Asomodai

I am a big fan of my TM Aug high cycle. It's considered one of the better of the high cycle series. It outperforms any of my other stock rifles despite the low FPS. ROF out of box is impressive. It's fairly easy to take apart and work on, but I would grab some spare parts when you find them. I'm for the AUG if you like the look and feel of the platform. It's light in my mind and the weight in the back means it's much easier to carry then most rifles. Then again I like weird and wonderful and can put up with the quirks of something different.

I have a G&G gearbox in my Specna one M16/M203. I couldn't tell you what the exact model of the gearbox was though. Works fine.

Cheers for the link! I have a (Shock horror) G&P M4 Magpul Reciever and barrel set to get done.

Looks like a standard Marui Hardballer to me. Value is not much. maybe to a collector. Do you have any mags?

A&K internals are pretty crusty. Externals are perfectly fine though. Use it til it breaks or until you become unsatisfied with its performance.

Nope. The A&K uses proprietary mags of which only High Caps are available. There may be a 3dprintable STL file out there for a midcap, but I don't think it was ever publicly available.

I have the same charger and its why I got this. https://www.taiwangun.com/battery-chargers/adapter-for-li-po-aep-batteries-ipower

What part of it isn't true? I have been through it myself. (Though I had a UKARA)

3rd party as it is run by Airsoft retailers, but Border Force has access to it if the parcel is spotted as part of its random checks. It happened to me once and even with a valid UKARA took a few months to get it checked by them and released. If it gets caught being imported without a UKARA number it will likely be destroyed as it's very difficult and time consuming to prove other defenses (That frankly Border force probably won't recognise) For your own sake, just get a UKARA number as it makes things much simpler for you.

Solved! Sticky output valve which wont return to position fast enough. Still in Cornwall without tools so had to use spit instead of silicon as lube. Firing every time now. Until the spit dries out anyway.

Hello all. Problem with one of my TM FN57 mags. Got a TM FN57, only part that's changed is the outer barrel. One mag fires with no real issues. Other mag, I rack the slide and although a BB fires out (low power) the slide won't blow back and I have to manually rack the slide to fire another BB (Again with no power) mag is full of gas. Any ideas? Using green gas.

No Electric pistol has fast RPS. TM Hi Capa Xtreme is the only one I would go for in terms of GBB. Considering how many sites are banning full auto under 30 metres, its a little useless to consider high RPS as important in a pistol form factor.

Is there any residue on the inside of the outer barrel or flash hider? This happens on my FN57 pistol as the opening on the aftermarket barrel is too narrow and I occasionally get fliers.

The only one I know of is the post limits to stop spamming and to prevent people just posting nonsense to get contact access to the classifieds. You can do anything else otherwise. We want to build a community first.

The 5KU one has support for different 5KU Silencer shells. Such as PBS1 and PBS4.

Hungarian AK. Full steel. Pretty good internals.

Have you considered an LCT AMD65 to with your username?

May I suggest an AMD65 with scope rail instead? It looks great, based on a real rifle, you can position your head very low as the stock is a wire type. It has a long barrel though that doesn't make a bats bit of difference accuracy wise.

There are many I don't own. This being one of them! The only bullpup that I consider iconic that I don't own is the WA2000. Maybe some day.

SHS high speed is not a good choice for 13:1 gears. That might not be helping with the heat aspect of things. Change over to a high torque.

You need to purchase and fit an adapter to use normal mags. The Laylax one fits the SCAR L

Hey all. Picked up an aftermarket outer barrel for the FN57 which is supposed to stop the Hop unit and such from wearing out. I fitted the barrel and test fired at 5 metres and seemed fine. I immediately took it to Cornwall and I am here for the next few months with no tools, (though I still have the original outer barrel with me). I took it to a game day today and noticed the O-Ring that is on the Outer Barrel to prevent the recoil spring and stopper from falling off had broken in half and fell out. When firing the pistol about a third of the shots immediately fire a good 5-10 degrees to the left and then curve around to the right. Some shots have too much hop and the rest not enough. Now considering I have no tools, what is the most likely culprit? The new outer barrel? The missing O ring which is there specifically to stop the recoil spring going too far forward and going missing when disassembling? (it may have a secondary barrel stabilising function, but I can't prove that without a working O ring) Something else? Here are photos of the new outer barrel and the old one. New Old Any idea what size O ring the stock one is?

Most sites require physical disabling of full auto rather then a programmable mosfet for DMR's. I would recommend something with a greater cylinder volume then normal. Anything with a V2.5 gearbox or an SVD/SVU Style one.

I am unsure if you are a complete beginner so I have to ask. Have you have wound the hi cap mag completely after inserting it?

Perfectly normal. On some rifles when I turn the hop fully on it goes into double figures. It just means you have a wide range of hop adjustability. Would rather too much then too little.