THE TM MWS thread

[Gash]

24 minutes ago, rocketdogbert said:

100% it’s your bucking unless your sixG nub has fallen out

I will get a closer look when I strip it. Not sure how the nub would have fallen out as it hasn’t been apart since built and oddly the bucking seems to look ok and when the hop wheel is wound on you can clearly see the bucking nub lowering. 
 

thanks for the responses though dude. I will no doubt get a clearer picture when it’s apart. 

[Davegolf]

If you’ve got a really soft rubber then you may have split it if running 0.36 or higher as the bucking is literally stuck between 2 hard things

[Guest]

6 minutes ago, Gash said:

I will get a closer look when I strip it. Not sure how the nub would have fallen out as it hasn’t been apart since built and oddly the bucking seems to look ok and when the hop wheel is wound on you can clearly see the bucking nub lowering. 
 

thanks for the responses though dude. I will no doubt get a clearer picture when it’s apart. 

I was kidding, sorry, the sixG nub won’t fall out unless you disassemble the hop

[Gash]

12 minutes ago, Davegolf said:

If you’ve got a really soft rubber then you may have split it if running 0.36 or higher as the bucking is literally stuck between 2 hard things

The rubber definitely isn’t rated for the weight rounds I’m using. An oversight on my part. 
In your experience would a split or damaged bucking cause the current symptoms, inconsistent FPS and the hop winding itself fully off under fire? 

[Davegolf]

A few people have definitely had ‘hop unwinding’ but I can’t say I’ve experienced it, nor have any of the people with the problem ever said what the resolve was.

Either way I’m sure it’ll all become crystal clear once you remove the barrel assy 👍

[Gash]

Just now, Davegolf said:

A few people have definitely had ‘hop unwinding’ but I can’t say I’ve experienced it, nor have any of the people with the problem ever said what the resolve was.

Either way I’m sure it’ll all become crystal clear once you remove the barrel assy 👍

Of that I’m sure😊 

 

Well, thank you for settling a curious brain chaps and for all the info. I will get busy and report back with findings. 

[Guest Mr. No_Face]

I've had the hop unwinding issue pretty often and it typically occurs after I've opened the system, removed the charging handle and bolt group and replaced them. I think it's a simple matter of the charging handle and BCG rubbing against the hop wheel when being placed back into the system. 

[Wavey_Gravey]

Zparts rails…talk to me…

 

Are they pretty much plug and play or will I need an adapter of sorts for a stock MWS?

 

Quality I’m assuming is up their, not quite HAO but better than AG?

[quango2k]

On 20/06/2022 at 11:29, Wavey_Gravey said:

Zparts rails…talk to me…

 

Are they pretty much plug and play or will I need an adapter of sorts for a stock MWS?

 

Quality I’m assuming is up their, not quite HAO but better than AG?

 

Its a drop on fit. They are really nice actually. Get a Zparts steel outer barrel whilst you are at it

[Wavey_Gravey]

31 minutes ago, quango2k said:

 

Its a drop on fit. They are really nice actually. Get a Zparts steel outer barrel whilst you are at it

I would do but they don’t seem to make a barrel small enough for the build I have in mind 😓

[Gash]

On 19/06/2022 at 20:38, Davegolf said:

A few people have definitely had ‘hop unwinding’ but I can’t say I’ve experienced it, nor have any of the people with the problem ever said what the resolve was.

Either way I’m sure it’ll all become crystal clear once you remove the barrel assy 👍

I have got to the bottom of what’s occurring and thought I would share so anyone having the same issue might have a chance of setting it right. 
 

So the hop assembly is perfect. Absolutely nothing wrong with it. The bucking itself is in perfect condition with zero wear and everything else is exactly how it should be. 
 

the anomaly I found was on the nozzle guide. 
I noticed some abnormal wear along the edge where the hop dial goes over when the BCG is in its forward position. It looks like the nozzle guide plastic is ever so slightly warped towards the front end. There is a slight increment/curve upwards in the plastic which from what I can gather is causing it to catch on the hop dial (there was a slight knick out the dial in the spot I would have my hop set and wear/burs along the edge of the guide). As the dial is click forward to turn off it stands to reason that with every shot fired, as the carrier is returning to its forward position it is catching on the dial and turning it off with a few clicks every shot you take. This all rings true to the symptoms so I believe I have my culprit. 
 

the nozzle guide is very malleable so I have bent it a little, flattening out the curve and I have also shaved a mm of the plastic away along the edge in question incase it rides back up again. Inevitably I will order the AG Nozzle Guide as it’s made of a harder plastic and less likely for this to happen again but in the mean time the temp fix seems to be working as intended. 
 

I hope this information helps people experiencing the same issue now or in the future. From looking around it doesn’t appear to be a common issue so it’s nice to have an actual cause and solution. 

[Davegolf]

Very well done, that makes perfect sense!

[SilentSparky]

Played my first game with my newly purchased MWS, first move to GBBR from an AEG.

 

My play style needs some adapting, trying to suppress doesn't work to well with limited ammo, I was bingo ammo on a defend game and going toe to toe with high capped AEG's at an auto site felt like I was at a massive disadvantage.

 

I need to learn gassing the mags better, first use of the day they were all fine, regassing/loading between games was a bit hit and miss if I'd filled enough to empty a mag, also the bolt didn't always lock back, but I put that down to not enough gas?

