Shizbazki

I'll keep you guys posted on the outcome of this company, see if they can delivery.

Finally got whats appears to be a generic "sorry we are still waiting for the Vector email" today. Dear Customer Thank you for being patient with your order for a KWA Kriss Vector. We had hoped to have shipped out all the orders we have for these by now however we are still awaiting delivery ourselves from the UK distributor. The last update we had was that they had arrived in the UK, had cleared Customs and were on the way to the distributor. We have been told to expect our delivery shortly which in turn means we shall ship your order out immediately. We are sorry if this delay is inconveniencing you and will happily offer a refund to anybody who wishes one. You might have noticed that we have now removed the KWA Kriss Vectors from our website, this is simply because we have sold all of those we have on order and as KWA no longer make the vector we shan't be getting anymore in the future. Kind regards The Dorset Gun Company Ltd 01202 980204 So still a wait

Other than the crappy parts the rest of the gun is well made and meshes quite nicely together, the lack of rails does not bother me too much especially as a lot more accessories will come Keymod ready in the future and i like the sleekness of having no picatinny rails except where they matter. For the time being i am looking to get a better pistol grip, a Magpul AFG, some Magpul MBUS sights, and maybe a DBAL to complete it and a Magpul sling, obviously some of these will be clones.

I don't mind it so much as where i play there is little to no stealth involved, its just a plain skirmishing site where everyone charges at each other lol. That said i do hope they make it in a much smaller form as lugging an M203 is gonna be a pain, hopefully they can put it in something much smaller such as a PEQ box of sorts.

Hi all I was wondering what you guys though of The Dorset Gun Company? http://www.dorsetguncompany.co.uk/ Have any of you ever bought from them or even been to their shop? I know your wondering "But they are a gun company" and whilst that's true they were selling Airsoft Guns (more on why later) So i was in the market for a KWA Kriss Vector when i stumbled across their site, as the only place in the UK that showed to have the Vector as "IN STOCK" for £330 i placed an order for one on 13-05-15. Expecting it to be shipped the next day it showed just as processed, it wasn't until 15-05-15 that i called them asking the status of the gun to learn that they had a few on their way, that should have arrived on 13-05-15, that they had been unloaded from the shipping container, passed customs and were due in the store soon, once they arrived they would shipped to the customer. I was also told that they would be emailing everyone that ordered one on that day in an hour or so and assured me that when they do arrive i will be getting one. 4 days later and no email (both inbox or spam) on 19-05-15 i called again asking a) what happened to my email i was supposed to get a few hours ago on 15-05-15 and if the guns had arrived. Sadly no guns and the staff i spoke to said that he would email me first thing next day, next day nothing Their staff told me that due to the orders on the Vectors and the fact they had not received them yet and to stop people ordering them he had removed them from the stores catalogues. I sent them an email on 22-05-15 at about 1000Hrs so they had most of the trading day to reply but not heard anything, do note that i have already had the money debited from my account by them trading under A1 Airsoft. So here we are on the 23-05-15, more than a week later and still waiting for the guns to be apparently shipped from the containers to their shop, in that time I have managed to order some thing from Hong Kong for about the same amount and it arrived a few days ago. Pulling some investigative skills in i decided to look them up and have found that the company is registered at one address but trades from another about half a mile away in a new shop only opened in January 2015, i also noted that they used to trade as A1Airsoft which is now permanently closed try their website, it returns an error and even google lists it as CLOSED. So have you guys had any dealings with The Dorset Gun Company or their former company A1Airsoft? what were they like? TBH I don't get the Vector by the middle of next month i will call it quits and seek to get a refund (if i can that is).

