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Today, I finally found the time to install my Flamingo 60 bucking, Titan nub, and Crazjet inner barrel (250mm) into my N4 Noveske. However, I was disappointed with the results I got. When I tested my upgraded N4, the range and accuracy were almost the same as when it was stock. I couldn't think of anything I might have done wrong. Have any of you encountered this problem before? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Note: I was using the mag EMG Helios Noveske N4 M4 MWS Gen 3 Gas Magazine by Double Eagle ( Hate these mags but it is only available atm) With nurpol green gas and 0.32 BB

All of the foams do the same basic job of providing padding. Simple basic foam, uncut will happily compress to hold and protect your equipment. You can put pretty much anything in the case, in any position and unless it’s too thick preventing you from forcing shut and as long as you don’t put in too much equipment in too close then it will hold and protect. The items may slip around a bit bumping into each other depending on how close and how tight the fit is vs how hefty the items are. You can cut in to standard foam to make pockets to avoid your equipment sliding and to make shutting easier Standard foam can be cut with a knife with good or bad looking results being dependant on how carefully you cut - or use a laser cut A single piece/layer of foam can be more difficult to cut neatly into the right depths for various different items Pick and pluck is typically used in two pieces/layers - one layer as standard foam, and the other piece/layer as a precut grid with small points uncut. You plan your layout then ‘pick and pluck’ ripping out the squares that you want to place your equipment in. This results in a pixelated style, or you can cut some of the grid with a knife (or laser cut - but if you’re laser cutting then you’ve defeated the object of using pick & pluck) Shadow foam is a brand, which comes in multiple colours, eg standard grey on the top layer and a bright colour in the lower layer(s)*. Therefore when cut to fit your equipment an empty slot is obvious as you can see a coloured ‘shadow’ Shadow foam is inspired by the wall mounted shadow boards traditionally used in workshops, schools and prisons to make it obvious when a tool is missing * Note that I have referred to ‘pieces’ and ‘layers’. These are not technical terms, but just me referring to how many blocks of foam you put into the case. Normally you could think of it as a top and bottom for the lid and base. But the bottom / base could be two pieces of foam such as with pick & pluck - one whole block approx half the depth of the base of your case and a second on top that you cut/pluck apart to form the gaps that you insert your equipment in A single piece of ShadowFoam is made of a number of layers. When you cut the shape you then peel out a layer of foam. A thin piece of equipment can be accommodated with one layer peeled out a thicker piece of equipment needs more than one layer peeled out to give greater depth. Pick & pluck: https://youtu.be/dSC2vEVfSIQ?si=rHpqQ2eESKVJ0JE1 Shadow foam: https://youtu.be/GMBziTVpoWE?si=aIH3vxWDz8aV-A2a

Hi all, I’m a relatively experienced airsofter & have been playing with AEGs for the past 18 years… Recently I’ve dipped my toe into the GBBR world & come into possession of a WE open bolt SCAR H. This thing is an absolute beast & the recoil is mega. Just wondering what the verdict is on these things? Like, what’s the life expectancy of the stock parts… is there anything I should consider upgrading before even playing with it? Any advice ref parts & reliable UK based retailers/stockists for said parts would be great. Thanks in advance!! Picture is just for attention…

Hello all and thanks in advance for the suggestions. I’m after some advice on what upgrades to get for my 6 year old M4 ngrs. I’ve already put a bigger spring in and flat hopped it with purple bucking, I’m more after advice on the gearbox side. I only ever use it in semi so I was thinking a mosfet (bonus of it not locking up, my fault I know) and while I’m in there anything else really? My budget is £400 cheers guys.

Like we should expect anything else

With that budget, the best I could suggest is trying to find a WE G36. They're relatively cheap, often around £200 and they're relatively reliable and perform decently. There is also the AA R36 (which is a clone of the WE) for £220 and they're normally readily available, plus they come with 2 mags, however, they are a bit cheap quality wise. An SMG setup *may* be a little cheaper. If you're lucky to find a decent one second hand, KWA MP9's are decent guns which sell for £250ish normally, however, they are prone to breakdowns which are normally common so unless you know what's going on with 'em, don't get one. (the VORSK VMP1 seems like a nice alternative though I have no experience on them so I can't comment). Other than that, a gen 2 VFC or a TM MP7 would be the safer bet. You will be hard pressed to find anything for £240 that is decent enough to last, and leaves enough room to buy magazines and gas. It's best to save up and buy yourself something nice like a MWS or a Gen 2/3 VFC AR/416 (or the aforementioned SMG's) and get a few more mags with them.

Need, maybe not, but I'd always choose higher C (and higher capacity) over lower. Although with the caveat that anyone can claim anything, and very rarely have it tested. Hmm, I might suggest airsoft batteries to to ProjectFarm... 🤔

If anything shorter, in that it's highly likely that the nozzle is ever so slightly too long for the hop unit so when pulled back a BB cannot always enter it (especially if you're firing rapidly). Vernier callipers and a selection of nozzles in your own "airsoft parts bin" always helps

Coming to you as a total non-connoisseur, who just knocks back anything that'll get me buzzin', is the Brugal and Barcelo stuff I've got from the Caribbean any good, or is it Just For Them Touristas?

