Rogerborg

/thread. AEPs do work, and with a 7.4V lipo (and mosfet) the response and ROF isn't awful. But you'll see under 0.5J, and while you can put in stronger springs, there's only a tiny cylinder volume to work with. I find that an SMG or small carbine using a full size V2/V3 gearbox offers far more capability than an AEP, and I run my MP5K about 50/50 with my BASR. That said, a GBB pistol is great fun. It depends on weather and site.

Looks like they are fixable, you "just" need to "upgrade" some of the Silverback parts and solutions to worse ones. And yes, they're one of the least gopping and heretical bullpups around, relatively speaking.

I think that's a bit cynical, even for my motto. The Glennies of this hobby-sport tend to list their fraudulent wares accurately, in order to attract more mugs.

The same replies as for the Specna. They're both generic, both CYMA-de-facto-standard-ish compatible. In fact, the DE doesn't have the question marks over its gearbox shell that the Specna does. Same caveat too, the DE fire control system has some decent features, but I don't think it has active brake, so you may experience double-shooting on semi (or you may not, it's entirely down to how everything works out inside your specific example. I guess it's time for this again.

[Chortle, snort] I posted that before spotting that the fix is to install a CYMA bevel gear. Silverback managed to design and make a specific gear that fits less well than a generic one. The mind boggles.

Like, ordering pineapple and anchovy pizza? Sorry to hear that you didn't get to play, but sometimes just a range day and watching some other mugs slog up and down a hill can be rewarding. We're doing simulated war crimes now? ? Ah, I see you're a sidearm man of culture too. Love mine as a sniper secondary.

Love me 3-points, simple as. Very much depends on the gnu though, where the sling mounts are, and where it naturally sits and balanced at rest. I find they work very well on an MP5K or G36C, not so much on an AR. But then, you can use it as a 2-point if that works better. Plus, it's more stuff to fiddle around with, which is half the fun. Bungies can get bent, simple two pointers work just fine.

Really? Luke's point is that airsofters don't read instructions, and don't put things together on benches. That wiring pinch point is awful design, and an accident waiting to happen. That you've heard of. Yet. On a brand new gun. That's really not a problem? We're just ignoring that damage to the gears that we can see has already occurred? Silverback will only revise the bevel gear if they sell enough of these shagged units to pay for more development. At a minimum they should be sending a new gear to any owner that asks. Eh, well, it's only five hundred and sixty pounds (and upwards), you can't expect CYMA levels of engineering. ?

Aren't those half that price new (and working)?

Indeed, that's 512/1024" or 768/1024" in proper binary-analogue money.

Can't speak to that one, it's way above my pay grade. Just checking, you've put voltage directly across the motor terminals from the battery? Is there any sign of why it's not working? Brush wiring can come loose.

True dat. I keep saying it, a pure Chinesium Big Dragon M140, 11.1V, stock gears and a Perun AB++, and my G36C will burst fire right on the limit of what the mag can feed, and the pre-cocked semi-auto response is determined by the vagaries of the V3 trigger. I could spend another £150 or more on it for zero extra usable performance.

The only thing I'd do to the gun is clean the barrel with some isopropyl alcohol on a swab - hopefully you got a cleaning/unjamming rod with it.

Sure, it's possible, Specnas are generic enough. If you short stroke, you'll also probably want to put a springier spring in to maintain power. Running on 11.1V, you may experience double shooting on semi, which can be cured by spending less on 7.4V, or more on a mosfet with active braking. Luke at Negative just put up a piece on the whys and hows of short stroking. I'm not 100% sure that I agree with his wording on the whys, but he certainly knows his hows. I

The Depot does (or did) calendar months just because it was simpler for them to look back at your first day and say "same date, plus 2 months". But with 2 months always being longer than 8 weeks, and them only running every 2 weeks, in practice that meant a 10 week minimum. The blank stare when I tried to explain that... ?

Great to hear it. 1J is fine for woodland, it's more about consistency than theoretical maximum range. And yes, teching can be fun just on its own merits. Although it's always best to have a backup gun to hand before you open a gearbox, in case you find yourself with parts missing or "spare" afterwards.

You've pulled, get your plate carrier. Ahoy, welcome, and apologies for the UKARA rabbithole. Yes, a minimum of three games at the same site, over a minimum of 8 weeks (although some sites go with 2 calendar months, and some after 2 calendar months, so it can end up being more like 9 to 11 weeks) in order to get membership and a magic number. It is primarily recording site membership though, so it's entirely up to each site, and always worth asking. CQB and woodland are indeed quite different. CQB tends to be more intense with quicker respawns, and more and hurtier hits. Woodland can be more crafty, although you can spend 10 minutes stalking to the perfect position only to get lit up like a Christmas tree by a rental in trackies. Both can be fun. And yes, teching is intriguing, although can be frustrating as there are no real standards in airsoft, just de facto compatibility. Working on the barrel, hop unit (rotary tend to be better than dial), rubber and nub as a unit is a good start, as worse case you can always swap the stock unit right back in if your fUlLy uPgRaDeD gun is dribbling balls out on the day.

Too many is just enough.

It's really whether you can find a buyer. I mean, you could ask for a pack of Haribo and a reach-around and still not find anyone wanting to touch it (the Haribo, I mean). Have you stuck it up in other classifieds too?

I always remember what my dad told me "If it has tits, wheels, or a hop unit, you can't afford it, son." Yes, dopamine farming on social media is addictive as hell, and deliberately so. Billions have been spent to make it that way. All the best to your mate, I hope he digs himself out of that hole. Eyepro, boots and one gun is all you need to keep to have a great day.

Not a clue, bustin' makes me feel sad. I'd be surprised if there is a typical "market price" for a niche example of a niche gun in a niche hobby. What I would suggest is detailing whatever would be needed to make it shootable again, and the price/availability for that. Would you be better off spending the extra, and then selling it as usable?

If it were in stock, which it doesn't seem to be. However, if it were in stock, you could get it for £180. But you can't. Looks like it's a seller's market, as long as they can find a buyer for a Frankengun that only existed for 5 minutes.

100%. The reality is that Adjutant ADHD is going to prematurely ejaculate his balls once he's in the game zone. Shouldn't happen, will happen. So get him to the spawn and start playing.

I lolled, but I've just bought one of those, in (CURRENT_YEAR - 1). Granted, in black, not flare-gun orange. They're as bad as you'd expect from something loved by BBgnuz4Uz.

Go for it, just don't be surprised if it double-shoots on semi when sprung for 1.1J - I doubt it's got any sort of active-brake. Although as it's already wired for one, if you get on with it you could treat it to something like a Perun AB++ and get all sorts of tricks out of it. I'm loving my JG G36C on 11.1V, Big Dragon M140, and 3 round bursts.