Rogerborg

Do they, though? Do they really?

Hi Garett, where abouts are you, and are you looking to find a site to play at?

I don't have a problem with him posting a fantasy ad, I just find it genuinely tragic that either one of two things will happen. He'll hold out for that much forever, snarling "I know what it's worth, all day long". or Some mug actually does pay that asking price.

That's leaning further left than Jeremy Corbyn going into Beckett's Hairpin.

Hmm, SIG seems to have somewhat of a complex history. Did they get back to you after you reported this huckster? Did you ask if the serial numbers are genuine? Some images of the differences between the rejects and the blessed example might be handy to illustrate the issue.

Oh dear. £150 worth of Firehawk with an unknown red dot, battery and burn-your-house-down charger. £130 of Hi-Capa T-Rex, presumably WE. £175 of Hi-Capa extended magazines, brand unknown, condition unknown. =£455 brand new, all available in stock from PatrolBase today. Random pile of holsters, BB, gas, mesh and dress up. All for the bargain price of £550, take it all or leave it. "would like to sell it all in one go" I'm sure you would, but you won't, not at new+ prices for "as new", and before the inevitable "oh yeah m8 fees and postage and that". I think these adverts make me the saddest of all.

Huh, I guess mine could have been happenstance then. Few stocks in stock, sadly. 30 out of the 50 stocks at PatrolBase, for example, aren't.

Collection assumed, hasn't though about postage. Hasn't even thought about fees beyond "etc". Listing two RIFs in one advert is more work than listing them separately, once you factor in that if/when you sell one then you'll have to update the ad or keep telling folk "no m8 its gone m8". He doesn't want to sell them.

Bear in mind this is a hobby peopled by mugs who would rather pay a premium for fragile pot metal over robust plastic, beecuz reel steal. Have you had anything assault-toy shaped in them? I had an M4 stock rejected for shipment out of Chinaland, although that may just have been happenstance.

Brave choice, preconceptions are only changed by the bold. I look forward to a "best gnu evar!" review.

Did VAT get added on? My vague understanding is that if it's under £135 then the seller has[*] to calculate and charge VAT and fork it over to HMRC, while at £135 and above they can say "That's your problem, best of luck". [*] I say "has" to, but printing "VAT paid" on the label is not the same as paying VAT, and I rather wonder whether much or any of the VAT we're now paying on Ali Express is ever making it out of Chinaland.

Oh, I hadn't spotted that he's claiming it has a VSR rubber as well. No, that's jive, man. If he's making that up, what else is he stretching the truth on, I'd wonder.

Huh, I did not know that. All I really knew is that they make what am bestest gnu EVER, the Double Eagle M83 A2. I mean just look at this bad boy, that's nearly 200fps of raw pulsing plastic gearbox power there, a red dot, 10,00,0000 lumen tactical flashlight, 100% grippable grip and a fully suppressed silencer. Most noobs go for the orange, but just between us, blue adds the most Joule creeps.

As far as Customs is concerned, yes. All I'd be concerned with is what my payment processor would do when I file a "goods not received, money back" claim. I've not had to do that yet with an import, but the normal principle is that until those goods are in my hands, intact and as described, they're not mine, they're the seller's property. I'll re-iterate the point that goods can be seized or destroyed because a seller has mis-labelled them, which is out of our control.

Many sites use ties to mark chonoed guns, but do you mean that they use different colours for DMRs? That would be notionally sensible, but in practice I've only ever had my tag checked once, ever. And that was when I put my chronoed G36 into its lasgun party dress and (credit to Biohazard airsoft) a marshal spotted that he hadn't seen it in that form at chrono and game over to check.

Except... Agreed. Whatever random OEM they've chosen this week, with every fraction of a Yuan chiselled off of the manufacturing cost. That's the thing about buying a manufacturer's own brand, they're putting their own reputation on the line. And they're cheap because they make so many of them and quickly amortise their costs. I would caveat that by saying that the cheap plastic ones have a Tonka Toy external feel, but the internals are perfectly robust and perform adequately enough to get started. But OP already knows that having bought a CYMA AK which ticks all the longevity and performance points. It's really just a question of finding something with the same value proposition but more hand-appeal.

No, they have retail shops that provide table space for playing their games as well as tournaments and even painting competitions (they flog super expensive paints and brushes as well). It's a smart move, especially with the competition from those vidjya games the kids are into these days. I should stress this is a 1990s anecdote, when some shops were still run by sweaty neckbeards who'd let you get away with shenanigans like no-mini setups (I was at least clutching and citing a purchased rulebook). No chance these days, they have a "no sweaty neckbeard" policy, and their only goal is to flog starter sets and get people hooked on the plastic crack. Fun aside, Henry Cavill (Superman) is a massive GW nerd. He can probably just about afford it as well. https://www.instagram.com/p/B-39B5ShMWw/ Oh, please bear in mind that there are plenty of other systems and settings available (and you can play them for a lot less), it's just that Games Workshop are so dominant in the hobby now. [UPDATE] Dammit, you've got me looking at the Glasgow and District Neckbeard Society now, I might drop by on Sunday and hang out with the other geezers.

