Rogerborg

Too many is just enough.

It's really whether you can find a buyer. I mean, you could ask for a pack of Haribo and a reach-around and still not find anyone wanting to touch it (the Haribo, I mean). Have you stuck it up in other classifieds too?

I always remember what my dad told me "If it has tits, wheels, or a hop unit, you can't afford it, son." Yes, dopamine farming on social media is addictive as hell, and deliberately so. Billions have been spent to make it that way. All the best to your mate, I hope he digs himself out of that hole. Eyepro, boots and one gun is all you need to keep to have a great day.

Not a clue, bustin' makes me feel sad. I'd be surprised if there is a typical "market price" for a niche example of a niche gun in a niche hobby. What I would suggest is detailing whatever would be needed to make it shootable again, and the price/availability for that. Would you be better off spending the extra, and then selling it as usable?

If it were in stock, which it doesn't seem to be. However, if it were in stock, you could get it for £180. But you can't. Looks like it's a seller's market, as long as they can find a buyer for a Frankengun that only existed for 5 minutes.

100%. The reality is that Adjutant ADHD is going to prematurely ejaculate his balls once he's in the game zone. Shouldn't happen, will happen. So get him to the spawn and start playing.

I lolled, but I've just bought one of those, in (CURRENT_YEAR - 1). Granted, in black, not flare-gun orange. They're as bad as you'd expect from something loved by BBgnuz4Uz.

Go for it, just don't be surprised if it double-shoots on semi when sprung for 1.1J - I doubt it's got any sort of active-brake. Although as it's already wired for one, if you get on with it you could treat it to something like a Perun AB++ and get all sorts of tricks out of it. I'm loving my JG G36C on 11.1V, Big Dragon M140, and 3 round bursts.

If it's like my really cheap clone, it's a 5V LED being over-driven at 7.4V (more like 8V+) by the two batteries in series. Bright, but toasty. Not an issue in practice though (I mean, other than LED failure, but how much do we really use these things?)

Ahoy and welcome, Selby. I assume that your brother already has a UKARA or similar that would let him buy realistic guns then (looks around) "gift" them to you? However, I'd urge you to play at least twice before committing proper money to airsoft. You'll get a big adrenaline hit from your first day, it's the best hobby ever, you'll play it until you drop. The second day, you'll start to see some of the issues with it. You'll see more as you continue, and they'll always be there. On balance, I enjoy it, but a lot - a lot - of players drop out after a few months. Classifieds are full of "used once, not for me" deals. AR platform is fine, and most mid-range stuff is decent enough these days. We actually see more issues with VFCs and Krytacs than CYMAs or JGs. I'd look at the CYMA platinum as a default choice, then find specific reasons to buy something else. Doesn't really matter which specific version of AR, the only real difference is barrel length, and that's not really an issue in airsoft. 250mm is as long as you need to go for an AEG, and that's outdoors. People do well with less. Pistols are great fun, but depending on site, you'll very rarely have a real reason to use one.

A tale of 2 videos: 1. You'll drop the trigger bar in the mud, then set it on fire while changing the battery. 2. The gearbox is fundamentally broken. Can you form some sort of rudimentary lathe?

More-what-you'd-call-guidelines.

10"/ 250mm is about bang on for an airsoft AEG. More is pointless. Less will work, but you may notice some wider groupings way out yonder. Indoor CQB, not an issue.

Well, me too, but for all that ever really happens in practice, a springer will likely do the same job for 1/10th of the price, and even more humiliation.

True. True. They may not be entirely unconnected. I've only been doing it since (checks...) 2017. Heck, I'm going to say that was the peak. Cheap imports and good availability, CYMA were already getting their quality up, but there weren't quite as many bush wookies, DMR trigger-spammers, HPA ghostbusters and stripy-socked BB bouncers evident. Social media and particularly YouTube are... problematic. Great resources if you know what you're looking for, but if I open a private tab and search YouTube for "airsoft", oh dear, the top two hits.

