Sitting Duck

what is she firing at atm ??? not being funny but if your gun is that katana with 13 teeth sector m100 won't be enough m110 - might be getting you to about 325 perhaps on average if your sector/piston - though piston doesn't need to shortstroked usually but if on average 3 teeth have come off then you are looking at a m115-ish spring to equate to about 375-380 minus 45 (3 x 15fps) = 330/340-ish you don't need to do anything really if your gun is hitting say 320-330 - even with the spring change system - 20 or 30 fps is nothing use 0.25's should help improve accuracy - a 9.6v if using nimah and that is about it could look at motor change at some point and if/when it drops then can look at opening her up for a few basic tweaks but that gun should be fine as it is - it is no cheapy starter gun and tbh you or me for that matter could very easily make it worse So she what she fires at and try to resist the temptation to tweak stuff you don't need to

you do love them L85's don't ya - quality Blitish Gun made in China ??? Good on ya - like to see other guns rather than the M4 Fords of Airsoft prefer to get my ar$e handed to me by something unique rather than that little 12yr old $hit with a JBBG that keeps owning me

NO NO NO NO NO is my gut feeling.... The low joules, the screwed together 2 halves receiver indicates a plastic bespoke v2 box that will shred ok it has peq box - silly launcher n wotnot but tbh - NO NO NO NO NO even for parts.... They had a spartac AK with plastic cover for 100 Euro reduced to 57 Euro last month which f*ck me I was tempted to get coz worth that in bits @ £45 but had to resist even at 57 Euro or £45 !!!! 100 Euro I would say G36c (JG I think over a cyma) AK - cyma 028 or 31 or something - avoid the spartac or cyma 5xx ak's as plastic cover (well you could get it at a push if replacing with cover with ris/sights at some stage) Cyma 515 - plastic receiver but good internals or something like that but receiver is a bit cheap for abusive skirmishing in long term they are the cheapy guns I would say consider if you are a real tight budget There are offers on G3 type guns - ergh uhmm about getting one with a v2 box in there but think it is not much different really to a G36c Which unless you gotta have to have something different - think the 3 options above are perhaps the best cheapo options to consider Shame coz I keep falling in & out of love with G3 SAS folding stock - nah G36 - nah G3 - nah G36.....

In a word...... DON'T you got a nice gun so go easy on it tuning or go faster stripes/neon lights underneath or just general pimping up ya gun inside is NOT EASY !!!! The sound advice is keep it to a rof in the 20's - honestly reason - it will break quicker - fact the mags that work ok very likely likely won't feed at silly higher speeds more speed on higher springs to avoid PE will generate more heat and wear more volts/amp/current or I just use the general term - juice, more juice will melt your trigger contacts As a rough guide to moderate boost.... 7.4v lipo to 9.6v without a mosfet on stock motor you can swap the motor to a shs torque but for trigger contacts keep her to 7.4v or 9.6v absolute max Don't use shs torque with 11.1v lipo - without a mosfet at some stage... I would run the gun for a while trying to get a rof of up to 20rps - that is plenty you won't have any real problem, the gun will last longer and mags will feed ok To anybody thinking of going much faster the gun WILL wear quicker, mags misfeed plus a jammed bb running at higher speeds can cause major failure everything inside the box has to run so damn smoothly and a lot of experience is required to even get close to this (which I have so much to learn) my own recent rebuild I am going to probably drop from 30+ on 7.4v to about 25-26 using a shs torque as it just seems to mesh better with gears (plus hoping the mid 20's will mean it should last a bit longer - but I'm still not 101% happy with it even after spending a lot of time on her) Trust me - as an expert in breaking more guns than I have fixed/bodged - Go very easy and read up a bloody lot You have a nice gun that wasn't a cheap Combat Machine or something - so don't f*ck it all up by trying to take the pi$$ like I have done so many many times

luckily it should be a quick spring change..... ooops - might not have the Spec Arms spring change system I pictured..... (my bad) but it has one anyway it seems: http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152200031-Specna-Arms-SA-B02-carbine-replica.html shs m100 or Element m105 is my guess for what it is worth - welcome to forum sir (could of asked Gunfire to downgrade it for you anyway for free but lucky with quick spring change I guess)