The great thing is that there are few bad choices at the moment from the decent (non "BBgunz") dealers. It's a shame that you didn't get on with your CM040c, and I would caution that most AEGs feel and perform pretty much the same, or within a small tweaking distance of each other. I mean, a plastic bodied MP5K and an M14 have radically different balance, ergonomics and muzzle sound, but at the end of the day they both just puff, spin and point, and the BB doesn't care what the gun it came out of looks and feels like. Unless you go for an electric blowback, I wouldn't expect anything radically different to your AK, so it really is a case of going for whatever gives you the biggest tingle, even if that's something utterly degenerate like a P90.

Urgh, yes, one thing that always bugged me about GW run tournaments and games was that their policy seemed to be to approve, encourage and reward cheesy exploits, on the basis that "Well, there's no rule against it... yet". Every exploit is clever and funny (for everyone but their opponent) the first time someone spots and abuses it, but then word gets out and it just becomes a case of finding the exploit to the exploit, or waiting for GW to errata/addenda it away. One version of 40K (briefly) had off-table artillery and no limit on how much of it Guard forces could use, so again I did a no-model setup, said "Now find my hidden Vindicare spotters" and let the off-table Basilisks and Whirlwinds put his minis back in the box while he railed (quite rightly) "But there's literally no way for me to win and you didn't even bring an army!" Utterly abusive, but "there's no rule against it." Decent clubs, referees and opponents will adopt the airsoft ethos of "don't be a dick", but that never seemed to be the case with GW, which is one of the reasons why I just dropped it.

I have a hot black pussy on my lap just now or I'd already be trying this!

I'll be very clear that I don't know the answer to that question, and don't know how well these will play with an active-brake mosfet (which may be very, very badly indeed), but I've fitted Schottky diodes to all my motors now in a ritual act to keep the angry pixies flying in the right direction without escaping in a sparky rage. I use SB260s rather than the SB160s recommended here because 1) they fit, and 2) that's a whole 100 more Schottkies! [Edit - I wind the wires the other way, clockwise around the screws, so that they get pulled tighter. I'm not sure why this chap wound them anticlockwise, or whether that's deliberate or not]

There are all sorts of systems available with varying complexities in just about any setting (fantasy, historical, science fiction, naval, aircraft, spaceships) and scales from pub punch-ups to Waterloo. The best systems let you concentrate on actual tactics and putting yourself in the position of a commander, while Games Workshop stuff is much more about meta-gaming to exploit an ever changing set of special rules and trick units, then setting up and rolling huge handfuls of dice without much by the way of actual decisions or tactics once you're playing. You can play at home, the problem these days is finding folk near you to play with who are interested in the same settings and systems as you. That's where Games Workshop shines, they have retail shops and run tournaments where you can use the hugely expensive models that they sold you, and God help you if you try and bring anything else. You could jump on... urgh... Facebook and see if there are any Localtown wargaming / tabletop clubs. True that, I once reduced a grown man to tears in a tournament by exploiting the hell out of Epic with a force composed entirely of cheap Scout Marine companies and Thunderhawk dropships (part played by de-bladed Micro Machines Apache helicopters from the local toy shop). He deploys. My whole army is off table. Turn 1, Thunderhawks drop from orbit to any point on table, and deploy swarms of Scouts directly into close combat with his expensive Titans and super-heavies. Then comes the Epic cheese of "Titan stomps on Scouts, next stand is +3, Titan stomps on Scouts, next stand is +6, Titan stomp on Scouts, next stand is +9, wins, reactor hit, boom." Rinse and repeat until by the end of turn 1 he's lost all his big stuff, and he's trembling and choking up and saying "But all you're doing is trading your cheap units for my expensive ones!" Life is hell in the grimdark, chap.

That might be a viable combination, you could s-hop a VSR barrel easily enough then slip any smoothed off bucking over it. At UK energy levels it doesn't really seem worth it over just using an AEG barrel and Maple Leaf rubber, but if it works, it works.

Good shout. I bought a JG G36C as a cheap backup but it actually gets the most regular use out of anything I have. Good robust plastic, folds down nicely for CQB, the stock rotary hop works well, and with a ZCI barrel and maple leaf rubber it's nice and consistent. I've never even had the gearbox open, the shimming sounds decent enough. I was lucky enough to get one of the models with an adjustable spring guide, which is a brilliant idea, allowing tuning it from about 1J to 1.2J at the turn of a screw. Downsides are the two-part V3 trigger which wants a confident pull (see also AKs and MP5Ks) and the not overly generous battery space in the C handguard. I managed to lock it up up a couple of times and popped the fuse once before I scooshed some silicone oil into the gearbox, rewired it with thick wire and Deans (from the trigger tabs outside the gearbox) and dropped in a Big Dragon M140 motor and now it's decently snappy and bursty. With a magwell adaptor you can run M4/Stanag mags in it, so I can chop and change between the G36, chopped down M4 or stretched out M4 DMR without scrabbling around for different mags. Worth a look.

Noted.