I don't know if its ever been mentioned but this is something i have been following since i got into Airsoft. I have noticed (like most of you too) that whilst Airsoft guns look real, GBBs have recoil, even some AEGs (albeit very light) and shoot lil BBs they lack the noise of a real fire arm, as someone who has fired various live firearms i can tell you that the lack of gun fire report noise is missing from Airsoft. Whilst i appreciate that other Airsoft Manufacturers have created amplifiers they just make loud noises at best, this on the other hand actually sounds like gun shots. Anyways its has been almost two years in the making and it appears that they are finalising the product for sale, head to their Facebook page and show'em support and hopefully they will be hear in the UK soon. https://www.facebook.com/bltechnologyNZ

So when we thought Pro Airsoft Supplies were going down hill they shoot back and start selling Krytac AEGs, seeing this and having heard Jonathan Higgs of Airsoftology bang on about Krytac so much i decided to go and get a Krytac for shits and giggles. Retailing around £295 i managed to get it for £280 (5% discount) as a member of the Emergency Services, so having got home, played around with it a bit I decided to do one of my review video, Enjoy! Airsoftology, KRYTAC CRB Review:

Hi LordGeorge I think if i am correct you watched my Video on the WE SCAR L on youtube and made a comment about CNC machined V2 gearboxes shells? Let me just say that i think you are over tweaking this gun (no disrespect intended) as the WE Scar does not like to be opened and closed time and time again (trust me i know from experience from the SCAR L). If your gun was hitting 350FPS on .2g BBs consistently (with at least a 2 to 5% +/- FPS) then i would have stopped there. Only ever use .2g BBs as your test BBs, i have a bottle of ASG Blaster .2g BBs just for testing AEGs and normally use G&G .25g BBs for skirmishing but never use it for testing. The reason i say stick to .2g BBs for testing is that this is the benchmark BB weight and most sites will use .2g BBs when chronoing guns using their own loaded mags to prevent cheating the chrono (my site does anyway). With a heavier weight BB expect the FPS to drop, looking at your numbers it appears that you have a consistent Joule Power (dont look at FPS too much). I will refer you to the following link to a chart showing that heavier BBs = less FPS. http://www.airsoftmaster.com/fps-chart-for-airsoft-guns/ Furthermore you state on .2g BBs that you got 350FPS the first time and 387FPS the second time and that on .25g BBs you got 318FPS the first time and 350FPS the second time If we look at this closely you will realise that 350FPS on .2g BBs = 1.13 Joules 318FPS on .25g BBs = 1.17Joules and 387FPS on .2g BBs = 1.38 Joules 350FPS on .25g BBs = 1.42 Joules The difference between the two BB weights and your FPS from the above is 0 change and an increase of 0.04 joules when going from .2g to .25g BBs, a job well done i would say. HOWEVER depending where you play, when you approach to Chrono your gun they will likely load their own mag in to the gun, loaded with .2g BBs, this will show you gun firing HOT at 387FPS which won't pass, to cheat it slightly increase the hop a little as this gun is VERY hop sensitive. Lastly stick to 7.4v LiPos, anything higher will rip the gears to shreds as they are WE Gears (AKA SHIT!), i know as i have shredded WE SCAR Gears on an 11.1 LiPo but got an amazing 28RPS before it broke. If you really want that higher ROF then i would refer you to a different gear ratio set or dual sector gears (though expect a lower FPS with dual sector gears).

Hmm if its not a G&G MP5 then it should be TM Compatible as only G&G as far as i am aware tend to do their own thing sometimes, all i can say is buy one, try it, if it does not fit send it back, got nothing to lose IMO

Ok, if its a front wired SRC you are going to have to open the gun up, have a look and see how the wires (not the motor ones) leave the gearbox, do they leave from the front or the back? If they leave from the back then half your job is done, all you have to do then is just rewire it to the rear by not feeding it to the front, close the gun, power it up and test it. If the wires leave the gearbox from the front however you are going to need to open the gearbox, take out the trigger contacts, desolder the wires from the contacts, re-position them on the contacts and solder them back on, close the gearbox, put the gun back together and test it.

