Can you put an AK Stick Battery in a buffer tube?

[LzChase]

The reason I am asking this is that I'd much prefer a NiMH Battery as they can be stored fully charged. I am also completely new to AEG Systems and I don't feel comfortable around LiPo Batteries at the moment, especially as I have seen one go up in flames once. I run my rifles with the stock fully extended.

Edited November 9, 2021 by LzChase

[Wavey_Gravey]

Depends on the diameter / length of your buffer tube and again the same with the battery.

 

Have you considered Li-ion instead? They are supposedly a good middle ground, I like mine.

[concretesnail]

It would depend on the stock you are running as some have more length beyond the locking pin. So it would most likely be time for tape measure and then checking the length of the batteries you want to use.

[RostokMcSpoons]

Yes, just.  I just tried it with a typical 1600mAH stick battery, 205mm long. Wired with small Tamiya connector

 

My gun is a new Double Eagle M906c with a simple stock design, and Deans connector.  The stock tube is 160mm from end of the receiver to the end of the tube.  It's 120mm long internally.  I have no idea if there's a standard size for these things!

 

The problem is the wiring, with a Deans to Tamiya adapter lead, you'll need to do some 'squishing to make it fit.  And 'squishing' leads to damaged...leads.

 

And that's not good, make sure you get the cabling tidied up with no slack to get in the way.

 

I'm buying a Titan Li-ion battery... 3000mah in a smaller package.  135mm long, 20mm diameter. Expensive-ish at £30 (and you'll need a smart lipo charger) but no worries with charging or storage, just like wavey-gravey said.

 

Edited November 10, 2021 by RostokMcSpoons
Fix typo

[Iceni]

You do realise Li-ion can be just as dangerous as Li-po. The fires from both are similar. Li-ion fires can be caused by crushing, shorting, overcharging, and wrap damage. The only advantage they offer is a metal skin and slightly better tolerance to lower voltages. The advantage of the metal skin however is lost as soon as the wrap is damaged as the whole wall of a Li-ion is the negative pole. Li-ion is probably responsible for more Lithium call fires than Li-po as Li-ion appears in far more technology from E-cigs to laptops to cheap torches ect. Li-po on the other hand is only really used in small devices like mobile phones. Titan just got good at branding.

The biggest disadvantage of Li-ion is the C rating. If you have a better motor in the gun then the battery will spend all it's life above the continuous discharge rating for the cells. Those Titan packs are simply unable to safely drive an upgraded gun where the amp draw is going to start creeping up.

Titan 3000mAh is rated for 16C what they don't tell you is if that's burst or continuous. You assume it's continuous but since they don't give both values you have to assume it's actually giving you the maximum amps - Burst. So it's a 24 amps continuous 48 amp burst pack.

 

To further back that up you can look at 18650 spec sheets and see the battery tests for them. A  good benchmark 18650 is the sony VTC6 that can only do 5C/10C continuous at 3000mAh - 15amps continuous 30 amps burst. Just try to find a well branded 16C 18650 and you will have many issues as no one makes them.

A basic 2000mAh 15/30C Li-po is capable of 30amps continuous, and 60 amps burst.
A decent lipo 2000mAh 20/40C is 40/80 Amps
A fantastic lipo 2000mah is 35/70C 70/140 Amps

If all you want to do is power a stock gun then Titan is fine. However as soon as you add a bigger motor or spring you may find they get hot quickly and don't last many cycles at all.

This video actually shows pretty well the amps needed for upgraded motors. Pause at about 26 minutes and look at the chart showing peak and continuous amp draw on some of the better motors out there. Those tests were done with an M120 at 12V on 18:1 gears. So our numbers at 350fps will be lower.

NiMh doesn't care about it's C rating. It'll cap out it's Amp discharge normally at about 30-35A, but putting more load onto the battery doesn't do them any damage because the chemistry doesn't care and acts like a hard cap, Lithium cells Li-po, Li-ion ect will all try to give more than they are rated for and this is where the problems start as the battery will just keep supplying Amps until it cooks. It's the same effect as taking the rev limiter off a car, The engine will rev until something breaks, So you want the engine to be at least as good as the load you are expecting to put on it.
 

 

[RostokMcSpoons]

To counter that Iceni are the videos and the personal experience of players who are using them and are very happy with them.

