Rogerborg

Only £185 to perhaps get a working, used, ratty example of £165 worth of brand new gnu + sight + case. Everything we've come to expect from "selling for a mate" flippers.

Sure, although that's a lot to drop on a plastic CYMA. I have a CM5xx, it's solid internally, but given the toytown plastics, I wouldn't spent much on it. It's more of a great starter/backup gun, or for trying out things like the grub screw method. The easiest and cheapest way to get an easier trigger pull is this... No, bear with me: middle finger trigger pull used to be taught by the FBI and police academies for "point shooting" with revolvers. There are solid arguments against it in real steel - weak grip, harder to maintain trigger discipline - which don't apply to airsoft AEGs. I'm a natural airsoft middle fingerer, and would recommend giving it a try.

This thread really needs pictures.

I'd avoid the low end CYMA CM5xx M4s. While the internals are fine, the plastic feels (and is) really cheap. When I say I have no regrets about getting one, it's more because it was a decent base to play around with internally and externally, and it's still in the backup-backup bag as a last-resort gun. As far as I'm aware, there isn't a bad budget G36. They all have a rotary hop unit, the length is fine for CQB or woodland, and I really like the ergonomics. The only downside is that the battery space isn't great, but it's not really a problem either: I run ~1400mAh block batteries and always change at lunch anyway. You can run G36 mags, or with a ~£10 magwell adaptor, it'll take M4 / STANAG mags instead. I'm happy with my Jing Gong G36C, it's my my go-to now. Based on a disassembly video, the CYMA looks essentially identical, and CYMA V3 gearboxen (as used in their AKs) are well regarded. That said, PatrolBase have an "Evolution Airsoft" for £10 more which has a microswitch (meh) and a quick change spring (nice). That's more of an unknown brand though. Might be worth a punt, you might want to stick with CYMA, but either way, I'd recommend it as a platform.

Well, I now generally play with a non-realistic fantasy lasergun, so there's that.

What would you like to achieve with the CYMA that it's not doing now? Do you want to run it as a DMR? True, they're not the best motors, but CYMAs sold in the US and EU tend to come meatier than in the UK. TaiwanGun, for example, reckons about 1.5J for the CM0.32... although GunFire says ~340fps / 1.1J, so, eh, who knows. Just noting that as an aside, I agree with the assessment that it's not like chucking a new spring into a Specna Arms M4.

It what I did, and I have no regrets. Actually, while I bought a two-tone, after a careful reading of the wording of the legislation, I've never played with one. Oh noes, is this going to be come a "wut starter gnu?" thread.

He's literally told buyers where to get them. https://airsofteire.com/ have the gun and mags in stock. Granted, it'll cost you £722 + shipping for the gun + mags, but I'd rather pay less for a new-as-new gun than spooge on the Magpul furniture. Still, as you say, if you have to have all that, and have it now, it's... well, it's for sale.

Ahoy and welcome. Mayyyybe. Going to lipo made a big difference to my CYMA AEP. They do actually work, and will put 0.2g far enough for most CQB site. The trigger response is never going to be as good as gas or a decent electric rifle though, so you're playing in Hard Mode. Waiting for your membership / UKARA is a good opportunity to blag a go on other guns - if you were at my local struggling with an AEP I'd take pity on you and throw a spare AEG your way.

Theoretical practical shooting.

Bingo. The best you can say is that he's shilling random plastic from both Evike and Amazon. Push off, there's a good grifter.

Thrown my tuppence in.

That was an excellent explanation, but the tl;dr version is: don't worry about it. Even the semi-auto reset position will be effected by battery voltage and amp supply, how cold the spring and how viscous the gearbox lube is, and whether you're dry firing, or actually shooting BBs to provide some back-pressure. That last one in particular is why it's not worth trying to "tune" for a perfect nozzle position unless you're doing it by shooting the BBs you intend to use with the hop set for them, and pulling the mag repeatedly. Airsoft is an inexact science, and while trick mosfets can give you a little more consistency, you really don't need them. If it cycles and shoots most of the time, it's good.

Yup, I spotted that. Presumably because it's the bestest motor evarrrrr! With a ~£30 Big Dragon M140 and 11.1V, I can shoot at 1.2J at the very limit of where a mag can keep up. That also strikes me when I watch some of Negative Luke's recent builds going braaaaap. "Nice, right?" Well, sure, dry firing. Now put a mag in, and let's see it putting BBs downrange at that rate without misfeeds.

Ahoy and welcome.

Using the @Cr0-Magnon strategy: "It's vintage".

'ow much? For a Krytac with a spring change, Titan and Warhead? Maybe a radiused gearbox. Not even a custom safe/semi only physical fire selector. How funny would it be to buy that, then rock up to your local site or a milsim and be told "No 5.56mm DMRs, mate, needs to be a real steel DMR calibre to shoot more than 350, mate."

Please do tell us more about what you're selling.

Well, hello and welcome.

Yup. The biggest regrets are always the things you said "No" to. Well, maybe not saying "No" to a personal workout session with Purple Aki.

Leave it, Rog, walk away. Don't go full pedantard right off the bat... reel him in... slowly... slowwwwwly...

You could strip the wires back - one at a time, and being very careful not to let them touch - and wire them into a mini-Tamiya female connector: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230965619320 However, that's assuming that you have a charger that will charge that nicad, and that it will still hold a charge. It wouldn't really be usable on a game day, I'd suggest doing this only if you want to check if the gun still works. If you want to get something actually usable, I've posted some links here:

Keeping it as simple as possible: That nickel battery should go into a battery recycling bin. The simplest and cheapest combination of battery and charger that will work for you is: Something like https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1300mah-30c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-battery.html - although you will have to check the battery dimensions, I don't know how much space is available in an AUG. The important thing is that it's 7.4V lipo, with an airsoft mini-Tamiya connector. + https://www.componentshop.co.uk/700ma-charger-for-1s-to-3s-3-7-7-4-11-1v-li-po-and-life-battery-packs.html I stress that's the minimum charger you'll need, not what I'd recommend. If you're intending to stick with airsoft, the minimum I'd recommend, for a bit more including postage, is: https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/product/toolkitrc-m4ac-compact-charger/ with an XT60 connector and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265932645470 XT60 female to mini-Tamiya male.