ak2m4

Is there that much dimensional difference? Or can one bodge a regular v3 with a dremel, a file and a drill?

This is something I've never heard claimed before. I'm not saying that it's wrong, but If there's more than a tiny fraction of a mm of movement then that's begging for feeding or air-seal issues as you change the nozzle-to-bucking distance. Also, plenty of us replace the stock spring in an M4 with o-rings specifically to squish everything together more tightly.
 
My Specna EDGE is quite fussy, and its mags have different dimensions to most of my other random collection of M4/M16/STANAG mags.
 
In particular, the distance from the front to the feed tube is a full 1mm larger than (e.g.) my short VN style mags.  Having measured it, I knew that I needed to shim the front of the VN mags with the loop (fabric) side of some self-adhesive velcro tape, which has helped the feeding.
 

 
 
But wait, there's more. Even the BB-stopper inside the magazine feed is different. The VN mag stopper goes further into the feed than the Specna one does, and there's a distinct flat section that protrudes into the feed, thusly.
 

 
 
This can lead to the mag not wanting to insert at all as the hop unit feed tube hangs up on top of the magazine stopper, and needs a good wiggle to get it to actually insert.
 
To ameliorate that, I very carefully filed and sanded the rear of the hop unit feed tube to angle it more. This helps it to slide into the magazine and push the stopper out of the way.
 

 
The tl;dr version is: don't guess, observe and measure. Calipers and a magnifying glass or jeweller's loupe are better than speculation.
 
 

I'm guessing they build up a number of orders (whole order) before shipping out from Poland in order to bulk ship?  Cheaper for them but can introduce delays.  I had Airsoft stuff on a BOAT leave China mid November and arrive December 27th.  Sometimes customs will stop shipments and check all items meets conformity etc, had that happen once with some chrono's, they said the chrono's weren't supplier with instructions, waited almost 3 months for them.  The instructions were sitting in the box.  Nightmare.  

As your part isn't that expensive worth ordering another one from HK?

Oh wow thanks man.  Keep an eye out on 2024 for inner barrels and brushless motors, plus more custom part.

I have ordered a few things from AK2M4, nothing missing or faulty, good comms and delivery. I am in the UK.
 
When something wasn't in stock, I have been offered a similar part at no additional cost, after asking first.
 
When I have the choice, I order from here.

Recently got a SLONG (revised version) of it's V2 shell for some testing, was impressed with the finishing on it, powder coating I think, very smooth and clean.  It's missing some radius, got QD, very decent stainless steel spring guide with a bearing.  Could do with some better wire channelling.   On the surface compatibility looks good but till you try it in every brand you never quite know.
 

Recently got a SLONG (revised version) of it's V2 shell for some testing, was impressed with the finishing on it, powder coating I think, very smooth and clean.  It's missing some radius, got QD, very decent stainless steel spring guide with a bearing.  Could do with some better wire channelling.   On the surface compatibility looks good but till you try it in every brand you never quite know.
 

One of his other adverts:

https://www.airsoft-hub.com/item/16125

He will pay postage! How fucking generous.

I do think it's helpful of Specna to have named their gearbox, so that we can know what to avoid.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

Rough'ish, just waiting on lots of stuff to arrive but with Chinese holidays round the corner might be slow going.  So a good time to work on new website and do some product design stuff that I've been meaning to get around to.  Really want to stock some decent well priced qd gearbox shells but the age old problem is compatibility and availability.  Trying hard though to work with existing suppliers to make a few adjustments.   

The Ultimate Gearbox is a Lonex rebrand, very nice part but no QD spring sadly.  Orion probably best bet but quite high with the shipping from EU etc.  Delta Armoury looks good enough and decent price.  

Rough'ish, just waiting on lots of stuff to arrive but with Chinese holidays round the corner might be slow going.  So a good time to work on new website and do some product design stuff that I've been meaning to get around to.  Really want to stock some decent well priced qd gearbox shells but the age old problem is compatibility and availability.  Trying hard though to work with existing suppliers to make a few adjustments.   

