 1mm, maybe even 0.5mm) washer between the piston and the piston head would be the way i'd look at doing it. that's not the reason for short stroking though, that's a rate of fire thing. when firing the piston has to travel all that distance, which in a higher rate of fire build is the cause of pme when the sector can make a full rotation faster than the piston drops. a stronger spring will make the piston move faster, preventing pme although this will also have the effect of increasing the fps- which is limited. so if you short-stroke, the piston has less distance to travel, but the sector still has to do a full rotation. however the spring also doesn't get as much load, so your fps drops. however this means you can drop in a stronger spring, compensating for the fps drop and speeding up the piston. one downside is loss of volume, indicated in this case by the position of the port in the cylinder. you can short stroke up to this point and not suffer accuracy issues from lack of volume. of course this will depend on the barrel length of the gun, hence why speed builds tend to have shorter barrels. the other downside of course is that your gun is now loaded like a higher fps gun with a stronger spring, but you aren't getting a higher energy for all that wear and tear (although you are getting a snappier rate of fire)

adjustable springs are something that pop up occasionally, but usually a factory proprietary system. tbh they're not the greatest, it sounds like a great idea until you realise the reality that the adjustment has a nasty habit of backing itself off mid-game making the whole thing pointless. in terms of tuning a standard box, you have a few options. you can cut, but personally i'm not a fan of that option, but it's there nonetheless. the other option is bearing spring guides, and bearings in the pistons. generally you want at least one (on the spring guide) but if it's not a fast enough build where piston weight is a concern then a second on the piston can bump the fps up a little. you can also space the spring a little, although not by much, i've done it occasionally with some bushings (i wanna say hpa baja differential bushings was what i used), careful whatever your using doesn't interfere with the free motion of the piston because a lockup is gonna be a bad day for the gearbox. however, with all that said you don't need to get too close, whilst yes energy is important, the effective range of an airsoft gat is a multi-factor problem and things like ammo weight/quality, barrel quality, hop setup, compression etc are just as important as energy for good performance.