Sitting Duck

Actually that is how you THINK it works... But in fact Whitehall try to influence the politicians They (Senior Civil Servants @ Whitehall) don't care who wins the GE not really, Whitehall simply gets new puppets to play with & pull the strings You might think this is bit far fetched, but suggest you watch some episodes of "Yes Minister" which many retired servants & politicians have said it was pretty accurate of how it all works

I think the suspension of sales at TWG is to do with VAT/WTO as well as shipment delays at ports (potential tariffs/duty/VAT issues) Once clarification takes place EU deal/no deal (so called Sunday showdown) (what another final last chance date AGAIN) Things will start to settle down personally I think there will be an ARRANGEMENT than an agreement as such (like NI, loose (very loose 3~6 month) arrangement for internal markets bill) Anything ordered after 17th you won't get for Chrimbo and even then not deffo by New Year with Holidays etc.... 11th January is a bit OTT to resume orders, but there could be clarification req depending on WTO/VAT arrangements to third countries outside EU Which need to official clarification from Polish/EU officials about tax/VAT (depending on UK/EU position on 1st Jan) So as government/official offices won't be back on 2nd Jan but say a week later then official clarification on VAT & Customs on BOTH sides etc... TWG have issued a statement for Monday 11th than Monday 4th Could be clarified sooner, could be storm in a teacup, very little could change (depends on what is actually decided) Told ya in another thread get ya orders in early December and if ya missed out on 10%/15%| BF discount then looks like you will have to wait it out Could suggest that TWG are pushing for any sales asap, give fence sitters a kick up arse but hmmm really think it is about VAT/WTO issue & paperwork for shipping/customs etc...

At 20rps you shouldn't need AB and you would tweak the pre-cock if required, when you experiment with settings for optimal response/preference. (Using some bells/whistles if required) The torque ASG will fire the 12:1 no problem even with a fair bit of pre-cock, to give great response using features etc... End of the day the slightly quicker 13:1 SHS/Rocket will work also, Just using the torque ASG on 12:1 to keep amps low, pairing them up for best combo imho, But end of day either will work fine, depends on what you seek in each gun. And like I said any difference between two options is almost negligible, All this crap is merely a suggestion - pairing shit up & all that end of day, But achieve similar builds around 20 mark. Others and/or ask me on a different day, on a different gun/build, I might go with 12:1 SHS if seeking the extra rps, But think if I had to make 2 similar decent snappy guns then I'd be inclined, to go ASG 12:1 etc...

