Sitting Duck

The sites usually do decent deals - TWA do 5k SRC for either £9 or £10 I'm sure somebody would of split a bag with you if you was that pushed But always buying is smaller qty you get less for more money and postage can be a hidden 8itch on top too Even sites like OnlyBBGuns that do free shipping on anything are expensive of just a bag of BB's (They ain't stupid or we would all buy small qty bb's from places like that) yeah that poster above said about: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4000-0-2g-proball-high-quality-profeshional-airsoft-bbs-0-20g-/131168522180?pt=UK_SportingGoods_OtherSports&hash=item1e8a40cfc4 might be worth a go if you are pushed try them - they may be ok like he says

phew - hopefully I wasn't BullShitting too much then soz everyone for getting out my pram a bit - just tried to help

I know that the actual Voltage regulator components - the ST make can take a hell lot more volts than you would expect Some can take up to 30v dc and output to 9v - that is quite a bit of tolerance - but each regulator will have its own pdf These are static regulators - there are variable regulators but only needed this type of volt reg & a few capacitors to stabilise it I have researched this stuff when putting together some electronic circuits so I do know a tiny little bit And is true when input voltage gets close to output voltage eg: 5.5v input for a 5v output is bad coz output drops to 4.5v - the regulator circuit don't work too good Boring bit and completely off-topic but one project was taking a 18v psu & outputting to 12v & 5v supplys 12v was counter with npn photcell that would trigger a custom batch the pulse from say 100 batch would then trigger a 5v MOSFET - think that was Negative MOSFET - they come in both types The 5v MOSFET would activate a solenoid air valve at 18v to spray a silicone lubricant onto the machine to keep it running smooth The time or number of objects passing counter could be adjusted and the dwell or delay in the pulse signal for long or shorter spray (as well as an air regulator for the badger spray gun filled with silicon & repostition or add another spray gun) They above saved machine operator ( ME ) running up & down with expensive cans of silicon instead cheaper bulk 5 litre can would last a lifetime Health & Safety - proper ventilation was required as silicon breathing is not good but allowed us to precisely control silicon to minimun - operator free (plastic sheets were used to keep mist away from us but in the end it was so little being used to get job done) Sorry - I know nothing I will just shut up to avoid giving wrong advice No I an not an electrical enginneer but always tinkered with electrics/soldering/programming before i bought my ZX81

Ok guys cheers for replies just Krylon through post would be over a tenner and some places seem to charge a bit more than others for postage Think I will continue with a few careful thin coats of PlastiKote and see how she goes for now time will tell - but hey under a fiver will do me for the moment

post delelted as I got it off my chest and all that not gonna get into a row as I am still new but was only trying to help unless anyone has the exact same model and wants to run tolerance tests No I do not know but I am not gonna say YES IT WILL WORK WITH ANY VOLTAGE THAT WOULD BE THE WRONG ANSWER I said it might and check hell I don't give a crap if he pays another £25 or so for a shut the f*ck up psu he should still check polarity or his now £100 voltage kit could be a bit of a mess Most chargers or psu have the center as the Positive pin/socket Nope I best shut up coz I don't know what I am on about You win - I don't wanna get banned just yet if I really speak my mind

Sorry if this has been asked many many times No doubt Krylon is the best - should be for price But is it really that good - as probably looking at spraying some bits UKARA is a fortnight away - so understand if this is techy subject atm Ok - Screwfix have PlastiKote Matt Black reduced to £4:55 I have spayed up one base coat atm of a battery front handguard (lawyers please note I haven't broken any law yet - refit to gun yes maybe but atm I am just doing an art project) Ok gonna give it at least another coat maybe two but as I am trying to make a decent looking job of it - start spraying say 8 inches from gun and pre-spray 3 inches from area making sweeping strokes across the area & 3 inches past it and finish etc all that technique stuff Now probably gonna use up a bit more paint with all pre-spraying and numerous light coats rather than one thick coat and probably full off runs etc..... What I was wondering after say 3 thin coats would it be much more prone to chipping and looking crap & all that So maybe if PlastiKote isn't up to job would a final coat of Krylon be worth it or a tough matt varnish/laquer ??? PlastiKote = £4:55 at local ScrewFix Krylon = probably no gonna get much change out of £15 with shipping as many local places don't stock it So PlastiKote is about a third of price of Krylon so could go nuts putting down a few nice coats and maybe a final Krylon top coat if required - presume these 2 paints would be ok on top of each other Both made in USA for what it is worth, I'm sure Krylon is better as is used for camo etc... just wondering how good and is it worth it on top of 3 coats of PlastiKote Any experienced sprayers out there confirm or share any info please - fanx in advance btw

