Skara

I recently picked up a helikon 2 points sling for €20 and while I have no experience with other RS slings, it doesn't feel cheap at all! In fact I might get one more for the AK, the thing is fairly heavy and some padding would definitely help. Mind you, €20 is cheaper than a ms3 clone and helikon doesn't make airsoft specific kit (read overpriced sweatshop shit). Worth a try I would say

I just can't wait for a proper no bollocks trade agreement with the eu so I can start buying stuff from you again -.- sourcing specific parts in here is getting ridiculously expensive -.-

brexit

Good boots don't have to be expensive, pick a pair that you feel really comfortable in. A good pair that doesn't fit will be as bad as a cheap pair that doesn't fit. Avoid online shopping and actually try some out. I say the single most important thing you shouldn't be afraid to spend on is eyepro. Too often I see people with €500+ guns that then run on cheap shit eyepro that isn't rated for anything but the slightest breeze. Luckily for you, your armed forces are issued Revision Sawflys which can be bought 2nd hand (but unused) for dirt cheap (€30 on average, idk what's the equivalent on quid, 25? I paid €30 for mine + €15/20 postage to italy).

WEs for standard, I still say WE for extended. My AW extended didn't fare well the last time... okay it was pretty cold and I was using GG but fuck's sake a complete fill lasted 10 shots -.- meanwhile the standard WE mags ran flawlessly all day

300 quid including accessories? Also, M4, AK or any other platform you like?

Yep, I'm running a MR 50° but I didn't phrase it right. What I meant is: will it hop 0.32s at 24 rps without acting funny? I also need some high caps (because reloading every once in a while is fun), but from what I've seen mp5 high caps are a bit shit.

Fucking bang on. Ran flawlessly throughout the day. Very pleased with it, just need to test if it can lift 0.32s.

If I run my smersh I have all the mags on my left and counter balance with a bag of BBs on the right pouches. I typically don't do the fancy hand switching "weak side" shooting anymore, so I have virtually no need to keep mags on my right side. When I run my chest rigs I do have 1/2 mags on the right and they are the first ones to be "used" when the game's over or when I have plenty of time to reload, I like to keep my belt mag and the 1st on the left for "emergency" reloads as they are naturally the quickest and easiest ones to access in a pinch. Either way, personal preference really. Back in the day when I had one of those super cheap vests with mag pouches on the right, it was a bitch to reload as I had to: a) cross draw mags and b) have fun getting G36 mags out of single stack M4 pouches

Magwells seem to be an issue for people running HPA taps or drum mags, most people just don't use them. If it's a small amount of material that needs to be removed, I'd say go ahead and dremel the crap out of it (magwell, wouldn't touch the adapter).

One EPG-C in FDE for my 933 One EPG-C in black for my other Specna Emperion as always being top notch

Finger, this is piston. Piston, this is finger *now kiss* Pretty much what happened, the crime scene was the rear cutout section of the box.

This. Can't stress enough the importance of testing kit on the field. I honestly like it, pretty minimalist (almost speedsoft-y which is always good) I'd just swap the black pouches with something either green or multicam (but that's me hating on black kit). give it a run as soon as you're allowed to play and make changes accordingly

I give up. Shimmed for the SHS motor and A2 grip, put the gun back together and installed the zci motor by mistake. Fucking bang on (the adjustment screw is just a smidge from rotating freely). What the fuck. Aight, imma keep it this way, in the meantime I managed to get my ring finger caught by the piston while testing (don't ask how, because I legit have no clue) so now the gearbox is lubricated with blood This gun is cursed, it's probably going to kill me in my sleep someday..

A nice reminder that I should actually program mine as of now I only use it for AB/battery protection

Nevermind, there was some crap stuck in a bearing I've officially reverted back to the stock KA gearbox, whenever my PTS grips arrive I'll test the ZCI motor in my specnas and use the SHS HT in this one with the stock grip. I might even get a game day with the thing before retiring

I think it's the bevel... Can I swap it with a different one or will it fuck the ratio?

So, smol update. Since I have bought them PTS (genuine ones, not clones since they were just as expensive lol) grips I transferred one of the stock specna A2s on this gearbox.. ZCI motor still sits too high, SHS motor sits fine, can be adjusted, but the box is grindy as fuck (most likely because the bevel is super high, or because the gears are fucked or something is wrong with this new box). At this point I will proceed in this order: 1) reshim (spur first) to accept a SHS HT and use the zci in one of the specnas, probably the 933; 2) revert back to the stock KA gearbox and keep this 8mm one as a spare. Shame, as I thought it would work

shit I need one

Fixed power all day!! Switched from a VisionKing short dot to a cheapy 4x40 on my VSR and it's a world of difference

no that is deliberately cheating the chrono on those sites that only chrono on fps (or m/s) on 0.2s.. Joule Creep is about the (whoever has some education in science please don't read) process of energy transfer that happens inside our guns. What happens is that there is only a very limited space (the barrel) in which the system can transfer its energy to the BB. A lighter BB will receive a higher "initial" amount of energy but it leaves the barrel so quickly the system doesn't transfer much energy, whereas a heavier BB that will stay in the barrel for longer will receive way more energy. (you now have autism and won an extra chromosome, but don't blame me, I warned you) At least that's my understanding of JC

In my testing I have found that a lighter piston actually increases Joule Creep, at least it does on my build. A heavier piston only killed the energy output with 0.2s but the Joules on 0.4s stayed the same Either way, 15 fps is roughly 3 m/s deviation, which per se isn't too bad but as a sniper you want all the consistency you can get to have repeatable shots. Check each individual "step" in air seal: Piston head to cylinder; Cylinder to Cylinder head; Nozzle (on top of the cylinder head) to hop rubber lips; Hop rubber to barrel. The first two are easy to check, with just the cylinder in the receiver (so everything else, stock, barrel removed) cock it, press your finger on the nozzle and pull the trigger, the piston head (where the o-ring sits) should travel just past the port and stop, being held back by the compressed air inside the "closed" portion of the cylinder. If it doesn't, there is a possible air leak around the piston head o-ring or the cylinder head. Use proper lubricant and not PTFE, please. Nozzle to hop rubber lips: gun upside down, place a piece of tissue paper where the bb feed hole is and fire a shot, if it flies away it means that there's air escaping from the rubber's feed lips. Either replace the hop rubber or wrap (and then superglue) a small portion of heat shrink around the nozzle end. Hop rubber to barrel: hardest to test, it's always good to wrap PTFE where the rubber overlaps the barrel. Some people wrap until the bottom channel of the barrel is covered (so say 3-4 centimetres from the end of the rubber). The hop chamber will compress the PTFE enhancing the seal, don't overdo it or you won't be able to close the chamber anymore. Some hop rubbers, like the Maple Leaf MR-Hop, are known for not giving good air seal (GBB/VSR version only, the AEG version is super air tight), but in my experience with them the leak is so consistent that it becomes irrelevant. Once you sort these things out the fps deviation will drop considerably and test the seal with the gun fully assembled (by doing test n.1 but with your finger over the inner barrel this time). I've read of people getting less than 5 fps in deviation in some cases and it's pretty impressive tbf, given the shit tolerances of our toys..