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THE TM MWS thread


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On 08/04/2024 at 11:23, Impulse said:

Forgive me if it's been asked, because it undoubtedly has been asked somewhere in these 272 pages, but does anyone have ideas for a hop setup for heavy BBs? My retro CQBR is wonderful hopping .32s, but my mk12 is really struggling to lift .4s at 1.64J and just about manages it at 1.88J DMR limits, but I want to run .43s at 1.64J because Warhead do good BBs at good prices so I want to swap to using them, but they only do .32s or .43s, no .4s.

 

For what I was thinking, I was considering a sixG nub (because I have actually yet to try one...) and something like a relatively soft Unicorn or ML MR bucking, maybe a 60 degree. At the moment I have tried the Jaeger Precision titan nub, which was really inconsistent, and a number of omega nubs (regular, 50 degree and 80 degree), all with a variety of ML MR buckings.


I’ve set up my DMR with a Modify tan hop and Bavtac nub, I haven’t tested it in the field yet but it’s easily hitting 60metres with a .40 in testing. Running at 290ish (1.56j). 
 

Still have adjustment in hop with the Bavtac nub so could use .43 easily I would think. 

Edited by Ronin0033
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Need some help from experienced mws users!

Friend is currently getting his mws and my noveske set up for next weekend at tuddenham, and my noveske has jammed 4 times, and now when he tries to fill the magazine he was using it immediately vents out the top, as iff the vaalve on the magazine is stuck. Any ideas what this could be, and how to fix it??

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1 hour ago, woody_2231 said:

 

 

 Does the jam look like this? Are you experiencing it on TM mags?

 

I'm not sure. My friend has my rifle atm as he was setting them up as I pick my daughter up. It has happened before, and from what I remember the bolt goes forwards but the bb doesn't enter the chamber properly and the entire magazine of gas gets vented.

 

And it's happened with both de mags, and tm type 89 mags.

Edited by LazzurusMan
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Mags aren’t seated properly, either not high enough or they rock.

 

Add a touch of Velcro / tape to the rear of the magwell, pretty common with these.

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Me again. Trying to fit a nineball bucking to my friends mws, and the hop chamber won't sit together properly, and won't let the barrel and hop enter the outter barrel. Is it a bucking issue? Am I putting it on wrong? It doesn't seem to fit as well as the autobot bucking he wants to replace (why I don't know, these autobot bucking seem to be amazing to me).

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My experience with autobot rubbers is that they seem to be great in everything that isn't an MWS or AKM. I have autobots in damn near everything, my sniper rifles, my pistols... but not my MWSs or my AKM because they were just horrendously inconsistent and flung BBs all over the place.

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Which nineball bucking are you trying to fit?

 

Lined up the grove’s correctly?

 

Photos of setup will help.

 

 

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5 hours ago, Wavey_Gravey said:

Which nineball bucking are you trying to fit?

 

Lined up the grove’s correctly?

 

Photos of setup will help.

 

 

Managed to get it to fit. It was a nineball wide airflow (whatever that is)

5 hours ago, Impulse said:

My experience with autobot rubbers is that they seem to be great in everything that isn't an MWS or AKM. I have autobots in damn near everything, my sniper rifles, my pistols... but not my MWSs or my AKM because they were just horrendously inconsistent and flung BBs all over the place.

I've not had a chance to test mine properly. Love the autobot in my pistol, so hoping it'll work well in my noveske. 

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Huge list, i tried reading through. 

I am planning on getting this with 3 extra mags.

Can someone point me to a better deal?

 

I really wanted the MK18 but thats super expensive. 

Also worried that it says you will get type89 mags or MWS mags?

 

Also if you want to point me in the right direction in what to buy to get the MK18 look and some good to have upgrades, please pop some links below ❤️ Thanks.

 

 

image.thumb.png.0b0878a8d952a6ce9530c0047b3d6f3a.png

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During my research I found this in french thread:

 

Petit retour après avoir testé des chargeurs type 89 dans ma MWS: parfaitement compatibles. Ils sont quasi identiques en dehors des marquages de munitions et d’une couleur plus sombre que le gris d’origine. Le poids et les performances sont les mêmes également. Et ils ont l’avantage d’être en stock chez AE!

 

In english and in short, TM mag type89 are compatible with our Mws.

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So, finally got to test my mk12 MWS with the sixG nub and stock TM hop rubber. Initially I was a little disappointed as while it hopped .4s, it required me to put the hop all the way on and I want to be running .43s through it once I get through these .4s. However, as the hop rubber started bedding in it started hopping way better and when I tested it with some of my friend's .43s it fired like a dream; it's set up at 1.8J (ish) and locked to semi as a DMR. Hard to get a gauge on what the effective range will be because it was stupidly windy on Sunday, so will have to see on a less breezy day to properly zero the scope and see where I can reliably put rounds.

