Sitting Duck

I fell off the chair at this one...

I'm not gonna let this mandatory mask crap ruin my summer...

OK maybe naked airsoft could be a bit horrific on the eyes for most chubby cheaters... not calling your hits - shorts & no shirt for next round or leave the site (lady cheaters - you can sit the next game out in the buff)

it is about right imho... 350fps max on 0.20 or whatever the 1.14j bollox coupled with a mature attitude of not lighting people up at point blank range 350fps, many are say 328fps on a rough average overall (300~349.9999) if below 300 then I'd think about giving it the once over at aiming for Mall's 340 limit On the field at mid range the power/impact drops considerably sure there was a vid showing a 450 sniper, with a chrono say 30~40m away showing how the fps dropped So on that note if you get hit by a few bb's it will lightly sting a bit x a few bb's so it is part of the sport if you get a few hits - though overkill is a cunt On cqb the single shot rule should apply & normally the body is the largest target so "should" be within the pain threshold unless you are a real wimp (the really bitch is getting shot in the back with a tight top on - that can sting at times (but man up ffs, or play Nerf/Fortnight) Also it is about not having a wanker hose machine & some respect for people you are shooting eg: a gun at around 20rps, even if you are still on auto (should be on semi if shooting cqb) should be able to control any real crazy overkill - though if play is still at mid range & you are rushed/flanked then you could be taken by surprise and shoot at a guy close range on auto/3 rnd burst etc.... hopefully an experienced player will not panic and hold trigger to light up the flanker BUT at times shit happens to all of us and welts happen - it is just the stuff airsoft is know for think the limit is about right, providing wankers don't hose others at close range it isn't the gun's fault or the limits - but the twat holding the gun imho if twats don't call their hits - I didn't feel it they keep saying... Right you have a choice - leave or next round you are playing naked (pretty sure you will be calling your hits then)

probably a lightweight pistol so I can run faster nothing in particular, looking at few but need to be aware of the risks I just saw this meme again recently & could totally relate to it - that's all (soz for being an ass & derailing it a bit, but many might relate to it too)

The dilemma I face...

Linkage issue, likely one tooth out or wear On a reg V3 there is the tab that locks the trigger solid The iffy semi/auto is a common problem on AK's Where linkage is worn or not quite correctly located (It "could" be one tooth out on rear linkage Or something is binding when box is refitted into receiver impeding its operation) Investigate further, likely something stupid out of whack on reassembly

