Adolf Hamster

I beleive @HuttArmouries on here does custom leatherwork?

if the goal is trigger response then the 2 things you want are pickup speed and precocking. precocking is all in the mosfet (depending on which version you have you may need to change, perun offer units but i'm more familiar with the gate stuff) and in terms of motors i'd say shs high torque at the budget end, or if you want to spend then a warhead standard. the problem with the likes of the 40k is as well as improving response time you're also getting a much higher rof and current draw. the other thing is to ensure things like shimming/aoe (note aoe=/=massive amount of sorbo) are well setup so everythings spinning free and easy.

does it do it if you let the hicap unwind a significant amount? ordinarily hicaps tend not to put that much pressure on, but it's not impossible.

the problem with that sort of thing is the consistency you're getting. if the same rounds that are going through the chrono are also going all over the place (ie no changes to the setup between chrono/range shot) then it really shouldn't be an airseal issue. you can get it with mags, if your testing on a half empty midcap or a hicap then go to test shoot on a stuffed midcap, the friction on the nozzle from the bb stack holds the nozzle back and gives temporary airseal issues.

"easy fix but i havent got the time" the only possible explanation, and it might sound a bit stupid, but how are you going about setting the hop? i've seen hops have dual "sweet spots" where if you start adjusting from off you get to the first spot with good hop, but if you keep adjusting eventually the combination of overspin/energy loss ends up at another point with what looks like about the right amount of spin but ends up with really crap consistency. possible if you're starting off with big adjustments maybe you're missing the first spot and hitting the second?

never got around to grabbing a kobra, went for it's steampunkier cousin the pk1 instead

why a fast rps? if it takes more than 1 hit at practical pistol engagement ranges then it's a failure of the target not the equipment.....

Thats impressive........

Hard to be sure, but if any combo can do it then its an ask 40k on 13:1

As a general rule i tend to avoid unit patches/insignia. It doesnt add anything to the game so why risk being disrespectful?

Yeah likely the connector is the bottleneck atm. Sadly a higher c battery wont help the wires overheating, possibly make that worse, although at least its more likely to handle the motor. Remember amp support is a factor of both the c rating and capacity, so lower capacity at a higher c rating aint necessarily more current.

Asg 40k has enough torque to be called "high torque" but its also very fast and very power hungry. If you increase the wiring gauge/replace the tamiya with an actual connector it might only acheive letting it draw enough to kill the fuse/battery

Nope, never got that far. Just the e&l and the dragonuv to go. Unless your an optics man?

Most folks selling items as boneyard tend to put either "boneyard" or "spares/repairs" in the title so shouldnt be the hardest to search for?

Sounds like mesh/shimming might be a tad off? If your running 7.4v then 22rps does sound about right, my krink build has the same setup (12:1 standard warhead) and puts out 18rps although granted its being fed with nuprol batteries. The thing with the warheads isnt the top end speed but the pickup, so whilst auto might not be much to write home about the semi response is fantastic if you have a ton of precocking. Edit- just seen thats 11.1v, yeah defo check the shimming/pinion mesh

Can confirm, they fixed the broken contact on mine even though i made no secret that it was me being heavy-handed. Damn good motors too, pickup speed is noticable even next to the likes of the asg cnc stuff.

I know, especially the sas wannabe's. I mean i've never even owned an mp5.......

Im going through the process of quitting the hobby, and pistols are easier sold than rifles. Want a we svd?

That you took that post more seriously than intended I was going to make a joke about regulating you specifically, for being crazy.....

Do you want the honest or political answer to that question?

Is it definately cycling back fully? Kinda sounds like she's not going far enough back to reset the knocker. The safety mechanism will lift the knocker, so possibly that's jamming? If you pull the slide on the left side at the rear there should be a sliding nub (the knocker reset) and the safety lifter arm sits around it. Can check to see if they're binding. If you can take a pic it'd really help remind me where everything is, i'd normally grab me own but i dont have me makarovs any more.

So the trigger won't release after the hammer has dropped? Hmmm, dont think i've met that one. The one ive seen more commonly is the transfer bar has a little spring that runs in a groove on the underside, if that spring isnt set in properly it'll not engage in the first place. Dissassembling the trigger unit isn't too bad, but getting it back together is a bit on the fiddly side....

^what he said No fun allowed.....

No idea, tbh a lot of airsoft pews tend not to really be serialised. Even e&l's im not sure if the serial number is a serial number or if its just to look like one.

Sadly in the court of public opinion a gun-shaped-object is a gun-shaped-object.