straffham

Welcome to the forum!

Lol Serious adult therapy shooting that if you've had to endure kids watching it over and over!

Try Firesupport, they do a lot of ASG spares but couldn't see the part on a quick search but I'm sure could get them. Failing that they do spare mags £21 (in stock). edit they do have mk23 GBB lips in stock but I suspect they could be different to the NBB lips you need.

edit, soz reposted in error, reply is in next post lol

Welcome to the forum! If £60 is your budget then as said above forget a pistol, you can buy a Double Eagle M56 shotgun in that price, its tri shot (so 3 bb's fire at once), spring powered pump action, with good range and accuracy, mainly plastic but with some metal parts, several guys on here have them. Come in different lengths and with or without stocks, great for CQB but not useless in woodland either. Try browsing Airsoft World or Actionhobbies websites as they usually have them. I really think you'd struggle to find anything better in that price range to be honest.

Have you had a chance to chrono your 74 Chock? Mine was putting out upward of 400fps on green gas/propane with 0.2s but got it down to sub 350 now (indoors at 20 deg), by fitting thin plasticard spacers to the rear of the blowback valve where it sits against the cross pin which keeps it place, so less gas goes to the bb and more to the blowback unit (I want to use propane where possible for cost reasons, maybe with 144a if we get a hot day!)

it does seem V3 boxes are less standardised than V2 ones, I recently replaced a smashed Double Eagle UMP gb case with a Classic Army one and bought a fair few SHS/Core parts to put in it at the same time. Hardly any fitted as I expected them too (including the cylinder head, tappet plate and piston head) and it ended up with several original DE parts inside. I've used many SHS/Core V2 parts with no problem so I'm pretty sure its not down to poor manufacture, but rather which gb make the parts are based on.

If you mean the CO2 mags which hold a CO2 bulb they won't fit as the TM 1911 doesn't have the cut away area inside the grip unlike some others which are designed to use them, also as said above the pressure would likely destroy the gun the first time it was fired. I use green gas in mine and never had a problem.

Very true. For me it was something I only really appreciated after I got divorced. I was upfront with my girlfriend of 4 years and she has no problem with me "going out to play" or the amount of stuff I have lol! That said we don't live together (yet) due to various reasons (space for my gear at her house obviously being the main one ha ha!)

Component Shop def will do a standard 7.2v battery, had one made for mine, nice to see someone else with a Marushin Uzi! Just email them a pic. Think it was about £16 a couple of years ago. Wouldn't mind another couple of mags and a piston if you ever sell any lol! edit its a 4 over 3 cell with the cells arranged across the gun parallel to each other. Make sure you specify long leads!

Welcome to the forum! The MPL takes me back, I had one circa 1990, AA batteries in the front end and a gas reservoir in the pistol grip, cost me £65 at the time lol, used it with a gun tank air cylinder which screwed into the gas inlet (after removing the valve) and pumped with a stirrup handle for free air power! Is the M9 all plastic or metal?

Nice. At least you have one Ian, been looking for one for ages without luck, seen a couple but for silly money (albeit with real deal wood stocks, and one with a genuine SUIT sight). Heard a few tales of woe about them too. Hey ho hopefully Ares will do a run of them at some point.

As with most things AK related!

Found Blasters, Devils and BAW all pretty good tbh. Only ones banned at my local site are any glass or aluminium ones (eg Madbull target bbs).

Give it a firm knock on a hard surface (such as a kitchen worktop, maybe wrap a tea towel round it to prevent marking the mag/worktop lol). This should then push the bbs up if they are still under tension. Sounds like a misformed bb or dirt.

Umarex don't actually make any of those guns, they are chinese clones of other makes which Umarex rebrand with trademarks (H&K etc), although they are supposedly made with better quality control than the standard Jing Gong (or whatever make) versions. Also they are marked as 350fps+ so they may be too "hot" for your local site, meaning you'd have to get them downgraded. G&G do various guns (mainly M4 variants) which come highly recommended by many on here, but as I don't have any experience of that make I'd have to leave it to others to recommend a particular gun (which I'm sure they will ).

Inokatsu M60vn.

Have to say I prefer it to the new Armex/Umarex Beretta ARX 160 which looks like a Scar L that ate all the pies. . . http://armex-airsoft.co.uk/display_weapon.php?id=1415375608

Just checked my local site but already been posted there too. (Alpha55)

Sounds like a plan. If its similar to mine there will be a tiny auto cut off microswitch where the bb feed tube exits the feed unit, which is activated by bb's passing it, and its this that caused most of my problems by either sticking open (burnt out mag motor) or shut (no bb's feeding). Hence why I bypassed it in the end.

It may even be worth just replacing the bushings first, it could be that tollerances are out slightly causing a tight spot in the gear meshing, before splashing out on a motor though.

No worries pal! Its difficult to say 100% what is causing a fault accurately without seeing it first but from your descriptions it does sound as though the motor is likely to be the culprit. A cyma motor is probably your best budget choice as they are good for the price, or possibly a SHS which are a little dearer but again good for the money. Just make sure its the right type for an AK (V3 gearbox) when you order.

when you release the anti reversal latch the spring pushes the piston to the point of least resistance. Thus when you pull the trigger the motor has a few microseconds longer to build up torque and speed hence will fire, then if you stop firing, unless the spring is again under least resistance, the motor obviously isn't able to pull the spring for whatever reason. So if the wiring is ok and the battery is ok the motor does sound the likely problem. By manual cycling I take it you mean turning the gears by inserting a screwdriver into the motor hole in the gearbox? Yes this is very hard to do on a fully working gun anyway so doesn't really prove anything. One more thought, have you tried adjusting the motor height screw? This is usually a grub screw inside the cage that holds the motor in place, inside the hole the pistol grip screw screws into? Could be it needs slackening a little?

Glad you find it helpful! AK gearboxes are Version 3 and the one Lozart listed is compatible, bear in mind it includes the motor too, compared to UK prices its a good price for a complete gearbox with motor. Anyhow the trigger contact switch has roughly parallel brass/ phosphor bronze contacts which are bridged by a metal contact which slots between them when the trigger is pulled. They should be clean and make good contact, any blackening is a sign of arcing (spark erosion) which reduces electrical efficiency (this alone can result in the motor not pulling the spring as you describe). So these parts should be clean (use a burnishing brush or fine wet & dry paper if need be) and the 2 parallel contacts should "spring" slightly when they are bridged (sometimes bending them toward each other a tiny bit helps but be careful they don't snap off, and also that the bridge piece still slides between them). As for bushings yes its the diameter of the narrower part that counts (ie the hole in the gearbox shell they sit in). Try Pete from this forum for parts, he may be able to sort you out. His website is: www.ak2m4.co.uk

I'd be surprised if it was the motor, but its a possibility. Equally it could be the trigger contacts or battery connector has some wear resulting in poor electrical contact, it would be worth checking them as it costs nothing to do so. Bushings come in different sizes (older guns generally have 6mm bushings, newer ones generally are 8mm so you'll need to check if you replace them. But as Chock says the only surefire way of sorting it first time is a new gearbox.