Edited by Impulse
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Always remember to wash your new rubbers with fairy and hot water guys n gals!

 

Use your nylon barrel rod to turn it inside out without damaging it ;)

 

Edited by Davegolf
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16 minutes ago, Davegolf said:

Always remember to wash your new rubbers with fairy and hot water guys n gals!

 

Well, I've never done this - does it make a difference? Just to get any factory residue - silicone etc off it?

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11 minutes ago, The_Lord_Poncho said:

 

Well, I've never done this - does it make a difference? Just to get any factory residue - silicone etc off it?

 

Indeed, how does a rubber impart backspin? Friction.

This is why you always want the rubber bone dry of all lubricants.

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39 minutes ago, Davegolf said:

 

Indeed, how does a rubber impart backspin? Friction.

This is why you always want the rubber bone dry of all lubricants.

I appreciate that - I suppose that I have never thought the buckings would be contaminated from new.

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On 21/04/2024 at 21:03, iNoobster said:

I really wanted the MK18 but thats super expensive. 

Also worried that it says you will get type89 mags or MWS mags?

 

Also if you want to point me in the right direction in what to buy to get the MK18 look and some good to have upgrades, please pop some links below ❤️ Thanks.

 

I got my MK18 from Fire Support. I seem to remember Surplus Store being reasonable but the deal with three extra mags is a good one. I contacted FS about mags at the time and they confirmed the only difference between M4 and Type 89 MWS mags is the look. I got extra mags on eBay of all places, mainly because I prefer the look of the M4 mag.

 

If you're looking to turn your M4A1 into a MK18 then there are some posts in this thread that would be worth you finding, although if you're planning to buy the stuff straight away you may find it more cost effective to just get a MK18 .... which is out of stock by the look of it. Fire Support's stock alerts are pretty timely though, that's how I landed mine.

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Hello, I've been doing airsoft a couple of years but I'm very new to GBBR and the mk18 mws is my first gas gun so apologise for any stupid questions, any help is massively appreciated!

 

Firstly I got the gun out read the manuals (looked at the pictures) there was one picture that confused me abit about splitting the gun as I've never done it before and don't want to be stuck if I ever need to, what position does the bolt need to be in when taking out the pins and splitting, logic tells me forward but I've learnt not to trust logic haha. Also is there anything else i should know?

 

Secondly is there anything I should change or do to the gun immediately or just wait until I need to do it. I have had a look on YouTube but everyone seems to call things different names and I'm not massively clued up anyway. 

 

Third I made the decision to use nuprol 2.0 green gas as I couldn't find any dry gas available in the uk and I don't mind the extra maintenance (once I know how), problem is I use 0.28g and its firing 305fps which would be too hot for uk limits but then it fires 330 on 0.20g which is ok so I'm not really sure how that is happening and what I need to do if I want to use 0.28g as I'm worried about using weaker gas incase i break something. 

 

Finally, using green gas, how often would you recommend cleaning. i attend games every Sunday sometimes every other Sunday.

 

Once again thank you for any help i didn't realise how stressful it would be but i kind of like it haha.

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16 hours ago, Hound said:

Firstly I got the gun out read the manuals (looked at the pictures) there was one picture that confused me abit about splitting the gun as I've never done it before and don't want to be stuck if I ever need to, what position does the bolt need to be in when taking out the pins and splitting, logic tells me forward but I've learnt not to trust logic haha. Also is there anything else i should know?

 

Secondly is there anything I should change or do to the gun immediately or just wait until I need to do it. I have had a look on YouTube but everyone seems to call things different names and I'm not massively clued up anyway. 

 

Third I made the decision to use nuprol 2.0 green gas as I couldn't find any dry gas available in the uk and I don't mind the extra maintenance (once I know how), problem is I use 0.28g and its firing 305fps which would be too hot for uk limits but then it fires 330 on 0.20g which is ok so I'm not really sure how that is happening and what I need to do if I want to use 0.28g as I'm worried about using weaker gas incase i break something. 

 

Finally, using green gas, how often would you recommend cleaning. i attend games every Sunday sometimes every other Sunday.

 

Once again thank you for any help i didn't realise how stressful it would be but i kind of like it haha.

 

Newish here too, had my DE MWS a few months now. So take what i say with a little salt, but from my experience and research -

 

Firstly, the Bolt needs to be forward, and the gun has to be primed. Just rack the gun, and punch out the pins.

Secondly, especially with green gas, you need to swap the nozzle return spring. Bavtac make the best out there afaik.

