Lozart

Yes, the design of the V2 gearbox is such that if you spam the trigger then you can end up with the cut off lever out of whack which then locks the gearbox. Usually on a select fire gun you can switch to auto, fire a burst and then you're away again. You can unlock the gearbox by either doing what has been suggested above (although with the obvious caveat that if you lose an eye we never told you to do it) or by taking off the pistol grip and unlatching the anti reversal latch. To stop it happening again, your best bet is to fit a decent mosfet that can do full cycle completion (Gate Titan or Aster, Perun V2 Hybrid etc). That way the gun will not fire again until the gearbox has cycled fully and the cut off lever won't end up out of place again. It also means you can set up precocking which is lovely and great for a DMR type gun. You can achieve this with a lower spec mosfet such as a Gate Warfet but it's a bit more hit and miss and takes more setting up because you need to tune the ROF control to slow you down enough to not lock up and precocking is again doable but needs a bit more judgement on getting it in the best place.

Please tell me that was deliberate!

The Cyma shotties are as good as any other springer. I have a gas JG/Golden Eagle (whatever they call them) and that's pretty nice for a sub £100 gas shotgun (it's a little breacher style jobbie).

Logistics of where the gas is stored aside, if you're doing CQB training then a "quick reload" should be a tactical reload not an emergency reload. If you're talking about target shooting and trying to get reloads down to the lowest possible then that's another thing altogether. Equally, why do you say "gas magazines can't be dropped"? Other than maybe damaging a feed lip what other damage are they realistically going to suffer?

Nice, are they the Airsoft Artisan MLok rails?

What FPS are you getting? Did you flat hop the Prommy rubber or is it one of their ones without the bump?

Like what exactly?

They all look the same but there are some differences. If you don't buy an original one I can almost guarantee that it won't quite work right without some kinetic engineering.

Still £359 from Patrolbase https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/g-and-g-armament-sr30-m-lok

What sort of play do you get with both sides of the GB on and the motor cage attached properly?

Depending on your level of spendyness, I did find a spot on replica on a certain asian "express" website...

With regards to the outer barrel vs silencer - depending on how long he wants to go that will look ridiculous without a matching handguard (the original inner barrel is only 280mm long). Personally I'd go for the new barrel and handguard but budget isn't the same for everyone. As for the hop rubber, Maple Leaf is a good shout but the Krytac arm has a weird bit for holding the nub, don't think it'll work with the Omega nub he'd need. Still, £8 zci rotary and bob's your mothers live in lover.

Yeah..... don't do that.

You're right that it is most likely the selector plate that is causing the non function, but having stripped it down he can now see that the piston and head have seen better days and that the gears have been rubbing together. Now he can fix the selector plate AND improve the rest of the performance.

Basic Aster is about £62 depending on who you buy from. Same as a Perun V2 Hybrid. If you NEED all the features of Titan with the Advanced firmware then yes, it's expensive. If you need the features required for controlling a DMR (precocking, trigger travel, electronic lock to semi, ROF control, Active Braking) then you don't need the same feature set, these all come as standard on the Aster Basic which also has the advantage that if you have the USB link or the Blu Link then you can program it from your phone instead of dicking about with switches and the trigger (you can of course still program the Aster from the trigger anyway). It also give you much clearer diagnostics if you start getting issues with your optical sensors or the motor. Ultimately it's down to personal preference but the options AREN'T just Perun Hybrid or a full blown Titan.

Why so many if you don't know they work yet? I mean, it's your money but... More often than not it's misinformed people that think they have to fire at exactly 350fps (you don't) and that the groupings aren't just lack of ability (it usually is) or ignoring physics (small plastic balls, outdoors, breezes - go figure). Nobody NEEDS to spend a crapping fortune upgrading their TM recoil. Any gun that costs £400+ should be more than capable on the field, if it isn't maybe it's the player not the gun. Or else you bought a shit gun without bothering to do any research. With regards to the reviews you've seen, if they are indeed mostly US based then you need to remember that they usually run at much higher FPS limits. As most guns are built for the Asian market (especially Tokyo Marui) they aren't set up for high power and often don't stand up well to the rigours of 400+ FPS full auto use. Hence they tend to prefer brands that DO work well in that way and will argue that G&G, TM etc are all garbage that need to be ripped apart and rebuilt with pig iron to be decent.

Gotcha. The Aster Basic has precocking and fire mode control as standard although they're not AS advanced as the Titan, you can however get more fancy stuff by upgrading the firmware.

You know that needs a Unity FTC mount for the magnifier though, right?

Absolutely fair play! I just wondered if there was a way of replicating that function.

Seems a bit of a faff, how do the Taginn made launchers do it?

Mine's one of the last of the current batch, new patch is in the works apparently!

Are you having to charge it every shot?

The USB Link is only £25, the Gate Aster and Perun Hybrid are around the same price as each other, I'm not sure where the £65-75 extra is coming from?