RED & BLACK leads that go into XT60 and then back to crocadile leads - remove as you don't use them for your battery your battery - charge lead is tiny white plug - be careful as pins are tiny in charger your white lead - 3 tiny pins on 7.4v - goes into the white socket at side maybe ? there is a 4 pin socket = 11.1v - ground + 3 x cells of 3.7v each = 11.1v volt you got 7.4v - 2 cells of 3.7v = & gorund = 3 wires black, blue & red first time use I would trickle charge it myself - say a 1amp charge for first charge BUT as with all charging you should put it on say an old workbench - or kitchen worktop AND KEEP AN EYE ON IT You maybe should use a LiPo charger bag to reduce risk of heat or fire - bit ott but is there as a precaution Batteries can get hot - some more than others but I tend to trickle charge them unless I am in hurry NEVER put a battery on say your bed or carpet floor to be to charge - something a bit fireproof like a formica worktop - not bed or carpet LiPo charge bag - well if you are gonna charge it and not keep a close eye on it but then a watched pot never boils as the saying goes Use common sense - don't put it on floor/bed and go out for evening worktop bench and keep checking it on a regular basis yeah I should use LiPo bag but I ain't got one so keep an eye on it is better in my book

Well that settles it - I if I see a big black bloke I am shooting him then All I was saying this is contact sport of a sort, and I would accept somebody touching me - ooh yes please touching with hand - knife, light-sabre, rampant rabbit etc.... as I see it if a guy made it to me all stealth and could touch with a tap of hand he deserves to get kill not being a knife - well in real terms he could pistol whip me or use a 4x2 bit of wood etc... BUT the guy would of well n truely had me and could make proper contact.... As for just taking hand off receiver - surely it would use less to just pull the trigger ??? What I don't agree with is just saying it rather than doing it - making contact I am not getting into a row over this as we all have a difference of opinion - and just splitting hairs but their is a line in what we will agree and disagree what is a kill I said earlier about contact being made rather than bang b0ll0cks and if guy taps me on shoulder - yup ok I am dead - where the fudge did he come from I would then think but yup you deffo had me there m8 is what I would mutter as I call myself out Knife kill might be more realistic but in realistic terms how can a medic revive me so quickly if I got shot through heart?? ok getting way off topic once again but this is a pretend sport we play - or we would need a LOT of body bags each weekend if you tap me on shoulder... Oh - are a dead team mate respawning ??? No m8 - I'm enemy - YOU ARE DEAD Damn it - who had the back FFS ??? ( - but I would call it like I said )

like I said charger will PROBABLY work within range of 10 to 15v the positive is most likely the center pin polarity - very important to check the size of connector may or not be the same size but it is a common fitting so you may find something lying around laptop chargers though can be anywhere from 15v to 20v usually my acer is a 19v & fujitsu is a 20v - which might be pushing it a bit maybe an old pc or tv lcd may have a 12v seperate psu (some older tv/monitors had a psu rather than mains cable) if you get stuck & may go to LWA then lmk or pm me & will try to help ya out like I said

I've seen them but didn't realise they did all batteries and took mains and dc input not a bad price too looking at all leads you get and the cloverleaf mains lead too (is that 11v to 15v dc input or 11 to 18v dc input it says on input side - like I said there is a bit of give n take on dc input) might have got one if I had known before hand now ended up with 2 x smart NiMH chargers and 2 x 7.4v/11.1v lipo's plus 1 x 7.4v lipo To the OP - if you are going to TWA Saturday - I will loan ya battery for the day and loan you my 7.4v lipo charger until next time or just a 12v psu that should fit your one, the NetGear 12v 1500mah you can borrow it should fit I mean stone me you have gone a bit nutz & if you still need to get a psu - jeez Serious genuine offer - I will be there in morning dropping off my son and probably playing in afternoon

well you can use a lower amp psu - I mean I ain't got a 3800 mah 12v psu just will take longer for bigger batteries like the monster life one I got also in "theory" - and on some chargers you can use 10~15v psu as the voltage regulator in the charger will take it down to the req voltage - but that will or should say on charger itself The problem is when you are for example using say a regulator circuit of 5v input of 5.5v is not good idea as the 5v output will be around 4.5v or less but a bit more over the output eg: 7.5v upwards is better think the voltage reulator chip itself could take in up to near 18v but of course that all depends on the manufactures specification in the pdf etc.... soz - getting a bit ott on tech side and as we are talking about various chargers and makes who knows what the exact safe input range would be - so most makers say just 12v (I am not saying all will operate in the 10v to 15v range but in THEORY they should have a little bit either way) Soz for electronic lessons - but c'mon you getting near £70 for battery - jeez shame Pro Airsoft Supplies ran out or stopped doing the starter kit of gun & battery/charger mask & bb's for £120 ok not lipo but would of got you started and gentle on your wallet http://www.proairsoftsupplies.co.uk/acatalog/cm16_transparent_starter_pack.html#SID=239 if this is not the gun you bought then ignore what I say - everybody else in my house ignores me too

sorry but now you are getting onto £70 inc post for battery n charger just to power your gun http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vapex-Airsoft-25C-LiPo-Cranestock-Battery-LiPo-Charger-LP305-7-4V-2600mAh-/400701716295?pt=UK_Sporting_Goods_Paintballing&hash=item5d4baef747 is one option but reckon I could get that a lot cheaper if using a single block battery & a cheaper charger

