Lozart

Palm oil isn't the demon product everyone seems to think though. It has a far denser output for acre than standard veg oil crops so if you force the palm oil producers to abandon it they will actually have to deforest a BIGGER area which is then WORSE for environmental impact. Better to regulate it properly now that it's already there. Plant based packaging is still a good idea though.

Physical adaptations to your play style, yes. Spunking money on chasing performance to the nth degree, no. Unless you just want to tinker and you enjoy that, in which case more power to you! That said, if it's your only gun then do the basics and then get out and play more. Save up and buy a speedyboi SSG1 and THEN start tearing into the CM16 (assuming that by that point you still want to be doing the whole Dye mask, SpeedQB thing of course).

Here's an off the wall idea - is the end of the barrel clear of any obstructions? Does it behave the same way if you take the flash hider off for instance?

What ammo are you using, what range are you actually getting and have you properly adjusted the hop?

Couple of things to consider - get a better ventilated design of helmet - Team Wendy, Air Frame etc all vent better than a FAST helmet (I have all three styles) if you're dead set on putting fans in, take a look at what the cosplay guys do (it's pretty common in Stormtrooper helmets) https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/36631-how-to-diy-usb-helmet-fans-no-more-9v-or-aas/ think about things like where your battery will go (I'd suggest using an NVG battery holder on the back) make sure the helmet ventilates well in the first place - the cheap Emerson helmets come with a solid polystyrene liner, whereas the FMA ones come with individual pads for example

If the cosplay crowd are anything to go by, every fucker in Starfleet is an Admiral!

It's a set of Nomex overalls, not shirt and trousers. https://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/160651-iranian-embassy-siege80s-sas-loadout/ There's plenty of black overalls on Military 1st https://www.military1st.co.uk/11730002-mil-tec-swat-overall-black.html https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221958464312?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338364431&customid=221958464312_1&toolid=11000 Genuine issue vest https://www.fieldtextiles.co.uk/shop/clothing/jackets/sbs-sas-assault-vest-1123539.html (probably a bit steep but there's repros out there)

Errrmmm....where did you go play?

etc...

It's your gun so you do you but why so many red dots?

Don't over think it.

This is the thing for me. There's a huge difference between trying to complete a loadout and walting and it seems that most of the people getting all hot and bothered about "stolen valour" aren't actually servicemen at all but wannabe try hards. I mean yes, there's the whole "don't wear something if it has to be earned" like a commando insignia or whatever but if ANYONE tells me that they think a 14 year old kid or some overweight, middle aged weekend warrior is honestly trying to make out that they served by wearing an SAS badge to a Sunday skirmish then they're being bell ends. The old boys covered in gongs at remembrance services or people trying to pass themselves off for a discount or special treatment are the problem, not a few airsofters looking to replicate a 90's Delta operator!

Personally, I'd fit a Gate Titan or Aster but Perun V2 Hybrid would also work. Basically anything that senses the gear rotation to be able to stop it in the same place each time. That being said, it doesn't actually matter all that much unless you're getting feeding issues or you're trying to get accurate pre-cocking. Inconsistent hop is unlikely to be adversely affected by the piston not stopping in the same place. I'd also get rid of all that bloody PTFE tape. There doesn't look to be much in the way of lubrication either (although that may just be the picture).

That'll be your problem then.

I have a similar one (old Ferro Concepts jobber) and it's good but it does have its limitations. It's not great for transitioning from right to left shoulders, it doesn't control your gun AT ALL when you swap to your sidearm and it's a faff to change setup (from PC to chest rig for example).

Are you running a cycle completion mosfet or precocking based on time?

If the wiring is getting hot, it's because there's too much current for the size/makeup of the wiring. Changing the connector from Tamiya to Deans isn't the solution, if anything it would make it worse. If the connector was acting as a bottleneck then IT would get hot, not the wiring (if it's getting hotter than the wiring then you really do have a problem). Basically it sounds like the motor is pulling more current than the wiring can handle on account of the combination of that motor and that gearing.

I have plenty of lightweight guns like M4s and stuff that are about the weight of that. I also have an M249 Para that weighs even more. For perspective, 3kgs really isn't heavy.

Not surprised, my hop units would struggle to lift a 3g BB!

Hi, what are you trying to do? Post limits were put in place to try and combat spammers and scammers so they're there for everyone's benefit.

*laughs in M14 EBR*

What he said. It's pretty typical woodland for the area, lots of pine trees but also lots of reasonably dense cover. Also their DMR limits are 400FPS and 30m MED so they're not THAT effective there, single only stops anyone from dominating an area with an LMG so there's that too. Works pretty well. I mean, yes, there's areas set out with man made barricades like this: but there's also wooded areas with plenty of undergrowth:

I was there a few weeks back and had a great day. Semi only in woodland is a bit gash, sure but then equally you don't actually have to hose down anything that moves to suppress a position either.

The ARP series uses a very specific nut and mounting bracket design, however the receiver itself appears to have a standard threaded end on it so it should be able to take any aftermarket rail as long as it comes with its own nut. That assumes of course that the receiver is a standard M4 profile and that the rail height above bore isn't wildly off-spec.

Could it be the adjustable nozzle not properly sealing? Might be some airloss through the threaded portion - try putting some silicone grease on the threads and see if that makes a difference.