straffham

when you release the anti reversal latch the spring pushes the piston to the point of least resistance. Thus when you pull the trigger the motor has a few microseconds longer to build up torque and speed hence will fire, then if you stop firing, unless the spring is again under least resistance, the motor obviously isn't able to pull the spring for whatever reason. So if the wiring is ok and the battery is ok the motor does sound the likely problem. By manual cycling I take it you mean turning the gears by inserting a screwdriver into the motor hole in the gearbox? Yes this is very hard to do on a fully working gun anyway so doesn't really prove anything. One more thought, have you tried adjusting the motor height screw? This is usually a grub screw inside the cage that holds the motor in place, inside the hole the pistol grip screw screws into? Could be it needs slackening a little?

Glad you find it helpful! AK gearboxes are Version 3 and the one Lozart listed is compatible, bear in mind it includes the motor too, compared to UK prices its a good price for a complete gearbox with motor. Anyhow the trigger contact switch has roughly parallel brass/ phosphor bronze contacts which are bridged by a metal contact which slots between them when the trigger is pulled. They should be clean and make good contact, any blackening is a sign of arcing (spark erosion) which reduces electrical efficiency (this alone can result in the motor not pulling the spring as you describe). So these parts should be clean (use a burnishing brush or fine wet & dry paper if need be) and the 2 parallel contacts should "spring" slightly when they are bridged (sometimes bending them toward each other a tiny bit helps but be careful they don't snap off, and also that the bridge piece still slides between them). As for bushings yes its the diameter of the narrower part that counts (ie the hole in the gearbox shell they sit in). Try Pete from this forum for parts, he may be able to sort you out. His website is: www.ak2m4.co.uk

I'd be surprised if it was the motor, but its a possibility. Equally it could be the trigger contacts or battery connector has some wear resulting in poor electrical contact, it would be worth checking them as it costs nothing to do so. Bushings come in different sizes (older guns generally have 6mm bushings, newer ones generally are 8mm so you'll need to check if you replace them. But as Chock says the only surefire way of sorting it first time is a new gearbox.

Welcome!

Any idea on the problem? I have had a Star M60 for 8 or 9 years, not sure how similar the box mags are to A&K but I had no end of problems within days of buying it, namely the box mag motor burnt out as the cut off switch didn't do its job. I then had to wait 2 months for it to be sorted under warranty. It did exactly the same 2 weeks later. Luckily it uses a cheapo 3 or 6v motor and I picked up a few similar ones (slightly longer) from Squires Model tools for 50p each, and eventually wired the motor via a 3 way switch and spare mini tamiya connector into the trigger contacts so it winds only when the trigger is pulled, the other switch settings being off and mag battery auto feed (last only used when the mag has just been fitted to wind bb's into the gun, then switch to trigger contact operation). Works a treat now, and not had any trouble with overheating despite the higher voltage to the mag motor.

Ok, I promise not to spend anything tomorrow, hopefully economic stability will return shortly . . .

Big spender of the day award goes to me: Olive drab long sleeve T-shirt. £2.50 in Tesco sale.

I have had my 1911 not empty a full mag on a very cold (almost freezing) day yes. But I think any other make except possibly a CO2 powered one would have been worse in fairness. I have a TM M9 which is great, their Glocks, Hi-capas, Sigs, 1911's and derivatives are all popular along with newer ones like the H&K 45.

Welcome to the forum!

Same gun and yes its plastic slide (and frame afaik) with some metal parts. Its Marui so will be very good quality, reliable, and excellent accuracy. The plastic slide will give fast cycle time and better cold weather operation than a metal slide, so its advantages outweigh the nicer feel of a metal one to be honest. Metal upgraded slides are probably available anyway if you can't live with it. The only slight disadvantage is the magazines (1911 type) are narrow so don't hold as much gas as say a Glock or M9 and some have found it won't empty a full mag in cold weather. I have the standard Marui 1911 and its my go to pistol. You won't go wrong with a Marui pistol.

assuming the spring you're using worked fine before it sounds as J.Cheeseright says like the piston is very slightly different somehow. I've known aftermarket pistons to vary and had the same problem you have. Check the slide rails on side of the piston are exactly the same width as the original piston (as well as the groove between the rails being the same depth and width). Also did you check the piston moves freely and smoothely when you installed it? Simplest way to do this is to reassemble the GB with just the piston/piston head and cylinder in, no spring, screw it shut (don't just hold the 2 GB halves together) and then using a screwdriver insert it where the air nozzle would be and push the piston back and forth. It should move easily and smoothly. Any tightspots indicate something needs sanding down slightly (Spring torque in the equation can make a slight tight spot into a potential jam). Once happy make sure you use good lube on the whole length of the cast rails inside the GB, as well as on the spring guide. Just another thought, are the battery, wiring and trigger contact switch in perfect condition? Any power loss here can lead to jamming like you describe too. Have you a more powerful battery you can try? EDIT D'OH my messenger is slow, sounds like you've sorted the jamming now lol!

