Sitting Duck

Silicone is ok on smooth metal surfaces - apllied and polished there is no drag or resistance we use it all the time at work - greatly reduces drag as you are not gonna be able to buffer and polish barrel perfectlt I said a bit on cotton bud don't go mad and any excess will get pushed out and should be fine after say 50 bb's Rubber - nope like I said was my feeling Hop-up - hmm maybe but WD40 might be better - still a tiny tiny bit to gears But silicone on metal is not bad thing in my book, it really helps stuff to glide over the polished metal surface

Exactly how I feel about the Bull$hit BB's they seem fine for me atm so will use them up and decide later what/if I try others They seem ok - pretty accurate and that is what matters in the end

Yup I will go with that - white slicone grease or similar for gearbox Silicone - very slippery stuff but use very carefully - barrel yup hop-up - maybe a tiny bit but rubber maybe see if you really need it & just a minute bit if you do yes there are loads of various type/make/spec of silicone liquids just like Isopropyl - the wipes/swabs are 70% + 30 % distilled water but you can get pure or 99% alchohol/Isopropyl in bottles think maybe WD40 for hop-up gears might be better than silicone - leave rubber alone barrel silicone any surface polished or wiped with silicone will be very slippery wd40 & silicone are not the same - they are a tiny bit similar but each has their benefits/uses they work best for anything is better than nothing at a push but just go easy is my thoughts wityh these lubricants gearbox is a different matter though

BB's included - NO Lunch - hmmm dunno: TWA full day walk on - NO Young Guns Chobham - YES - some kind of chilli & beans potatoe stew stodge but grub all the same Hmmm - them mags, did think about trying them but thought they may not be easy to use with gloves on Just get used to winding mag when you behind cover and unless you have a really itchy trigger you will most likely choose your shot rather than spray n pray all the time and need constant winding Some mag winders seem to be more ergonomic than others - but unless you are supplying supressing fire you will probably find you won't go too mad unless you need to and just get used to winding when in cover (think everybody has failed to wind enough and get shot for their mistakes) Can use mid caps - not as quick to fill up, need a speed loader- some better than others but you never need to wind a low or mid cap - mid cap can go up to about 180-ish some say 190 mid cap but couldn't seem to get much more than 165 in mine - but 165 bb's no winding Never played there so can't say - times can really vary but a ROUGH guide: get there for sign in by 9:00am game play or breifing starts at 9:30am - long briefing then 10:00 game starts Lunch dunno 12:30 ish until 1:00 or 1:30pm Game resumes and finish about 4:00pm These are only rough guides you really gotta check site or ring them to confirm

Barrel - I have used a cotton bud or cue-tip as yanks would say taped to a think stick or unjamming rod, tip of cotton bud moderately coated with silicone and can drop in barrel applying a layer of slicone to length of it I have a very thin bit of tubing that is just right for stick of cotton to wedge into (cut the cotton bud in two and wedge it in very thin tube or tape to small thin cane or jamming rod) spray sliicone onto cotton bud and run down barrel seems to work for me and seems to be right size unless you got a really big set of ears and use jumbo cue-tips/buds Hop-up - hmm a light spray on gear or mechanism perhaps but would never go nuts or it on bucking but hop up - hardly adjust it and seems ok atm - so kind of scared to go too mad with silicone in case it goes perhaps where it shouldn't - but don't take this as gospel as I am still a noob myself Just think you don't want a slippery bucking too much Silicone won't damage rubber - but it is so very slippery and if you go too mad it stays slippery as f*ck for quite a while (we have spilt it on floor at work and blow me it is like an ice rink - really dangerous and need lots of hot soapy soapy washing up liquid as it is a degreaser to clear it up) Rubber parts of machines have been coated in it and all still ok - but I would advise go easy with it as you don't need much May not know a hell of lot about gun maintainence but I know a bit about that slippery bastid - Silly Con See what others say as well coz I would like to learn more about keeping my AEG in good order too

Second Hand Galaxy MP5 on here - very pleased A "slightly" warm CO2 pistol - little cracker And at parcelforce depot awaiting for me to pay duty & admin: 2 x Stubby fixed M4 stocks & 3 x Hi Cap 450rnd M4 mags Royal Mail - robbing bastids Just gotta find a place to hide some of this or other half is gonna do her nut - again

I think this might sting a bit though 1664 fps ffs !!! No $hit - was first shot on a brand new CO2 cartridge pistol with .20g bb's I thought no way - where's my phone - where's my phone before she auto off Is cool though after 2nd or 3rd shot she came down to 300's but jeez that could kill or very seriously injure somebody..... I have been playing with my new toy this afternoon and no more silly stuff like that even with a fresh new co2 cartridge but thought I would share a wtf pic