 

It seems a lot of people got their knickers in a twist when Titan launched their range back in 2018 and decided they were a marketing scam.  Those forum posts are still found early when googling 'are Titan any good', and those posts make the same claims about lack of peak power.

Perhaps Titan were exaggerating their product back then, but they upgraded the range in 2020. 

 

I just discovered a nice but little subscribed YT channel called Rock Bottom Airsoft 

The chap there tests the 3 main types of batteries with both standard and upgraded guns ...

And then gives a report after using them for a time ...

 The TL;DR from that is he uses the Li-Ion all the time in preference to Li-po, and he runs upgraded guns.

 

I've yet to see any stories or videos of failing, fiery, exploding, melting Li-Ion batteries.  But maybe that hasn't happened because there aren't that many in use.  Or maybe the added safety of the metal case really does make a difference.

 

I know which type of battery I'd rather have in my house anyway.

 

The ability to store them at any level of charge without me being to render them useless with a simple mistake or lack of care makes them better value too.

I've barely played much Airsoft recently now I've come back to it after many years, but I've already seen a puffy battery that had to be ditched. 

 

I'll take the Li-Ion for a simple life.

 

 

Edit: Iceni, I forgot to mention you assumed the worst of Titan with their C rating.  I did wonder, so I searched - they address that in their FAQ
 

Quote

Is the C rating that is described on the batteries description (16C), the constant one or the burst one?

It's the constant C-rating. We have a 48 constant Amps draw and our peek/burst amps is almost 100

Please read our full blog about C-rating: https://www.gettitanpower.com/blogs/news/short-and-long-answers-what-is-the-c-rating 

 

 

Edited November 10, 2021 by RostokMcSpoons

[Rogerborg]

24 minutes ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

The ability to store them at any level of charge without me being to render them useless with a simple mistake or lack of care makes them better value too.

 

Eh, I think this is over-egged.  I've brought both li-ion (18650s) and airsoft li-po cells back from nearly flat (<1V per cell) to usable.

 

And worst case, and even though I'm super Scotch tight, the cost of an airsoft lipo is in the region of a bottle of BBs, so even I'm not that concerned.

 

 

24 minutes ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

I've barely played much Airsoft recently now I've come back to it after many years, but I've already seen a puffy battery that had to be ditched. 

 

One way of viewing this is that squishy lipos show you when you need to hurl them downrange.  Metal cased li-ion are tougher, but if they do pop, you have a nice little pocket rocket.

 

 

 

[Lozart]

8 hours ago, Iceni said:

You do realise Li-ion can be just as dangerous as Li-po. The fires from both are similar. Li-ion fires can be caused by crushing, shorting, overcharging, and wrap damage. The only advantage they offer is a metal skin and slightly better tolerance to lower voltages. The advantage of the metal skin however is lost as soon as the wrap is damaged as the whole wall of a Li-ion is the negative pole. Li-ion is probably responsible for more Lithium call fires than Li-po as Li-ion appears in far more technology from E-cigs to laptops to cheap torches ect. Li-po on the other hand is only really used in small devices like mobile phones. Titan just got good at branding.

The biggest disadvantage of Li-ion is the C rating. If you have a better motor in the gun then the battery will spend all it's life above the continuous discharge rating for the cells. Those Titan packs are simply unable to safely drive an upgraded gun where the amp draw is going to start creeping up.

Titan 3000mAh is rated for 16C what they don't tell you is if that's burst or continuous. You assume it's continuous but since they don't give both values you have to assume it's actually giving you the maximum amps - Burst. So it's a 24 amps continuous 48 amp burst pack.

 

To further back that up you can look at 18650 spec sheets and see the battery tests for them. A  good benchmark 18650 is the sony VTC6 that can only do 5C/10C continuous at 3000mAh - 15amps continuous 30 amps burst. Just try to find a well branded 16C 18650 and you will have many issues as no one makes them.

A basic 2000mAh 15/30C Li-po is capable of 30amps continuous, and 60 amps burst.
A decent lipo 2000mAh 20/40C is 40/80 Amps
A fantastic lipo 2000mah is 35/70C 70/140 Amps

If all you want to do is power a stock gun then Titan is fine. However as soon as you add a bigger motor or spring you may find they get hot quickly and don't last many cycles at all.

This video actually shows pretty well the amps needed for upgraded motors. Pause at about 26 minutes and look at the chart showing peak and continuous amp draw on some of the better motors out there. Those tests were done with an M120 at 12V on 18:1 gears. So our numbers at 350fps will be lower.

