Sitting Duck

Surplus Store in Crawley is another either shop or when you go to a local site be inquisitive and nosey and oooh that looks nice.... people love to show off their guns so you may even get a chance to hold and take a few shots with a gun you like look of just avoid JBBG and sites with BB in their names selling crap to younger players or complete idiots (like moi - I bought some crap from there so avoid)

New members or players section... The guides / stickies I know people say read or search but they REALLY REALLY REALLY CONTAIN LOADS OF INFO (wish I read them before diving in and buying JBBG crap) Honest 99% of what you need to know/ask is there Welcome btw to grown up toy gun club

if ya 18 and played a few games then get ukara then at Airsoft World a good consideration is a 30th edition GC 16 http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc16-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-black.html but tbh there are loads and loads of options - that is just say 1 of about 5 G&G M4's that are nice get ukara - if you are 18 played a few times then it would be daft to get a 2-tone have a look and read up - compose a list and like I said we can tell you pro's n cons of each one

AEG for first gun G&G Combat Machine if you like M4's (well they also an AK in that range) read Ian's guide to noobism in new players section for loads of great - no brilliant info have a look of possible guns - G&G, ICS, Cyma, JG etc.... compose a list of possibles and we can give you our thoughts on pro's n con's r u 18 ? are you getting defense/ukara or two tone

and the popular "being an ego dick head" showing it off in public to ya m8's coz they not got maturity or responsibility or respect for out sport/hobby/toy guns Spiteful to wildlife - kind of crime and/or being a dick covers it I guess As well as a poor attitude - again being a dick thinking with little logic/common sense "it's my gun I can do what I want with my airsoft gun" crap.... Luckily there was some good sites of FB that did try to monitor and kept reminding people about age/defense etc..... And in the same style all we can do is remind people selling to try and carry out a few checks please in accordance with the law soz - you guys already covered what I was saying already - just trying to protect our peew peew peew's really

Thing is we all sometimes have a moan about this n that from time to time.......... but without the newer members - often making same noobie mistakes/posts we all did This place can get a bit quiet tbh Its a good mix on here - sometimes I feel we are too noob friendly but we all had to start somewhere I used to be a trainee noob but now feel I had gained a little wisdom so that I can call myself an apprentice noob instead As long as we don't have so many ukara/vcra wars like what we have had on occasions - noob on chaps no I'm not assuming all FB people joining up are noobs - referring to them as "new members" I should be (ah bollox - sometimes I can't be ar$ed to tip toe around being politically correct n crap - noobs it is) Actually excuse the typo's about me - I'm not a noob - I'm a nob

Or buy a poxy DSG FireHawk - no semi - no lockup can't use it in cqb but it don't lock up - well until it busts in theory it happens on most boxes and the L85/R85 with precocking lock up too it is just something that new users and slower responsive guns can happen more frequently if releasing trigger in wrong place/too early

I'm getting a Mr Blobby loadout next time

Deffo twice a year minimum - screw NAE the AF-UK is a type of thing we can all just turn up & peew peew everyone no ego's - just having a blast like the big kids we all are As a smoker - I was wishing I got myself a vape kit (think tbh vaping should be in one room out of the two rooms in safe zone) Anyway - if I can vape then I can stay inside more next time and have a chat more with you guys putting names to faces better Perfect - could of been a bit longer but some travelled a fair way and others were playing next day for whole day so them 5hrs went quick but what a nice chilled out laid back time - good laugh & all One bloke in peacocks - I saw his reflection in a mirror on a post/pillar gotcha ya bastid, spun round nobody there - wtf ??? in actual fact I must have seen his double reflection off a couple of mirrors and he wasn't where I assumed he was he saw some duck looking the other way searching for something that wasn't there - by the time I sussed out my bell-end mistake.... Out for a duck - again, what a plum I must of looked brilliant - cheers guys

No one missed me - I got shot to $hit if I failed to acknowledge the odd hit on my fat ar$e or chubby belly or flappy arms/sleeves I'm soz Anyway Andy / Sacarathe has met played at TWA a few times best thing is - get another meeting on in May and we should remember each other more (not that I'm gonna pick out curtains with any of you lot but I'm up for another meet up say 1 to 1.5hrs drive from London)

thought it was user error then squeeze trigger harder & harder.... crack - ooh heck = now it's broke

