Adolf Hamster

Tbf, the makarov is the opposite story, the we version of that is imo the best blowback option out there.

Cmon tm prove me wrong....

not the WE version, don't get me wrong i'm not one of those "all WE's are terrible" kinda folks, but the WE luger specifically is imo one of the worst airsoft pistols ever made from a skirmishability perspective.

the combination of horrific gas effeciency and no hop unit (not an exaggeration there is literally no component that functions as a hop unit) means you've got an effective range of maybe 20 feet for the 5-ish rounds it'll fire on a good day.

one better left for the re-enactment crowd.

end of an era

might have to go manual then, although noise reduction on an aeg isn't a topic i've spent much time on (due to hpa quiet=best quiet).

just use some piston shims that @ak2m4 sells?

aoe isn't a magic "for X gearbox type use Y distance" kinda thing, you need to be checking and if necessary adjusting on a per-gearbox basis.

good nothing went wrong, hard to see in the original pic if you'd peirced the hop or not...

ct25 is such a fun little gun, i even love the sound of it like popping a champagne cork

oooh, even worse if that's what i think it is gonna be fun getting spares....

oh god yes, there's always one damn branch in the way.....

yep, it's why i kinda gave up on throwables in general. vanishingly rare i'd get folks within the radius of my noodle arm throwing range whilst also having the time to draw, prep and throw without getting tagged in the process.

yeah it can be a tricky thing,

suppose tbf the fusion build wasn't exactly concerned with the motor engagement.

i've had some limited success with a grub screw through the alignment tab on the motor cage to put sideways tension on it, but that doesn't always help.

hmm, i'll admit there's only 1 aftermarket box i ever dealt with in an e&l shell and that was a fusion engine. from memory it needed wedged forward in the reciever although not by much.

i forgot you'd swapped the shell for a retro arms, that could be why it's getting fitment issues?

i mean it might take a bit of filing, but that's just the ak life

Is that from the ak definition of "fit" or the m4 definition?

Because the former states anything's possible with a hammer and duct tape

for the flash hider? i'd assume it's a case of the typical 14mm ccw thread with the adaptor to fit 74 pattern cw threads, e&l are noteworthy for actually casting the proper threads direct to the front sight block.

it's sadly one of those fitment issues that's all but impossible to really diagnose over the internet, you may well be right that you've got an unlucky qc fail in the receiver.

the outer barrel should sit as far back as it can go, but it might want to sit slightly forward of that position to get the hop bolted down, although in your case you seem to be getting the opposite problem.

generally i've found that they can be tight to get together, but that same tension keeps them solid once it's assembled. a qc issue is certainly plausible as with everything airsoft.

the gap between the top cover and the receiver is pretty normal, i wouldn't worry about that as long as it closes properly.

they can be wile tight to setup.

generally speaking i tend to go with: outer barrel to trunnion (but not tightened), gearbox into gun, selector onto gearbox, hop onto gearbox, hop onto outer barrel, grip onto gearbox.

the grip going last tries to pull the hop backwards, in turn pulling the inner barrel backwards, kinda the same effect as tensioning a v2 gearbox with the stock bolt.

e&l outer barrels are steel, but it doesn't sound like the hop unit is stuck to the outer but rather the inner.

penetrating oil for the outer might help, and if the grub screws are out you could try tapping the barrel forwards via the front sight block, not hitting it too hard obv but some taps with a plastic/copper hammer might be enough of a shock to dislodge it.

Oh dear.

Sure the outer barrel hasn't got a second sneaky grub screw?

I can imagine itd be near impossible to get a cu unit off the inner barrel whilst still in the reciever

What's up?

E&l+cu is a pretty potent combo?

blued steel.....

hard to say really.

the only work i've done with a non-standard shell in an e&l body was installing a v3 fusion engine, which took a little fettling.

i have worked on a retro arms box, although that was in an lct body, can't say i was particularly impressed with it, shiny yes but didn't seem to be practically any better than a stock casing.

Yeah thats about all you can do with the e&l original bolt, surprised its managed to fail.

Sadly cant really advise on the shells, all me e&l's were running original casings although one would presume your standard cyma pattern wouldnt be too far off (subject to usual airsoft compatibility)

how'd ye manage that? bloody impossible to get that much torque on thon headless bolt!