Rogerborg

Well, it's got that "actually exists and is for sale" premium on it. Plenty of places are looking pretty thin on stock at the moment.

"i have never fired it. i dont know if the previous owner had used it or not i cant remember, bought it 8 years ago. as far as i know it is in full working order when it was sold to me" = "almost certainly not working now"

That's not an Uzi, that's a phased plasma rifle in the 40 Watt range.

When Luke at Negative Airsoft got to the end of his VFC MP7 build and said "Put this technology inside an Uzi", I howled in agreement. Please make it happen.

I guess if you find a buyer who gasps "That's exactly what I've always dreamed of! But can't be bothered spending 20 minutes fitting myself!" then you're quids in. It's pretty optimistic though. Tru dat. I'm currently turning a CYMA CM.123 AEP (target market likely 0) into a WH40K laspistol. In the unlikely event that I can be bothered to do a good enough job, I might be able to flog it on Etsy to a cosplayer who doesn't care if it pews or not. But in the airsoft world, the target market is 1, me. Don't let your dreams be memes, but don't plan your retirement on them either.

That's far from the worst paint job I've seen. The issue is that people pay for gnus to be customised to their specification. He's expecting someone to pay for his enjoyment.

Aside, how do you chrono a tri-shot? The Depot doesn't, they've waved me through several times, with variants of "Sod that, we've never seen a springer come close to 350fps anyway". Put one BB in since each piston is separate?

Huh, so they do. That actually makes for a pretty compelling package: https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/specna-arms-sa-h20-edge-2-0-aeg-rifle?pv=13217 But at £200, not at £350 plus fees for adding a bunch of stuff that you may or may not want, and subtracting the warranty.

It's actually sad when folk list as a bundle, as though they're likely to find a buyer for them. OK, in this case he's also listed individual prices, but it's still a poor way to get sales. And yes, those look like retail prices. Oh, look, all "brand new in box yet to be used". What, even the 416 with a Gate Aster fitted? 🤨 Ooh, two broken mags, and for only full retail price!

To grift a profit on it, it seems. £280 including postage (plus whatever PayPal fees he slaps on the top) for something that can be had for under £180 delivered from bbguns4less (with 7% 'secret' discount), if they had it in stock. Which they don't, so he does have a fair point. It's a case of how much you want one, and where else you could get it. Cheeky fecker listing it as new though. Sites shouldn't even allow this. "Didn't work last time I used or" or "Worked last time I used it" should be the categories.

Jesus wept, I mean, if they were punting it on for postage cost with a mag, maybe. But £35 for plastic spares, no thank you, I'll pass on that even if I have become a bit P90-curious recently.

Is it ineffective now? Can you clarify exactly what you mean by that? Are there side-to-side flex? Excessive slack before you get any tension on it? Does it not fire consistently when you pull it? Well, there's a can of worms. If you just want a bit more than stock, I'd go with a motor like this: https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/motors-parts/gp-16tpa-motor-long running on a 7.4V lipo. But many, many other options and opinions are available. You can go with a high speed motor, you can change the gears, but as above, once you open the gearbox, you can find yourself with no working gun pretty quickly. Without opening the gearbox, you can fit a tighter bore barrel which might (hop rubber and air seal allowing) give you a boost. ZCI offer good value for money, although the range is limited just now because of shipping issues. Fortunately, AK2M4 has just got some back in stock, https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels?manufacturer_filter=15 and I believe (but check yourself!) that your stock barrel is 229mm. Now, you can go longer as you have a suppressor, but you won't necessarily get any more power or accuracy from it. Really, no joke, barrel length just isn't that important in airsoft. Anything over 200mm is good for getting 350fps - I just got 374fps from a 229mm ZCI barrel, an M100 spring and a good air seal, and had to go down to an M90 spring to get it down to 340fps. I fit 50 or 60 degree Maple Leaf hop rubbers, but cheaper ones work as well. The best thing you can do for reliability is to not open the gearbox. If you do, I'd radius the front of the gearbox. You can also fit a sorbo pad, although I don't bother. Both are shown here: Once you're in there, you'll want to check the piston air seal and lube and/or stretch and/or replace the piston o-ring: YouTube and Google will help with that. You can also wire it for a mosfet while you're in there, which is a whole topic to itself. The only real reasons to go in there for maintenance purposes though are: check and improve the air seal if your fps is way down and you can't sort it from outside the gearbox; or if you suspect that your trigger contacts are badly worn and need replaced. Really though: if it ain't broke, don't fix it, or at least not until you have a working backup gun. What I did on my MP5K was to fit a very small rubber o-ring onto the fire selector, to pull the other side tight against the casing and engage it in the detents. I'm not sure what size, maybe 3mm ID x 1mm, I just pulled it from a box of assorted o-rings. The other thing that MP5s suffer from is sloppy hop units. I'm not sure if yours is set with rotating lever on top of it, or a foward-and-backwards slide. Either way, they're prone to moving: If you have a lever with that issue, I'd shim it out to make it a tight interference fit, or (quite seriously) get it set then tape it in place. If you have a slide-style adjuster, put a ruber O-ring around both it and the barrel, or cable tie it to the barrel, in order to hold it in place. And I'll say it again for luck: motor, barrel, hop rubber first. I would not open the gearbox until you have a backup gun ready.