SRC AKS74U GBBR magazine (so 4 in total now) SHS ASG pistol silencer adapter (for my CZ75 compact) AK Rubber butt stock extension (for my AK47; the crappy soft plastic one that came with the wood kit being rubbish, and to give the stock a tad more length). From Airsoft World.

Welcome to the forum! Several guys on here have SVD's of various manufacture and there have been several threads on the subject on here too. Enjoy!

Drop Pete "ak2m4" a line on here, he has SHS & ZCI steel gearsets at very favourable prices, I've used SHS sets and find them excellent. Or his website www.ak2m4.co.uk is great for internal parts.

The hop ("hop up unit") is the airsoft equivalent of the chamber, ie when the gun is loaded its where the bb sits, it consists of a HOP RUBBER around the inner barrel which holds the bb in place until the moment of firing, and also has a small area which pushes down on the bb to create backspin to increase range, which can be adjusted to increase or decrease the effect, via a small wheel on the side of the hop unit, or a grub screw under it, or as on some Glocks, turning a castle nut via the ejection port (I'm not sure which system the WE uses, not the last one though by look of your pics). So if you manually put a bb in the hop unit will it fire ok? If the hop rubber is too tight the bb may not enter and seat correctly and thus may not fire, but roll back down the ramp/cup when the slide opens,but this assumes the slide doesn't close fully against the barrel and therefore won't fire? Perhaps you can confirm if this is the case? The ramp/cup should also be smooth with no roughness to it, again is this so?

Must admit the ramp (cup) does look very worn (or filed?? as it looks shiny) if this is supposed to be a new gun? If you push a bb into the hop by hand does it push into the rubber part easily or is it very tight?

Disadvantages of weight, aligning the pistol barrel with the rifle sights, changing handhold when you swap to pistol etc outweigh any advantages over a normal practiced transition from primary to secondary weapon. Imagine the fumbling involved trying to reload both in a firefight . . . .

If you've had a custom slide made (presumably based on an airsoft aftermarket slide?) it could be the nozzle doesn't quite line up with the hop unit, which in turn would mean the feed lip which pushes the bb up the feed ramp could be off centre causing the bb to misfeed? Is the blow back unit seated correctly and firmly in place in the slide? As others have said photos or a video would be useful to see whats occurring.

In keeping with the updated AK look, pics of my SRC AKS74U GBBR (reposted from AK picture thread) having just fitted a Vector rail (not straightforward!), AFG, soundhog and reflex holo sight.

Been working on my SRC AKS-74U GBBR, added a real steel Vector Rail, PTS AFG and Noveske Soundhog, all sourced from Dedsec on here. Plus a reflex type holo sight I already had. Fitting the rail was not straightforward as it is a fraction longer than the original handguards and also needed a new narrower gas tube fabricating from various pieces of brass tube, this was a pain to get right but still be large enough to allow the gas piston to move freely inside. Moving the Front sight/gas block forward about 7mm on the barrel solved the length issue thankfully. After all the work it works fine and I'm really pleased with the outcome. So apologies to those who like their AK's to have wood furniture, but my 2 AEG's do have wood furniture if that helps lol!

Nice job! Nice collection too.

Madbull Noveske Soundhog Magpul PTS AFG-2 From Dedsec at a very decent price.

On a related subject I raised an eyebrow that Blue Streak Airsoft allow fixed position support weapons to fire up to 500fps, according to AI Mag review on a recent game. Ouch.

Might be a daft question but are you sure its not just down to cold temperatures affecting the gas pressure?

Try another site next time maybe? And learn to be stealthy. Once you start hitting the guys with expensive guns you'll feel better about it, just don't let idiots spoil it. As for non hit takers, if you are 100% sure you're hitting them then have a quiet word with the marshalls, don't get into a slanging match.