NiMh doesn't care about it's C rating. It'll cap out it's Amp discharge normally at about 30-35A, but putting more load onto the battery doesn't do them any damage because the chemistry doesn't care and acts like a hard cap, Lithium cells Li-po, Li-ion ect will all try to give more than they are rated for and this is where the problems start as the battery will just keep supplying Amps until it cooks. It's the same effect as taking the rev limiter off a car, The engine will rev until something breaks, So you want the engine to be at least as good as the load you are expecting to put on it.
 

 

 

Every battery comes with risks. 

 

 

 

Thing is, be sensible. If you puncture or short ANY battery you can have a fire or an explosion. 

 

Can you rescue a deep discharged LiPo pack? Yes. Should you try and rescue a deep discharged LiPo pack? Probably not.

 

Is a metal cased battery inherently less prone to mechanical damage than a soft pack? Yes, but it isn't impervious. If the outer metal casing of the cells is exposed you do run additional risk of shorts but if your battery is so badly handled as to expose that metal casing then you should be more careful with your batteries. Plus you can easily whack some electrical tape or heat shrink over it and you're back to square one. If you manage to peel back the outer sheath on a soft LiPo then you're in for a bad time.

 

As for the whole "Li-Ion batteries only work in standard guns" thing? Yeah, that's bollocks. I run one in my MK12 DMR which has an M120 spring and an Infinity U22000K motor in it and it's absolutely fine. Will it work as well in an SSG1 with 45RPS? I don't know, I don't wear lycra, but the point is that not all batteries are the same. Pick the one that suits your application and get on with your life.

[RostokMcSpoons]

1 hour ago, Rogerborg said:

 

Eh, I think this is over-egged.  I've brought both li-ion (18650s) and airsoft li-po cells back from nearly flat (<1V per cell) to usable.

 

And worst case, and even though I'm super Scotch tight, the cost of an airsoft lipo is in the region of a bottle of BBs, so even I'm not that concerned.

 

 

 

One way of viewing this is that squishy lipos show you when you need to hurl them downrange.  Metal cased li-ion are tougher, but if they do pop, you have a nice little pocket rocket.

 

 

 

Ouch.   

Still I think it's more likely you'd damage a plastic Li-Po than drive a screw into a Li-Ion  

I just saw a video of a guy making several attempts to cut one in half with bolt cutters, in a toilet  (so it would instantly short with the water)  Eventually he managed it and yeah it went pop big style.

 

Well, each to their own.  I'm ordering a Li-Ion, I'll let you know if it goes bad (y'know, if it doesn't kill me first ;))

 

Edit:  Damn these rabbit holes I found another guy who likes messing with batteries.  He tried to do bad things to a Li-Ion cell.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNNWbm681AI&ab_channel=GreatScott!
TL;DR on that one (I skipped to the outdoors 'abuse' experiments) - over volting did nothing but make it warm.  He tried two short circuit tests.... one did nothing but make it hot after 20 minutes.   The second made it go 'pop' but only in a small way, comparable to a LiPo going smoky, after a while.  Take from that what you will.

 

 

Edited November 10, 2021 by RostokMcSpoons

[Adolf Hamster]

if anyone wonders why i'm not a fan of buffer tube stocks, this is one of the primary reasons.....

 

don't get this problem with a fixed a1 stock, jus' sayin.....

[Rogerborg]

1 hour ago, Lozart said:

 

<Big Clive>

 

Is who persuaded me to start using an Explosion Containment Pie Dish while charging.

 

 

1 hour ago, Lozart said:

Can you rescue a deep discharged LiPo pack? Yes. Should you try and rescue a deep discharged LiPo pack? Probably not.

 

You're not my dad, you can't tell me what to do.  

 

I'm pretty cautious with anything lithium based that has been deep discharged, and more ready than usual to yeet them out the back door on the first recharge.  And that applies to airsoft batteries, 18650s (cells or arrays), and any piece of old electronics that I find lying around and decide to bring back to life with whatever random charger happens to fit.  I tend to spudge electronics or laptop arrays open so that I can keep an eye - and a temperature probing Mk 1 finger - on the cell or battery while charging.

 

But if they recharge up once (at low amperage, after a little bump to get them started if necessary) without swelling or the magic smoke escaping, then I don't fret too much afterwards.

 

Should I?