Mate like everyone here says i would not have even looked at those two guns even when i started Airsofting, they are nothing more than pea shooters, literally. In all fairness both those guns are made nearly all out of plastic, not saying Plastic is bad as Tokyo Marui (the OG of Airsoft) make all their guns out of plastic though very good quality plastic. You will be lucky if those guns you have shown get through a few mags before they broke on you, sadly you get what you pay for. Personally if I were you, save up some more and get a gas blow back pistol, i would aim at a company such as WE Airsoft as they do decent quality gas blow back pistols which operate close to the real thing, which will last a long time, will have decent range and won't break the bank, still though most of their guns are over £90. My WE Airsoft Beretta M92F in S.T.A.R.S (from Resident Evil) look cost over £110 from a decent Airsoft shop. Have a look from REAL Airsoft shops like ZeroOne, AirsoftZone, ProAirsoft Supplies, Land Warrior and Patrol Base. All of them will require that you are over 18 to purchase and Airsoft gun of any kind and of any colour even two tones, if you want one in black, tan, olive drab or white you will also need a UKARA number for reasonable defence under the VCRA Laws in the UK.

Hi It depends on what MP5 you have mate as in what version and what manufacturer? My MP5 A5 was originally a solid stock MP5 made by G&G but when i was at the shop buying it i requested if they could give me the retractable stock instead and so they did (Awesome Service BTW from Airsoft Zone, Romford). In short yes you can, most MP5s come with V2 gearboxes and they normally have two wire entrances, at the front just above the trigger and at the rear just behind and below the spring guide. Even though mine was front wired G&G still had the wires coming out the rear and then channelling the wires down the upper receiver towards the front through a small hole into the front handguard. If yours is already rear wired like mine was, it will be much easier for you to just buy the required stock, take the gun apart, and move the wires where you want them, put the gun back together and hey presto done. If its front wired it will mean opening your gearbox, possibly de-soldering and re-soldering the wires from the trigger contacts before putting it back together again. As a side note, may i ask why you want it rear wired instead? just out of interest.

Hi mate If your GBB MP5 handguard is compatible with TM MP5 Handguards then i would recommend this: http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/parts-c8/external-parts-c97/r-i-s-ii-for-mp5a4-a5-p1069 Even though it is made and marketed by G&G funnily enough it's NOT compatible with G&G MP5s, lol I would recommend you go to an airsoft site, find someone with an MP5 NOT made by G&G so ICS, Tokyo Marui et al and see if your handguard fits theirs before splashing out on a handguard rail.

I concurr, go with the G&G CM16 as a starter weapon

Hi all I replaced the flash hider on my G&G TR4-18 (HK 416) AEG to have the notch in the flash hider, the reason for it is that it goes with the Knights Armament QD Supressor. The suppressor fits over the flash hider and inside the suppressor is a pin which fits in the notch on the flash hider to stop the suppressor from spinning around. Watch this video here from Airsoftology, FFW to the 4.30 minute mark

I don't know if you read this post of mine as it may be of help: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/25812-g-g-mp5-sector-switch-problems/ However this sounds mostly like a trigger contact issue, the spring everyone is talking about this one is the one shown in this picture: I think off the top of my head you will need a 1.5mm Hex key (see ebay) to remove the selector switch, be careful removing it though as underneth the left switch is a very small spring which you don't want to lose. Once you have removed this and the pistol grip, motor etc you can remove the gearbox. To take apart the gearbox on G&Gs MP5 which is part of their TGM range, you will need to remove the pneumatic blowback tube on top. I used this video to help me take it apart:

Ah this makes much more sense now and makes me wonder why LWA has taken ages to sort it out for your gun seeing how its actually an easy fix, it might be because they have a back log or something. Picture shows the offending piece: In the picture you will see essentially what is the trigger contacts from another AEG using the version 2 gearbox, as you can see just above it is a spring on one of the trigger contacts and sprung over a post just to the left of it. What simply has happened is that this spring has fallen off the trigger contact or the post so is no longer pulling back the trigger contacts apart. When in full auto you pull the trigger, that pushes the contacts forward causing the gun to fire, normally by letting go the spring pulls the contacts apart but because it it no longer under tension its not doing that. When in Semi auto, you pull the trigger causing the shot to fire, normally theres a small cam on the sector gear which hits a small latch (on the left of the picture held down by the black screw) that flicks the contacts apart and the spring does the rest of the work to pull it back, however when theres no tension the contacts are closed causing it to fire, after a few shots the latch pulls the contacts apart enough to stop the shooting hence the burst fire you're getting. Glad to be of help, give LWA a call and see what's happening regarding your gun.