I'm going to do this review slightly differnetly from normal. Usually I'd take the AEG to bits and talk about the good and bad parts but there are plenty of youtube videos out there comparing the GBLS to other platforms and very little on what it is like to use one. I'll cover the elephant in the room, the price, later on in the review and give my thoughts. So this is my GBLS and I bought the budget/skeleton kit for a couple of reasons. As much as the full rifle is nice I was never going to keep the supplied rail and was probably always going to make my own verison (Mk18 ish in my case however this might change to a MK16 or L119A2 depending on what I finally settle on). If you have been living under a rock a little bit about what the GBLS is might help..or not. It's not a GBB rifle but it uses a similar design, it's not really a typical AEG but it uses a similar design. Confused? Well the closest thing to it would probably be the TOP M4 shell ejecting M4 but the GBLS doesn't eject shells. Inside the lower receiver you will find the gearbox and in the pistol grip is the motor. In the upper receiver you will find full sized bolt. Inside the bolt is the piston head and spring. The way it works is you pull the charging handle to the rear and when you release it it pushes the bolt forward and chambers a BB in the hop unit. You pull the trigger and this releases the compressed spring which pushes air out the front of the bolt propelling the BB out the barrel. At the same time the gearbox kicks in and cycles the bolt again and loads another BB. If set to semi it does this once. If set to auto it does that until every BB is fired out the magazine and the bolt locks in the rear position and you then take out the mag, replace with a fresh mag and hit the bolt release which loads a BB in the hop. I'm going to be aiming these next comments to people who have been skirmishing a while and use PTW's, GBB's and NGRS's. You know that way on a PTW you can get a quick double tap off quickly and both BB's will mostly likely hit the target. On the GBLS that's not going to happen. Well it will but you are going to have to train with it to get a grip with the recoil as after the first cycle of the bolt your aim will be off by quite a bit. You know the way when you full auto a GBB rifle and the FPS drops about 30 or 40 from the first shot to the 35th shot. Yeah that doesn't happen. The FPS is consistant from BB 1 to BB 60. You know that sound and slight recoil you get when you fire a NGRS well that doesn't happen. You get a very nice kick and quite a loud sound as the bolt slams forward. I'm not having a go at these other platforms as I have them all and enjoy them but the GBLS is just a bit different and in a good way. I'll do a few more comparisons to the other platforms so that the more experienced players get where I'm coming from. On the GBB it's great to have the bolt lock back making you do a mag swap, slap the bolt release and get back in the game. When I run a GBB (MWS, GHK, VFC, or any of the others I run) I'm always concerned that the gas I'm using which was under the site limits at the start of the day is now pushing the BB's above the site limit because it's now the afternoon and it's 10 degrees hotter. I'm also concerned that in the colder months in the UK I'm not getting the best from the platform because it's cold so tend not to use them. The GBLS gives me the mag swaps and the recoil I get from my GBB's but at a consistant FPS the whole year. The recoil is probably just as good as my MWS running sub 350 FPS and if there is a difference it's hardly noticable. On the PTW or a NGRS with a Titan fitted I get some nice snappy shots off. I don't get this on the GBLS. My first shot is snappy and on target but the 2nd shot will need adjusting (GBB people will know what I'm talking about). On the GBLS the trigger pull feels very real. I've heard that the trigger pull was about 10 lb but mine seems to be about 8. It feels very realistic with a nice break and reset. It feels more realistic than my GBB's never mind the PTW and NGRS. My opinion at the moment is the GBLS DAS is more realistic than a PTW or NGRS and more reliable than a GBB. Before I move on to price I'll mention the following. I ordered 2 Nupol 11.1V 30C Lipoi batteries as I thought the GBLS might eat through a battery since it's shifting the heavy bolt back and forward. I used 16 full mags today on 1 battery and there is still plenty of juice left in it so it doesn't seem to be current hungry. I had zero jams, stoppages or feeding problems with the 8 mags I used (although I did loose one somewhere along with a Glock 19 but thats another story!). I took it out the box, set the hop with 0.3g blaster BB's and was easily hitting 55 meters with accuracy and the FPS is running at around 320 (on a 0.2g BB). To be clear I have done nothing to it, straight out the box if fires flawlessly and that leads into the price. So £1350 for a toy gun is quite excessive or is it? Let's have a look at the other toys out there. Let's start with the GBB as this is probably the cheapest platform when comparing it to the rest unless you look at the running costs over a long period of time. So a MWS is around £500 then you add 7 more mags at £45 a pop. Let's also remember that carrying 8 BGG mags is a chore as they weigh a ton. Let's say you want to get the best range out to 55/60 meters so you might chuck in a tightbore and maple leaf rubber and possibly a NPAS to control the FPS. So you are probably looking at about a grand now. TM NGRS can be a bit of a money pit when it comes to getting the best out of them. £550 for the AEG, £150 for the titan, 8 mags at £25 each, tightbore, S hop, new spring and spring guide and possibly reinforced gears to replace the soft TM gears. We are probably at around £1200 now. PTW's are anywhere from £1200 to £2000 depending on the model you buy but then you have spare mags, possibly get the hop sorted, have the electrics waterproofed and then maybe have the motor rewired. God knows the final price of a full tuned PTW. I hate to think how much I've spent over the years on them. At this point you might be seeing the point I'm trying to make. £1350 plus £35 a mag doesn't seem that expensive when you don't have to upgrade/replace/rewire anything and it justs works as advertised out the box and is more realisitc and reliably than the other platforms. Are there any negatives? I know of 1 and heard of another but never experienced it. The electronic board in the gearbox doesn't like to get wet or so I have heard. Tell me a titan or Systema board that does. My only slight gripe is the metal mags rattle a bit inside the magwell. This is genuinely the only negative I could find with the GBLS. Is it the best airsoft gun in the world? well no but it is the most reliably realistic one out there and it's very much a nice experience using it. I'll finish this review of with a couple of notes. I handed it to about 10 team mates today and everyone had a stupid smile on their face after that first shot. I think a few AEG's will be getting sold off shortly to fund a GBLS. I'm probably going to be one of the ones selling other AEG's as I see that there is now a HK 416 GBLS. I'm not in anyway associated with GBLS but if you want to send me the steel bolt and Type B buffer I'm not going to get upset. Just saying.

