Shizbazki

Hi all so I just briefly read the reddit page and most replies to the Threads. I own several OLight torches which are as follows: Olight Perun 2 3 x Warrior M2R OPEN i5T EOS All except the OPEN and i5T EOS use the 18650 battery which are 3.7v Lithium Ion batteries. I carry a Warrior M2R on my Police duty belt for work and have found it to be very good and very bright. For those of you that don't know OLights have an in torch charging feature where there is a metal magnetic pad on the back of the torch that snaps to a charging cable. That charging pad also acts as an on/off switch. Having seen the fact that the man had the OLight Torch in his mouth and can definitely state with certainty that saliva DOES cause a short circuit with the torch. Having placed this torch in my mouth whilst at work I noted a very strong stinging sensation on my tongue as the saliva and tongue were bridging the magnetic pad on the back of the torch. How much current goes through i don't know but it does feel stronger than a 9v battery if only because these 18650 batteries most likely have a higher "C" rating. It is quite possible that the bridging of the gaps via saliva and tongue for long enough led to a short circuit and we all know what happens when a lithium battery short circuits. And in this case its a battery in cased in a short aluminium tube so when it pops, it POPS! Just to help clarify with pics: Above is the OLight torch charger supplied with most torches from OLight, its plugged into USB with a centre dimple and outer ring, you can see where the cable goes in that it is Green. It is only green when it is not charging or the torch is fully charged. Above is the charger attached to the torch and charging it, the part that was green is now red to indicate that it is charging. Lastly, above is where the torch is charged from. The centre disc and ring are essentially the contact points for the positive and negative terminals of the battery. Shorting the two does cause a short circuit and sticking your tongue between them, you do notice it.

Oh tell me about this. You want to sell something, THEN SELL IT!. Humans have limited time on this here Earth and will make split second snap judgements subconsciously, this includes sales. SH*T photos do not sell your gun or what ever well or you'll get low ball offers at best. Photos that are Dark Poorly exposed Flash glare Grainy Blurry Too much background distraction (think horrific bed sheets) Too much Dutch angles Part of the product your selling has been cropped out or framed poorly No sense of scale upside down photos Dogs/Cats/people/body parts in the shot Dirty/unclean background - If you treat your living space that badly, how badly did you treat this product For me though the biggest faux pas and cause of me turning away from a sale FEET How hard is it to not get your feet shot in the image? Wouldn't be so bad if it was a pair of trainers or shoes, i get put off by normal feet and sometimes you see some proper grubby toes.

I have used them several times, decent prices for their stuff. Normally ships next day with Chronopost (subsidiary of DPD) and arrives within a week. They seems to specialise in HPA kit. They are based out of Toulouse in France therefore no import taxes and duties (for now #BREXIT). They don't have a shop front, they appear to be an all online company based out of a closed warehouse, I know this as I looked up their address and it was just that, was thinking of visiting since my Aunt lived less than a 5 min drive from their place. Their customer service is really good to, they will respond in very good English.

I had the same problem with a UAC gold flat face trigger as well. I fitted it and found that on full auto the gun worked fine and t he BCG always returned to battery correctly. But lets be honest, we don't use full auto (practicality) on a GBBR. In semi i found that after every shot i had to push the UAC trigger fowards by about a millimetre for the gun to shoot again after each shot.