Normally cheap nasty 0.12g's have a very visable join in them making them untrue spheres this can jam guns especially decent guns with a decent tight-ish barrel use crap bb's and they can jam on even non-tight barrels these bb's are for spring pinkers with massive crappy bore barrels The bubbles - I think it must be a bad batch or bad supplier people may have bought from Saw the Bull$hit post with bubbles and not seen bubbles myself in my tubs of white & black so maybe Bull$hit stopped buying them from a supplier and sourced elsewhere There was a recent version or gen 3 lot of bb's they were starting to sell around Easter so maybe BullDog moved onto another supplier ???? And maybe another company or two bought from the Aero BB supplier if they kind of work then carry on with caution but if you get lots of jimmy's - dribbling out or more than just the odd jam then STOP USING THESE COZ THEY WILL MESS UP YOUR GUN

The sites usually do decent deals - TWA do 5k SRC for either £9 or £10 I'm sure somebody would of split a bag with you if you was that pushed But always buying is smaller qty you get less for more money and postage can be a hidden 8itch on top too Even sites like OnlyBBGuns that do free shipping on anything are expensive of just a bag of BB's (They ain't stupid or we would all buy small qty bb's from places like that) yeah that poster above said about: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4000-0-2g-proball-high-quality-profeshional-airsoft-bbs-0-20g-/131168522180?pt=UK_SportingGoods_OtherSports&hash=item1e8a40cfc4 might be worth a go if you are pushed try them - they may be ok like he says

phew - hopefully I wasn't BullShitting too much then soz everyone for getting out my pram a bit - just tried to help

I know that the actual Voltage regulator components - the ST make can take a hell lot more volts than you would expect Some can take up to 30v dc and output to 9v - that is quite a bit of tolerance - but each regulator will have its own pdf These are static regulators - there are variable regulators but only needed this type of volt reg & a few capacitors to stabilise it I have researched this stuff when putting together some electronic circuits so I do know a tiny little bit And is true when input voltage gets close to output voltage eg: 5.5v input for a 5v output is bad coz output drops to 4.5v - the regulator circuit don't work too good Boring bit and completely off-topic but one project was taking a 18v psu & outputting to 12v & 5v supplys 12v was counter with npn photcell that would trigger a custom batch the pulse from say 100 batch would then trigger a 5v MOSFET - think that was Negative MOSFET - they come in both types The 5v MOSFET would activate a solenoid air valve at 18v to spray a silicone lubricant onto the machine to keep it running smooth The time or number of objects passing counter could be adjusted and the dwell or delay in the pulse signal for long or shorter spray (as well as an air regulator for the badger spray gun filled with silicon & repostition or add another spray gun) They above saved machine operator ( ME ) running up & down with expensive cans of silicon instead cheaper bulk 5 litre can would last a lifetime Health & Safety - proper ventilation was required as silicon breathing is not good but allowed us to precisely control silicon to minimun - operator free (plastic sheets were used to keep mist away from us but in the end it was so little being used to get job done) Sorry - I know nothing I will just shut up to avoid giving wrong advice No I an not an electrical enginneer but always tinkered with electrics/soldering/programming before i bought my ZX81

Ok guys cheers for replies just Krylon through post would be over a tenner and some places seem to charge a bit more than others for postage Think I will continue with a few careful thin coats of PlastiKote and see how she goes for now time will tell - but hey under a fiver will do me for the moment

post delelted as I got it off my chest and all that not gonna get into a row as I am still new but was only trying to help unless anyone has the exact same model and wants to run tolerance tests No I do not know but I am not gonna say YES IT WILL WORK WITH ANY VOLTAGE THAT WOULD BE THE WRONG ANSWER I said it might and check hell I don't give a crap if he pays another £25 or so for a shut the f*ck up psu he should still check polarity or his now £100 voltage kit could be a bit of a mess Most chargers or psu have the center as the Positive pin/socket Nope I best shut up coz I don't know what I am on about You win - I don't wanna get banned just yet if I really speak my mind

Sorry if this has been asked many many times No doubt Krylon is the best - should be for price But is it really that good - as probably looking at spraying some bits UKARA is a fortnight away - so understand if this is techy subject atm Ok - Screwfix have PlastiKote Matt Black reduced to £4:55 I have spayed up one base coat atm of a battery front handguard (lawyers please note I haven't broken any law yet - refit to gun yes maybe but atm I am just doing an art project) Ok gonna give it at least another coat maybe two but as I am trying to make a decent looking job of it - start spraying say 8 inches from gun and pre-spray 3 inches from area making sweeping strokes across the area & 3 inches past it and finish etc all that technique stuff Now probably gonna use up a bit more paint with all pre-spraying and numerous light coats rather than one thick coat and probably full off runs etc..... What I was wondering after say 3 thin coats would it be much more prone to chipping and looking crap & all that So maybe if PlastiKote isn't up to job would a final coat of Krylon be worth it or a tough matt varnish/laquer ??? PlastiKote = £4:55 at local ScrewFix Krylon = probably no gonna get much change out of £15 with shipping as many local places don't stock it So PlastiKote is about a third of price of Krylon so could go nuts putting down a few nice coats and maybe a final Krylon top coat if required - presume these 2 paints would be ok on top of each other Both made in USA for what it is worth, I'm sure Krylon is better as is used for camo etc... just wondering how good and is it worth it on top of 3 coats of PlastiKote Any experienced sprayers out there confirm or share any info please - fanx in advance btw