I'd guess the stronger spring and 11.1 were too much for a standard shell.
You probably had a poor air seal so compensating with a heavier spring is not the way to go.
Personally I would never use an 11.1 in a standard gearbox but I hate high rof builds anyway. 😉

Happy New year chaps and chappesses.  Got back from the land of the little people so feeling a bit zoned out.
 
Thought I'd have a look at my beloved Specna as it sounded awful last game day and wasn't feeding.  Was hoping it was the tappet spring again but no:
 

 
So that's Donald Ducked.
 
 
The two spare boxes i have dont quite fit for different reasons,  so off to Cage Airsoft it goes for dealing with it (wiring harness is fecked too).
 
Looking forward to a skirmish day, but Spec Ops isn't open until Feb, so maybe South Herts or AWA.
 
Hope everyone had a good break?

Yes & no, fets, sound generators, tracers, smoke generators, various options for recoil, hpa, wanker guns, the list is seemingly endless. 
Or, you could run a bog standard aeg with technology more than 25 years old, & still dominate the battlefield. 
Works for me 😁
 
 
 
 
(sometimes lol😏) 

Always a pleasure ordering from here, never had any issues.
 
Ordered one of his new XT 6.02 Inner barrels and a maple leaf 60 bucking & nub.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

I wanted to test the theory of barrel scratches, I took 3 barrels, brass, aluminium and stainless steel.  Did a borescope video before on all 3, then used a nylon cleaner brush 15 passes on each one, then cleaned with tissue and isopropanol, then another borescope video.  I was expecting perhaps some scratch on the brass but nothing on any of them.  Just be 2 cents worth.  

@Yashy Have a watch on YT at how to remove and clean an inner barrel, it will also explain to you about how to clean and remove the hop chamber and hop rubber.   If you plan on playing quite a lot this information will really help you get the most out of your AEG.

It does look like you are clearing some grease from the barrel, which is a good thing.  There will be some resistance but, if it is too much, use less cleaning rag.  I would not use a paper towel, though.  Use something softer to reduce the risk of scratching the barrel; I use strips of J-Cloth with Isopropyl alcohol.  Make sure you do not damage the hop rubber.  It is better to take the barrel out of the gun to do it, if possible; that enables you to get a good look down the barrel to make sure it is clean.
 

Been recently having a play around and checking out the internals of the new Cyma platinum SLR AKs. A couple of things stand out to me.
 
The new hop unit (Yes the one with inbuilt tracer...) has had a lot of thought put into it. Tracers are not my thing however you can easily turn it off with a flick of a switch. The one thing however that I really like about it is that they have fixed the issue where the hop setting self adjusts. Usually this is done by an O-ring however as some as you know it is not always the most reliable. What CYMA have done with this unit is under the adjustment slider they have added a little hole where a spring sits with a plastic tip (Like the ones you get under M4 selectors to give the *click*). They have then serrated the the underneath of the adjustment slider. This means you can do tiny clicks of movement easily and it also sits nice and rigid.
 
The gearbox is a DYTAC gearbox which I believe CYMA are the OEM of so it should be nice and strong. It has the typical platinum internals with it being 13:1, mosfet and the cyma blue compression parts. One thing I have noticed is that I believe the shop where it is purchased it from has put in a different motor from stock. Usually CYMA platinum motors have a cyma logo on the side where as this one has a white stick label on on it that says 'To go into CYMA blue' or something alone the lines.  It seems like putting in a m120 with the 13:1 it doesn't like it 100% so will be putting in a ZCI 22 in.
 
Overall quite impressed with it all. There needs to be a slight modification to the piston which I might update this post with once done. Also might put in a different mosfet if this one fails (Ideally a perun hybrid v3 but I'm not great at soldering).