So last night i received my Prometheus 6.03mm tightbore 370mm inner barrel, with my Laylax hop up arm in hand i decided to have a go at install them in the MTR16. Managed to get the receivers apart, BCG out, flash hider, front rail and faux gas block, EASY. Then came a hour of headache (is it really airsoft modding if there is ever no headache? 🤔) I spent the best part of an hour trying to remove the first castle nut with an armourers wrench and heat gun. Only once the receiver itself was too hot to handle with bare hands would the first castle nut move, they it was a simple pull of the next piece AND then ANOTHER FREAKING CASTLE, BIGGER THAN THE LAST!!! I had to heat the receiver up so much i was worried shit would start melting, how much thread glue did TM use, a whole bottle 🥵 Second Boss castle nut removed, and some wiggling for the outer barrel and finally i could access the hop. I decide to measure the width of the Laylax one and compare it to stock, both were 6.75mm wide perfect. New barrel in (checked for QC and it was spot on), new hop arm in and reassemble which thankfully didn't take too long. After all that the result, FPS wise a bit disappointing, didn't get the FPS improvement i was hoping for. STOCK on .20g BBs she was firing around 1 to 1.1 joules or about 330 to 335FPS Upgraded barrel and Hop Arm i was getting 1.2 joules or around 355 to 360FPS I was hoping at least to hit 380 to 400FPS and then use the NPAS to dial it up further. So some questions: Was i expecting too much going from a 250mm to a 370mm inner barrel? Should that extra 120mm length have made a bigger difference or is it what you would expect? My only reason is that when i owned a KWA Vector, stock it was shooting 380FPS, but screwing on the suppressor (which acted as a 150mm inner barrel extension) pushed the FPS to over 450FPS As for range and accuracy i cant tell as i have a tiny garden, but i hope i didn't lose too much of the fairy dust in the hop, i was very careful. My NPAS hopefully will arrive soon so i am hoping i can volume up the MTR 16 to output at least 420 to 430 FPS.

Many thanks to those who assisted me in my MTR16 G-Edition DMR quest. So having perused Google based on your suggestions i have made the following decisions. Inner Barrel - I ummed and arghed about this between going for a Maple Leaf Crazy Jet 370mm and a Prometheus 6.03mm 370mm inner barrel. In the end i decided on the Prometheus 6.03mm 370mm barrel, my rationale for this was that it is only slightly tighter than the stock and the length meant that i could keep the original muzzle flash hider. Plus i have only heard good things about Prometheus. In an ideal world if money was no object or i could find one in stock (UK Side) i would have been happy to buy the a PDI or EdGI barrel too. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/prometheus-603mm-eg-inner-barrel-for-m4a1-mws-370mm Nub - Whilst i understand that everyone loves the SixG nub, that its well made and precise, i think i could probably get away with the Laylax hop arm. I dont plan in shooting higher than 0.40g BBs, plus i already havethe Laylax one at home now rather than have to wait for the SixG one to be made. Perhaps further down the line i might order two, one for my TM M4 MWS and the other for this MTR16. https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/first-factory-strike-hop-arm-for-marui-m4a1-mws NPAS - So in my quest to find an adjustable NPAS system, i knew of the RA-Tech one but discovered that G&P also made an adjustable one too but had 4 different colours and numbers: Red 5, Gold 4.5, Blue 4 and Green 3.5. With no information on a) how they work and b) what was the power output of each one i decided to give them a miss. My only understanding was that Red was the strongest output with a 5mm opening, and downwards. In the end i stuck with RA-Tech and managed to source an NPAS valve. http://emperionstore.com/npas-kit-for-tokyo-marui-mws-gbb-ra-tech.html My plans are to install both the inner barrel and Laylax arm first, see how she shoots in terms of FPS, then put the NPAS in. So any glaring errors??🤔

I know this is an MWS dedicated thread but i think the MTR so similar it is internally, they are essentially the same gun expect for a few bits. Just got an MTR16 and i intend to make a few mods to it to make it a DMR build, i dont mind spending a bit, just want to spend wisely. I know i ill probably have to change part of the hop but i really want to try to avoid spilling some of that TM fairy dust. I plan to be shooting .30g and above BBs. I am aiming around 430FPS on .20g BBs as my local sites are around 450FPS so i am factoring gas variations and joule creep, currently the MTR16 is shooting the standard 1 joule on .20g. Got a few questions Will an NPAS such as the RA-Tech NPAS help me in pushing up the FPS? I've noticed that the inner barrel stops some 3 inches shorter of the outer barrel, would a longer or tighter inner barrel help up that FPS? What is the preferred choice here, The SixG nub or the all in one Laylax hop arm (i already have one), i don't mind and may even prefer using the stock TM rubber? My thoughts are: Change the stock barrel with tight bore barrel that is longer than the stock 250mm one, this should in theory up the FPS (right?) Change the stock arm entirely and replace it with the Laylax arm to allow me to lift heavier BBs. Get the RA-Tech NPAS in case the above mods put me over 450FPS so i can tweak it down or if the FPS is a tad too low so i can turn it up. Thoughts TIA