shimming is a pita that you get better at the more you do it (hopefully) there's loads of tutorials how to do it & some good/bad a bit loose is better than bit tight yes you kinda start with bevel to pinion but also attention to how the sector is shimmed (roughly half/half spaced but attention it operates but no rubbing on COL or too high sector cam rubs on box casing) plus attention to how the spur shims to both sector (swirl pattern if too close) and attention to ensure plenty of bevel's 10 teeth mesh to spur etc... (if bevel shimmed high & spur really low, little of 10 teeth mesh and stuff flies off or crunches under stress or mild lock up so shimming is all about the spacing of gears/drivechain and how all the components engage as close to perfection as possible (not always very easy to achieve) IF you was on bushings I'd say a ROUGH BALL PARK... Bevel - 0.2mm shim on top, no biggy about underneath really not a massive biggy on JUST this gear underneath coz motor pinion ensures it ain't going far (if you got a small shim left at end then take up some of slack if you wish to) Spur/Step gear 0.2mm UNDERNEATH (whatever is required on top to take up most of slack) Sector gear 0.25mm to 0.3mm roughly so it sits a whisker higher than spur (hopefully avoiding swirls from gears touching in rotation) whatever on top to take up slack, should sit about half way spaced in box for sector gear as you got bearings it is likely you might have a bit more lateral play than on bushings so add 0.05 to 0.10mm to these ref points THE ABOVE IS ONLY A VERY ROUGH STARTING POINT, you have to adjust shit accordingly as each box & gears/build vary loads check motor height with bevel in top half of box on v3's a bit of shrill can be reduced by loosening the motor cage and slightly shifting it, tilting the motor angle slightly to mesh smoother nozzle not returning - uhmm it doesn't always return 100% anyway in most instances the nozzle begins to retract before the piston starts to retract & often the gun's cycle is slowed/stopped by piston retraction or rather the tension on spring building and slowing the motor which means theif nozzle often is at least partial retracted or even starting to release if running quick (and on guns with plenty pre-cock the nozzle has returned already in preparation of firing/piston releasing) so this nozzle fretting is not a big issue in "most" new tech concerns obviously if it isn't operating or jamming then that is another issue but nozzle position is not (usually) a big concern select linkage and stuff - yeah they are a bit of wank safety is that triangle tab on gearbox that jams the 2 part trigger the linkage is a git to get correct if the rear teeth are not aligned correctly (and stay in place as you try to drop the whole thing back in receiver) also clean & lightly grease and parts of selector/linkage checking they glide as smooth as silk if any burrs, smooth them out and ensure it all glides/operates smooth as silk stiff operation on selector mechanism shit will just mean more wear in linkage/selector components sooner massive tip - take photo's on your phone - LOTS OF PHOTO's then you will see how shit goes back together in particular if a certain spring or component goes face down or face up eg: a trigger trolley spring (you don't have one on etu) on reg setup v2 especially can make a difference which way round the body of spring is placed or its orientation (in the way the spring sits to clear the groove in the underside of tappet plate etc...) on selector mechanism at rear - mark it with a pencil to ensure the marks re-align on assembly or other shit like that - just a couple of examples you takea pic or three will greatly assist in reassembly

Don't know if you tried this but wonder if it is the reset to default option or if it is a "Whoa fuck me - what ya doing bro" warning... But the Perun ETU plays Michael Jackson - Smooth Criminal (Eddie are you OK) if you fuck about with it... WTF ???

TBH you got an option to replace the ETU mosfet unit G&G £36 aprox if you can find one or perun £50 inc ship from bravo/bullseye country sport in NI (good seller) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perun-Airsoft-Upgrade-Mosfet-Kit-For-G-G-ETU-System-AB-LiPo-Ready-Burst-bbs/133377231128?hash=item1f0de70918:g:vv0AAOSwhQhehetA OR contact Luke/Negative Airsoft perhaps You could buy a V3 box, hopefully an AK with AK nozzle, trigger, selector and hope it fits OK some v3's don't always simply slide into all other guns as is, at times a bit of modding required (some will gladly take a std Cyma v3 & others will take a JG one but might need modding or vice versa) those are two very common/cheap v3's out there, but there "might" be some minor fitting niggles to overcome hence if you got a sound box that is compatible - stick with that and have it rebuilt (Luke or some other respected tech) They can overhaul it and no doubt if old it is need of service and doubt if compression/seals are that great Chuck in a basic mosfet, maybe the tiny perun https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perun-Micro-Airsoft-Mosfet/164224757298?epid=25036277200&hash=item263c8eee32:g:zngAAOSwP7ZdHKsv So you can run on 11.1v, new col, trigger switch & some other bits n bobs give it the once over and getting firing all dandy yes labour & shipping issue, but atm you got a £300 when new gun that is wanked so spending a bit of money WISELY is not such a bad thing you can go nutz or Luke will advise you on the best cost effective course of action according to your budget Or you can attempt to have a go yourself if you feel up to it, but will require some rewiring/soldering or clean it up, slap some grease in there & buy the perun etu those are the 3 options I would consider (than buy a box that shoots too hot on an imported cyma v3 box & hope it fits first time)