The 18k rpm motors tend to be 27 tpa. 22 tpa motors tend to be 22k rpm 18/19 tpa tend be about 25k rpm. 16 tpa tend to be about 30k rpm. All of a sudden the 14 tpa motors tend to shoot up to 40k You can't quite lock all the same tpa motors in one speed rating, coz the swg or single wire gauge of enameled wire used varies in the windings on the armature etc... Some makes will use a slightly thicker/thinner gauge wire Plus the strength of the magnets and how precise the motor is built Higher end motors are soldered onto armature contacts and balanced Most China motors are simply crimped (after stripping away enamel) Some say the same motor with neodym magnets run slightly slower, than ferrite on NO LOAD as there is a stronger field, this may be true - but very slightly 500-1,000rpm on NO LOAD, under load this disappears as the ferrite motor is susceptible to load more. So in general mild use the motors is rpm terms perform about the same. When you start pushing it then you can use a GOOD ferrite motor, if you are on a budget and you shim well and ensure the box runs efficiently. Though often it is wise to use a good motor if you can run to it... Hence me commenting on all those higher end bits & you used a JG motor. The JG is a decent stock motor, has a bit more zest than say a G&G 18k, certainly more than an even cheaper stock China motor in cheapo gun. It works, you up to what 17rps maybe on 7.4v 13:1 on a 22tpa That is about right for the motor as I said... It is about a 22,000 rpm motor, some 22tpa's might get to 24k, if wound with a slightly thicker wire, some might be 20k with thinner wire. The ASG is about same spec but has more torque due to neodym magnets, (and higher build quality). The SHS / Rocket is a 16 tpa China motor crimped but with neodym, to produce 28k to 30k tops. The Neodym motors will have better response from still as the torque is greater, they start to turn under load almost instantly due to stronger neodym magnets, that a minor slower start with ferrite magnets. That is not to say ferrites are useless, they may stall if you try to pull m120/130, definitely stall on 7.4v but on 11.1v it gives the struggling motor a kick up the arse. You can use a ferrite on 7.4v mildly tweaked gun if done right, as if it is done well will be no more strain than so-so shimmed stock gun. The JG is about same Speed as the ASG, but ASG has a lot more torque/response. You can use either of those motors you got, choose one that gives the result you seek. Build another gun, try to plan & experiment to attain results you want in 2nd gun, then with what you learned apply to this first gun to see if you can do the same. The ASG with 12:1 will be just under 20rps, The SHS with 13:1 will be a little over it... That is how I would pair it up, If OCD kicks in, plan the ASG 12:1 setup for a gun where you can fit/use say bigger 30c. (Give it a whisker more zest perhaps). The SHS 13:1 in a gun with less space to use a 20c 25c 1500mah. Then they should in "theory" perform a little closer to each other, leaving you to decide which is the slightly better of the two. But both will be pretty snappy builds & tbh once you nudge 20rps, A couple of rps is hardly noticeable. Where as 12rps & you gain 2 extra rps - is more noticeable, On say 30rps going to 32 or even 33 it's fuck all, as you get into twenties, the odd round or two is negligible, it is more a case of how well it runs than if it fires a round or two faster

JG is 22tpa according to data a lot of OLD databases have dissappeared this requires google translate but says a lot about motors n shit... https://pmakiku.pic.fi/blog/57/aeg-moottorit-yms/ overspin is combated by Short-Stroking and/or Active Braking/Pre-Cocking (pro's n con's for all methods) you should be OK on a 300mm barrel up to say 24/25 rps before it starts to double fire (gun is talking to you), on most std guns with Cut Off Lever etc... The whole issue is to not run the gun TOO FAST - twenties is plenty get into 20's is nice, go above 25rps and you may need to consider Short-Stroking on a heavier spring to avoid PME You won't hit PME straight away, but you start to sail closer to it one little mis-feed/jam and the piston will be slowed on its return and likely rip fuck out of drive chain You might not smash shit until 30rps - depends on build/spring used etc.... I'm just telling you what risks there are at what speeds etc... and roughly how to plan the build, gears, spring, SS, motor, battery etc... If it was THAT easy then every gun would fire the same - but it is not a long AK requires a full stroke for volume , so can't really SS it shorter guns say 300mm can be short stroked and much shorter 141~233 can be DSG'd if you want to What you seek is something around the twenties - whisker under say 18 to 24 rps there are many ways to achieve this as I mentioned with gears/motor/battery etc... You could build an exceptional stock gun & run on 11.1v to hit 20rps aprox Or you use 13:1's & slightly better stock motor like JG 22tpa or G&G Blue "Powerful Motor" (basically the 25k Ifrit motor but with ferrite magnets not neodym) to get 18/19rps with good 16awg wiring deans etc.... or use a 30k motor to hit say 24rps with 13:1 as long as you don't go TOO NUTZ sticking to twenties up to say 24/25 tops you should be OK that is the limit I tend to go to, a smidge over 20 on 7.4v & happy as a pig in shit basically