 

I used 0.30g bb's, range was around 50/60m I would say, from the Chrono station.  Magpuls whilst nice and I thought would offer some drop protection for the mags, get in the way of the fill valves, so need to come off I think.

 

Overall, I liked the immersion of the platform though and look forward to using it again.

Edited June 27, 2022 by SilentSparky

[Wavey_Gravey]

If you cut the “loop” of the Magpul, it will still offer a little protection if you leave a slight overhang, protects the sides and makes gassing easy peasy.

 

 

Edited June 27, 2022 by Wavey_Gravey

[Colonel Kurtz]

Looking for advice, on semi my MWS only fires if I manually rack the bolt, the sear doesn't seem to reset from the bolt itself. Full auto is fine. So I guessing it's the sear not clicking down when it fires, is there anything I can do to resolve it?

[PewPew_JB]

Does anyone know if this fits the mk18 mws? Looking to install BAD lever

 

https://www.skirmshop.es/en/steel-light-weight-bolt-stop-plate-for-ma.html

[Wavey_Gravey]

Sure does!

[SSPKali]

15 hours ago, Colonel Kurtz said:

Looking for advice, on semi my MWS only fires if I manually rack the bolt, the sear doesn't seem to reset from the bolt itself. Full auto is fine. So I guessing it's the sear not clicking down when it fires, is there anything I can do to resolve it?

Use some spray degreaser to clean out the trigger box then relube with light teflon spray (GT85) and see if that sorts it.
 

Worth checking that the ramp on the bottom of the bolt carrier is resetting the semi-sear

[Colonel Kurtz]

1 hour ago, SSPKali said:

Use some spray degreaser to clean out the trigger box then relube with light teflon spray (GT85) and see if that sorts it.
 

Worth checking that the ramp on the bottom of the bolt carrier is resetting the semi-sear

 

It's an annoying as I've rebuilt the trigger box with a good clean and relubed it. No visible wear/tear. All I can tell is the ramp on the bolt carrier resets the sear fine when racking the bolt, but not after firing.

 

I've tried putting a harder trigger reset spring in with no luck, as I thought perhaps if that's not resetting quick enough it might not allow the sear to reset properly

 

I've tried a couple different bolts and charging handles...

 

I'm tempted to get a GP or SP hammer assist for a bolt and see if that sorts it but I'd rather get to the bottom of it than work around it

[SSPKali]

46 minutes ago, Colonel Kurtz said:

 

It's an annoying as I've rebuilt the trigger box with a good clean and relubed it. No visible wear/tear. All I can tell is the ramp on the bolt carrier resets the sear fine when racking the bolt, but not after firing.

 

I've tried putting a harder trigger reset spring in with no luck, as I thought perhaps if that's not resetting quick enough it might not allow the sear to reset properly

 

I've tried a couple different bolts and charging handles...

 

I'm tempted to get a GP or SP hammer assist for a bolt and see if that sorts it but I'd rather get to the bottom of it than work around it

Is the recoil spring too firm? The buffer weight too heavy? Does the bolt lock back on empty consistently?
 

Struggling to think why it would be behaving like this!

[Danhc92]

Does pushing the trigger forward reset the sear? If so, its normally its due to dirt or burs on the sears.

[Gaijin]

On 27/06/2022 at 10:06, SilentSparky said:

I used 0.30g bb's, range was around 50/60m I would say, from the Chrono station.  Magpuls whilst nice and I thought would offer some drop protection for the mags, get in the way of the fill valves, so need to come off I think.

 

 

This was discussed on another medium recently. Someone mentioned that repro Magpuls use softer rubber and are easier to fill MWS mags with than real Magpuls.

On 29/06/2022 at 07:47, PewPew_JB said:

Does anyone know if this fits the mk18 mws? Looking to install BAD lever

 

https://www.skirmshop.es/en/steel-light-weight-bolt-stop-plate-for-ma.html

 

If you're looking to mitigate bolt lock issues, just to advise that there is a few ways you can mitigate this with a bit of tuning. For instance I have a RS Magpul BAD lever, stock catch plate. But have a reliable bolt lock due to gas choice and buffer tuning.

[PewPew_JB]

4 hours ago, Gaijin said:

 

This was discussed on another medium recently. Someone mentioned that repro Magpuls use softer rubber and are easier to fill MWS mags with than real Magpuls.

 

If you're looking to mitigate bolt lock issues, just to advise that there is a few ways you can mitigate this with a bit of tuning. For instance I have a RS Magpul BAD lever, stock catch plate. But have a reliable bolt lock due to gas choice and buffer tuning.

Cheers I'll give it a go without changes the plate out first

[NoRo]

Here is my updated MK18, still waiting for the tan eotech 558.

 

 

[M4ELATR0M]

Hey guys,

 

I am long time enjoyer of this thread but this my first post - and guess why: I ran into problems with some new parts I installed yesterday.

 

My configuration:

- TM MTR16 (2019)

- TNT 370 mm inner

- PH+ complete Hop Up Unit

- G&P forged Sai bolt carrier (drop in)

- ProWin Evo 50rds mags

 

My problem is that after installing the bolt carrier it seems to scratch the ProWin mags so that it is not reliably closing fully and that leads to malfunction (mostly spitting out the gas at once after some tries).

My guess is the ProWin mags have a taller gas outlet on top.

The orignal 20 rds TM mags are running just fine. Can anyone help / maybe has the same configuration and can tell me where to grind off some material to make the ProWin mags work.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Cheers my fellow MWS/MTR lovers!