Pity G&G don't use them instead of Dairy Lea ETU units, especially on their higher price guns nice to know it works well, but wish they was cheaper, even £50 inc shipping is a bit much I'm being a bit miffed, but mainly coz the G&G unit is so shit (some people have been lucky and works fine still even on 7.4v, but there are a lot of issues with ETU's) Paying a bit above other similar guns, to then have to be faced with replacing something that is so defective spending around £50 or so, or at least a tenner converting it back to basic trigger plus time/cost is a wank G&G - lovely looking guns, but jeez some of their ideas & innovations have made matters worse not more reliable G&G R&D dept: ETU design & testing... The most annoying thing is that you can't just plug a basic mosfet in due to the 4 thin wire lead, one is power, then a signal to each of 3 switches (power, trigger, col switch & slector switch at back of trigger unit) so the fucking thing is only for the ETU & can't drop a basic mosfet or warfet or owt in there so you are faced with another Dairy Lea G&G ETU mosfet, luckily the Perun option but still not cheap or rip the whole lot out and start again old school real PITA these fancy bespoke units - especially with G&G's reliability (ultra sarcasm)

Yup ETU 1 is red and the ETU unit is fucking wanked wanked wanked Had a FFR2 A2, changed motor and it blew the ETU - WTF ??? Ripped it all out, old school trigger switch, 13:1 etc... So me personally that is what I would do or there is the option of Perun unit but it ain't ultra cheap.... https://www.taiwangun.com/en/wires-lasers/g-g-etu-upgrade-kit-perun?from=listing&campaign-id=19 Yeah it is very tricky to install (sarcasm) but supposed to work properly http://perunairsoft.pl/products/gg-etu-upgrade-kit/ but me personally I'd rip it all out and go back to traditional old school trigger coz G&G will still be a bit Dairy Lea, Perun won't leave you much change out of say £60 with shipping and for that price, I could spend on 13:1, 25~30k motor, steel rack piston & cheap basic or diy (non burst bollox) mosfet (you got 22k motor so forget the 25/30k motor, maybe 16:1 gears, 13:1's might be a bit too quick unless you short stroke on 11.1v a couple of bushings under spur & maybe bevel, basic mosfet, normal switch, steel rack piston (shs blue perhaps & cyma piston head or something that provides good seal, run on 11.1v sorted) Well that is likely what I'd do but to each their own - but fuck G&G's ETU bollox imho PS - looking at your pic, you might need a new COL, as it looks a bit different to reg v3 COL (the lug that pops the reg trigger trolley looks to be set back to activate the micro switch on ETU trigger board) see that wedge bit on right of arm, looks different to the G&G one in your ETU box so a steel SHS COL might be needed to go old school, I noticed when I checked your pic - just saying Before you do owt, test the board is completely dead by just having motor out of box change fuse, but likely it is fucked mine went a bit wanky, kept blowing fuses with motor out of box and got hot yeah fuck that shitty unit right off I decided

Bit confused here.... It "sounds" like a possible COL but gun is new-ish or recently purchased (but then 2 round burst on auto sounds odd) Ahhh but it is an ETU fuck pig so that would explain a burst on auto (but that would be 3rnd or potential 5rnd burst option on ETU2 units) Now we know the common AK selector issue going from semi/auto/semi etc... But this TWO round burst is a bit odd - should be 3 (and/or 5 round burst) on ETU I would have thought but still get single shot semi & then 3 (or 5 option on blue etu2) or just auto on ergh auto First of all - what battery are you using ETU's can/do play up on 7.4v so best to run on 9.6v or 11.1v, (11.1v is best perhaps) (normally, iffy etu's simply refuse to work on lower 7.4v, but wondering if lower volts causing an issue) Secondly - RTFM (Read The Fucking Manual) for info about setting/changing the burst mode COULD be an iffy ETU - the main unit near battery, as they are made from Dairy Lea Turn off/disable the burst mode (RTFM) and start again so semi & auto operates correctly In that sort of gun, I would have just used 11.1v with 18k motor to get you near say 20rps and with the 22k you should be on or just a whisker over 20rps It appears to be crane stock AK so assume the battery goes under the hood/dust cover which this battery MIGHT be about your limit - but YOU need to check it will fit (inc wires) https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-nano-tech-1300mah-3s-25-50c-lipo-airsoft-pack.html?queryID=c2ca5915ed20ee36fc43e6fc49de517d&objectID=31045&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products RTFM, check your battery is OK, and give us a bit more info... it might be a moody selector, but the etu causes more issues in some guns than it is supposed to solve or if gun is still in warranty contact retailer (hmm good luck with that) but I'm a little confused with 2rnd burst in both modes so if possible read manual, turn off burst etc... and update us with a bit more info perhaps