just put the shs/rocket in there with 13:1 on 7.4v = golden or whatever sounds better tbh the ASG 22k = same rpm as JG (in theory) as both are 22tpa (me thinks) just the ASG is built to higher tolerances & neodym magnets to provide more torque under load what this means is performance as ROF will be the same (roughly) to what you are getting atm you could just run 11.1v on the JG for a while, will work as you not going too crazy muliply the 7.4v rof by 1.55 = expected rof on 11.1v with extra cell (it's a tiny bit more than 50% as the extra cell is boosting the gun already cycling on 2 cells) VERY VERY ROUGH ROF CALCULATION... MOTOR RPM (in 1,000's) divided by ACTUAL GEAR RATIO (then multiply by 10 = expected ROF on UK 340~350 fps gun) 22,000rpm = 22k 22 / 13.5 = 1.62962963 on 7.4v LiPo 1.62962963 x 10 = 16.2962963 (shift decimal point to right) 16.2962963 rps on your present build on 11.1v = 16.2962963 x 1.55 = 25.25925926 rps 30k Rocket... 30k / 13.5 = 2.22222 or 22.222 rps on 7.4v LiPo or 34.4444 on 11.1v LiPo as said ROUGH as ol' boots calculation as variation in motors, seals, shimming, amp draw etc... plus certain LiPo's their capacity and burst rate (20c is a bit lame, 25c or 30c is better for tweak stuff) wiring/deans and lots of variables will result in slightly varying results but a rough ball park figure of what you might expect in various builds

return it all as it is all shit think some of them G36's will not take regular mags Tell Dom at BBGuns4Less to stop selling shitty plinkers to newbie players raises hand - I found out the hard way by a Cyma cheapy gun cm.5xx or something from patrolbase if funds are tight - at least you'll get steel gears in a box you can repair than plastic gears that will shred first sign of a jam/lockup

not laughing at you get scammed btw, but you quoting Airplane's Jive ass dudes stuff too

Think I remember seeing some of them on AliExpress and got me thinking that's daft ergh actually maybe not after reading the issues with some motor shorts (Systema etc...) Also the wafer thin washers on G&G's often cracked if you tightened them just a whisker too much so looked at better robust washers and thought - hey them plastic mofo's... if we replaced just one of them steel bolts with a plastic one - that would limit the short occurring and then remembered your advisory for Titan AB on certain motors blah blah blah (might be worth investigating a bit for Titan AB mofo's) plus worth checking the condition of any insulation washers if not replacing one bolt to plastic (even for non-AB peeps) I think they shouldn't have stopped doing the CORE motors - they were easy access but no short risks 2 tiny screws each side (4 in total) polarity was fucked up on some motors but hey ho if ya knew to check... Some other motors used this style, think I got an SRC neodym with them tiny screws in there it is just them G&G/SHS type that seem to be the norm now, that "could" have a short risk if insulation fails due to that lockring conducting & shorting out, I mean very common now on most motor types but some versions might not be assembled so carefully or thin washers like on G&G grey 18k's

lemme guess - you install a basic mosfet but one with AB perhaps that stopped the gun asap with COL slightly still raised the AR latch might not be engaging 101% every time had it when thick wires running from rear on a G&G slightly rubbed or touched the back this would cause the ARL to slowly return and rollback (not Asda) would occur or a different example is when doing DSG's the ARL has to grab very very quickly so the tip is reduced and checked to ensure it is exactly right size/length to grab the bevel latch immediately straight away seigetek stuff... daft question - you did install the ARL as some early fancy mosfets with AB think the BTC suggested that the ARL latch could be removed yeah that didn't work out too well when people tried it & had to replace the ARL if you hold the grip you will feel the motor thrashing about - it is likely a loose fitting in grip bits of tape, squidgy rubber to stop the very excessive play in grip/motor might help bit of a bodge but might work to reduce some thrashing about on semi perhaps

if he has used the SHS bevel with 6 latches on a 13:1 set 4.5 rotations of bevel to 1 sector revolution x 6 latches = 27 latches per cycle 4 latches on a 18:1 or 6.25 rotations = 25 latches per cycle if my maths are correct - but ARL might not be fully engaging 101% though I suspect the tower on motor is say a thin 9mm or 9.2mm diameter & the entry hole in box/grip is say 9.65mm - allowing a bit of flap to begin with then the motor is a bit small/thin inside a wide grip so motor has opportunity to slop about when you pull the trigger - it throws itself about resisting against meshing with bevel exactly until it settles down and behaves, then when cycle completes it lays where the base plate is try to place it some base plates throw angle out a bit differently and the actual hole where the end bell sits can be snug/loose on different motors too all this adds to slopping about if your motor/grip choice is poorly made allowing the slack to create the slight thud ARL is usually a slightly whirring as it rolls back - or look at piston at rest if box has rear window to see if creeping backwards often if ARL is ineffective FUCK IT - said I was taking day off