 

To be clear, I agree that li-ion is overall a better technology in 2021.  Just that li-po is still pretty good too if you don't abuse it with too much impact or current. And that everybody loves a good dramatic story about when it does very occasionally go wrong.

[Iceni]

12 hours ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

Edit: Iceni, I forgot to mention you assumed the worst of Titan with their C rating.  I did wonder, so I searched - they address that in their FAQ

I'm not making things up. Go and find an 18650 cell capable of 100A discharge. Hell go find one that's capable of 48A. The VTC6 is capable of 30A, That doesn't mean it won't give you more than 30A It's just hurting itself in doing it. 100A is probably close to the short circuit amp draw and would not be something I would want pressed to my face.

I'm also not saying you will get less performance. What I'm saying is if you run those cells at a high amperage they will get hot, because that isn't how those cells were designed to be ran. And once they start to get hot then you are doing them damage.

Titan are in effect Fudging the numbers to suit themselves.

Personally I pick my batteries to run as cool as possible, and 18650's are never going to offer that with the current technology used.


 

 

8 hours ago, Rogerborg said:

I agree that li-ion is overall a better technology in 2021

Nah mate - Li-poly (Li-HV) is where it's at All the cool kids want these now...... BTW these numbers seriously frighten me, don't put these in your gun!

65/130C!!!!

3S 11.4V 2200mAh 65/130C that's 143/286 amps! lol. And that's the sensible pick!

The less sensible one would be the

3S 11.4V 5400mAh 65/130C that's 351/702 amps!

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-bolt-5400mah-3s-11-4v-65-130c-high-voltage-lipoly-pack-lihv-xt-60.html?queryID=6e7e3ec22d68d5be4c675aad71b2d94e&objectID=69330&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics


And if you want your mind absolutely blown away look at the 130/260C mega lipo's.

4S 15.2V 9000mAh 130/260C That's 1170/2340 amps!

https://www.hobbyrc.co.uk/gnb-9000mah-4s-130c-hardcase-lihv-battery

Edited November 10, 2021 by Iceni

[RostokMcSpoons]

5 hours ago, Iceni said:

Titan are in effect Fudging the numbers to suit themselves.

Best report them to Trading Standards if you're so sure about that!

[Iceni]

15 minutes ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

Best report them to Trading Standards if you're so sure about that!

Oh the love! You make me feel like a 12 year old in a school playground.

This space where this discussion is taking place is called a forum, On a forum Questions get asked. Questions get answered. And more importantly ideas and information are shared. If you don't like that information please feel free to comment, Shoot it down, come at me with facts. Don't come at me with pointless replies that do not further the conversation any more than attempting to derail a thread, A thread that neither I nor you created. The OP may well want to know that Li-ion isn't quite there yet.

If you don't believe me about Li-ion 18650's then like I have said, Go and find these magical cells that Titan are using that can do everything they claim they can do. Shoot me down.

Just do it properly.

[RostokMcSpoons]

13 hours ago, Iceni said:

Oh the love! You make me feel like a 12 year old in a school playground.

This space where this discussion is taking place is called a forum, On a forum Questions get asked. Questions get answered. And more importantly ideas and information are shared. If you don't like that information please feel free to comment, Shoot it down, come at me with facts.

I  was hoping you'd shoot them down with actual evidence, as it seems the anti-Titan stuff all feels very... airy-fairy rather than empirical.

 

So I was suggesting it rather falls on you to disprove their claims if you're so convinced they're wrong, when they're willing to back their claims with a money back guarantee...

I've yet to see anyone actually complain about their product not meeting their claims.

Ideally I'd like someone to take them up on it by proving their battery is... shit...?  Mis-sold? To the point where they have to pay out a refund.  That'd guarantee a lot of views for a YouTube channel...

 

But yeah, I'm no expert on airsoft batteries.  Limited experience etc... I don't want to be arguing from the wrong end of the Dunning Kruger curve just cos I've watched a few YT videos.  That's the sort of poor critical thinking that has Flat Earthers thinking they're right 🤣

 

Let's agree to not so much disagree as to be on separate trains of thought on this. 

No harm, no foul?

 

Edit:  Re-reading this in the cold light of day... firstly apologies if my previous posts' flippant joke/comment came across badly, it wasn't meant to be arsey and to get a rise out of you.   

Also, 'airy-fairy' in this post is a bit harsh.  I'm all for using science, maths and data to make a point, even (especially?) when I don't understand it fully.   

