Samurai

What do you mean by "whining post cycle"? It's not a good idea running a normal AEG on 11.1V because it will burn the contacts on the trigger switch. Make a simple MOSFET circuit that protects it, then it should be fine. However if there are weird sounds when using it, there is probably something else is going on with the gun. High torque motor will only make it cycle faster and possibly double feeding, plus since it will draw much higher current, it will burn the switch much faster. All in all, if it is a backup gun, you might be better off with a 7.4V lipo and not modifying the gun itself.

Don't worry. In the UK half the players would faint hearing the first blank shot and the next day youtube would be full of videos of "REAL STEEL GUN SHOT MADE MY EAR BLEED".

For years you will perform the same with a good working £100 AEG and a good working £400 one. If all the skills and gear are sorted, that's when you will be able to use the quality difference, if at all. Ranges: reliably hitting targets at 50m is good for an AEG, 60m is very good. DMR-ing adds a few meters, +10 maybe. Tuned 500fps sniper rifles hit in the 70-90m range.

Advanced topics: Heavier BBs will fly further than light ones if fired with the same energy. We are talking about normal BB weights and site legal energies. Heavier BBs fired from the same gun will have more energy than lighter ones if the gas volume is matching the barrel for the heavy one. BB fired with hop on will have way more energy than with hop off. In VSR style guns. Meaning there's so much more than simple ballistics affecting an airsoft gun that it looks like at first. It's a very very complex system. Tests and observations get us further than speculating on a subset of physics laws in effect.

But ballistic calculators don't incorporate backspin, because real steel bullets don't do that. They can not give you anything remotely accurate results for airsoft. It affects range and trajectory for BBs more than anything else. This is ballistic: https://gfycat.com/calmmammothatlanticridleyturtle This is with backspin (Magnus effect) https://gfycat.com/greatvillainouslabradorretriever You are correct about weights, etc, but that's not the whole picture.

Those seem to be some soft metal slugs. My guess is that it works like a bullet, and expands into the rifling. The more pressure it has behind it, the more it expands, creating more friction and slowing down the slug.

Airsoft BBs have backspin that greatly affect the trajectory. Most of them at least. There's an indoor sniping thing in Japan where they have very precisely built rifles with no hopup to shoot coin sized targets in close, 10-20m ranges. No hopup because that makes them less accurate. Only my empirical evidence, but I will try to look it up, because I've read it somewhere first. And it changed my life.

Bucking hardness is for the fps measured with the weight used. Not with what the fps would be with 0.20g.

If you are using heavy BBs (which you should), use a hardness 50-60 houpup rubber. They are the best for about 330-350 fps which you should aim for. If you use light bbs (you shouldn't), so the fps is around 450, then use a hard rubber. So it is not x fps measured with 0.20g, but the actual fps you measure with the weight you use.

You can sell the parts. Even if they make up a complete gun, because manufacturing a RIF is an offence when they want to assemble them. And that's on them, not on you.

I had a few lipos go puffy because I stored them fully charged.

Sniping is not easy on the legs.

Nice concept. The trigger guard looks very small though.

And it doesn't leak now?

I never understood printing 100%.

I had the same exact experience not that long ago.

My tip is to not to get the glass bed. Get an aluminium one and stick a 0.3mm PEI sheet on it. That stuff is brilliant. Sand it once thoroughly with fine sandpaper.

I agree that it is convenient to glue/smooth with acetone, but this guy is confirming what I've also found when printing ABS for airsoft.

Why? PLA is stronger, just don't leave in the sun in a closed car, which you probably shouldn't do to any guns.

^^This. It's crap. I mean the CO2 bolt.

The Striker's cylinder and piston is straight to bin unfortunately.

Fuck. Now you've ruined it for me.

Are you cursed with the pistols? ? Nope

You don't actually need a new hop rubber or whatnot, unless you got a lemon. It can shoot 70m nicely with the factory ones. The nozzle does stay in the rubber until it hits the thing that holds the springs, that's how it is supposed to work. It needs to stay in the barrel and on the mag until the bolt (or whatever that's cycling) is back enough. Then the spring pulls it back, once out of the barrel, so it can load the next BB.

Actionhobbies motor clearout. I ordered one because why not and I got a blue bottom Chinese one, which is one of the best high torque motors available. So I ordered 3 more and 2 of those are blue bottom ones, one is a normal Chinese motor. http://www.actionhobbies.co.uk/Standard-AEG-Replacement-Motor-Without-Pinion-Long_A227A7.aspx?nh=281823