Can your own team shoot you too - I'm a bitch (also think 33% of my kills were against my own team I'm that $hit)

depends on the task - ferrite motor low volts = stock guns once you start putting more juice through or drawing more juice like neodym motor etc - NO if you can't squeeze in 16awg - turnigy 16awg is quite fat, Eco wire is a bit thinner on 16awg or failing that: http://www.taiwangun.com/en/silicone-wires/2-meter-wire-with-low-resistance-ipower?from=listing&campaign-id=19 you can get it on fleabay I think if you look around http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/POISONAPPLE-AIRSOFT-SILVER-WIRE-CABLE-2M-UPGRADE-/221991832360?hash=item33afbe8b28:g:hBwAAOSwEK9T0XUX but 18awg gets quite warm quickly when you start pushing it a bit through gun well that's my thoughts on the matter The silver wire is a little bit under 16awg - normally the wire itself on 16awg goes from 1.3mm to 1.5mm aprox it varies depending on make/type/accurate conversion from imperial to metric just measure some silver wire I got to hand and seems to be 1.2mm thick according to component shop on fleabay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-metres-16AWG-Silicon-Wire-Super-flexible-high-temp-RED-BLACK-BLUE-YELLOW-/230877513949?var=&hash=item35c15f48dd:m:mD68K7bY1o_ExJUrN9ZHNWw 18awg silicone comes out at 0.8mm so it is a deffo improvement that silver wire @ 1.2mm over 18awg wire and on some gearboxes 16awg silicone with 3.1mm thick insulation can be a bitch to fit on some boxes like G&G v2's I found some other brand of wire that is a smidge thicker wire but slightly thinner silicone insulation - 2.75mm Vs 3.1mm but still a bitch to get into G&G's and requires some filing or good ol' dremmel adjustment

it is the dead zone as I tend to call it... usually happens on a slower running stock gun at 12-13rps though it can happen on any gun but at slower speeds in semi - taking longer to cycle people take their finger off trigger a tad too early if that happens and the cut off lever is still raised it won't fire in semi properly until you go to auto - fire it a bit to move the sector/cut off lever so it settles then you can fire in semi again DO NOT FORCE IT IF IT WON'T FIRE IN SEMI - YOU WILL BREAK IT learn trigger discipline or get gun to run a bit quicker say 20rps and should happen less often it can still happen if selector plate, cut off lever worn, tiny cut off spring missing or weak, the whole thing not operating correctly etc... but usually new players run into this semi firing issue coz they don't know about it - force it and balls stuff up easy to reduce it happening by ensuring you don't release trigger that smidge too early

yes it is nice to get it right first time - but even better to persevere when things don't go according to plan hopefully learning from mistakes is how we acquire wisdom or Launching the f*cking thing down the garden - yeah come very very close to that (actually on different projects I have just lost it now n then over the years) We are all still learning - I know I am

1 RPS increase: don't sound much but demonstrates how much small tamiya is choking the flow of juice (ooh ergh missus get them juices flowing) on a gun a bit more beefed up small tamiya is holding ya back even more so (being yanks it is maybe running on higher juice to begin with but all the same stock gun stock wiring....) 11.1v 12c - 12c ???? that is a bit lame 20c to 30c is a decent punch burst rating, maybe as gun is not fetted he might be going easy all the same when running neodym motors and thicker wires drawing more juice a mosfet is highly highly recommended In actual fact there isn't such a massive expense as people make out if you look around.... Basic B3 chargers are no worse or no slower than some of the basic £12 nimah chargers you can pick up china ones for about £3 to £5 and need a 11-18v 1.0a psu nicked from old router/modem (though tbh don't bother getting these lame lipo chargers get mains B3 or a B6 type) Better mains B3 are about £10 to £12 - bit better, some crappy clones out there to be careful if buying on fleabay (B3's still only charge through the small balance leads so are slower but quite foolproof usually so easy to just pick up & use) Then there are B6 type and B6 AC - the first B6 needs a psu 11 to 18v but min 3.0a to 5.0a psu - possible laptop psu ?? Clone B6's start about £12 upwards but advise going to get genuine B6 charger tbh not much more from hobbyking uk/eu I have clones but have tested it and only slightly slightly undercharges but a lot quicker than a B3 type lipo charger (a bit of manual reading is a good idea - can charge all sorts of stuff and adjust loads of settings - yeah good idea to have a read first) Batteries - lipo's have the edge and are in general no more expensive - reckon cheaper than what Zero One and others would charge ya for a nimah battery....... Only exception if your gun likes running on about 9.6v - inbetween 7.4v & 11.1v lipo yes there is LiFe @ 9.9v but tbh the range is quite limited and imho the LiFe's don't offer the same raw grunt as LiPo's So in my mind LiFe's are not really all that I first thought they would be.... A neo motor on 7.4v or if a slow motor use 11.1v (mosfet is very good idea on higher juice) When you make the jump you will see for yourself I reckon eventually nimah's tend to lose their ability to hold charge as they get old - more than lipo I'd say Lipo's you don't let then run down too low 3.0v or damage to cell will occur.... 7.4v - you will deffo know when she is getting low on juice @ 6.0v 11.1v - hmmm not so easy on 3 x 3.0v = 9v but end of day get alarm or know ya gun and change lipo at lunchtime the cells go up to 4.2v = 8.4v on a 7.4v - danger @ 6.0v or 12.6v on 11.1v lipo - danger @ 9.0v don't pop holes in lipo or they explode - burst into flames but just common sense stuff really nimah's can be run right down without damage but often they lose their ability to hold charge for very long or 1 out of 7 or 8 cells craps out and it just refuses to charge properly well that is what I have found on some of my nimah's Disclaimer - though I say you "can" use other psu's for these lipo chargers.... It goes without saying you need to have a tiny bit of common sense, a test meter AND know how to use these items if you can't check/confirm voltage and polarity etc... then buy a proper psu for ya charger or buy the AC versions I am not responsible if you blow $hit up coz ya too stupid to do a few checks first not rocket science - just common f*cking sense chaps