SHS Torque or SHS/Rocket Airsoft Torque is a good all rounder see ak2m4.co.uk Think your gun might be short stroked a bit but lacking a mosfet but likely running on about a m110 to m115 atm if on 13 teeth sector: taken from TWG... A mosfet would be a wise upgrade at some point also then run what you like battery wise

uhm - gun is front wired so tbh, you ain't gonna improve upon it I feel without more money/time and possible rear wire or peq box I'm assuming you wanna replace it with a rail/keymod/up front... so your battery option(s) will have to be considered first I feel for a front wired gun - the handguard is pretty good, bit of room/length to get a variety of batteries in there comes with some mini rails don't wobble much at all - some delta ring RIS's and carbine handguards are as loose as f*ck by comparison yeah I like rear wired, but others say front wired guns are balanced better so guess it is what you prefer, but a stock tube battery limits your options if you think of rear wiring it I'd consider using it as it is for the moment, then when it needs a tweak/service/repair... THEN look at options of stripping it down and rebuild & rewire blah blah blah.....

Nothing wrong with them They are designed to serve a purpose and allow adults without defense to test the airsoft water Admit some colours are a little too vivid than others but without 2-tones I think less people would have got into it How many - don't know, but think less would of stumbled across it and took up peew peew to skirmish etc.... More people means more sites, market grows, bigger choice, better pricing etc...... To me, taking a bit of plinking a bit further got me into it and even though the JBBG was a bit pants - it was still good to plink around with Then a clear ICS - wow this is much better - ukara obtained...... My wallet has never looked so bare ever since.....

good player @ cqb site with a B500A1 would still kick my ar$e even with my Krytac from Hef yes good gun helps, but so does knowing your own limits and your gun's limit too (don't engage a sniper with a crap gun or try to take the whole team with a piggy - actually for some people that is their normal play style)

Great Player - kicks ar$e with just about anything Rich Poser - gets his PolarStar ar$e handed to him - goes home lunchtime not a happy bunny - gun must be playing up End of the day cheapo cyma's at £100 or £65 from TWG are very good value BUT for putting my name behind something I still say £123+ G&G as a safer investment - just Krytac at £300+ are a very sound build out of box - but at that price they should be actually - it highlights how other £300 guns are falling short Factor in a less common place guns eg: L85 and others and they will cost more than a £150 gun Still remains though - buy a gun from JBBG etc... - you will regret it is the general rule SRC starters do not beat Cyma or G&G Starters - I should know but a decent player can hold their own with almost any gun - it is player not gun that usually wins the game if you want cheapo guns - it is very risky but I can give you my own brutally honest opinion of some if you have to really know please don't buy the crap I bought when starting out....

Element m105 to shs m110 is my guess as it has 190/200mm barrel (actually go with shs m110 but not guarder as they tend to be a bit hotter than their ratings) current spring can be reduced correct AoE loses aprox 10-15 fps add bearing spring guide to add 15 fps Short Stroke option if 3 metal teeth on piston (1 tooth loses aprox 15fps) would be good to know what she is shooting atm - if just a smidge then AoE....

I think it is perfectly fine the way it all is..... Ireland - no ukara required - quite a bit of Europe don't need checks Australia - no airsoft at all Germany - lower and stricter guidelines US - sod it buy a firearm at Walmart in some states like Texas but Wine has to be bought in liquor store or seperate liquor dept ??? Yup - think UK's not doing too bad I think

What is "normal" ??? I love being weird / odd / unique - lets face it Anything us blokes are into - most of out friends & other half's/women will thing a bit strange Thank f*ck for being that bit weird / odd / unique I wouldn't like to be too normal anyway I like being unique or weird Airsoft - toy gun nerf upgrade outdoor COD, reliving my youth long gone by plus it is just another dumb ar$e hobby to spend money on according to missus - hmmmm I like messing about with stuff - always interested in how stuff works or what have I just broke better that pi$$ing it up down the pub, gambling, or couch potato etc.... Am I going to grow up and act my age - nope being a (skint) big kid is just too much fun

ICS has a weird mofo M4 stock tube mount too

don't run around - less rattle or if you like to sprint around a lot then your next loadout should be this: Olé

repair the E&L box if its w@nked normally the box that comes with gun fits the best or least hassle when you start replacing or mix n matching bits n bobs then a lot more attention to detail is required eg: fire selector plate or mechanism - well on AK's they can get a bit hit n miss to select 101% everytime start popping in other bits and you may find that can get worse - may have to use the E&L selector plate on cyma box or replace with cyma linkage for example if using a cyma box in a E&L AK (might be ok but the AK linkage "can" be picky or a little hit n miss at best of times) There are 2 nozzle lengths for AK's at least The E&L box should be better as I think it uses 8 or 9mm bushings or bearings Cyma - 7mm bushings This doesn't really matter but what with E&L is at the higher or mid-range of AK's so think I'd go with repairing the E&L box first tbh

^ this ^ is what I'm trying to explain to OP honestly it is not as easy or as cheap to build as you may first think

yeah basically - both is the answer mid caps also feed better at silly speeds though capacity means you can't spray and pray too much hi-caps - 1 mag lasts ya ages if you are travelling very light - like gun only - no pouches n not carrying the kitchen sink etc....

