Adam3088

King arms + g&g both do p90's for similar money, CYMA do a much cheaper one but that might be crap, know nothing about it. Google aforementioned manufacturers + p90 and you'll have your answer.

Rebuilt the gearbox, all appears to be working correctly now. I had to clip the spring in the end, even with a bearing removed I had to compress it so much it was bloody impossible to get in. Used a dremmel to hack off 3 coils and then ground the end flat. I reckon it's shooting 310-320ish now, but will have to wait and see until I can actually chrono. Sounds a bit whiney still but that may just be from the pinion as it's stock and not a brilliant fit with the new gears.

Very odd! I noticed that the tappet plate is a non standard length as well, hate proprietary stuff.. Think the zci piston is ok, had it on full auto for a while and its not locked up as of yet... I'll drop the bearing in the piston for now, will keep the new spring guide in as the stock one was a bit naff. Actually thinking about it I can just remove the bearing from the guide, that'll do the trick.

The stock spring in WE aeg's is an odd one, it's quite a bit shorter then a standard spring but is also softer then the M100 I have. Stock one was shooting at ~260ish. Wondering if the M100 spring is being a bit over-compressed as it's now got bearing guide + head + pads fixing aoe? My air seal is very good now, put an o-ring nozzle in there combined with the new piston head, didn't even need to tape up the cylinder head. Think I'll try to compress the M100 a bit overnight, don't want to shortstroke really as the piston only has 1 steel tooth.

What holster are you using? Lost a G19 mag using a WAS dropleg holster, seems the multipurpose fabric ones aren't always very secure on the mag release..

Ahh ok, didn't realise bearing heads were more susceptible to undoing themselves. I've stuck a load of blue loctite in there so will so how it holds up this time, was a bit surprised it had undone itself after so few shots as I'd tightened it up pretty well. I'll see how it goes this time, if it comes off again I'll remove the bearing, thanks! After sitting down for a while I realised why it had seized up, when the head detached the piston must've been unable to travel all the way forwards (screw in the way or whatever), so when the gear picked it back up it pulled back to the release point but there were still teeth left to pull it back, resulting in jammage. On a slightly related note, I've got a M100 spring to go in it (one of those springs where not all the coils are evenly spaced) but holy sh*t the amount of effort required to actually get it into the gearbox is unreal, are they normally that difficult when new? Thinking of clipping off a couple of coils so I can actually get it in.. Only other v2 I've taken apart was my M4 and that spring went back in very easily.

Yeah, think that probably happened after it broke free

So after rebuilding a v2 gearbox it fired 50odd shots fine, suddenly seizes up with the piston all the way back, spring tension release wouldn't move the AR latch so I had to open it up under full tension. Cant see anything wrong with the gears/av latch but the piston head had detached itself from the piston.. It's a ZCI silent head on a ZCI piston, stock cylinder + head with neoprene pads glued on to fix the aoe. Any reason why this might have happened? The head was very well attached when it all went together, and still cant understand how it seized..

Finally managed to get this finished (sort of), few bits were an absolute pain in the arse. I've managed to bugger up the spring on the selector when putting it back in, alligned the ball bearing + spring, tightened the selector...twist aaaand one mangled spring. Awesome, cant even see how it went wrong. Well I'm an idiot, thought about it for 5 minutes and realised that I'd just not been pushing the selector in far enough..takes quite a bit of force to click it on the last bit. Also found a clip inside the gearbox after dissasembly, looks like the type used to stop a body pin from coming all the way out, for the life of me cant work out where it was meant to be though. Things done: PTFE ZCI 6.02 barrel, nice and stable now ZCI re-enforced steel shims ZCI enhanced 18:1 gears ZCI steel spring guide ZCI silent piston head ZCI Shims o-ring air nozzle Fixed aoe with neoprene washers (didnt bother with sorbo) Non-AB Airfet 16awg silver wire ...magpul pistol grip, stock one pissed me off too much with lack of space Think I may need to swap out the pinion as well though as it sounds a bit whiny? https://youtu.be/qqN9WBBDjF0

Surely a layer of oil would just attract residue to adhere to the barrel?

Welcome to the forum! There's now a huge amount of Airsoft tutorial content on YouTube, might be worth a look to help you get the g3 back together.

Done some speedsoft/speedqb/whatever before, really enjoy it, if anything I liked it more then regular airsoft. Does very much come down to who's playing though, if somebody cheats or acts like a dick it has a much more negative effect then in a normal game..

Don't really want to be sticking oil down the barrel, will cause problems with the hop rubber. I take the hop unit off the barrel, remove the rubber, cut up 2-3 strips of jay cloth, put one through the end of the barrel cleaning stick, dip it in white spirit and run it through the barrel repeatedly while twisting. Then take a clean bit of cloth, put that on the stick and then run it through again. Then just put it back together, if the hop rubber is oily then give it a wash in some warm water + washing up liquid.

Ordered a casv front end for my scar, also got a whole bunch of zci bits to go inside it..

Have been using the premium bio 0.25g gunfire rockets, at ~£8 per 3k +p&p they've been good so far.

The cheapo killflashes are alrite, found mine was a bit dark to look through though, so popped out the mesh and replaced it with some thin polycarb.

If you have valid reenactor insurance that's perfectly fine as a legal defence, a lot of retailers most likely won't be too keen on accepting it though as it gives them a nice simple paper trail with UKARA. Best bet is emailing a bunch of sellers and hoping one of them is a bit more easygoing, or you could play the three games and wait the painful couple of weeks for your number to appear...

It'll give you a faster trigger response and greater capacity for the size, but unless you get an 11.1v its not going to up the rof noticeably. Do not use an 11.1v without upgrading the gearbox first! Without certain changes that gearbox's life will be short and noisy.

If you're spending ~£100 why not spend just a bit more and get WAS gear from the UK?

Pretty much any Airsoft shop, eBay, Amazon? Is this a trick question?

I've not been to 39 in a long time, was planning on going next weekend but unfortunately I'm on holiday then, it is still being run regularly though. But as I've not been to the mod site, can't comment on its current form. Another good local site is Raw war Airsoft which is held at tendring paintball extreme. Normally gets 50-60 people, is very well run and as long as you don't mind a bit of paint the place has a pretty awesome setup (does milsim lite + normal days). Last time I went the sportsmanship was excellent, no moaning at all, game only had to be stopped once because a guy got stung by a wasp.

Is it one with the metal receiver, what's the quality like on the externals?

Awesome, thanks. Ordered a bunch of it, my mistake was searching for 16awg so none of that was appearing... Just need to order an air nozzle and some neoprene to sort out aoe and that's everything done.