Going by description it says Requires external 12V dc input - which to me says 12v power supply required the 2 holes seen in 2nd pic is an OUTPUT +/- Can't see jack $hit of any other sides of charger in pictures your ps3 power cable is a figure 8 power lead - 2 pins from mains and prior to ps3 slim was used for old retro radio/cassette players the other phat ps3 is refered to as kettle lead or pc lead 3 pins from mains I can only go by description but if there is a connector that looks like ps3 slim fig 8 power input and also instructions saying mains input then you are fine - though desription is not quite up to date then coz says you req 12v input I have 3 lipo chargers - 2 take 12v input and anothe takes mains input Update: Just had a look around and an old NetGear Router psu works fine it seems is the right connector, and is 12v correct polarity and 1.5amp so something like that could get you out of the $hit if needed

you got a 12v psu for the charger ??? coz I can see you have spent £50+ for battery & charger but still need a seperate 12v power supply or you won't be charging battery up just yet without 12v for lipo charger description says it needs a 12v supply - thought they would of chucked one in you gun most likely will be mini tamiya - the usual type for most starter guns hi end or custom builds may use deans - but mini tamiya is most common battery type unless you have a really big chunky mother battery - which will probably be large tamiya If you don't have the 12v psu for charger have a look around your house first.... you may have an old 12v psu plug type for say an old pc router/modem, answer machine, or something like that BUT - big BUT - no not my Ar$e, but check the polarity and amps of psu if it is up to the job in MA or Milliamps & the +/- connector "usually" - the positive is the centre pin and negative is outer ring but you need to check this or get somebody to double check it with you just in case you blow it up reversing the polarity double check psu symbol against the requirements of charger - and double/triple check before switching on

sorry but the guy he comes up behind Black Death "taps him on shoulder"....... - never mind bang your dead that to me is knife kill in effect - CONTACT WAS MADE !!! to me in my book Black Death is brown bread - don't matter in my book knife hand dildo or BB - contact was made The post itself iself is going on about just saying from distance BANG and NO CONTACT - that is what I say no kill Black Death may prefer to shot but me myself would accept that kill by tap on shoulder the only problem is if in heat of them moment would being pumped up etc... would I calmly accept it immediately hopefully but like I have said in the heat of battle we all may not always 101% do the right thing straight away we can only try to play fair BTW - you either have to be really brave or really stupid to try & sneak up on Black Death for a Bang or Melee kill Personally I would fire a shot or two & RUN - coz I ain't hanging around if I miss

Wow - welcome to Airsoft PhD physics & chemistry for trigger happy students Think many things have a bit ore ooomphhh at first - getting really techy here with the terms... When Batteries come straight off of charge they often have a bit more voltage in them for a very short time.... Putting a test meter on a 9.9v life straight after taking it off charge was showing nearer 11v than 10v But it was steadily decreasing on the meter by 0.01v and seemed to settle at about 10.08v so then I said forget the observations and poxy study test crap - lets start shooting ffs

End of the day it all depends on what will fit in there as well 8.4v 9.6v 7.4v LiPo is your 3 best options - but also what size compartment get a nice size capacity but check very carefully it will fit don't push it though and get one that is at max size - they can be out in size spec no point having a brilliant battery if your can't shut the lid up properly check size - some make of 1600mah are bigger than other makes and of course in "theory" the 9.6v is gonna be bigger than 8.4v as it has another cell but then there are medium and LARGE cell sizes too Oh what fun - so get a tape measure or a digital caliper vernier gauge to measure it all out what battery you got and what might fit - but don't go too mad like I said most likely your battery is up the front handguard, or if crane nunchuck stock then choice is a little limited fit a full size fixed stock and shove a car battery in there - well not quite but you have loads more room