start on other gun perhaps... get two kinda working and you can fine tune the one you are less happy with yes M4 motor grips are a wank at times some flop about loads & other quite solid & tight bit of advice - try not to fuck about with different grips perhaps often some of the best or most compatible grips came on the original gun (not always) but usually people go back to the stock grip once they find their cool look fake magpul grip is a pile of shit or the aftermarket base plate is shit fit NOPE NOT GOING TO WRITE A WAR & PEACE NOVEL ON PISTOL GRIPS & MOTOR TOWERS i'm leaving it there - take a day off it's Sunday Duck

I'd give a bit of time to bed in a bit with firefly nub etc.... I have gained a little tiny bit of "wisdom" perhaps coz I've broken so so many guns learning from our mistakes is essentially how you acquire wisdom (or other people's mistakes, but usually our own) wise after the event/fuckup as they say ^^^^ THIS sums up shitty toy guns (and other stuff) pretty well imho ^^^^ but try stuff out at times, just to be sure is no bad thing just learn from your mistakes (hopefully the less costly ones) it is just mostly same ol' same ol' tried & tested stuff most of us have read and learnt ourselves to be so with a few variations on the gospel according to the peew peew of airsoft really at first many of us wanted a 30rps or dsg gun now many look to twenties is plenty - smidge either side of it with most of us listening to how smooth it cycles, wondering what amp it draws etc.... than how friggin' fast the wanker's gun shoots but we try to do it to the best of our abilities in the hope we improve as we go (that is the theory but doesn't account for the odd nightmare or two we all still have sometimes)