I prefer it. You get a stronger and more direct pull, and can "point shoot", literally pointing your index finger at your doomed victim. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Point_shooting It was taught as a technique into the early 20th century but has fallen out of favour because of fairly obvious issues with blowback slides, and with trigger discipline, as covered here: http://www.theppsc.org/Staff_Views/Aveni/Vermont_Technique.htm

Not really, I'm mostly cribbing from Wikipedia and here: The hand-guard is the most obvious thing, and is A1. I did hesitate to even point it out, but it's genuinely a poor show by PatrolBase (or anyone else) to claim that it's an A1 receiver, which it clearly isn't. Hmm, are there any actual A1s? The CYMA "A1" receiver is closer, but still has an A2 stock, grip, birdcage and slip ring. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/cyma-cm-009a1-m16a1-assault-rifle G&P looks pretty good, but at a much higher cost: https://gpairsoft-uk.com/shop/en/50019-gp-airsoft-m16a1-aeg-gp-gp290.html They even do a recoil version of the very early pattern with no forward assist: https://www.gunmart.net/gun-reviews/airsoft-guns/bb-guns/gp-m16a1-recoil The thing is, the BBs won't care, and neither will anyone else except stitch-counters.

Apparently there's one in GTA IV. No shell deflector! TRIGGERED!

The hand guard looks A1. A ruler-on-the-screen says that the stock looks more A2 length than A1 and the butt stock looks like it's fully textured like A2, but I could be wrong on those. Can't see if the flash hider has a hole on the bottom (A1) or no hole (A2). The receiver is A2: the rear sight has an elevation adjuster, the forward assist is round rather than teardrop, there's a shell deflector behind the ejection post, and the slip ring is tapered rather than parallel. I can't see if there's a finger groove on the grip, but I'm guessing that there is. [UPDATE] Oh, this one? https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/golden-eagle-m16a1-super-enhanced-aeg Yup, butt, stock, grip and flash hider are all A2. The only A1 thing that I can see on there is the hand guard. "A1 style receiver. Perfect for re-enactment [and] mil-sim", the cheeky buggers. Now, I'm sure someone will out-nerd me (front sight post profile?).

I have to admire the resolve to keep the listing up though. Has that price been dropped?

"Frag out!"

I'm deliberately bumping this topic as it's still one of the top Google hits for "airsoft MP5K trigger pull" / "V3 trigger pull" and similar. Well, I put a bit of time into this. The 2-piece trigger is always going to be a problem, as there's loads of slack in it before the 2nd part even starts to move forwards. Then it has to move quite a long way back in order to reset the cut-off level. It was easy enough to pre-tension by gluing a strip of plastic to the top front of the main trigger to stop it moving fully forwards / upwards against the gearbox, but this then stopped the semi-auto reset. So eventually I hit on this pragmatic bodge: just stick pieces of cut up pencil eraser onto the trigger, which can be done with the gun fully assembled. A piece on the front pre-tensions it, and you can also put a piece on the back to limit rearward travel and give a shorter total pull. In both cases, hold the pieces in place while you work the trigger, and start with pieces that are too thick to allow triggering or resetting, then slowly pare them down until you get consisting fire-and-reset, and superglue in place. It's still not what you'd call a short pull, but you can improve the stock pull a fair bit with very little time and effort. If it starts acting up on game day, just rip the rubber out and you're back to stock. The pieces of white rubber are still unpainted here to make it clear what I've done - a dab of black will hide the bodge.

A thousand times this. What we've got works, and we can have fun with it. If someone's crept a little bit over, or they spooge a short burst of full auto within 10m or whatever the site limit is, it's no real biggie in the grand scheme of things.

See https://desertfoxevents.com/Desert-Fox-Events-Manual.pdf Rather filmsim, LARPy and over complicated, but as near as I can make out: AEG, pistol, shotgun and GBBR, 1.5J and semi-auto only. LMG/MMG, 2J, 50 foot / 15m MED and max 30rps(!) DMR/Boltie, 2.8J, 100'/30m MED (and as though it's not bad enough having the same energy limits, DMRs can carry a carbine, snipers can only carry a pistol secondary. WTF?) But this is where is gets a bit interesting: SMG or auto-shotgun, 1J but full auto, unlike 1.5J AEGs It'd never take off here because everyone tunes for 350fps - heck, my MP5K with a 247mm barrel inside a suppressor is shooting at 340fps now. But I do quite like the general principle of different energy limits for full auto, semi-auto with no MED, and semi-auto with MED.