Hi mate Let me also help you there, the short answer is the TM MP5 Rail I assume you mean this one: http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/parts-c8/external-parts-c97/r-i-s-ii-for-mp5a4-a5-p1069 Will NOT fit your G&G MP5 its for TM compatible MP5s and G&G makes a completely different type of handguard. I have managed to get it to fit my G&G MP5 but it required a significant amount of dremelling and re shaping to get it to fit, if you want i can show you pictures of what the differences are and how i managed to make it fit.

Hi I have been testing my TM VSR-10 lately, where do you ask? In my study at home. Currently it shoots 460FPS on 0.20g BBs using my chronograph (XCoretech X3200), of course testing it this way means shooting it through the chrono at point blank range. What am i using as a back stop? one old vest (laundered of course) folded over twice directly behind the chrono, it enough to stop the BBs dead since all their energy is taken out by the vest absorbing the joules.

To OP my helmet is this one: http://airsoftzone.co.uk/fast-helmet-replica-viper?filter_name=helmet I have it in black to match my CQB uniform but also have a helmet cover in Multicam (i think i got it from HelmetWorld), currently its fitted with my Z Tactical Comtac 2s using the slide rails, has a small pouch on the read of the helmet and various bits and bobs including my contour cam mount. As to this, yes mine is a replica, but i use it so that i can mount my Contour +2 Action Cam to it and my comms, also becuas eit provides bump protection and BBs to the head, no i dont expect it to be taking real bullets and shrapnel and finally yes for looks. I would say for airsoft they are quite adequate for what they do and yes it has protected my noggin from low hanging branches at my local site and BBs.

Buddy i know exactly what your problem is and i fixed it on mine. So i own a G&G MP5A5 which i bought in November 2014, went to my local site, played a whole days game, got back cleaned it and test fired it, but i also found out that when put in safe if i pulled the trigger hard enough it would slip into semi and shoot, selector switch would move too. I explain what is happening in the gun normally before i give you the solution; You have finished shooting and put the gun in safe using the external selector lever The selector lever moves the selector plate attached to the gear box forwards (away from you) in the gun This forward movement of the selector plate presses against a black lever on the outside of the gearbox This in turn rotates the safety lever in the gearbox about 3 to 5mm up This now sits in the way of the trigger Now when you pull the trigger it hits the safety lever and only pulls back a small amount This in turn prevents the trigger from moving the trigger contact sled forwards to shoot the gun. If you want to shoot the gun again, you move the selector lever which moves the selector plate off the black lever on the outside of the gearbox, as the safety lever inside the gearbox is spring loaded it falls back down to the bottom of the gearbox clearing the way for the trigger to shoot. So you're probably asking "That's cool and all but why is mine still screwing up?", easy. Most manufacturers of AEGs use a simple safety lever with a flat head such as the lever on the top left in this image: http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ultimate-mp5g3-safety-lever However G&G in their mind decided to put a small ramp on theirs (i cant find a picture to show you), now normally in a brand new gun it works fine but after some usages as little as one skirmish the parts settle in and now it slips. "So how do i fix it goddamit!" Ok it's quite an easy fix so long as you know what your doing and have the correct tools. Firstly tools, have every thing you need to disassemble the gun such as an assortment of hex tools (you may need a 1.5mm hex tool as well) and screw drivers, you will also need a metal file as there is filing involved, don't use a dremel as we are not going that crazy and you could over file the safety lever. Strip the gun all the way down to the gearbox (watch Youtube videos to help you), separate the gearbox and open this again Youtube videos. Locate the safety lever, it should be a small lever no more that 1cm in length, screwed down with a small spring behind it, it will be in front of the trigger or if you are looking at the gearbox top down to the right of the trigger. If you remove it and looking at it you will notice that small ramp i was talking about where the trigger makes contact with it. Now turn it around so the side of it which was facing upwards it now facing downwards, screw it back in and see how it fits, it should be conflicting with some other parts of the gearbox but when in safe mode instead of presenting the trigger a ramp it presents the flat side to it fully putting it in safe and stops slipping. Remove the safety lever, file it down accordingly only a little bit at a time refitting it each time the wrong way around until its able to move freely clearing all parts of the gearbox. Once done put the gun back together, test the safety selector and trigger to ensure safety holds and fire a few test shots to ensure that the gearbox works and fires as it should, use a chronograph to test the FPS to ensure that you have a good air seal, if you dont have a chronograph lookup in Google poor mans chrono, hope you like drinking coke. I do some Youtube videos related to Airsoft of which i do AEG reviews and disassemblies, my MP5 was next on the list and i will be touching on that point as i had the same issue so keep a looking out for it.