Re black gas, in freezing conditions its pressure is considerably reduced, yes if you are stupid and use it when warmer breakages will occur. You are correct Parker gun oil does not contain PTFE or any other modern slippery substance, it is a mineral oil of which its natural properties provide lubrication. It is also lightweight, so it penetrates, does not clog, and it cleans, it is not a one time treatment, it is meant to be applied and removed with each usage of the RIF just as you would a real firearm. I mean i havent run MWS's since they came out or anything.

Dunno about this, couple thousand through and my DE's nozzle is fine and I've been using TM mags, and most people recommend using the GM mags with the DE because the DE mags are based off the GM mags (The GMs are just better though). On the gas end, The max anyone should be putting through the MWS is red, black is overkill even in 0c, remember this gun was made to run duster gas in japan which has climates varying from scalding in the southerner areas to below freezing in the northernmost areas. Red is good for even 0c if you do your due diligence with sealing (Which is really required for running any gbbr in winter). Black gas is way more likely to break your gun (or even your mags, i found out). On the oil thing, I'll admit im not lubrication expert. So I'd never heard of Parker Hale gun oil, and after looking at it, it doesn't seem to contain anything that provides a boundary lubricant (e.g. PTFE/Syncolon my beloved). It's marketed as a rust preventer(?). What makes you recommend that?

Not owned 8fields kit, but I've never had a mag, pistol or rifle, fall out of those kind of pouches, so it's probably safe to assume you never had it adjusted tight enough, not a criticism just an observation. As a young squaddie literally 4 decades ago, one of the first things we were taught was once your kit was loaded up, have a good jump around in front of your mates, looking for anything that might make a noise & give you away, & that everything is secure. Good rule of thumb before your next game.

I have ordered the next bucking for the power of the gun, also ordered tight bore barrel, everything worked perfectly, then the gun Sat unused for like 8 months, could the bucking have gone or anything? Also noticed that since last playing 8 months ago, the shots curve right when they come out, could the barrel have gone or changed shape a little and not sealing properly?

I'd agree with the general consensus on here. Do some basic tests yourself and see what's working well. Get enough to see you through a game day or 2. If you haven't, I'd suggest picking up a new rif and offloading anything you don't absolutely love. Having a tech do proper checks will cost a fortune. All the rifs etc are just extra weight on the mind and a distraction from actually playing (which I think is the good bit) get stuff you love and can use. Keep anything you love and move anything you don't love on to pay for the new bits and free up head space. I always think a high quality item is better than 3 cheap ones. Unless teching is a side of Airsoft you love (and by the fact you even asked this question, I guess you don't) the whole tech side can be a slog that takes away from the pure joy of our sport and I've seen people get so wrapped up in it they forget the objective is to have fun playing army soldiers.

Yes, biggest "issue" with the Marui MP7 that it's scaled to 90% of the real deal (if it bothers you). I never owned either WE or Marui but I have a VFC and every MP7 has the same issue more or less. Simply that constant bashing to the rear is gonna either crack the receiver or make it to explode whatever inside. Stock backplate is gonna give in over time. To my knowledge there is only one solution: aftermarket cnc'd backplate and any picatinny sling mount around the charging handle to make it more rigid. Well, that's what I did. I think getting spares for Marui is way more difficult. If I need anything VFC related, I can go to mlemart or wgcshop or any other HK based retailer. Yes, worst case scenario VFC itself but it takes time for sure.

Only kind of, and only with significant modification. The only thing I can think of that is potentially drop in, is hop up unit, but then you have to use GHK nozzles which is a ballache, because the nozzles need filing down to work with WA BCG's as they're dimensionally too big OOTB. Nozzle guides are also different, can again kind of work with some filing, but nothing is easy. God forbid you need anything in the FCG, as its a complete shitshow in compatibility, given GHK can't guarantee compatibility between their own QC and generational differences, let alone compatibility with WA.