Currently i have the HSGI Taco pouches for my MWS Mags

Oh Hi I totally forgot i posted this up haha. So the hop up chamber had to stay the same as its is unique to the Ares WA2000. As for the other parts i upgrade them with the following items: Hop up bucking - I tried both a PDI (https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-vsr-10-hop-up-rubber-w-hold-type) and LayLax (https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/laylaxnineball-hop-rubber-for-marui-vsrl96-and-marui-pistols-purple) one. After some testing i think the PDI one was better but marginally. The Cylinder head, Cylinder, Piston and Spring guide I got was from this set https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-precision-palsonite-cylinder-set-hd-for-marui-vsr-10 I must say very well machined and precision made. The Spring i used was this: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-520fps-spring-for-marui-vsr-10-13mm-outer-diameter though i grinded it shorter to bring it down under 500fps on .20g BBs As for sears, i had to keep the trigger mechanism the same as its propriety, i would have preferred a 90 (or zero) degree trigger but that's just not possible in this rifle. I had to keep it 45 degree trigger sear and so upgradded the sear to a steel hardened, which was this one: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/pdi-vsr-10--l96-piston-sear-2nd-sear I took it out to skirmish once to test it only, to be honest i didn't get very good test results as it was windy, the light was poor and was forced to use bio BBs and it was hard to see there trajectory. For now i have put this project rifle to bed and plan to probably get or make a 3d printed plunger so that the BBs dont get too scratched up. I also plan on using the Novritch .40BBs some day as they are a) better quality that the Bio BBs i was using and since they are white, should be easy to see on a decent day.

If your tank is rated for 4500PSI (around 300bar) then its rated for that pressure. Your local paintball place probably only has a compressor rated for 3000PSI (232Bar) so will only fill it to that much. Your best best bet is to go and buy a scuba tank rated at 300Bar, then take it to your nearest dive store that has a 300Bar compressor and make them fill it. Once they fill it you need a "Fill Station" mostly likely with a DIN Fitting which you attach to the scuba tank and basically you fill up from the scuba tank using it as a massive reservoir. I have a 12litre 300Bar tank t hat costs me less than £10 to fill and it has lasted around a year.

How long have you owned the secondary regulator (the one that takes 800PSI down to 80PSI). If its a brand new reg, then you need to shoot at least 1000+ shots to bed them in usually. When i converted one of my GHK M4 mags to HPA and appropriately tuned, i was able to get it within a 3+/- FPS range on a well used Redline Firebase Regulator.

I had this issue as well. Bought a UAC flat head trigger in gold. It fitted ok into the ZET trigger box but when test firing it on semi i had to push the trigger forwards by about 1 mm for the sears to properly reset so i could fire off another shot. no matter the filing and lubricating i did i could not sort this out and so reverted back to the stock trigger which worked fine since i didn't modify the stock ZET trigger box.

Oh in full auto skirmish battles im normally the one still toting my MWS, sneakily out flanking them and getting the rear end drop on them "pop, pop, pop" and all that. In skirmish i only ever run 4 + 1 but carry a speed loader, a bag of BBs and Nuprol mini green gas canisters so i can field load the mags again if needed but i don't often reload out in the field. Yeah my speedloaded for the MWS failed spectacularly when the handle snapped, then whilst sitting for lunch it fell some 3 feet to a hard tiled floor and split the top of it open. Useless cheap 3D printed piece of crap it was.