RED & BLACK leads that go into XT60 and then back to crocadile leads - remove as you don't use them for your battery your battery - charge lead is tiny white plug - be careful as pins are tiny in charger your white lead - 3 tiny pins on 7.4v - goes into the white socket at side maybe ? there is a 4 pin socket = 11.1v - ground + 3 x cells of 3.7v each = 11.1v volt you got 7.4v - 2 cells of 3.7v = & gorund = 3 wires black, blue & red first time use I would trickle charge it myself - say a 1amp charge for first charge BUT as with all charging you should put it on say an old workbench - or kitchen worktop AND KEEP AN EYE ON IT You maybe should use a LiPo charger bag to reduce risk of heat or fire - bit ott but is there as a precaution Batteries can get hot - some more than others but I tend to trickle charge them unless I am in hurry NEVER put a battery on say your bed or carpet floor to be to charge - something a bit fireproof like a formica worktop - not bed or carpet LiPo charge bag - well if you are gonna charge it and not keep a close eye on it but then a watched pot never boils as the saying goes Use common sense - don't put it on floor/bed and go out for evening worktop bench and keep checking it on a regular basis yeah I should use LiPo bag but I ain't got one so keep an eye on it is better in my book

Well that settles it - I if I see a big black bloke I am shooting him then All I was saying this is contact sport of a sort, and I would accept somebody touching me - ooh yes please touching with hand - knife, light-sabre, rampant rabbit etc.... as I see it if a guy made it to me all stealth and could touch with a tap of hand he deserves to get kill not being a knife - well in real terms he could pistol whip me or use a 4x2 bit of wood etc... BUT the guy would of well n truely had me and could make proper contact.... As for just taking hand off receiver - surely it would use less to just pull the trigger ??? What I don't agree with is just saying it rather than doing it - making contact I am not getting into a row over this as we all have a difference of opinion - and just splitting hairs but their is a line in what we will agree and disagree what is a kill I said earlier about contact being made rather than bang b0ll0cks and if guy taps me on shoulder - yup ok I am dead - where the fudge did he come from I would then think but yup you deffo had me there m8 is what I would mutter as I call myself out Knife kill might be more realistic but in realistic terms how can a medic revive me so quickly if I got shot through heart?? ok getting way off topic once again but this is a pretend sport we play - or we would need a LOT of body bags each weekend if you tap me on shoulder... Oh - are a dead team mate respawning ??? No m8 - I'm enemy - YOU ARE DEAD Damn it - who had the back FFS ??? ( - but I would call it like I said )

like I said charger will PROBABLY work within range of 10 to 15v the positive is most likely the center pin polarity - very important to check the size of connector may or not be the same size but it is a common fitting so you may find something lying around laptop chargers though can be anywhere from 15v to 20v usually my acer is a 19v & fujitsu is a 20v - which might be pushing it a bit maybe an old pc or tv lcd may have a 12v seperate psu (some older tv/monitors had a psu rather than mains cable) if you get stuck & may go to LWA then lmk or pm me & will try to help ya out like I said

I've seen them but didn't realise they did all batteries and took mains and dc input not a bad price too looking at all leads you get and the cloverleaf mains lead too (is that 11v to 15v dc input or 11 to 18v dc input it says on input side - like I said there is a bit of give n take on dc input) might have got one if I had known before hand now ended up with 2 x smart NiMH chargers and 2 x 7.4v/11.1v lipo's plus 1 x 7.4v lipo To the OP - if you are going to TWA Saturday - I will loan ya battery for the day and loan you my 7.4v lipo charger until next time or just a 12v psu that should fit your one, the NetGear 12v 1500mah you can borrow it should fit I mean stone me you have gone a bit nutz & if you still need to get a psu - jeez Serious genuine offer - I will be there in morning dropping off my son and probably playing in afternoon