The thread on them flash-hider's or rather lack/no thread - just whacked on is what many of the £70 M4 ultra cheapo 5xx like CM515 & CM517's have (517 is a nice cheap medium 300m barrel Raider clone) The cheapo AK CM520 is cheapo 28a with plastic dust cover & stuff & flash-hider can't be removed on 520 like on the 28a, though probably won't that bothered on a cheapy AK like the 520 offers However I think the shorter 521 AK, you can unscrew/remove the flash-hider (but still has plastic dust cover & I think plastic/cheap charging handle on 520/521 AK's The cheapo flip sights on the M4's look/feel very fragile, likely to break over time in cold weather The cheapo £70 Cyma's are fantastic value though, even with stuff like push on flash-hiders, fragile sights or replacing cheapy plastic dust cover on AK etc... means on AK's, time you replaced certain parts... You might have well just bought the better 028a AK instead - though the 521 AK might be alright at a push In other words, the money you save on "some" Cyma's, could be a little false economy if replacing stuff later or at the very least stuff to remember when selecting a decent cheap AEG (but I paid a LOT more for far worse toy guns) great review once again Shame you can't seem to use 11.1v though ??? Yeah Cyma brass barrels are pretty decent/good for a cheap stock barrel with nice crown (not much wrong with the barrel itself) better than hacked up bit of alloy pipe you often find just slung in some budget guns

It is an updated D-Boys 416 or rather 614 or BI-8001 or 801 (or other variation of codes/styles) They chucked in the outer extension barrel on the 614 but had a shorter barrel on mine My 416/614 had a horrid clear plastic hop unit I think, that never really held its setting and mediocre at best & gearbox was a 7mm bearing reinforced V2, meaning it needing a bit of modding to fit 13:1's mine were front wired with a PEQ box, that got rewired to rear Gun is pretty weighty as it is Aside from a few meh bits n bobs it is a pretty decent cheap 416 without trades cheaper than the WE 888 416, though the D-Boy does need a few tweaks where some cost corners were cut (fine if you don't mind a bit of DIY, maybe not for others who are not wanting to gut their new peew peew) Nice to see a better hop unit and longer barrel on this model Might be a 8mm box by now, think D-Boys have just used/sold/changed the name & revised their 614 a bit Nice budget 416's, needs a tweak but overall I'm pleased with my 416/614's for what I paid for them NB: sorry to crash thread, would love to see if the box has been updated when you get a chance nice purchase & review btw (mods - please delete this post as it would likely spoil an excellent review of new 416)

Bloody beautiful if may say so if anybody stages a POTC night then Jack Sparrow will be in touch... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S46TLFLGEcY

Usually up against the gearbox, many find gives the best results I've done the 3 hand chrono test a few times to check stuff out before I sling it back in gun or to confirm a process of elimination etc... but shifty hops in some guns can cause fps drops, hence things like springs/o-rings on hops help to ensure some shifty hops stay put or in place better other hops on different guns are more fastened in place like on AK's but M4's often benefit from a spring(s) or o-ring mod and/or o-ring method... just to stop the hop trying to come forward when say a mag is inserted thus pulling it away from box and creating a leak that drops fps etc...