Edited November 11, 2021 by RostokMcSpoons
Apology

[Lozart]

https://www.airsoftwholesaleuk.com/Wholesale-blog/li-ion-airsoft-batteries-showdown-oper8-vs-titan-power/

 

I'll just leave this here.

 

It does state that the cells used in these Li-Ion airsoft packs are capable of up to 95A burst. The simple fact of the matter though is that there is plenty of people out there using these batteries that don't seem to be having any issues.

 

Don't get me wrong, if mine all die in 6 months time I'll be happy to come forward and let everyone know but they certainly don't seem to be showing any adverse signs so far. I've definitely had LiPo packs puff up in less time!

[Iceni]

Found it

Sorry I've been looking for an article I read a year or so ago, I thought it was on redit but I was wrong so it's taken me a little longer to find the source!

Sorry for linking to another forum, but in this article a guy actually strips both the 2600mAh titan and a 3000mAh titan.

https://www.airsoftsociety.com/threads/objective-battery-test-titan-lion-vs-kypom-lipo-vs-hv-lipo.161379/

 

It's quite an interesting article TBF and  the guy doing the test seems fairly legit. That however is irrelevant as it shows that at the particular time for those batteries it was indeed Sony VTC6's been used. I needed to find that article before I continued as I needed that cell proof.

As a VTC6 it's an unprotected Li-ion. Meaning it has no internal fusing to prevent an over amp situation. Manufacturer recommendations for that cell are that is should have a protected circuit or a battery management circuit for safe operation. And in addition a battery management circuit should also have an 80c cut off. So if the battery is getting to that temp the circuit protects the battery and the user. We don't use either in Airsoft.

You do see this done correctly in power tool batteries. Where running your tool hard will make the battery cut out, and it also will refuse to charge in that situation. Yes they are over amping the batteries, but they do it in a safe way.

The Max burst amps is 30A, the max continuous is 15A meaning it's a 5C/10C cell.


There are other issues, These packs are wrapped, and Titan make no claims about the cell origin, I had suspected it was VTC6 but it could have also been a Sanyo or molicel as I couldn't recall exactly what the article I'd read was pointing at. Trouble there is if supply of VTC6 becomes harder then swapping to another battery with similar specs would be possible and nobody would know. Supply of some batteries has dried up anyone that vapes will have seen this.

The original poster of that article goes further. He has a thread on another forum with more Li-ions been tested. Again it's an interesting read.

https://www.digitalcomplex.org/index.php?showtopic=2289&pid=33996&st=0&#entry33996


 

So what you can take away from that is in order to run a titan on say a mildly upgraded gun, you will be over the recommendations set by Sony. And you will be doing it without protection. So you have absolutely no idea how hot those cells are getting or how much drain you are applying. A standard fuse will protect you for a sustained high amp draw, but not for one that is spiking the fuse quickly, or if you say run a 25A fuse that whilst it's safe for the motor, isn't quite as safe for the battery, Since you could be drawing a sustained 24A draw not blow the fuse but cook the battery.

In addition to that titan themselves have stated that overdrawing the batteries will cause degradation to the cells and significantly reduce the cycles expected.

https://www.titanpower.eu/pages/faq#

Quote

How many cycles can I expect from these batteries?
Lifetime depends on use style, the below are guidelines and should result in about 70% to 80% of it's original capacity:
500+ cycles - light use: low discharge rates (<1C), keeping the pack between 10% and 90% charged, proper pack storage when not in use (about 30% SOC).
300 cycles - standard use: above maximum discharge rates, ending the pack's use at 10% (about 2.9v), proper pack storage when not in use (about 30% SOC).
100 cycles - hard use: consistent use at maximum discharge rates, going to minimum voltage during use, stored at full or empty capacity, etc.
<100 cycles - excessive use: consistent use beyond maximum discharge rates, going to minimum voltage during use, stored at full or empty capacity, etc.

It's just not possible to recommend something that is so flawed. Yes yours might be working perfectly and not be having any issues. But that doesn't mean everyone will be so lucky.

@Lozart You can actually see in the graphs produced in that article the issue I'm trying to highlight.

There are 2 graphs with 25A discharge curves. Now the discharge is pretty good and as expected - you get slightly less capacity at a higher discharge rate, and some voltage drop. The issue however is the second part of those graphs showing the temp rise against consumed Ah.