Rocket will offer more performance/rof may draw say 15a on a auto burst say where as the ASG is going to draw less amps, deplete battery less, run bit cooler 3rd motor - I can't place it so can't say how it compares looks like it might have a mark/drill mark to balance armature like a decent motor but unaware of spec/magnets/tpa to say where it might sit vs Rocket/ASG the amp draw on what these fancy bollox ECU's might say in spec varies to a power meter coz these fancy fuckers draw some current themselves & report differently to a simple power meter so the estimated 15a is a RC Power Meter on auto burst - Titan/Jefftron may report differently but you compare what the unit says for each motor than take as gospel my figures from these... One possible minor issue is with these G&G/SHS type motors... By that I mean the way the end bell is fitted, with a ferrous lockring then 2 x usually m2.5 screws screw into the lockring from end bell cap they should have a plastic washer under them to insulate the poles (otherwise you effectively have a short or risk of shorting if washers fail) The m2 or m2.5 bolts can fail to fully centre & have one side conducting & if both conduct - well you are in for shock - excuse pun Possibly why @ak2m4does mention a possible warning about using Active Breaking in some builds like Titans/Jefftron's etc.... Advisory:I've been hearing reports of Gate Titan Adaptive Active Break function is causing motors to fail. Please do not use this feature till you are sure it will not affect the motor. Now what anybody who is experiencing this could try... is to replace ONE of the screws with a PLASTIC m2.5 bolt and/or ensure bolts are centred correctly no risk of touching brush plates adding a better/thicker more robust plastic m2.5 washer if unsure (reason for just ONE is that the neodym magnets will just pull the damn lockring downward if you remove both and the length is a bastid to get exactly right to bite and pull the lockring up) you can do both but just one will suffice to ensure no short risk across poles think they are 2.5mm - though on some they are m2, usually m2.5 I think but does vary TL-DR, it can be an issue on fancy ECU's if you use AB on "some" motors (cheaper motors like JG, most stock motors and "maybe" ZCI 22tpa use "tabs" at sides than 2 bolts/lockring, so no short risk on tabbed motors) and I suspect it could be due to the lockring system allowing a risk of a short which under AB where polarity is reversed to stop motor... the flash bastid monitoring system of ECU is saying Houston we (might) have a problem... (just my thoughts on these type of cans/motors - originally shorts were happening in flash expensive Systema Motors a while back and there was a couple of fixes/work arounds though anodised - it was the conductive bolts, brush plates & lockring causing the short if any insulation failed or bolts touched the sides of brush plates etc...) There was other stuff like a piece of insulation tape under plates - not needed for plastic ends (nah really it was the screws shorting on lockring if not properly insulated - try 1 plastic bolt) Anyway.... there are 8t, 9t (not sure about 11t but possible, and 12t bevels but nigh on most are 10t bevels that are used as the std spec for bevels minor alterations in gear ratio matters little in most cases though the ratio is obviously a factor, but difference between 12:1 & 13:1 is like 16:1 (17.25:1 in most 16's) to 18:1's (18.65) - hardly any big massive difference The Maxx is "likely" to be more compatible as Prowin can be picky for some people/builds Both are not cheap - perhaps overpriced on the genuine ones (Prowin) and snides can be a gamble Plus you using prommy, which can have protruding bucking lips and plop that in a Prowin and you could be looking at feed issues from bb catching on prommy lips you wanna fuck about with stuff... get this... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-chambers/zci-rotary-hopup-chamber-plastic-m4 I recently bought a clone SHS Blue rotatry hop with a TWG order... and on closer inspection the arm was different with a built in nub like pic shows... ok not the blue plastic hop unit but arm is similar yeah but that's good right ??? NO it ain't that is hard plastic and I'm stuck with that nub on it so if that hard plastic nub tears up a maple leaf or prommy or half decent bucking leaving me stuck with it - I'm gonna be pissed, plus a softer nub option is best rather - I'll fucking decide the nub and its hardness - thank you TWG hopefully real SHS or ZCI rotary hops are still have the arc'd arms so yeah, I'd be tempted to grab a ZCI one first and build a new hop,bucking,barrel combo (leaving existing one intact in case you have issues) fuck about with ANOTHER hop/barrel combo, leaving your existing working one as is (in case you fuck shit up or tear bucking) you don't HAVE to use all high end parts, usually they have better tolerances to them but also care & attention to detail is in fact more important than always buying the higher end stuff but watch out for prommy lips catching/fouling in some hop builds/combos as always be careful just how much or how nutz you go all at once... change what you NEED to, if it ain't broke & all that otherwise you will be opening more & more cans of worms/issues to attend to

Rocket's are supposed to be same or nigh on as SHS HT Originally green, think they might be slightly slower say 28k than 30k though manufacturing variations exist from these high precision sweatshops there have been revisions to Rockets - now have vents on some motor cans but they are believed to be about 28~30k like SHS HT's SHS HT's vary, they used to have the wolf on them but now a logo for a number of years something between 25k to say 33k is quite popular for a godd trade off in power/response without draining your battery asap like insane High Speed motors tend to do 12:1 over 13:1 is fuck all really, the aprox 8% change in ratio drops to say 5% due to slight increase to load so if 13:1 rolls ok with motor of choice I'd be in no rush to change much I mean you could mess with a slower 9t bevel - or change a 9t for a quicker 10t bevel but usually most sets come with 10t bevels, though SHS do list sets with 9t in them (majority are 10t bevels, people change to 9t for a slightly slower, more torquey option or if wanting a 13:1, really 13.5:1 to go to a 14.85:1 ratio if smidge too quick/straining) nah fuck messing around with ultra fine tuning ratios that much more important is how it runs than trying to go ultra nutz in a quest for that missing 1 or 2 rps extra