To OP Hi, I read your original post about your G&G TR4-18 which you got from Land Warrior Airsoft (LWA) about upping the spring strength so you could shoot closer to 350FPS and now you are having problems with apparent water ingress. SO i am here to help as I: 1: Tech my own guns 2: Also own a G&G TR4-18 3: Also got mine from LWA Now obviously the TR4-18 comes in two lengths (TR4-18 standard and TR4-18 Light (shorter barrel)) and colours of black and tan, mine is the TR4-18 Light in tan, when i got it from LWA i got it with the dark earth 10.5" Geissel Rail which i had to fit myself and found it shooting about 375FPS using ASG Blaster 0.20g BBs (way too hot) so i had to open it to reduce that so my TR4-18 shoots a very consistent 340FPS. To upgrade the spring i would recommend you purchase a M110 Spring from a good company such as Guarder, then follow any of the Youtube videos to disassemble it and get to the gearbox, now an M110 spring will up the FPS but this would push the gun over 350FPS so you may need to use some wire cutters and clip about 3 or 4 coils from the spring (piston side) to lower the FPS which is what i did on my TR4-18. Remember that your TR4-18 comes with that pneumatic blowback, unusually the more hop you apply the higher your FPS (normally its more hop equals less FPS) and this is because of that blow back system as i think G&G install a stronger spring maybe something like an M105 to compensate for the blow back system. As for the triple shot thing you state that on semi its doing a three round burst as in three cycles of the gearbox and a shot coming out with each cycle and that on full auto its sticking, i'll take the sticking to mean the gearbox is locking up? Stupid question but were you using the same battery all day? As the locking up would indicate a nearly empty battery, but still it would not do a 3 round burst. First thing ill ask, during or after the game was there any water ingress into the buffer tube? I ask this because that is where G&G installed their so called 3rd Gen MOSFET (read piece of crap that gets super hot and blows when using 11.1v LiPos and you should get rid of ASAP) and that your issues could simply extend from that being shorted as its usual heatshrink (bot very well either) to insulate it from the tube. It the MOSFET looks fine (should still replace it) then your second check (without voiding warranty) would be to open the bottom of the pistol grip (taking care NOT to strip the screw heads), remove the motor (again taking care not to damage the motor contacts), then remove the pistol grip (two screws inside the grip again taking care not to strip the heads) and then looking inside the bottom of the gearbox with a torch. Check and see if the Anti reversal latch is correctly aligned (see Google), that there appears to be no wear on the gears or piston (might be hard to see), i would also pop the ARL using the spring decompression button (right side of the upper receiver just in front of the cocking handle), see if every spins fine then using a small screwdriver spin the bevel gear as far as you can watching if the ARL is latching properly on the Bevel gear. If everything appears fine then reassemble it, power it up and shoot it a few times, if its still doing the same then you are going to have to open the gearbox and void the warranty, its only then you might be able to spot what's wrong with it such as a stripped gear (has never happened to me using stock G&G gears in my TR4-18, M14 EBR and MP5). Sometimes there is nothing wrong and for some reason the gun is just playing silly buggers, my MP5 would not shoot when powered even when everything appeared ok in the gearbox, it was only taking it apart (on a skirmish site too, talk about field teching) and putting it back together that something must have just fallen into place and worked. Whitlst you have the gearbox open you may as well as swap out the old mosfet for a new one, i would recommend a GATE Electronics PICO AAB as its about the same size as the G&G one and all you will have to do is splice it on to the G&G wires which are actually very good. FAILING that if you are not confident in opening and putting the gear box back together send it to the shop, i would ask that they up the FPS to 350FPS and fix that 3 round burst thing. I hope this helps you in anyway, any questions feel free to post here and ill try and get back to you.