well you can use a lower amp psu - I mean I ain't got a 3800 mah 12v psu just will take longer for bigger batteries like the monster life one I got also in "theory" - and on some chargers you can use 10~15v psu as the voltage regulator in the charger will take it down to the req voltage - but that will or should say on charger itself The problem is when you are for example using say a regulator circuit of 5v input of 5.5v is not good idea as the 5v output will be around 4.5v or less but a bit more over the output eg: 7.5v upwards is better think the voltage reulator chip itself could take in up to near 18v but of course that all depends on the manufactures specification in the pdf etc.... soz - getting a bit ott on tech side and as we are talking about various chargers and makes who knows what the exact safe input range would be - so most makers say just 12v (I am not saying all will operate in the 10v to 15v range but in THEORY they should have a little bit either way) Soz for electronic lessons - but c'mon you getting near £70 for battery - jeez shame Pro Airsoft Supplies ran out or stopped doing the starter kit of gun & battery/charger mask & bb's for £120 ok not lipo but would of got you started and gentle on your wallet http://www.proairsoftsupplies.co.uk/acatalog/cm16_transparent_starter_pack.html#SID=239 if this is not the gun you bought then ignore what I say - everybody else in my house ignores me too

sorry but now you are getting onto £70 inc post for battery n charger just to power your gun http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vapex-Airsoft-25C-LiPo-Cranestock-Battery-LiPo-Charger-LP305-7-4V-2600mAh-/400701716295?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Paintballing&hash=item5d4baef747 is one option but reckon I could get that a lot cheaper if using a single block battery & a cheaper charger

Going by description it says Requires external 12V dc input - which to me says 12v power supply required the 2 holes seen in 2nd pic is an OUTPUT +/- Can't see jack $hit of any other sides of charger in pictures your ps3 power cable is a figure 8 power lead - 2 pins from mains and prior to ps3 slim was used for old retro radio/cassette players the other phat ps3 is refered to as kettle lead or pc lead 3 pins from mains I can only go by description but if there is a connector that looks like ps3 slim fig 8 power input and also instructions saying mains input then you are fine - though desription is not quite up to date then coz says you req 12v input I have 3 lipo chargers - 2 take 12v input and anothe takes mains input Update: Just had a look around and an old NetGear Router psu works fine it seems is the right connector, and is 12v correct polarity and 1.5amp so something like that could get you out of the $hit if needed

you got a 12v psu for the charger ??? coz I can see you have spent £50+ for battery & charger but still need a seperate 12v power supply or you won't be charging battery up just yet without 12v for lipo charger description says it needs a 12v supply - thought they would of chucked one in you gun most likely will be mini tamiya - the usual type for most starter guns hi end or custom builds may use deans - but mini tamiya is most common battery type unless you have a really big chunky mother battery - which will probably be large tamiya If you don't have the 12v psu for charger have a look around your house first.... you may have an old 12v psu plug type for say an old pc router/modem, answer machine, or something like that BUT - big BUT - no not my Ar$e, but check the polarity and amps of psu if it is up to the job in MA or Milliamps & the +/- connector "usually" - the positive is the centre pin and negative is outer ring but you need to check this or get somebody to double check it with you just in case you blow it up reversing the polarity double check psu symbol against the requirements of charger - and double/triple check before switching on

sorry but the guy he comes up behind Black Death "taps him on shoulder"....... - never mind bang your dead that to me is knife kill in effect - CONTACT WAS MADE !!! to me in my book Black Death is brown bread - don't matter in my book knife hand dildo or BB - contact was made The post itself iself is going on about just saying from distance BANG and NO CONTACT - that is what I say no kill Black Death may prefer to shot but me myself would accept that kill by tap on shoulder the only problem is if in heat of them moment would being pumped up etc... would I calmly accept it immediately hopefully but like I have said in the heat of battle we all may not always 101% do the right thing straight away we can only try to play fair BTW - you either have to be really brave or really stupid to try & sneak up on Black Death for a Bang or Melee kill Personally I would fire a shot or two & RUN - coz I ain't hanging around if I miss

Wow - welcome to Airsoft PhD physics & chemistry for trigger happy students Think many things have a bit ore ooomphhh at first - getting really techy here with the terms... When Batteries come straight off of charge they often have a bit more voltage in them for a very short time.... Putting a test meter on a 9.9v life straight after taking it off charge was showing nearer 11v than 10v But it was steadily decreasing on the meter by 0.01v and seemed to settle at about 10.08v so then I said forget the observations and poxy study test crap - lets start shooting ffs

End of the day it all depends on what will fit in there as well 8.4v 9.6v 7.4v LiPo is your 3 best options - but also what size compartment get a nice size capacity but check very carefully it will fit don't push it though and get one that is at max size - they can be out in size spec no point having a brilliant battery if your can't shut the lid up properly check size - some make of 1600mah are bigger than other makes and of course in "theory" the 9.6v is gonna be bigger than 8.4v as it has another cell but then there are medium and LARGE cell sizes too Oh what fun - so get a tape measure or a digital caliper vernier gauge to measure it all out what battery you got and what might fit - but don't go too mad like I said most likely your battery is up the front handguard, or if crane nunchuck stock then choice is a little limited fit a full size fixed stock and shove a car battery in there - well not quite but you have loads more room