Guarder SP's are reported to be 30fps more than other makes of springs http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/43-longrange-aegs/6447-list-springs-vs-fps-output.html SHS's are more expected output spring but Guarder ones have been know to be a bit out on the rating as for % rating - nah I give up on those ans stick with shs or do a test comparison with a aps uar quick change aeg now also to add even more stuff - irregular springs - tight coils at one end of spring... if fitted incorrectly give out lower than expected results oh yeah piece of cake this expected fps guessing malarky

How much do I spend per month - if I ain't telling the wife I ain't telling you (truth is I really don't know coz it really does vary £25 to £250+ if I see stuff and she hits the roof (again)) 3 reasons - gave up coz " fun " just wasn't on there don't care for ultra serious side or mega realistic or what not - just playing with toy guns I like the look of (until they break - boo hoo but its just a toy gun ffs) I just mess about and the way I play so badly - nobody takes me seriously anyway bit american survey in dollars n education but if ya from US & really wanna know what us Limey's think then I'd be glad to kind of convert stuff though £ to $ rate is a bit low atm

Might be a quick change spring which would be a right touch tbh

Short answer - you would need to spend £150+ to get a CM16 to perform like a Krytac (wait for the well maybe just £75 or Trigger saying £375....) Seriously for one second - you buy £150 gun spend £150 more and it is still a f*cking Combat Machine Don't get me wrong - they are good starter guns and a few tweaks improve but takes time n money If you want a better gun then it will cost more, like cars & loads of things If you want a BMW, Audi, Merc, Lexus and can run to it - get one Don't buy a run of the mill Ford Focus and spend money trying to make it something it isn't (said run of the mill but yes there is better models like ST RS Cosworth & all the other boy racer stuff etc...) No offense to Fiesta or any car owners but trying to put it perspective - that' all First gun if money is tight G&G to say £150 - £200 - no more tbh The Krytac is built better, shoots better, mosfet, better motor - just better gun but just coz you got a better gun don't mean you are a better player Krytac owners now lynch me........ it is a tough choice - me I think if you now got ukara you will be buying more than just one gun ya G&G will do fine for a while - heck you may go down AK or G36 or M14 or MP5/G3 route could get a G&G and if you think sod this you will be able to sell it on or if you really want a decent gun like krytac then go for it - think you can sell on anything decent just they are different ends so you have to decide just how far you go buying your first gun (there is still loads of other stuff you can buy with change or just get a gun you wished for) hope this crap helps a bit - but your decision and your money in the end In the meantime I'll probably get hunted down by Krytac owners driving Fiesta's or G&G owners driving a Lexus

