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Eww a wix site - if anything needed to be an indication of a dodgy retailer, its that.

The problem is this dickhead is going through Pm's Sure, but if he doesn't have access to classified section he can't see anything wanted or for sale. So he won't know who to pm. If that makes sense..

Don't get me wrong, anything that deters them I agree with, but we've seen so many different attempts, regular appearing sales threads, wanted ads being targeted, & even people introducing themselves & engaging in very public chit chat in an apparent attempt to integrate & appear trustworthy, before making their scam attempts. & let's not forget the sob stories, "my friend/brother/son is sick or has passed away unexpectedly, I've got all this stuff here & I don't know what it's worth but there's bills to pay", all in the knowledge that there'll be someone who'll throw caution to the wind to get a quick bargain. Membership approval (maybe the demi mods can help filter those ?), blanket bans on certain countries or regions, & post limits before access to classifieds is granted all sound viable.

Yup, anything that takes effort will possibly discourage them. plus the wait for the post to be “approved” would hopefully encourage them to shuffle off elsewhere

Could we not have a rule, before you can do ANYTHING after joining that you MUST post on the “new players” page An introduction of yourself that must be passed by an admin? Just a brain fart thought 🤷🏻‍♂️

Not an owner but I was once a 'freebie loving' bike journo. Genuinely never wrote/said anything I wouldn't say to a friend spending their own money but either way, I am no longer a journalist, so there's nowt in it for me. The issue with the DCT gearboxes is that in standard modes, they just want to rush to top as quickly as possible. It's very easy to find yourself in 6th at 30. With the gearbox in the sporty mode they're a bit better but still hit and miss - I used to put Africa Twins straight to S3 and they still felt about 10bhp down on the standard bike. They've definitely improved the changing gear seemingly at random/mid-corner problems they used to have but it's far from perfect and it only takes one really ropey shift to catch you off-guard. On the Wing, they make some sense especially if you use the crawl mode in traffic, but on the rest of the range I'd honestly just stick with the manual.

Lol. Yeah, I know what you mean. I know the owner (my older brother) and it has sat unused for over 6 years in his garage just collecting dust and not doing anything. Not entirely sure how many parts you could still get for it, being a G plate. Is also become one of those "born again bikers" that used to annoy me at the local greasy spoon meet ups. 😂😂 Used to live opposite a guy who had some aftermarket pipes on one of those, sounded like an anti aircraft gun on tick over...😂

Importing is such fun Cost wise take into account the full purchase cost plus postage, and allow for variable currency exchange rates depending on whether or not they charge an international £ price or your bank/card issuer converts - and the timing that they use to charge the conversion Those are the easy bits If you are very lucky the overseas retailer will be registered for UK VAT to cover UK sales over £135 and they annotate declarations appropriately - therefore customs treat it as if you bought in the UK But this costs them money and probably isn’t worth the effort. So add on 20%, but not necessarily to the declared sale + postage total converted at ‘todays’ rates on arrival. Packages may get reassessed to a UK equivalent price and VAT charged on that You shouldn’t get actual customs charges - but check the gov.uk website for the latest on item categories As the border handling carrier will be dealing with the assessment they will add their carrier handling fee. This could be a fixed price across a range of amounts depending on carrier, or it could be a percentage charge against the assessed value Add all those together, plus time and worry whilst watching tracking status and you will most likely be in the ballpark of a UK retail price (or more) ……… If what you want is not listed in the UK then start by calling some retailers and they may import on your behalf via their suppliers, commercial importing also comes at a cost but handled at a greater scale and they would be paying trade prices. A special import on your behalf may cost more than an equivalent UK retail item, but it comes with more peace of mind plus their risk. This also supports UK retail and gives you a point of contact for any issues ……. If you’re looking to save on UK retail then you often don’t really save anything or a much smaller amount saved than expected …….. Sometimes though it’s a matter of getting that special thing that isn’t available in the UK, or to be first to get it - but sometimes trying to be first ends up being last when it’s sat in a depot awaiting document clearance (Last year I spent $295 plus almost £60 in charges(£45.73 import VAT, £12 handling) with 3 weeks in transit / handling …. And picked it up at the depot on the way to the event I wanted to use it at, only just beating it being released for delivery.) * I used it twice last year and will be using it twice this year - £300 plus some worry so that I could ‘be that guy’ with the unique niche product There is also another elephant in the room - will it arrive to UK spec, and will it get identified as over powered at customs ? * little correction that I just remembered. I didn’t ‘beat’ the release for delivery, I was watching the tracking status wondering if it would clear in time for onward delivery - which it didn’t, and was in fairly regular contact with the help desk including clarifying if it would stay in situ once the final charge was calculated or get forwarded to my local sorting office. It was cleared on the evening before / morning of the day that I was leaving and a minor diversion on my route so I managed to pay and collect in person at Basingstoke on my way from Salisbury to London

No idea if that site is a legit seller but they are nothing to do with Tokyo Marui. They famously have nothing to do with anything outside Japan.

While i love TM kit above anything else, if i was looking for a full metal variant, I'd rate KJW stuff way above the the likes of WE etc.