Hi Welcome to the world of Airsofting and these here good forums The weapons you have mentioned are both very good as G&G Makes some very good internals, the differences between the two weapons (bar aesthetics) is as you mentioned the blowback system used by G&G as a feature. G&Gs blowback system for the gearbox is a simple pneumatic system, some people like them, some don't as it adds complications to the gearbox but not by much IMO. The difference between the actual gearboxes is that the blowback one has a port hole on the top of the gearbox, the cylinder has a hole to match this, there is an additional cylinder on top of the gearbox which has a small spring loaded piston inside it and this is attached to the bolt plate. When you shoot pressure from the main piston ports some air to the small piston which pushes back the bolt slide, the spring in the small piston then returns this back to the normal place. The video below gives a good idea on how this works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yyeGfob0ZUI Its more of an aesthetic appeal and i like it, i have a TR4-18 and have kept it plus it looks cool with the slide bolt moving back and forth in head cam vids. The rest of the gearbox is the same, high quality gears, piston with AOE set etc. Though i have found G&G safety levers on their version 2 gearboxes occasionally slip so you could shoot whilst the safety was apparently "ON", my MP5 had this problem but so far my TR4-18 hasn't had it. Lastly whether you do or don't, if your gun is supplied with a built in MOSFET made by G&G either use NiMh batteries or restrict your use only to 7.4 LiPos as it does not like 11.1 Lipos contrary to what the supplied paperwork says, if you do want to use an 11.1 lipo for the Rate of Fire then change the MOSFET. Hope all the above helps and again welcome to Airsoft

Hi If you're opening your gearbox for the first time i would recommend that you do so carefully. Once you have prised the gearbox from the upper and lower reciever, before doing anything else to it I would strongly advise you decompress the main spring by popping the anti reversal latch (ARL) See here for a guide on how to do this: http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/topic/220903-how-to-pop-the-anti-reversal-latch-necro-exempt/ Follow what ever youtube video to open your gearbox and hey presto you are done. As for lubrication the first thing i would do is take everything out (shims included), i would then use a degreaser (essentially washing up liquid on steroids) and a toothbrush and get rid of all the old grease and gunk. Let it all dry before regreasing. Here is a sample of the degreaser i use, you dont have to buy from Halfrauds though: http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/engine-oils-fluids/lubricating-penetrating-oil/3-in-one-professional-heavy-duty-cleaner-degreaser-500ml Now i have had experience with a few different greases and have found some to be better than others, i have used RC Car gear grease with PTFE, Abbey LT2 grease and 3 in 1 White lithium grease (in a spray can), from that i noted that the RC car grease and LT2 grease were very thick and goopy slowing my rate of fire down. However i found the 3 in 1 lithium grease to be much better at improving my ROF, it is in spray can form and quite powerful to pray into a gearbox so what i do is spray a little onto a plastic sheet and use a hobby brush to literally paint the grease on the gears, anything moving and piston rails. Heres the grease i use: http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/engine-oils-fluids/grease/3-in-one-professional-white-lithium-grease-400ml As for rubber o-rings i have found that Abbey Silicone grease (both dropper type and thick goopy type) to be pretty good

Saying that at £60, G&P EOTech clones are pretty good for a clone of the real thing (If you are after an EOTech sight G&P and Hurricane are said to be the best clones) The reticule is bright as you would want it and you can step it down, there is no distortion or parallax and its solidly built, the front lens was the only issue as it was slightly tinted in order to get the reticule to reflect off of it. The sight picture is quite large and you are suppose to aim with both eyes with it and EOTech sights are mostly for CQB type jobbies. I was quite please with my G&P EOTEch 551 sights until i got a real EOTech 552 sight, i tell you what nothing beats the real thing but it was vastly more expensive.