Personally i use the HSGI Taco pouches, they always hold my MWS mags in tightly, never had them jumping out and i do a lot of running. Thing is though the HSGI pouches only accept one mag but i can double stack them but not that i do to reduce front weight and clutter when lying down. I only carry 5 mags into game with me, 4 in the chest right and 1 in the gun. TBH Milsim is one of the few (if not the best) times when GBBR is king, especially the TM MWS even in its out of the box stock performance. Even in full blown, full auto skirmishes i have had plenty of success with the TM MWS, just means you gotta pick your shots or fights better, makes you more stealthy. Even for full auto or semi auto skirmishes i only run 5 mags with me, 4 on rig and 1 in the gun.

I'm like you i would not paint any of my guns from anything other than stock. Most guns i've see people DIY paint look bad (in my opinion) some people don't even strip the gun for painting. The only gun i ever owned that i painted was a KWA Kriss Vector that i got second hand, previous seller failed to mention that it was a two tone that he had spray painted black, and poorly at that. I stripped it down to bare parts, carefully prepped and primed the parts that needed painting. Two coats of primer, followed by 4 light coats of paint sanded in between and then two further coats of lacquer later, each coat had 24 hours drying period in between. I had a two tone sparkling black and bronze Vector. Sold it a year later, ive been keeping my eye out for it to see if it ever crops up on the market again. But in general i never paint my guns and do my best to keep them looking stock colour. As for RS on my MWS i have a real steel Magpul MOE-SL Stock and MOE grip, Magpul sling point and sling.

Assuming you have never had a GBBR before, avoid going cheap not name brand or even cheap brand sights for the TM GBBRs. Remember most airsoft clone sights are made more for looks than functionality, you might slap on a RDS on a GBBR then zero it but after 5 shots or so find that its no longer zero'd due to poor manufacturing and tolerances as these sights have difficulty maintaining a zero due to the recoil shock (as little as it may be) on a GBBR. Buy a reputable brand sight that has been tested to withstand recoil shock, .22 should be fine, no need for it to withstand .338 Lapua Magnum recoil. A lot of people will recommend Vortex sights, i myself have equipped my MWS with a Vortex StrikeFire II Red Dot Sight, it has never lost zero despite hundreds of rounds being through my MWS and if its damaged in anyway bar deliberate damage they will replace it, no ifs, no buts for the lifetime of the sight. Yeah you pay extra but you get a nitrogen filled sight (so no internal fogging), its waterproof, holds its zero, well made and has a lifetime no quibble warranty.

Hhmmm i see some pople having issues with their MWS, i will count my lucky stars then. Took my TM MWS out on Sunday and my oh my di it impress. Yeah Using Green Gas she was shooting 330FPS using .020g BBs and around 295FPS on .28g BBs. Stock Hop chamber, hop arm, hop rubber and bucking the MWS was sending BBs so far i was losing sight of them. My Vortex optics was so on point that where ever i pointed it at was guaranteed a hit! Gas in mags were good enough for full auto dump (not that i do this, i use mostly semi). Lock back worked everytime, i must say iw as mucho impressed and plan to take her out again.

How is it for you? John ( tech) from Wolf Armouries advised me to get the Strike Hop up arm instead of the Six G nub, he wasnt dissiing the SixG. He just said he has had very good experiences with the Laylax arm. Anyone else use the Laylax Hop Up Arm? I got one in the end and i am thinking of installing it. Going to a game on Sunday and will be using 0.28g BBs. Is the stock hop up nub able to lift this weight?

Hard luck, i guess you have tried looking at Eagle 6? https://eagle6.co.uk/shop/catalog/product/view/id/2501/s/tokyo-marui-m4a1-mws-magazine-bb-lip-for-m4-gbbr-series/ Shown Out of stock at the moment, put your self on teh waiting list and hope he gets stock soon.

Cheers for that 225mm is about 8.85inches which throws my idea out of the window Looks like i might have to fork out for a RS Magpul Remington stock then.

