Tactical Pith Helmet

I have a lower order of G3 than the lovely LCT. Not a patch on my M14 TBH. ?

Hard to go wrong with the CYMA. Think I have about seven variants now. Quite shocked to realise it...

I doubt it looking at it. Sears are usually smooth faced. I think that the Hamster is right (yet again), they look more like spring guide retainers. You never know though without stripping one down. The horizontal faces on the two half rounds look like they may connect. Anyhow... I've dropped onto a wooden stocked Snow Wolf K98. Thanks @EvilMonkee for the info. I read up tonight and some Soviet units were issued captured K98s, so my WWII loadout is complete weapon wise too. спасибо товарищ!

Thanks everyone. I've got some serious food for thought. Given the price of mp18s I am wondering if there is a known fix for the Mosin trigger sears? I could have a replacement machined up but obviously not for small change.

Looking at doing a WW1 game in a couple of months. If push comes to shove, I could paint the stock green and add a heat shield to a synthetic p/a shotgun, but... I would however like a bolt action, or at least prefer something a bit more immediately WW1-ish for the pics of me looking heroic/picking my nose in the manner of a Bolshevik volunteer. What are the best options for practical performance please? I don't fancy having to tune something like crazy, have ejecting shells, or have silly inaccuracy. A Mauser C96 carbine seems inaccurate from what I've seen. The shell ejecting K98 is out, and searching on here it seems as though the Mosin is not an option? A practical Mosin would be the best option tbh. Does one exist? The S&T SMLE is bloody expensive and out of stock. Winchester lever actions and semis are not made. Anyone recommend a decent K98?

By the sounds of it mate you might need a rubber claymore. Enjoy yourself!

I have a Flora load out. Northern Pact on fb is a good suggestion. I use Green Bean Gear and Rusforlife as first choice. Both will be happy to advise I am sure. Grey Shop has everything but it extremely expensive. Don't buy a cheap oversuit, they are basically disposable! You can mix and match camo and gear a fair bit. Since there are different versions of flora and different shades from different factories, try and buy the same brand items or as a set if you want it all the same. If you don't mind spending the money you can get whole load outs from Grey Shop and pay to avoid any pitfalls. I buy surplus from Etsy and EBay as I am happy to simply collect it if it is wrong size, although it never has been. Have a look at camopedia for the different patterns. I have found cheap Chinese chest rigs etc that are good substitutes for Russian stuff. Loab bearing vests are often cheaper than webbing. I actually have a Russian uniform for every decade 1930s to now. Gear and webbing next... The gear in your pic is VSR98 summer flora.

I need to rehome a dog. It's gentle enough but it barks constantly and won't respond to commends to shut up. If anyone's interested, I'll nip over the back fence and get it for you.

Bugger! Just bought another side rail mount before seeing this! Looks good though. If you can PM me a price paypal and posted I would be both grateful and interested. If it comes down to it having a spare rail may mean having to get another gnu to mount it on...

Are you going to test accuracy with an optic fitted at DMR ranges?

That nuts ex-girlfriend of mine barged in today, tied me up and did things I'm too embarrassed to type. I don't think she really understands what a restraining order is!

I think that there should be a thick steel washer that sits over the detent bearing. The washer lets the bearing stick out just a little. With no washer it pops free, and if closed, it will push to far out of its hole to allow the thing to break open easily. These people can help for spares: https://www.gunspares.co.uk/products/24569/HW70/ Try AirgunBBS and Weihrauch owners club for advice. If those are decent quality antique Bulldog pellets I'd keep them not shoot them.

I can't remember reflex sights that long ago. Must have been out of my price range (most things were). The third style of red dot that Snuff asks about are not great in low light unless you go silly money. The coating on the lens cuts some parts of the light spectrum in order to work clearly. This apparently is what makes them give poor light transmission. Sorry for the poor tech explanation, but it was explained to me by someone who clearly overestimated my knowledge of physics. I had a Hawke one that was crap past dusk even with a Ledray 6.

I remember those. I didn't know how they worked at all. Now I know I'm glad I never got one! Bloody hell, imagine the disappointment on Christmas morning. Red_Dot_Engineering do custom sight protectors for less than a tenner. Same people on E -Bay that do that ultra neat slip on one. I'm just ordering one for my '70s Sterling 4x40 TV screen lensed 'wideview' if you remember those. Another silly '70s fashion.

I believe that if you are in Scotland the law is different, and a licence is required for airguns. If applicable try Scottish Association for Country Sports for factsheets and advice.

Very true! For snap shooting though, cheek weld is king. It does also help with a lot that we don't actually experience in airsoft such as recoil. Tbh at the close ranges we shoot and the size of the target we usually try to hit, I almost always just mount and shoot. I could probably remove the sights from my CM16 and not notice any difference. None of my four shotguns has as much as a bead. I get some silly misses at close range with unfamiliar guns though. The point and shoot just isn't there.

It's repeatable cheek weld that you need for consistent shooting. You can line up your sights with mesh and a riser but you have to do so visually, not by feel. You may get a measure of consistency with practice, but stock to cheek bone is the key.

The Mother Superior was giving 'the talk' to the convent school girls. 'Men only want one thing, and it’s disgusting,' she intoned stentoriously, standing arms crossed and brows knit at the front of the class. Young Mary McClintok puts her hand up, 'Mother Superior, have you tried washing it?'

Exactly my experience.

My illness has symptoms which present as an irrational need to customise whatever motorcycles are in my presence. This has led to some 'interesting' results in periods of no money and unsuitable bikes. I did once, seriously and no lie (aided and abetted by some clubmates) take an angle grinder to the frame of a CX500 that belonged to someone else. It entered the club garage as a standard black bike and left oxide green in what you might call a brat configuration (albeit 30 years before the term came to my attention). I think we called it an urban scrambler. We liked it anyway, and luckily so did the rather nonplussed owner (eventually). Took us about three hours and a few bits we had pre-selected that were knocking around.

I chopped a 1978 CG125 once... Hardtail, single seat and pullbacks. I also upholstered one, covering the entire thing in inch long fur from a set of those faux animal skin seat covers that used to 'grace' so many Cortinas and Vauxhall Vivas. They were majestic.

A Apologies if I'm wrong, it's been about four or five years since I last bought some. It was cheaper than Hogue back then I do remember.

Cheers everyone! I'll hunt out my CYMA version and see how it works. If it's still too high, I'll try Hudson's suggestion and Google some of those others mentioned.

I've had a Taiwan Gun knock off Odin for years. The handle unscrews itself. I just superglued it when it was reassembled and it's been fine since. I always keep an anchor magnet in the van. It's located scores of dropped airsoft bits over the years!