 

In a protected battery circuit you should see a cut off at the 1.1Ah mark where the cell hits 80c. That curve is potentially steeper for us as we have more Amp draw to get our motors and gearboxes moving in the first place and will be drawing more amps. The trouble is we have no idea where that point of been safe is, and every gun is different - Wildly different.

If the technology was say able to output 10/20C then the Li-ion would be the perfect battery. As at 3Ah it would be 30/60A and there is a very good chance that our standard discharge curves would be closer to the 15A discharge on the graphs where the 80c limit is never reached for the full discharge of the cell.

And in addition to that if we had more space for batteries li-ion could already be the perfect battery, The molicel 21700 for example can do 45A continuous. It's just the space we can't afford, but that technology will improve eventually.

https://www.imrbatteries.com/content/molicel_p42a.pdf

 

One final point  about higher C ratings on Li-po's. Have a look at Lozarts chart again. If you run a high C Li-po then that voltage drop you see when more amps are used is less apparent. This means your gun shoots at a higher ROF for longer, and the Battery stays cooler for longer. It's a win win if you have the space to accommodate such a unit.

Edited November 12, 2021 by Iceni

[RostokMcSpoons]

Thanks Iceni.  

There's a lot to unpack there, especially for a non-technical battery user like me.  What I can take away from that is that Titanpower have certainly been economical with their batteries if not the truth in the past.

What I'm not sure about so much is whether the the 3000mAH that was tested was the earlier model.  The 2700mAH one certainly isn't available any more from them.  All current models are 3000+

Well, regardless of all that, one 3000mAH Li-Ion is still only the same price as 2 x 1500mAH Li-Po sticks, takes up less space, and won't worry me about charging / discharging like a Li-Po would.
And my gun is stock, so I'm not going to be over-stressing it.

 

I'll still be buying one.  And I'll let the forum know if it goes horribly wrong.

 

Edited November 13, 2021 by RostokMcSpoons
Fixing maths

[Iceni]

9 hours ago, RostokMcSpoons said:

regardless of all that, one 3000mAH Li-Ion is still only twice the price of 2 x 1500mAH Li-Po sticks

I can see the appeal of them in your situation.

The 1500mAh lipo isn't the one I would be looking at. I'd be looking for a 2000mAh 15/30C or higher. You'll pay a little more for them than the 1500mAh 15/30, but those 1500's are still in the danger range. 30/60 V/s 22.5/45. Whenever I see stories of puffed lipo's there's a fairly common trend of seeing cheap brands that lie about the output and capacity, or the user simply picked a small battery to start with and absolutely hammered it.

There are some brands that have been pretty accurate for the branding, Turnigy, VPracing/vapex, Giant power. There are more good brands out there but those ones are easy to get if stock is available.

This is a good battery. 2200mAh 20/40C VPracing/vapex 44/88A. At £17 it's not cheap but it's also well over the titan specs and at 2200mAh a single one should be an all day battery. 2 with a swap at lunch would be the perfect way to run them as the voltage left on the cell would be pretty close to a storage voltage. You'd just have to make sure they fit into the gun you are looking at. I've used them in M4's with crane stocks without fitting issues.

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2200mah-20c-continuous-discharge-airsoft-split-pack-lipo-battery.html

 

Or if you would be willing to pay slightly more and have a closer stock fit there is also a 2600mAh 25/50C 65/130 They run at about £20 each and will push that C rating even higher to keep the voltage drop lower. Again a single one should very easily be an all day battery for most people. 2 with a swap at lunch is a perfect way to run them.

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/7-4v-2600mah-25c-continuous-discharge-cranestock-lipo-battery.html
 

Edited November 13, 2021 by Iceni

[RostokMcSpoons]

That's good info, thankfully for taking the time to do that research... but I'm currently just running a simple collapsible stock with no capacity beyond the stock tube itself. So I'm very restricted in my choice, unless I spring for a replacement stock (so that's £50 for the PTS EPS most likely)

 

I do have one 7.4v 1500 mAh 20c Bigfoot lipo for it already, which runs fine. 

 

(Hey, it seems we've sort of circled back to the OP's original question 🤣)

 

I do have an A1 stock on my classic army M15.  If the fitments are standard, I could swap that over... Are they?

It would look a little clunky on my new gun though.

But I also want to share the battery with my Ak47s which only has the top cover storage..  back to square one