Hi, I'm new here! <waits for applause to die down> I bought this gun from boneyard hoping to get a £130 pistol for £30. I ran a few BB's through it yesterday and pulled it apart to see if something jumped out at me. The mag inserts, seats, feeds fine. The slide is pulled forward with enough force to have everything in battery. The trigger pops the hammer, the valve releases the gas, the hop throws a BB out through the barrel, and the slide goes rearwards ... And that's where it goes wrong. The slide cycles limply a few times without firing a BB, then I have a gas spraying disappointment in my hand. I assume this is from cooldown. The culprit seems to be the valve knocker not returning with the slide cycling. The trigger bar is worn to silver, but doesn't look bad enough to need replacing (I could be wrong, I'm not an expert, so I've included pictures). To forestall a few obvious things: I'm on propane in a new mag, everything is lubed enough. The hop is applied. The barrel is clean, the hop rubber seals, the nozzle, slide, trigger, and hammer move freely. The knocker moves freely except when it's stuck in the forward position, which I'm pretty sure it shouldn't stay in after the first shot. Pictures are of the knocker with the hammer cocked, and with the hammer down. I've tried moving the knocker into the correct place manually but it seems to be catching on something. I don't know enough about this system to confidently say where or how it should sit, and what is stopping it, this is just my guess from knowing that it shouldn't be at rest depressing the valve with the hammer back. This is why I'm asking you, the kind people of the t'Interwebs for your help and opinions. More than happy to test anything you need to know. Thanks for any help offered. Worst case scenario here is I replace the trigger bar, then the hammer, then the other little fiddly parts until it works.

I would not buy anything from that company.

Pure theoretical question that is in no way related to anything in real life. If you sold a relatively low value item on the forum, and chose to save yourself 50-60p on postage with Evri rather than the standard and reliable Royal Mail, and that item then got lost (shock horror), would you refund the buyer as soon as possible as to avoid negative feedback or public shaming? Or, would you claim that you are the victim and make the buyer wait until Evri (the best logistics company ever) refunds you before passing that on to your buyer. Or, would you just refund the buyer up front as a common curtesy and worry about the refund from Evri in the background as it's your own problem for being as cheap as possible on delivery. Head spinner - opinions sought

Tbh, a brass cylinder isn't the worst, i'd take brass over alu any day. The key is internal bore quality, smooth and clean with no scratches, the enigma of e&l cylinders notwithstanding (they look like they should be crap due to machining marks but are anything but) Hmm, might be indicative of an issue. Aoe is one option, other is pme although if it's a stock box and motor then probably not the latter. Whilst a lot is said about aoe correction and the whole ethos of stuffing 5mm of sorbo into every gun you touch is kinda bs, it is worth taking some time to look at how the sector engages the piston and that it's a smooth pickup. I like to aim for flat-flat, ie the face of the tooth and the face of the piston meeting with full engagement. A good way can be to "feel" the pickup, assemble the box with the piston, cylinder and geartrain but no spring/tappet plate/col, then turn the box by hand and feel how the initial pickup of the piston is compared to once it's been picked up and being pulled back. Ak2m4 does shims to adjust aoe which are the best method imo, although you want to take care that the piston head can still centre on the piston properly if it needs a bunch of them. Consistent is good. It might be time to consider the spring, if you don't know what strength it is then it might be as simple as it's just wimpy, plenty of pews i've had with fps downgrades have been a case of pull the stock spring, slap in some coiled pasta and call it a day. Ofc springs aren't always going to be what their rating is on the packet, mis-labelling or different box configurations for preload can end up with quite a range, eg having a thrust bearing on both spring guide and piston versus no thrust bearings. That said, what you don't want is to be compensating for leaks by just throwing energy at the problem as it'll just beat up the box with no benefit so the goal is to get yojr energy target with the weakest spring you can. Generally the only downside to a longer nozzle is when it gets long enough to cause feeding issues by not clearing the feed tube, might be worth dropping the 21.03 in see what it does.

As others have posted, use it for at least 1 full game day before looking at potential upgrades. This will give a better idea of what, if anything, needs changing. That being said, the most likely things that'll need changing will be the hop rubber and spring. Fortunately these are both easily done

'The standard' is to turn your hop fully off then just go from the front. Long as you're not using anything abrasive and are careful/gentle/don't go ham fisted at it then it'll be absolutely fine, nothing adverse is going to happen.

I have had to shim the back of my baby Specna's mag well with layers of electrical tape to help some of my mags sit forward enough to feed. My ICS L85, DE M904 seem happy with anything. Our big Specna seems less fussy. The boy's ICS L85 is a little fussy, btu all he does it take the mag out and reinsert it.

What's your budget roughly? Knowing that will help us make specific recommendations The cheap red dots often have the problem of ghosting, this is where a second dot is visible due to reflections between the glass. If the dot is adjustable lowering the brightness can reduce the effect Anything by Acetech will be good. Alternatively the nuprol trasers are good but they're not as bright and don't have the extra functions Any cheap on from amazon will do the job. It's a sacrificial part so there's no point spending more than necessary I use the pistol mag size ones. No idea on the brand, sorry I know alit of people slag them off but I've never had any problems with nuprol batteries. Their chargers on the other hand I wouldn't touch with a barge pole. Alternatively turnigy or vapex

That looks like a Specna Arms SA-E23. If anyone knows i'm talking mad shit, please correct me, but the 'slots' you can see at the 3, 6 and 9 positions are m-lok. There's plenty of attachments that are m-lok. If you can't find m-lok attachments, there are m-lok to RIS rail sections that exist so you can attach just about anything. The top rail is standard 20mm RIS/RAS AFAIK which will accept just about most accessories.

Yeah fair point. Not done anything to it since I brought it off a seller. I think it was thrown together with bits from the Airsoft fair

Hey all, having trouble with my rig, can't figure out where these bloody straps go etc. How do you secure anything?