Rogerborg

Hmm, I wonder where he's sourcing all these "brand new, unused" RIFs from. I'd have to suspect that they're going out someone's back door, or are boneyard buys that may or may not work. Either way, I'd approach with considerable caution.

Hmm, Airsoft World say mini-Tamiya, but then retailers say a lot of things. Deans would be better. Given the stocking issue at the moment, what are we recommending? Component Shop? https://www.componentshop.co.uk/batteries/batteries-airsoft/batteries-airsoft-li-po-packs/batteries-airsoft-li-po-packs-74v.html SkyRC S65 charger is the current recommendation, last I checked.

Specna Arms aren't the ideal choice for this, as the Orion gearboxes have quite the reputation for cracking, even though they're well radiused. That said, I've just done exactly that to a short barrelled Edge SA-02, and my parts list from ak2m4.co.uk was: Product Name Model Quantity Price Total Sub-Total: £51.00 Royal Mail 1st Class: £1.50 Total: £52.50 Omega Nub Hard 85 (Gear Parts) GPOMEGABLACK 1 £2.00 £2.00 ZCI Cylinder Stainless Steel (Closed) M60 1 £8.00 £8.00 ZCI Hop-Up Bucking 70° Black M104A 1 £2.00 £2.00 Rocket Selector Plate (V2) SECP02 1 £3.50 £3.50 XT Outer Barrel Extension (7 Inches) XTOB7 1 £8.00 £8.00 AOLS AEG Inner Barrel (455mm) AOLS455MM 1 £20.50 £20.50 Gearparts AEG Spring M130 GPM130 1 £7.00 £7.00 The bucking was to flat-hop, and I then s-hopped it, but ended up binning all that off and going with a Maple Leaf macaron 60 and the stock Specna Arms nub which is a decent shape. The selector plate was so that I could keep the stock one untouched. To lock to semi, you just file out this area. I've stuck with the stock hop unit, piston, head and nozzle as they're decent enough, and I also bought an M140 spring elsewhere, I can't recall which one I ended up going with to get to 1.8J, you'll just have to suck-it-and-see (then cut-it-and-see) to get it dialled in for your site limits. Gears are standard, and I'm running a Big Dragon M160 motor from Ali Express. SHS High Torques are quite popular. I'm happy keeping it on 7.4V, it's not like milliseconds of response is vital at DMR ranges.

Drat, erratic problems are the most annoying. Well, if it needs shaved, it needs shaved. I had similar when I put a Maple Leaf into an MP5K with a bit of a peculiar hop unit, I just nibbled a little bit off the bottom lip to sort it.

I prefer reasons why!

Let me just stop you there. No, that's it, I just wanted to stop you. If only you'd stopped there too.

(presumed, tl;dw version)

Triggered! [UPDATE] I mean... ahoy and welcome!

Thanks, that's very informative. And that's less so. Why do you think the Specna metal bodies are more robust than the G&G? Do you disagree with the above? Truth is, either one should be fine, as far as airsoft toys go. Just accept that they are very expensive toys, and not pieces of quality engineering. I'd agree that G&G have been more historically consistent, but Specnas offer more features and better value for money - if you get a good one, which you probably will now. It's always a bit of a gamble. I also agree that the plastic bodied G&G CM16s are pretty good for the price too, and it's a really nice, light but strong plastic that's likely to take a drop better than random pot metal bodies. But then they've still got dial hop units rather than rotaries and no QC spring, so again, Specna Cores (or the cheapest Edges) beat them on features. None of them are bad choices, just get whatever you fancy and enjoy it.

I also need closure on this anecdote! Sounds like the obvious stuff had already been ruled out.

That's what I've gone with now, the lighter and more breathable, the better. 1980s style sweatbands actually work very well to prevent this. Buy two or three, and wear one while you air one. We've all got our own rituals for fogging. I go with fan goggles (FMA or DIY), dual paned (DIY), and Revision anti-fog wipes. Dye i4/i5 masks with dual pane ("thermal") lenses get some love, or if nothing else works, you can try mesh, and the gold standard there is Heroshark: https://www.facebook.com/Heroshark (the chap who makes them was just posting in this thread).

