Rogerborg

Ahoy and welcome. Mayyyybe. Going to lipo made a big difference to my CYMA AEP. They do actually work, and will put 0.2g far enough for most CQB site. The trigger response is never going to be as good as gas or a decent electric rifle though, so you're playing in Hard Mode. Waiting for your membership / UKARA is a good opportunity to blag a go on other guns - if you were at my local struggling with an AEP I'd take pity on you and throw a spare AEG your way.

Theoretical practical shooting.

Bingo. The best you can say is that he's shilling random plastic from both Evike and Amazon. Push off, there's a good grifter.

Thrown my tuppence in.

That was an excellent explanation, but the tl;dr version is: don't worry about it. Even the semi-auto reset position will be effected by battery voltage and amp supply, how cold the spring and how viscous the gearbox lube is, and whether you're dry firing, or actually shooting BBs to provide some back-pressure. That last one in particular is why it's not worth trying to "tune" for a perfect nozzle position unless you're doing it by shooting the BBs you intend to use with the hop set for them, and pulling the mag repeatedly. Airsoft is an inexact science, and while trick mosfets can give you a little more consistency, you really don't need them. If it cycles and shoots most of the time, it's good.

Yup, I spotted that. Presumably because it's the bestest motor evarrrrr! With a ~£30 Big Dragon M140 and 11.1V, I can shoot at 1.2J at the very limit of where a mag can keep up. That also strikes me when I watch some of Negative Luke's recent builds going braaaaap. "Nice, right?" Well, sure, dry firing. Now put a mag in, and let's see it putting BBs downrange at that rate without misfeeds.

Ahoy and welcome.

Using the @Cr0-Magnon strategy: "It's vintage".

'ow much? For a Krytac with a spring change, Titan and Warhead? Maybe a radiused gearbox. Not even a custom safe/semi only physical fire selector. How funny would it be to buy that, then rock up to your local site or a milsim and be told "No 5.56mm DMRs, mate, needs to be a real steel DMR calibre to shoot more than 350, mate."

Please do tell us more about what you're selling.

Well, hello and welcome.

Yup. The biggest regrets are always the things you said "No" to. Well, maybe not saying "No" to a personal workout session with Purple Aki.

Leave it, Rog, walk away. Don't go full pedantard right off the bat... reel him in... slowly... slowwwwwly...

You could strip the wires back - one at a time, and being very careful not to let them touch - and wire them into a mini-Tamiya female connector: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230965619320 However, that's assuming that you have a charger that will charge that nicad, and that it will still hold a charge. It wouldn't really be usable on a game day, I'd suggest doing this only if you want to check if the gun still works. If you want to get something actually usable, I've posted some links here:

Keeping it as simple as possible: That nickel battery should go into a battery recycling bin. The simplest and cheapest combination of battery and charger that will work for you is: Something like https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-1300mah-30c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-lipo-battery.html - although you will have to check the battery dimensions, I don't know how much space is available in an AUG. The important thing is that it's 7.4V lipo, with an airsoft mini-Tamiya connector. + https://www.componentshop.co.uk/700ma-charger-for-1s-to-3s-3-7-7-4-11-1v-li-po-and-life-battery-packs.html I stress that's the minimum charger you'll need, not what I'd recommend. If you're intending to stick with airsoft, the minimum I'd recommend, for a bit more including postage, is: https://www.unmannedtechshop.co.uk/product/toolkitrc-m4ac-compact-charger/ with an XT60 connector and https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265932645470 XT60 female to mini-Tamiya male.

"Posted August 4, 2020"

I tried Players of War again today. Ehhhhhh. Generally fair play, but it had all the usual airsoft foibles. A site that's too big leading to low density play and long walks to respawns (generally ignored), voluntary chronoing, no chronoing or test shots in game, marshals standing in clumps bantering, player-marshals doing all playing and no marshalling, no advice or support for new players, briefings that turned into pointless lectures, poorly thought out and controlled games that were either grinding attrition matches or over in seconds, and too many Lord Flashheart wannabes among the regulars for my tastes. Did I enjoy myself? Sure, laughs were had. Am I making allowances for it being their last game of the year, and a "school's out" attitude among the marshals? A bit. Will I be back? Doubtful.

Opinions vary (a lot) but a Big Dragon M140 motor, 11.1V battery, and a ~£45 Perun AB++ (already wired for Deans) does everything I need and more. Pre-cock/anti-brake, burst mode, and even with standard Jing Gong G36 gears it fires faster than the mag can keep up. I'm actually minded to use the rate of fire reduction to dial it down a bit. You can spend more on optical mosfets and messing around with the gears, but it seems that a half decent motor, driven hard enough, is all that you really need to get near-wankegun performance.

I bought a batch of KILO9 green BBs a while back, they were unusable, being so undersized that they wouldn't hop at all - I was convinced that all my guns had suddenly developed hop problems.

No problem, and none of these are stupid questions. We've all had to learn this one way or another.

Also completely normal. Notionally you can get more consistency by using a smart mosfet that applies aggressive active braking or pre-cock but in practice, the gears are going to stop where the gears are going to stop. As long as you're getting one shot per trigger pull (on semi, after the first dry fire) then it's fine.

If you reeeeeeally want those trademarked grips, then I guess a used example is worth £60-£80 more than a new untraded one, right? I mean, how else are people meant to know that your toy is a pretend copy of a real gun, rather than a pretend copy of a pretend gun?

Just that we assumed from your excellent English that you were in the UK with our 2.5J / 1.3J auto limits. We have very different ideas on what constitutes "cheaper end" No idea, they do claim to have short stroked 13:1 gear in other models, and a decent neodymium motor in the AT-NY06 so on 11.1V it could very well have prematurely engaged. Alternatively it was just one of those freak incidents where the spring ended up fully compressed and the motor stalled out and couldn't pull it further - although with that motor and 11.1V that doesn't seem likely.

Or older ones!

Probably not. Too much voltage can get you overspin and double-shooting on semi though.