Well I have a Xcortech at home and they are coming same speed as other 0.20gs. Ultrasonic black, Bulldog white & black & white bio's, some SRC & ICS bb's I got with guns and Elite Force from Landwarrior The bubble is weird and maybe on purpose or some batches were more crap than others who knows what $hit they source from and brand FANTASTIC Bull$hit just cracked open a black BullDog 0.20 and couldn't see bubble deffo BullDog out of a new jar of Black Bull$hit BB's Bio's - think they all used up now mixed with others in my garden cracked open a white BB but can't be 101% sure it was bulldog but will check later with one fresh from White Bull$hit jar Update - for anyone that cares - no airbubble in the white Bull$hit 0.20g I got out of the jar maybe it was a bad nasty batch of crap - maybe it is first thing to check if your bb's are inconsistent or all over the place - hmm might crack a fireball .25g ovpen coz I have doubts about those sods All the Busll$hit's I have got in last 3 months from either JBBG or BBG4Less I think if they were crap I would be ripping that greedy chubby bastid to bits

LOL - that BANG Glock think I may get one of those bad boys I mean if a sniper had that as secondary and called bang I would deffo take the hit Ya gotta take a hit from that - unless ya female coz they just don't have sense of humour

Wow - but I think they are not that bad certainly better than fireball .25g's I got BullDog 0.20g's in white - they don't seem to be awful haven't jammed gun yet In fact we was doing some traget practice today at about 70ft and was quite pleased with the groupings using Bull$hit BB's maybe the air bubble is coz they using heavier material like say .25 or .30 but air bubble reduces weight to 0.20g - dunno not a expert far from it but amazed that if that air bubble is not 101% centered then weight/mass would be off-center and spinning all over the place - but they seem quite accurate to me If they were total $hit - trust me I would be slating them left right n center coz I still want my mags n choccy n key rings that the fat bastid owes me

Depends on shipping I have used Bull$hit - ergh I mean BullDog which are not that bad Don't ffs get fireball - jeez bought some .25g's to get better accuracy - mother I got loads of jimmy's jimmy's is what i call ones that trickle out @ 150fps then 4 good ones and then jimmy - pile of crap Got some elite force - seem bit better than bulldogs but as always buy a small amount of any bb's to test in your own gun - some guns have a tighter bore barrel and be really picky on bb's Hence I suppose some will say this make is good and others with tighter bore will say nope they are crap They seem good but only time will tell how they work in your own gun - think they are about right price for a decent bit of ammo - but price alone is not always a good guide I have found Oh and just in case you get some free bb's in with gun - they are not to be used they go in crappy springers or in the bin - unless you like unblocking your nice new gun Happy shooting

Well sorry but that is a bit out of order - one rule for one and forget about it for others I mean if I was a parent - well yeah I am, but if I had a little 10yr old weakling kid I would like to think that the site does operate its safety policies correctly ffs poor little timmy may get shot at 400+ at close/mid range and get $hit shot out of him by somebody that the site failed to check all guns were within the limits Sorry but in my book that is b0ll0cks - I mean grown ups yeah lets not always go mental with red tape coz we are men and expect to get hit a bit maybe But ffs - That parent signed a consent form - so why the f*ck the site not carrying out its duties to ensure safety of kids - and we are talking about children - with a vast range - my son said some of them deffo looked older than 18 - but I said well they could be students and I got served in pubs when I was his age coz at 14 I never had a problem looking older than I was - I looked like 70 now though But some of them kids looked like little pups who fall over if the got shot with a nerf gun Sorry but I expect and hope all skirmishes to carry out the same safety checks and regulations as they should do for all games - whatever the age range of players some of the kids were hiring G&G's and there was pro looking snipers and stuff there too

Slightly off topic - but my son went to another site and not 1 gun was chrono'd ok It was kids game match but ffs - how the hell did they know nobody was running hot guns he said a fair amount were jbbg crap but there were some decent taiwan guns there My local one they chrono in morning mark guns and after lunch chrono any new people turning up to play

I understood DMR as a beefy AEG - locked only to single shot semi auto only can have increased fps to assist with long range shots and perhaps long barrel for accuracy to All depend on the site - yes if it is locked to single shot only but running with Lipo 11.1v and in the hands of a good player with good trigger finger that can be devastating or deffo a big advantage This is very true if most stuff is restricted to single shot only in close range stuff but the DMR should have MED But another problem is that a beefed up M4 or M16 DMR firing at 420fps looks identical of course to a 345 one so out on the field how the hell do you know if you got shot by a in effect a hot M4 that they used at close range Yes good for long range shots maybe but doubt if everybody will be informed on who has DMR on enemy team so unless the marshal is paying very close attention many will not know if DMR guns are being used at close distance Once again if site allows DMR's up to or just over 400fps the rest of players rely on that owner using it fairly for medium and long distance shots that perhaps normal AEG's just can't quite make And maybe the DMR users not purposely engage enemy in close range Suppose it is all about trust, honesty and playing fair in the end