I agree that consistency is what gets you effective range. But a 0.28g 1.13J BB with sufficient backspin will go further than an 0.28g 0.8J BB with sufficient backspin, because sadly BBs lack the capacity to keep believing in TM magic once they've left the barrel. However, this is a hobby, and it's all about what makes you feel good. If you do go with the TM, just stay away from marked distance target ranges, and sweary chaps on YouTube.

I do like designated medics, it really helps to keep groups together and adds a little roleplay. My best woodland day was doing sniper/medic, and mostly the latter - lots of crawling through the undergrowth to sneak a medic tag onto folks' boots.

It's a toss up whether the marshals will be able to cope with that, let alone the players.

Hmm, a different make and and model is coming in about the same energy? You're definitely not testing with 0.12? If not, you might want to check your chrono against another one. At the end of the day (well, at the start) it's the site chrono that will matter.

My understanding is that EU sellers can charge VAT and duty at source, and have to do it for anything under £135. It's just that for reasons best known to themselves, aren't bothering. AliExpress sellers don't seem to have any problems with it - or at least with claiming that they're doing it, which isn't necessarily the same thing.

As an example of how utterly fouled up firearms law is, it's actually not an offence to sell a Section 5 firearm. It's an offence to possess, purchase or acquire one though. This is the exact opposite of VCRA Section 36.

Oof. Yes, what you've been sold there isn't an airsoft gun as it's over 1.3J and capable of full auto, which makes it by default a Section 5 go-to-jail prohibited firearm. One thing though, you are testing it with 0.2g BBs, not whatever random yellow blobs came in the box with it? I do have to ask because the top hits for it are from BBgunz4u style sites, or pre-two-toned.

The tl;dr version.

I can't figure out the threshold. The chap I saw on Facebook (which I can't find now, because Facebook) was flogging stuff in the tens of pounds, which surprised me. I'm guessing that if you get too many (or any) contested payments or chargebacks then they might put you on the guilty-until-proven-innocent list. Despite my habit of slamming in immediate but honest disputes/chargebacks at the first opportunity when a bad seller messes up, I do have a lot of sympathy with the good ones who get unlucky enough to be screwed over by a rogue buyer. Then again, a seller could send a tracked postcard saying "Whistle for your item" and might win the case. I hanker for the days when a fellow's word was his bond.

"Civil" "Service" though, but point taken, they'll have their targets just like any other low level footpads.

That. It doesn't matter why you did it, it doesn't matter if you enjoyed it, if doesn't even matter if you copped out half way through and now you feel bad, man, because feelings don't alter reality. All that matters is that you did something, anything at all. Right, lunchtime cycle time.

Heck, I'm hearing that half of them didn't even have ammunition, and that swiping gear in lieu of pay was seen as normal. And given their courageous ex-president was Tweeting "Never give up, never surrender!" while his private jet was taking off, why on earth would the poor bastards on the ground choose to stand there and shout "Bang!" ? Then factor in that loyalties run: family -> tribe -> sect -> islam in about that order, with "nation" not appearing in the list at all.

I've seen this a couple of times, I think it's becoming normal for them. One chap doing 3D printing as a business was saying on Facebook that he'd just stopped accepting PayPal now because this was happening to most of his transactions, none of his customers were bothering to confirm delivery, and it then takes ages for the funds to clear. Think about it from PayPal's point of view. Buyer protection leaves them out of pocket every time a rogue seller bilks some rube and then vanishes with the money. It won't take too many of those in the £100+ range for them to adopt this escrow situation as the default for any significant transaction. And to be fair, your part of the contract is only complete when the promised goods are safely in the hands of the buyer, and not a second before. From a buyer's point of view, this is how it should work. Sucks to be a seller though.

And that's how you get a Careful Now rating.