So you got deans, but like I said my gut personal feeling is the fancy ECU bollox do skim a smidge off the only possible area is the motor had a bit of carbon build up on it being s/hand which (no offense btw), is kinda weird you spent all that time/money but then went for a s/hand motor (black ferrite or silver neodym magnets ???) if you was using SHS gears then just use a SHS HT motor is a general rule of thumb as they will mesh well though the shimming of bevel to pinion is slightly different to present JG perhaps not very different in way/angle the pinion is cut, but could still be a smidge different as all pinions go if you drop a SHS HT in there you should be up to around 23/24rps and depending if you have alter the motor height much will indicate if you need to really re-shim bevel but the performance isn't that bad normally I aim for hitting near 19/20 coz less chance of releasing trigger too early leaving COL raised (semi) As you got bells whistles, the gun will always complete cycle no matter what in semi etc... and the response can be improved with a bit of fancy pre-cock if motor is OK with it (might struggle with insane pre-cock, but test/adjust for best response with JG) nice gun/build, but did you run out of money for motor with Chrimbo approaching ??? just kidding hop thingy is probably it bedding in I expect (or you got piss poor mixed weight bb's)

The performance now @ 16.7rps is probably about right for spec of motor... JG blue/black is supposed to be a 22tpa so a slight smidge quicker than most stock motors (probably 22tpa is 22k motor) (a little behind an ICS which is supposed to be about 19/20 tpa, but still slightly better) (ICS 2000 say is about 25k) most stock motors tend to be 26~27tpa a whisper more torque but weak ferrite magnets mean these motors can stall easy if old/dirty and attempt to pull stronger springs/pre-cocked However motor is s/hand and likely a bit of carbon on it, so robbed you of hit maybe 17~17.5rps and you wouldn't get a massive amount more even with thick rewire, no breaks etc.... (you'd never really break the 20rps barrier - close to it but just wouldn't on 7.4v 340fps well you might hit 21rps if you could get excellent seals, m95 or so with a creepy long tight barrel etc... but that would be with everything going your way, massive wind behind you and ton of luck) realistically nah, 17.5rps there abouts is about limit of what you can squeeze out So where you are is about right-ish all things considered imho you could squeeze a bit more out going the extra mile - but not a MASSIVE amount What you "could" have done.... if your gun was shooting @ say lame 12~13rps on 7.4v then see if you can add a flyback diode on the motor then run on 11.1v (reduces the arcing at switch for non-mosfet guns) then you would go from 12~13 rps to say 19rps, perhaps nudge 20rps on 11.1v a quick boost - diode should be fitted if no mosfet though, for little time/work What is the gun anyway ??? coz some guns need a bit more attention to some areas than others G&G std piston head is shit full stop Cyma cylinder head is crap, piston is good but o-ring must be replaced JG on the other hand have pretty good std seals/compression by comparison so if/when you open the box you check this crap to attain best possible efficiency (which once improved means better energy so more power less strain = better performance) This is how you attain max/better performance all round than simply drop beefy motor/gears/spring in Not bad numbers, could have got a smidge higher, if you gone nutz with OCD like moi but sceptical if I could break the 20rps barrier - even going to town on it with 7.4v on motor industrial wiring, no breaks, perfect seals, mosfet, deans etc... 30c 7.4v etc..... NB: I presume you are using deans on the gun ??? my rambling brought up the connection and unsure as Nuprol's seem to come with Small Tamiya Upgrading to deans will add 1rps more over Small Tamiya & will be a slight choke point/resistance area if still using & expecting more performance again what gun - as some guns have micro-switches than regular trolley switches and those guns really do need a mosfet if looking to run 11.1v or more demanding stuff/motors But yeah - hope you got deans on the gun if looking for max efficiency/zest in ya build (coz tamiya do rob ya a bit in terms of performance) so get somebody who can solder to swap to deans if you are still on ST connectors EDIT - Ares Did you have to put a magnet in sector gear for ECU thingy ??? wiring should be OK - is it on deans already ??? if it is ECU - well imho these extra circuit bollox do nick a little bit of juice the max rof on old school guns is often a whisker higher as the electric bollox is drawing a little current offset by added features from unit barrel is say 275 aprox, so need a m105-ish spring, maybe a faded m110 (roughly speaking, depends on stroke/port, spacers in piston, spring guide blah x 3) pdi 150 is more like a m120 so if used a stronger spring that robs you of rps (at least another round per second, maybe a bit more even) all these things add up in the end, adding to load/efficiency of the gun and effect its overall performance - but efficiency generally covers it all (hence efficiency is an important foundation of unlocking gun's performance) again not a bad result all things considered we are all still learning and looking to squeeze out the absolute max efficiency (as Tesco says - Every little helps)