just another thought...... if piston was full metal rack you could short stroke it a couple of teeth this is only for sad speed freaks tbh - remove 2 teeth & AoE corrected might do the job (can't reall short stroke full cylinder guns like ak's but medium length barrel guns can be SS carefully bit by bit) but tbh get a m100 spring is probably quickest & easiest all round solution rather that cut off teeth n crap (I screwed up first time around so I don't advise this - get a lower spring - job done (hopefully)) another thought - what gun ??? reason I ask is that some guns SRC JG plus a few others have that horrible 10mm alloy spring retainer clip in piston (bloody heavy things too) that mofo will add on a bit to spring compression - a piston tooth is 3mm so that could be like compressing spring 3 more teeth than a bare piston In reality I'd say over half of pistons have a bearing/spacer of about 5mm inside G&G's have a 5mm plastic spacer in them - same extra compression as a piston bearing but lighter and less prone to coming undone (loctite threadlock is best but if you forget you will learn the hard way after a few thousand rounds) If it has that funny alloy spring retainer spacer clip thingy bollox - then the spring will be hooked into the piston and may need to strip piston head off to get the sod out - chuck it then with no spacer in piston m105 me thinks should be fine and not over AoE should be done and if down a bit add bearing spring guide Alas this crap I'm suggesting is at very best just a guess - until you open her up you won't have much of a clue what is in there could be a m110 hooked onto piston with alloy spring thingy could be a very short gun with m120 TaiwanGun / Gunfire ??? m100 to m105 and perhaps bearing spring guide if needed after AoE

As Trigger said - very difficult to call Springs vary from manufacture for a start - often springs can be a bit over their rating length of barrel can increase fps - joule creep on longer barrels plus tbb can knock it up a bit further a mp5k 110/140mm barrel will probably have m110 to equal a 363mm on m100 plus some longer barrels like AK's 455mm to R85's with 510mm+ may have a m90 to equal an aprox 340fps - ish The " ish " factor comes into play even more variables even if all guns mentioned have 101% seals and compression..... An ultra light piston Vs heavier piston "may" increase fps very slightly from piston returning a bit faster in theory But more so if AoE is corrected then 10fps drop aprox will take place if bearing spring guide used and/or piston bearing bearing used - each of those factors can add on 15fps aprox So you can see one mp5k with m100 could hit near 300 not 328fps and another gun AK47 with bearing spring & piston spacer could hit 365fps say on the exact same spring Sounds bollox but these examples I and others have witnessed the results so it is at best a calculated guess based upon previous builds even then if all is perfectly sealed you get some wtf's ??? You say cqb - so gonna guess aprox 275-300 barrel - ish (do love an ish) so my guess shs m100 to Element m105 max if correcting AoE if still down add bearing spring guide for 15 fps more aprox That is my rough workings out so far - still not 101% accurate due to loads of variables like I mentioned Hope this helps - but don't sue me if I am way out

ask my first psx I tried to chip, what a mess using a massive 30w red hot screwdriver tip crap solder that was probably meant for plumber's to solder pipes, no flux and wire that was way to thick and burnt back kynar, decent soldering iron, flux - piece of pi$$ As to gearboxes - proper planning of the wires and layout makes life easy or not so easy like many things - learning by our mistakes (still making them now and then so with that I'm still learning with every ball I drop though hopefully not so many - fingers crossed) Always say a lot of stuff is like MFI or IKEA furniture - first one takes hours, second one hour by the time you put together the 4th cabinet - 25mins I'm a pro (no you are too tight to buy quality furniture pre-built)

To be absolutely honest - there isn't much in it.... Sometimes Taiwangun do better deals Gunfire when they have offers on it becomes oooh I gotta get that coz its a really stupid bargain not to In my mind - when you get stuff at a crazy price you have to consider the odd time things may require a bit of work though free spring downgrade is good if you don't feel confident Some stuff is really good, some is alright Some parts - some are better than others a few parts from TWG were supposed to a certain brand but as they repack a lot of bits into bags for transport sometimes - maybe once or twice I wondered if they really were what they said they was in description.... Most of the stuff is very good, a few things I'd never buy again but can't grumble at daft price I paid for some bits Guns overall have been amazing but they don't do cheap G&G's - my G&G's all came from UK retailers But think they will accept stuff back if it is really shagged but me I normaly break or rip stuff open with 15mins of it arriving anyway Both TWG & GF are both good sites imho, GF are bigger of course with any place you need to do a smidge of research before getting carried away This is what places like AF-UK & Google are for Happy Shooting

2 so far.... 1 chewed up wires in v2 box by motor pinion (lesson learnt, carefully route wires better now) 1 home made 3034 just blew up - f*ck knows but obvious short somewhere mega heatshrink now So far not had a 3rd but what with the juice that goes through them - I don't take things for granted now. One thing I have learnt you really can't rush cut corners thinking that will be OK on anything inside the box I now take a hell of a lot longer putting stuff together