Is JustBB still a bad company in 2020? think it is a bad company whatever the year or vintage (it ain't like fine wine that gets better with age) so is still a bad company... seriously they are the LAST company I would ever order from OnlyBBGuns or BBGuns4Less are a tiny tiny bit better than Jambwow But ONLY IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE BUYING !!! coz they still sell crappy plinkers mostly but they do sell some stuff that isn't complete $hit I'm NOT recommending this but here is an example.... https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/cyma-cm517-m4-with-ras-handguard-in-blue.html Now that ain't bad at first glance with free ship & if you get a discount code BUT I will lay money that is gonna be a hot 390fps gun so needs downgrading so money you thought you might save over a 330fps one at a decent retailer or buying a better G&G Raider or something, will be lost getting it downgraded (or time for somebody to sort it out, plus still be a cheapo Cyma M4 model) So the best advice before parting with money on buying the best gun evvvaaaaaa is to have a butchers & pop back with some links of what you are considering Honestly - don't make some of mistakes many of us made buying stuff from Mickey Mouse Alright Geez Dominic at BBGuns4Less sells some half decent stuff (but most stuff on there is back garden plinky stuff) Same as Only - aka iWholesales sell some stuff but many are not so great So be careful what you fall in love with & not just the cheap pricing When buying your first gun...