Hi @Mshirt You'll want to post this in https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/category/4-electric-rifles/ when you're able to do so. Hang out and chat a bit first and you'll soon get access. When you do, please put a note with your username and the date in the picture with whatever you're selling, so that we know it's not just generic images. Given the paucity of any information, I'd be looking at 60% of the lowest retail price for the gun, e.g. £160, and maybe £20 extra for the mag, unspecified battery and charger. You're welcome to ask more, but then people can offer £50 and a packet of Haribo.

It's a bipod being sold for airsoft, it's worth about £20 for all the use that anyone will actually make of it.

It's a good shout, I run my M4 as a DMR, or with a spring, barrel and barrel extension swap, as a CQB gun pretty much interchangeably.

Like, Madonna nasty? Bad things happen, but when avoidable bad things happen due to someone else's negligence, you do want there to be pockets deep enough to pay all your bills for months, years, or indefinitely.

I wonder what the costs for one-off liability cover is for them - and whether they're actually obtaining it. It seems likely that there would be both higher chances of injuries happening and more chance that they will be attributable to negligence, in a venue with minimal time and money invested in it. That said, I take it on faith that my regular venues actually have cover.

It should do, but airseal is king. I just wouldn't go throwing money at it. Get some silicone grease, and work on the stock parts. If you don't have a good seal, then you can stretch the stock o-rings by taking them off the piston / cylinder head, and stretching them over the cylinder. Apply some heat, or leave them there for a while. Or if your piston o-ring is suspect, BS910 o-rings (19.18mm ID x 2.46mm section) are very slightly bigger than the typical stock ones and can give a good seal.

The very cheap ones have no bells and whistles, but they are generally robust. They're built to run at around 1.5J, and are under-stressed when sprung down to UK limits. I'd have no concerns about reliability. As the de facto standard (just through volume of sales) you'll generally find aftermarket parts will work in them, if you do want to "upgrade" anything. I say "upgrade" as the best airseal that I have is on an £80 CM.516 with the stock plastic single-o-ring piston and plastic nozzle with no o-ring.

What makes a £150 gun worth £180? The flaking red paint? One he's taken it off with a wire wheel, it does at least raise a point: is swapping a RIF covered by VCRA S36? Hmmm. 🤔

Welcome to airs- oh, right. Everything that we've come to expect, from airsoft to Apple: "yOu mUsT Be hOlDiNg iT WrOnG." [and it's nothing new*]. Retailers know fine well that almost nobody is really going to see them in court, and that we'll grumble a bit then bodge it ourselves. In this case you could tap out new threads and replace the screws with larger ones, although you really shouldn't have to. That's what they should be doing, or replacing the gearbox if they can't retap them. What they almost certainly did was just screw them back in, maybe with a bit of loctite. You're past the short term right to reject, but two failed repairs wouldn't be reasonable. I'd get the gun back first in whatever form it's in, then assert that it's not fit for purpose, not of satisfactory quality, and that as it's within 6 months of purchase, the fault was there when sold. You'll need them to cover cost of having it repaired by an actual tech, e.g. Luke, or Kingdom of Airsoft, at something like £45 an hour, plus postage both ways, plus any parts up to and including a new shell. Then it's off down the usual track of letters before action, and whether you actually want to pay to initiate a small claim in court (which you can do online now). Best of luck. [*] H.G. Wells, The War in the Air, 1907 When the [defective bicycle] hirer returned, a heated pedestrian, Grubb would ignore all verbal complaints, and examine the machine gravely. “This ain't 'ad fair usage,” he used to begin. He became a mild embodiment of the spirit of reason. “You can't expect a bicycle to take you up in its arms and carry you,” he used to say. “You got to show intelligence. After all—it's machinery.”

You could do all of that, but you don't need to, just throw in the bigger spring and see how you get on. 1.88J isn't really that much for a gears-n-piston gun. In particular, I'd stick with bushings over bearings - you're just introducing a new point of failure. Shimming is always a decent shout, AOE / tooth removal, eh, you might as well, but you're picking up the piston at the point of least resistance so it's not like a heavier spring is going to radically alter what's already happening. I would focus on air seal, but with the stock components: replace and/or stretch the o-rings and silicone grease them. Other DMR owners will disagree in order to justify what they've spent on making the bestest DMR evarrrr, and they may even be right, but my rule of thumb is that if you change everything at once, then you'll have no basis for believing that any particular component added the magic.