 

Thirdly, Its a whole lot of maths and physics, but Gas guns are prone to this thing called Joule creep - far more than their AEG or spring counterparts. Without going to jargon, you'll notice that heavier BBs have proportionally more power than they would with AEGs. To remedy this you'll want to get this thing called an NPAS. The best one out there is the Federal Concepts NPAS/ FEDA valve (However they're out of stock right now, as he's swapping to a newer version, shouldn't be too long until they're back in stock), followed by the RA-Tech, then the Angry gun. 

 

Sub-Note, using weaker gas is actually what the TM system is made for, green gas is stronger than what the system is designed for, so using duster gas (otherwise known as 144a) is also a perfectly alright alternative to installing an NPAS.

Lastly, after every game day. Especially if its outside, and especially with green gas. Explosive enterprises made a good video on how to maintain your gun, but its mainly - wipe the barrel, wipe the BCG, wipe the visible parts of the lower and all of the inside of the upper, apply lube where needed, and go.

Edited by StoveCap
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6 hours ago, StoveCap said:

Secondly, especially with green gas, you need to swap the nozzle return spring. Bavtac make the best out there afaik.

I just want to add that TM/ GM mags must not be used with the DE nozzle. If u changed the nozzle to the GM complete set, then there is no need to purchase the bavtac return spring.

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23 hours ago, Hound said:

Hello, I've been doing airsoft a couple of years but I'm very new to GBBR and the mk18 mws is my first gas gun so apologise for any stupid questions, any help is massively appreciated!

 

Firstly I got the gun out read the manuals (looked at the pictures) there was one picture that confused me abit about splitting the gun as I've never done it before and don't want to be stuck if I ever need to, what position does the bolt need to be in when taking out the pins and splitting, logic tells me forward but I've learnt not to trust logic haha. Also is there anything else i should know?

 

Secondly is there anything I should change or do to the gun immediately or just wait until I need to do it. I have had a look on YouTube but everyone seems to call things different names and I'm not massively clued up anyway. 

 

Third I made the decision to use nuprol 2.0 green gas as I couldn't find any dry gas available in the uk and I don't mind the extra maintenance (once I know how), problem is I use 0.28g and its firing 305fps which would be too hot for uk limits but then it fires 330 on 0.20g which is ok so I'm not really sure how that is happening and what I need to do if I want to use 0.28g as I'm worried about using weaker gas incase i break something. 

 

Finally, using green gas, how often would you recommend cleaning. i attend games every Sunday sometimes every other Sunday.

 

Once again thank you for any help i didn't realise how stressful it would be but i kind of like it haha.

 

For summer in the UK run Nuprol 2.0 / green or weaker.

Colder times of the year Nuprol 3.0 / red

Winter 0c Nuprol 4.0 / black

Basically you are using gas at different pressures to maintain the same FPS year round.

 

Buy a spare nozzle return spring, it will break eventually but this will be a good few thousand rounds!

The nub and the plastic buffer part 'b' are the only parts that need upgrading or protecting.

 

Get into the routing of cleaning your gun before or after each game day.

Lube the piston seal before or after each game day with TechT silicone grease.

Lightly oil all metal on metal moving parts with Parker Hale gun oil.

Keep the inner barrel clean, and the bucking dry.

Always store your mags with gas in them.

 

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18 hours ago, woody_2231 said:

I just want to add that TM/ GM mags must not be used with the DE nozzle.

Dunno about this, couple thousand through and my DE's nozzle is fine and I've been using TM mags, and most people recommend using the GM mags with the DE because the DE mags are based off the GM mags (The GMs are just better though).
 

18 hours ago, Davegolf said:

 

For summer in the UK run Nuprol 2.0 / green or weaker.

Colder times of the year Nuprol 3.0 / red

Winter 0c Nuprol 4.0 / black

 

Lightly oil all metal on metal moving parts with Parker Hale gun oil.

On the gas end, The max anyone should be putting through the MWS is red, black is overkill even in 0c, remember this gun was made to run duster gas in japan which has climates varying from scalding in the southerner areas to below freezing in the northernmost areas. Red is good for even 0c if you do your due diligence with sealing (Which is really required for running any gbbr in winter). Black gas is way more likely to break your gun (or even your mags, i found out).

On the oil thing, I'll admit im not lubrication expert. So I'd never heard of Parker Hale gun oil, and after looking at it, it doesn't seem to contain anything that provides a boundary lubricant (e.g. PTFE/Syncolon my beloved). It's marketed as a rust preventer(?).  What makes you recommend that?

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1 hour ago, StoveCap said:

DE mags are based off the GM mags (The GMs are just better though).

DE mags are not the same as GM mags, they are both based off magpul pmags, but the guts are completely different. But you are right in saying that GM mags are better.

Edited by woody_2231
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