well to be completely honest... is fairly accurate at times

Hold up !!!! this is an ongoing issue is it not ??? Now it "seems" that the cyma MP5 nozzle is a 21.4 ish nozzle... https://www.airsoftforum.com/topic/241139-massive-air-seal-nozzle-leakeage-on-a-cyma-mp5sd/ so it seems 21.4 to 21.5 ish is required... (also heard a Galaxy MP5k nozzle likes a SHS M4 too but the "shoulder" of red SHS M4 is too fat so needs modding to nozzle shoulder or modding/widen the Galaxy hop entry so chubby nozzle can operate smoothly) in other words not all MP5 nozzles are the usual MP5 length (different guns makes/hops work with different nozzle lengths than 1 size fits all) Also different nozzles sit differently or better/worse on some tappets... the clear cheapo cyma tappet is loose as f**k with a red SHS m4 nozzle (hence me using a SHS tappet but needs modding up front with cut outs for cyma box) What I might suggest is grab a SHS V2 tappet as these tappets retract most might be a bit bent, so straighten the right angle up front in hot water to true 90 degrees sand the front of tappet plate a bit, mod the sides up front to work in Cyma box if you sand the tappet front edge on a table with emery paper it will return a whisker further then you could carefully and very lightly sand the red M4 nozzle a whisker - just a whisker but as you sanded the front it will return to seal on hop unit/bucking... The new SHS tappet should retract further and allow a bb to chamber on a lightly sanded M4 nozzle (that still returns to seal as tappet front is sanded a bit) check for fin hitting axle of sector as in pic you may need to file it very slightly and very carefully smack bang in line with axle don't worry about not retracting long enough - delayers are not the solution to all feed issues a friggin' DSG fin is so short it retracts for a split second then returns... It is mostly about ensuring the tappet window is correct that is pulls back enough to chamber allowing a sprung loaded bb to slip in and chamber to bucking etc.... It don't matter shit if you got a mega delayer - if there is only 5.5mm room it will never chamber a 6mm bb past the nozzle so a long nozzle throws stuff out and seals great but feeding is shit or a shorter nozzle feeds great but seal is crap a worn fin, incorrect nozzle, protruding bucking lips and f**k knows what else will cause feed issues and V2 boxes have less overall retraction than V3's so on V2's the tappet window is more critical Yeah I'd be tempted to get a SHS v2 tappet, start modding the cutouts for Cyma box sand the front, check it is straight and 90 degrees, very very slightly sand the SHS M4 nozzle perhaps open box up, check & mark where fin meets sector axle - file with tiny round craft file at exact point check the tappet fully returns to front of box clearing the axle of sector as in pic Also check the tappet in TOP part of box with cylinder head, sector gear etc... check it doesn't bottom out on full retraction with cylinder head (SHS tappets do retract more) if delay clip is still on sector, check you don't feel a "bump" which is the delayer clip bumping the underside of tappet runner right underneath as the cam/delayer starts to engage the top of fin... if you feel this "bump" or slight resistance, then you need to lightly file the area about 1~3mm just in front of top of fin on the underside of tappet runner by the fin... BUT ONLY do this IF you feel a bump or resistance when testing in top half of box *** NB *** When I say 1~3mm I'm talking about the AREA or POSITION of AREA 1~3mm in front of fin NOT file off up to 3mm in depth - there will hardly anything left and fin would just tear off just a very light file around the few mm's just in front of tappet runner in front of fin Literally a very small filing & sanding just where cam might bump the runner If no "bump" is felt when testing it top of box - then don't worry about it, but important you check Test the tappet operation in top half of box - sounds weird but just do it When you test in the lower half there is too much play with sector wobble to truly check stuff So checking the final tappet retraction is much more accurate in top half of box (though you can't quite see the cam/fin operation, you see the full travel and feel for "bump") When all that is done, ensure the fin doesn't get stopped by axle, mod if needed (quite likely) then ensure smaller diameter shims are used as less likely to impede fin than jumbo shims IF tappet is risking bottoming out on cylinder head.... and IF you used one like this.... Look carefully at bottom of head and there is a small ridge.... Take off the o-rings, plop on a shitty old nozzle then file off that curved ridge at bottom CAREFULLY clean up and refit o-rings etc... Bit of f**king about but will gain you a potential extra 0.5mm to say 0.75mm or so space so tappet won't bottom out of cylinder head when retracting to its furthest point (the cylinder itself might be close to hitting the back of tappet but check in top box) if cylinder is just starting to touch the tappet, you could just file it very very slightly so that when you test (again in top half of box) it moves way way back and the whole operation is met with no resistance, no "bumps" or bottoming out and full complete return to front of box coz you carefully filed the fin by sector axle THEN you have a tappet that retracts as far back as possible & smoothly returns fully so you therefore have the largest tappet travel to give you a bigger tappet window With the correct nozzle in there, you should get a great seal and reliably feed bb's even on so-so mags THAT is about the best advice of everything I check for and nigh on every trick I have used to get max retraction etc... BUT as always it is down to YOU to check all this crap out and see if it all operates smoothly and effectively etc.... The SHS tappet will retract the most the round delayer I used in pic is brill, retracts more coz it has a bit of material over sector cam BUT using this delayer on SHS tappets that retract more does often mean it can bottom out and risk bumping tappet runner underneath It also retracts so much it bottoms out so need to give it some room to fully retract where ever possible But after all this f**king about, plus the modding for Cyma v2 boxes you will gain about 1mm extra retraction or just over that will greatly assist if not eliminate any feed issues (at least from tappet/nozzle retraction - w@nky bucking or hop or assembly alignment is another issue) As the V2's have about 1mm overall less tappet retraction than a V3 when stuff starts wearing like the fin, or nozzle spec or tolerances go just a tiny bit out of whack... you get fps loss or pi$$ poor feeding coz the allowance for nozzle clearing & sealing is so close As said if fin is worn, nozzle way too long, delayer will do little if fin hits axle, the tappet won't 101% fully return to seal so might need modding at axle area to ensure it returns if you look at Cyma's blue tappet you see they chopped the axle area... A SHS will need modding but found they retract a whisker more than other tappets so check some $hit out, do some tests order up a SHS tappet, use SHS M4 nozzle and do some tiny modifications for max tappet travel You MUST check for bottoming out coz if you allow it you will lose a whisker of retraction plus increased wear on fin or worse if tappet break/failure - so check $hit carefully !!! best of luck