Where ever people stand on this issue... Let's not drag AF-UK down into some squabbling shitshow so many other places have become Remember the OP just joined & dropped this grenade upon us forums/social media are full of agitators pushing their BS to stir up more shit & division

Sir - I say to you politely... Just don't go there Re-read my post and study what I was really alluding to

What I find somewhat amusing... Other forums are all over this like Karen's with a rash Stuff like vilifying anybody who doesn't fully support wearing a mask/lockdowns Condemning others that support or attend lockdown protests Anyone who has any slight sceptism about the vaccine(s) is Alex Jones nutjob etc... etc.. etc... Now the vaccine is starting to arrive the number of these "Karen's" who are now all of a sudden back peddling with excuses why they can't really get vaccinated due to their own personal underlying health condition ??? Now people can make their OWN choices & decisions, all fine by me & I'm not going to scream my own personal beliefs at people But after all the screeching from some Karens around towards others then to see them announce their own excuses for not taking up the vaccine I'm left thinking somewhat... What people decide is THEIR choice (even the possibly hypocritical Karens)

sir we are all STILL LEARNING - with every bastard issue with these bastard toy guns present yup at times these guns are bastards, bastard coated bastards

To be honest I've never really bothered to test a stock gun. Just a tweaked gun usually starts at around 11a to 17a. The Cyma motor is 27 tpa but weak ferrite, has some torque from 27tpa that keeps amps low, but moment the weak magnets go under load these ferrite motors can stall on a m110/120 spring. Due to long barrel, bit of creep, you probably only need m95/100 to hit 350fps. The gun is shooting then leave it as is, it was to get a rough idea to see if a large draw was blowing the polyfuses. As such, it seems the polyfuse is shit and a simple 25a to 30a mini fuse will be easily enough to provide protection without tripping/blowing regularly. All it was, to get a very basic benchmark, to study the amperage rising & falling requires more equipment & in the end matters little how detailed it all is for most of us. It starts at 80a at first then drops/rises etc.... If it blows a fuse, ergh it blows the fuse, end of the day we are just checking the average draw to compare against. Bit like studying the kinetic energy & bollox on joules/weights, in the end we want it near the site's limit but just under the chrono in most cases, than an Open University course in the study of BB mass & Magnus bollox. If it shoots straight, stays airborne, hits the target most times that will do with the actual scientific study crap. Gun is not drawing silly amps, so the fleabay polyfuse is shit it seems, fit the blade fuse & you are golden