Gunfire.pl had this on offer at 57 Euro's that is £45 other deals on the "a little bit too cheap" AK's http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152203213-SRT-12-assault-rifle-replica.html http://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric/cm-520-cm?from=listing&campaign-id=19 but you are better off getting the other models from about 95 Euro's like I said ukara needed - don't bother trying to order one without - they do check so you will be wasting your time and theirs.... buy a box for £50 but there is still a load of bits n bobs to put together a fully working gun if you buy all the bits it will cost loads - sometimes it is easier to buy a complete gun or busted gun if you know what you are doing and have a box of spare bits and time yes you could buy that cyma box - but be very careful - actually try not think about putting it inside a JBBG pile of pooh even the Krinkov 901c or the Black Viper AK12.... Yes it will go - but the 901c has slightly different hop unit to conventional AK hops The Viper AK12 - yes we have done it for $hits n giggles but still a cheap easy to bust gun Just trying to give you the full picture of costings and time required to put together a gun from scratch don't want you getting 75% of the way through and getting the hump and try to sell it off for a lot less than you paid for it The building malarky is not as easy as many/most/all of us tend to think - it can be a pain in ar$e at the best of times - trust me

And the cyma from Airsoftworld would cost extra to 2-tone Get Raider £123 and 2-toned free from Zero One ps - best not to ask about under 18 and/or no ukara obtaining RIF's

you got ukara ??? http://www.taiwangun.com/en/electric/cm-506-cm?from=listing&campaign-id=19 cyma M4's are not bad but that plastic receiver isn't as good as a G&G Combat Machine for a bit more been donw this route on the cheap cyma's - not bad internally - honestly if the receiver was a bit less brittle feeling I would say up yours G&G completely but I gotta still suggest a Raider for a bit more tbh http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/27302-cyma-cm515-cheapo-plastic-keymod-aeg-l70-aprox/ yes they are great buy for £65 to £70 perhaps but if paying £100 or so - G&G (yes it may come with another mag - but what is that £6 value for a cheap extra plastic mag) it is a good offer - heck I'd say the box and barrel is maybe better than G&G but - hmmmm, nah still Raider has the edge - just

You got 2 choices: Rent a gun for 3 games - that is gonna cost about £20 to £25 for the hiring alone x 3 visits so that is £60 to £75 you ain't gonna see again.... And you may end up using the site's guns that have been used and abused more than some cheap whore.... OR Buy ya own starter - yes 2-tone or Imitation Firearm .... say £140-ish.... offset that against say £70 down the drain at least in renting sell gun for £90 - as long as you got £70+ you are breaking even new gun gotta be better than some old knackered g36 or ak a bit harsh some hire guns are fairly good but most have certainly been used and abused to say the least and dropped loads of times etc.... yes you can rent tbh and get a decent RIF I guess but the above example assumes you rent for bare minimum amount - if you go nutz then you can do say 5+ games in 3 months and that is more rental money down the drain in my book.... up to you and others will maybe suggest different - but what I did and numerous others 2-tone = so what, I know plenty of crap players with RIF's - me being one of them get out there with a gun - yours or a rental and get stuck in

G&G or ICS - 2-tone/clear M4's both are highly recommended M4's and easy to sell on when you get RIF or even keep as a backup gun - when you compare one of them to a sub £100 gun from JBBG you can clearly see the difference and understand what a proper aeg starts to look/feel/shoot like ok they ain't Tokyo Marui's but a lot more like a decent gun that a £60 springer will ever be

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/30038-budget-of-ll-lll-what-gun-to-choose/#entry232449 http://airsoftzone.co.uk/starter-packs http://www.fire-support.co.uk/category/clear-starter-packs/ or a G&G Raider for £123 2-toned for free from zero one (have to buy battery/charger/bb's/mask etc....)