Adolf Hamster

protip: when testing for sound, you can initially leave out the top end (cylinder, piston, tappet etc) leaving just the gears (you can also remove the COL too) that'll give you just the gear noise to listen to without being drowned out by other noise.

yep, they're constant energy systems as opposed to constant force systems (ie your gbb's/hpa's) so outside the extremes it won't make significant difference. that's not to say it won't change, but that's typically when you have a system with suboptimal sealing that gets fixed incidental to the actual swapping of barrels like re-seating/replacing the hop bucking or reassembling the unit into the gun. ofc how much those gains may be will be hard to quantify for any given gun.

are they? for obvious reasons i've never price checked the latter my advice- don't question it.....

yep, that's textbook symptoms. worth trying geoffs, worst case is it works and now you have to buy the good stuff

So its binding on loading? I have found some ammo/mag combos the ammo isnt as smooth and the extra friction causes the stack to bind on firing (tapping can free it up) which is what got me onto using geoffs in the first place, even when loading they're noticably smoother.

that is damn good consistency. going back to the original post i realise you're mentioning ammo binding up in the mags? which brand? might be worth trying a bag of geoffs to see if that fixes the mag issue and possibly by extension the random fliers?

fair point, could be a remnant from the manufacturing process. does it have a sealing o-ring on it? generally that's my go-to reason for nozzle changes as that's a key area for leaking if it isn't there.

hmm, that's an odd type of cracking. that face is the one responsible for sealing with the bucking lips, so it wouldn't surprise me to see it putting out some intermittent leaking with that damage depending on how it lines up with the bucking on a given round. if it were me i'd change it.

once made a little tool for unloading a little from midcaps for this reason, used a bit of random steel but since found that an inner barrel is the perfect length. cut a ~2" section, drill a hole in the cut end and stick a pin/grub screw in there as a stopper. as for the general case of guns needing to "warm up" i've seen it happen but never really found a hard and fast reason why, my m4 pre-hpa conversion used to chrono stupid low (like barely able to lob a bb through the chrono low) in the mornings but once it had a few mags through it then rest of the day it'd be fine. best guess is that once the grease/seals warmed up from a few shots it'd start sealing properly although this doesn't explain why on a cold day it didn't happen again after lunchtime.

yeah, it's a difficult one to be absolutely sure given any manufacturer could potentially have a bad batch, but avoiding brands with the reputation is the best we can really aim for.

it is, but given this is a sport where people are coming with varying degrees of technical knowledge (ie don't know the dangers of mesh) why make yourself the person who could have them learn the hard way?

because the aim of this sport is to have fun, not hurt people.

if there's one thing this forum likes it's a good ol' debate

best? odin m12, the one bit of kit that could spoil a gameday merely by its absence. although if we're limiting it to guns then it'd be a tie between the WE makarov and the jg aksu, both might have had their foibles (makarov didn't like the cold and the jg was a bit lacking in the externals department) but damn if they weren't decent bb lobbers and fun to actually use. worst? hmm, tie between the cybergun 1911 and the we luger. the 1911 couldn't hit the broadside of a barn, assuming you managed to get it to work long enough to fire more than a couple of rounds that is, the luger at least worked, for a couple of rounds if the weather was nice, and at least shot in a straight line, for about 20 feet thanks to no hop....

as above it doesn't seem to be the "bio" aspect is the issue for shattering so much as the overall quality of the bb. there was a chap called gasman had a thread on here a while back where he tested a bunch of bb's and rated them, including crush testing them.

is it made of diamonds and does it crap rainbows? because if so i'm definitely interested! well said that man! that is the heart of the problem in one line right there.

oh for sure, the few times i've ran irons i haven't had too much trouble making awkward shots, and for sure i would not rank myself as any kind of expert marksman, or for that matter a particularly good marskman at all but it's defo easier to do when both the sighting system and rif are working in your favour.

A man can dream.....

Not hard at all, just a strip with the fps figures the site limit for each commonly available weight of ammo. No faffing around changing chrono settings just compare the raw fps figure with the corresponding weight. And having some bags of ammo handy as you say, wouldnt even need mags (the punters after all would have them handy) just a sample range of speedloaders. A single standard weight for double checking would do just fine for most guns (ie aeg's) so its not like you'd be using a lot of the heavier/more expensive ammo as that'd only be needed to check joule creep susceptable platforms. But that would take effort.....

that, in one image is is the reason why marshalling staff have to be the ones who understand how airsoft stuff works, because you can't rely on the players. i acknowledge that not everyone needs to know the in-depth physics behind how airsoft works in order to have a good time playing, but is isn't entirely unreasonable to expect at least some level of very very basic competency? like the ability to at least google the question? but then i suppose we're talking about a hobby where something as simple as "when you get hit by a bb, you raise your hand and walk to the respawn flag" is apparently beyond the grasp of some folk so i probably shouldn't be surprised.....

ftfy imo if you're gonna run magnified stacked is the way to go, although you'll probably find yourself using the dot for 99.9% of engagements anyway.

whilst you have a very valid point about the accuracy of site chronographs, and i absolutely agree that it's not ideal to be making decisions based on one machine that gets rough use (if in doubt use at least 2 different chrono's that provide the same reading). it's why you tend to see folk suggesting not to push to be exactly on the limit in case the site chrono over/under reads and you can't play. it's also why i take exception to the whole "ermagerd one shot out of 10 was 0.1fps over the limit, ban 'em, ban their mums, ban their kids unto the 7th generation" kind of site policy because unless they're using a superbly calibrated system they can't rightly claim that the reading was correct. however minor variability of a gun on a shot-shot let alone a day-day basis is very much the norm, indeed the purpose of many "upgrades" is specifically towards reducing that variation for the purpose of accuracy. you'd also generally expect variation to get worse rather than better over the long-term as parts wear/degrade. it's also worth considering that there's potential that one batch of bb's are a slightly different average weight/standard deviation to another batch, even when sticking to the same nominal weight and manufacturer, ofc the more premium ammo you'd expect less variation which is part of the cost factor in the quality control.

yep, best i've managed is trying to angle my head and use the blockaded optic like an oeg, which kinda sorta works and is only marginally slower than pulling a qd optic and just walking the rounds in the pk-1 says hi