To clarify the advice given.... The question was asked how to stop the bushings falling out ??? I gave the response to epoxy them in & note a cheap Poundland epoxy rather than JB Weld or something A light smear & I have been able to remove a couple of epoxied bushings easily by a gentle tap - though there have been horror stories of cases cracking/chipping when trying to remove an epoxied bushing (must have used industrial strength by the boat load) The instance when a 13:1 spur was too thick to shim & had to place a bearing on top of spur thus had to remove a bushing & replace with 8mm bearing instead The expoxy suggested is hardly industrial strength & if a light blow failed to shift it then place the casing in warm soapy water will assist its removal If bearings/bushings or whatever are loose enough to fall out then have fun trying to shim that box easily if they do not hold in place whilst pushing on axles etc... Like correcting AoE, how much & what you use, ptfe for cylinder heads... what wiring, mosfet/ECU system you use, your preferred motor/gear setup along with your own personal rof, bb weight/mass - and fuck knows what else like brand of toy gun etc... It is ALL down to your personal choice/preferences like nigh on most things in airsoft/life What I do, is not gospel nor set in stone as I have altered & changed a number of things I do now compared to say 6 years ago or even a few years ago, plus each box presents different issues along with the various components that work/don't work as they should If the replacement bearings/bushing fit snuggly there would be no real need to fix them in place however as the old ones are removed, sometimes they needed a little coaxing to come out, that in turn will add a little wear that even the exact same replacements may not fit quite as snug as the originals did from the factory/sweat shop, so what to do if faced with loose bushings ??? (and the term loose is open to interpretation - if it is as loose as fuck then you need to try other bushings or something before maybe looking for a new/less worn shell for example or some method to ensure centred better before trying to affix them) But loose bushings will make it a little awkward to shim up imho and numerous people decide to epoxy them in if they are not quite a snug fit others are dead set against it & that is fine it is their call/gun in the end Same as epoxy-ing a steel rack in the piston, by default some pistons already come affixed/epoxied sometimes they are affixed poorly, other times the rack comes out very easily - even quite loose in some so when you might removed 2nd tooth you have the choice to refit or affix/epoxy the rack in like bushings (call it peace of mind, call it what you will, but your call all the same) The epoxy was a cheap mild glue & method to affix loose bushings & if done correctly can be removed OK (an old chunky spur gear (top side), comes in handy to push in the bushings and to assist in removing old ones) To each their own as they say, but I epoxy them in and have been able to remove them without damage (when required) I do not consider myself as the divine word on stuff, merely what stuff I do (at present) and my own methods are constantly being reviewed & updated as I go though I've been expoying stuff in where required for quite a while - my own personal choice btw if bearings/bushing fit in all snuggly, then I probably wouldn't need to epoxy them invariably I find in many cases they can fit in a little too easily & so I will add a smidge to hold them in place (just so they stay put for shimming and not lift out still attached to gears when opening gearbox shell etc...) Your gun/box - your choice as they say

Is that an Ares gearbox with the EFCS ECU bollox ??? I thought the box was an APS or did the bloke fit an Ares magnetic thingy in there or is the box an ares v2 - I dunno, a right pile of confusion going on as to wtf it all is if so the sector has a magnet to detect its position & stuff so you had to (of a sort), keep the Ares sector which the 18:1 & 16:1 sectors are same thus the bloke plopped in a SHS 16:1 spur and "likely" kept the CA sector with the magnet in one of the holes The washer behind piston was to likely correct AoE a bit more as the silent/mushroom piston head & matching cyclinder (if used) would make it difficult to adjust with sorbo/normal rubber pad the silent head has a little tiny squish to it anyway - so adds so impact resistance so bloke probably thought - fuck it just add a slight spacer between piston & PH to correct AoE - though tbh them piston heads are quite chunky on their own and I found they seem to PARTIALLY correct AoE anyway I don't use them as I feel the vents in PH don't allow the o-ring to push out like other PH's but others use them, they don't muffle quite that much, they offer a tiny bit of impact cushion (but not a massive amount) Looks to be a SHS piston & I do not like those pistons... way too little actual rails for my liking - I like nigh on full solid rails (especially in "windowed" boxes, just my own personal OCD I guess) but too little actual rail on those SHS pistons for my liking even the swiss cheesed pistons... I only like to use them is say a G&G non-windowed box where box has uninterupted rails so to speak but that SHS piston... nah not got one, nor do I intend to get one for lack of rails (soz but absolutely shit way to lighten a piston imho) Another thing with SHS pistons... They BIND - quite often in numerous boxes Except for G&G's, most boxes will need a little sanding to stop SHS pistons binding especially at full retraction on the last couple of teeth I found So just something to be aware of SHS pistons bind in APS... As I said, some money had been spent on this gun at some point but think it was assembled by an inexperienced tech or a few bad techs have had a go at it A good result you getting refunded some money to help fix the issues some of things I can understand as to perhaps this/that was performed but above all else palming off a botched gun onto somebody I can not get my head around good result all round, should finally get the gun you wanted/deserved at last