Quick two questions from you guys 1) Does anyone know where i can get just the stock for the Amoeba? 2) Could someone measure that action length? This is the length from the centre of the bolt just behind the trigger guard to the centre of the bolt in front of the magwell. It should either be 6.5inches (short action) or 7.35inches (long action). Image below for reference: Reason i ask is i like the look of the Amoeba Stock, looks very similar to the Magpul Remington 700 stock except that stock is £300+ from Brownells and only accepts a tapered barrel wheres the Amoeba accepts bull barrels by the look of it and i want to transplant another bolt rifle into it. TIA

Been there twice in a month. Website is awful but better than what it used to be (think early 2000s myspace) Front of the store has tactical clothing and gear, back of the store (away from the public window) is where the magic happens. Its basically their stock room but more or less opened to customers to browse, pick up and buy. Its also one of those niche stores where if your looking for a certain part they might have it, a bit like Firesupport. Staff are friendly and their technician Jon knows his stuff.

My Recent TM MWS skirmishing experience yesterday on 03-03-19 at The Plantation Airsoft, Billericay, Essex. I must say that often when i take guns out for their first outing i'm always a bit apprehensive of how they will perform because whilst i can tech and chrono at home, i have no way to test range and accuracy. My GHK M4 Mod1 and Ares WA2000 are recent prime examples of this when on their first outing they really failed to impress me with their range despite the amount of money i had sank into hop up and barrel upgrades hoping that they would hit the mark. So recently as some of you may know i got hold of this TM MWS second hand, it had already had some some changes (i put the gold on it, it was stock when i got it), i didn't like the 7" RIS rail (too short), didn't like the fact that the inner barrel extended through the flash hider and whilst the pistol grip and stock were Magpul inspired, they weren't REAL Magpul (PTS i think). BEFORE SO i put a barrel extender on it to lengthen the outer barrel by 2 inches so that the flash hider would clear the inner barrel, but this necessitated a 9inch RIS rail which i bought from Wolf Armouries, i went to my GHK M4 Mod 1 and removed the Vortex Optics StrikeFire Red dot sight, the real steel Magpul pistol grip and Magpul MOE stock and put it on the MWS. Had a small issue with the BCG not locking back (see pages 31 to 33 of this thread) but between me and Nathan the Tech at Airsoft Zone we deduced that it must be the BCG and magazine springs, he also kindly installed a lightweight bolt catch in my MWS which i brought into the shop with me. Stretching the magazine springs out solved the issue. AFTER Now she was battle ready or so i hoped as i had not tested the accuracy or range of my TM MWS, i was hoping that it would be like how my TM M92FS wow'd me the first time i used it where the BB seem to travel for miles out ranging even AEGs. First skirmish day at The Plantation Airsoft, Billericay. (MUDDY AF due to recent rain) I'm apprehensive to say the least, i have brought the MWS but also my trusty SAI M4 HPA gun as i know that one works. Mags are loaded and gassed. Take the MWS to the range, hop is set to completely off, using .25g BBs and fired the first shot. OMG! BB flew decently far, with hop off? Adjusted the hop, a little of backward and forwarding and i got it just right. BBs flew for miles straight, i was IMPRESSED! I played the first half of the day with the TM and loved it, more so than when i used the GHK M4 MOD1. I knew i could pull the trigger and the MWS would reliably work whereas the GHK was pull the trigger and please work?! My only complaint is that i had to adjust my game style, no more burst autoing every where or i would have no more ammo, i had to go back to the safe zone twice in two staggered games to re gas and reload but i was much happier using the TM MWS. It did make me wonder, why did i buy the GHK, when i wanted a GBBR the TM MWS was on my potentials list but i dismissed it since it would mean that if i wanted to install a keymod rail, i would have to buy a rail, a barrel spacer, get rid of that triangle sight etc etc. But i still would have saved money if i didn't buy the GHK, i am now strongly considering selling the GHK as its surplus to needs. To the future, i'm probably going to leave the MWS like this because "IT WORKS". I know there's this magical brass nub thingy but I don't want to fiddle removing the hop and stuff otherwise the TM hop fairy dust might be blown away. I might just buy some more Magpuls for the mags and possibly get a Gold BCG but that's it really.

By the power of Grayskull

No worries, thanks for the offer though.