It "sounds" like hop issue to me but I don't own one A quick test to do first: with box & hop out... when the nozzle is fully forward 101% place hop unit up against the box... you should "feel" the nozzle starting to seal against the bucking lips with still say a bit more to go before the hop rests 101% against the front of box then in normal operation the nozzle "should" be sealing properly If the above test is all OK then it could be a nozzle/tappet issue (the tappet is catching, not returning 101% in use) Or try std nozzle, sand tappet front a little but sounds like the nozzle is never sealing against bucking properly like the lips are way short of sealing with nozzle and air is pissing out or nozzle used is not sliding/aligned with hop correctly like a fat nozzle that is tight fit or catching against the hop and stopping it sealing (some nozzles - the "shoulder" can be too wide/fat on some hops & catch or drag in operation eg: some brand new G&G M4 hops are a bit of pinch with a SHS M4 nozzle & risk snagging) Your fps is way way way low you gotta test that the nozzle does seal against the bucking lips get them out - mate them up and see if you feel a bit of resistance from bucking lips they should just start to touch and you should have near 1mm gap from box say so when the hop is mated up properly there is a good seal of nozzle to bucking lips If that works out OK, next thing is to grow another pair of hands.... plop a bb into hop/barrel, mate it all up and chrono a few times... might take a few attempts to get it to fire a bb through chrono etc.... but hopefully you get a shot or two off through chrono.... if that says 300fps instead of 150fps or whatever you are getting then issue is the assembly of hop to box or the hop being shifted away from box when mag is inserted like it can happen on M4's if no spring or stuff pressing hop back towards box It "sounds" like bucking is way away from nozzle and think it "might" be poor alignment or tight fit nozzle or hop shifting forwards never letting nozzle seal properly (be it mag shifting it forwards or some other weird shit) break it down - the box & hop break down the problem testing them with 3 hands that they do kinda seal OK & chrono if that checks out then it is an alignment or fitting issue in gun - quite possible if you can feel it sealing with you holding the hop/box together then the bucking is not fitted correctly or needs investigating or nozzle/tappet issue (might have to go back to stock bits n bobs to get it working again & go from there) it is a process of elimination in most cases, often shit goes out of whack with more new parts but I'm tending to think if parts are compatible then something in the box/hop alignment has gone out of whack you got a m95 spring delayer 13:1 etc.... what battery you using and what motor - in other words what rps ??? I mean you got a delayer on it but what sort type ??? I doubt if tappet timing is an issue unless you are using a massive delayer & enormous fin but depending on tests... another area to consider is the chunky SHS sector with a chunky axle could be impeding the tappet returning 101% so the nozzle does not return fully coz the tappet fin is stopped by chunky axle on sector gimme a sec... pic says 1,000 words - see the sector axle & fin needed a bit of modding to prevent the tappet being stopped short on sector axle... now this mod was coz I sanded the thick front of SHS tappet, but it can risk catching a bit anyway (ahh the good ol' TM compatible bollox), when you start changing stuff The friggin' attention details on EVERY f**king part you change should NEVER be taken for granted coz this TM compatible BS means next to nothing - some shit works but often it don't just drop in many bits need checking and often a bit of sanding or tweak to ensure it works 101% as it should your nozzle "might" be risk being restricted by the fin stopping short on a chunky SHS sector BUT I don't know for certain in your case but it CAN happen in some builds (and SHS gears are quite chunky) Or - you could have the fin snagging on chunky shims on a low sector that a big diameter shim on top of sector starts to catch the fin at times in operation (it is rare but I always save smaller external diameter shims for top of sector) than use big fat diameter shims on top of sector.... or at least use smaller shims first on sector and a fatty shim last (you get the idea - watch out for potential fin snagging on sector axle/shims) but there are loads of things it "could" be a bit more info, a few tests an a pic or two could help, but a few ideas to try hope some of this crap helps PS - soz for overload/long post - but do the hand hop/box test first before you start stripping down stuff I suggest It is going to be something really really stupid & silly so don't go ultra nutz tearing things apart though maybe consider some of the crap and check EVERYTHING & EVERYWHERE when you starting changing & altering things in future builds to reduce potential headaches (if shit can go wrong then Murphy's Law says it will regarding TM Compatible crap)

That is a lot of money when really you only need this..... PS I love the 18yr warning about this not a f**king toy