Lozart

You may have a couple of duff ones, it's possible. Yes you'll feel more resistance as you fill the mag (you're compressing a spring after all) but you shouldn't feel like you're forcing the BBs in.

Blue Max. No, not a porno but a WW1 fighter ace film. You can actually see the "crashing" planes pulling out of their dives as they get near the ground. FFS And don't get me started on all the Me109s in The Battle of Britain with the wrong engines!

Have you checked that they haven't just sent you the wrong mag? G&G do both 120rd mid caps AND 79rnd mid caps. That would certainly cause the sort of problems you describe!

Plenty of mags need a bit of breaking in before they reach their full potential. This could very easily be the case here. A small amount of silicone oil down the feed tube followed by successive loading and reloading (NOT firing through the gun mind, just load the mag then manually release the catch and let the BBs come out into a bag) would very possibly help. Don't use that particular batch of BBs again though as they'll potentially be contaminated with oil. It's worth trying before you start splashing loads of money on mags you might not need at any rate. The G&G high cap that came with my SCAR for example feeds flawlessly every time. Also 0.3g BBs aren't really worth trying unless you're planning on running your AEG at over 350FPS. 0.28g are about the highest I would look to go with in a standard AEG to be honest.

Don't use the torch unless you have to or get a filter for it. Quickest way to destroy your night vision.

I saw Act of Valor (mostly because of the chick from Without a Trace but also - guns). It's amazing how bad the acting is and yet the action scenes are some of the best I've seen in war films.

The MPX is 9mm, the MCX is 300BLK or 5.56.

Standard M4 inner barrel is only 363mm long.

Indeed. WIll let you know what it's like. Slightly dubiously though the actual seller appears to be based in China but selling out of an address in Portsmouth....

No idea.

Yes.

Cool, keep us in the loop!

Sounds good to me then. When are you opening?

OK, buy one of the supplies in that Ebay link then. The Turnigy charger you mentioned will charge at a maximum of 800mA so it'll take at least a couple of hours to do your battery. Personally I wouldn't use anything that isn't a proper smart charger so you can see what's going on (I have the mains powered B6AC). Did you wait for the green charging light to go out?

If it's the 12v B6 one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/imax-b6-power-supply

Is it the B6 or the B6AC?

Really? That would only just cover the cost of a spring! Did he buy it from the same shop?

Ha haa! If I had a pound for everyone that told me "well it's just a bit of software" I'd be buying a GHK M4! Personally I don't think £30ish is unreasonable for a job like that. At all. My personal experience was getting repeatedly charged for labour to fix an issue caused by the initial simple job. Which led to me then thinking "fuck that for a game of soldiers" and learning how to do it myself. Of course, you need to work out a reasonable hourly rate then charge accordingly but nobody should have to pay for longer than it actually takes to do a job just because you were a bit slack that day and took 3 hours to change a flash hider. In my sideline of custom painting I get this kind of thing all the time. People see American Chopper and think that Nub actually paints the tins for a whole bike in an hour which is patently bollocks. Of course there's also the "but my mate'll do it for X" which was always met by me with "so let him do it then". People are twats far more often than we would like to believe but that's no excuse for overcharging.

I agree with most of what you've said, but this bit causes me some concern. While you cannot account for previous work by others or for damage caused by the user you CAN and SHOULD be prepared to warranty your own work. If you open up a gun and can see that there's been some previous bodgery that would likely affect the performance of the work you've been asked to do then I for one would expect to be contacted at that point BEFORE you carry out any further work and informed of the potential issue and asked if I wanted to continue with the work asked for. At that point I would then think it perfectly reasonable for you to turn to me and say "look, I've warned you that the parts/work previously done may cause an issue so while I stand by my own work it may still fail due to the previously mentioned problems". If I wasn't warned about it prior to getting the gun back and indeed paying for it then I'd be pretty pissed off if it broke and then got the standard "yeah well...it's them other bits what someone else fitted innit" response. Unfortunately the latter case of the idiot customer that deliberately abuses the gun and then tries to pin it on your work is all too common. If there's an obvious pointer to user based issues (in the software engineering world we call it a PEBKAC issue - Problem Exists Between Keyboard And Chair) the you could justifiably point to that evidence and say sorry, not my fault but I'll fix it for you at my standard rates. Of course if no such evidence exists even if you KNOW deep down in your heart of hearts that there is no way this could possibly have been caused by anything OTHER than a fuckwit being let loose with a shiny toy then I'm afraid you just have to swallow your professional pride and fix it anyway or tell him to get lost and risk the internet based wrath of a pissed of customer. Who is ALWAYS right, like it or not.

Standard DPM. Available in loads of surplus stores and dirt cheap. It's the colour it is because (unlike MTP/Multiglam et al) it's designed for temperate woodland use (like what we have here innit).

OK, so if you have that charger the display tells you what the charge rate is before you start charging. It also stops automatically when it's finished. If you've not changed the default settings then chances are you'll be charging at 0.1A which is WAY too low. an 1100mAh LiPo should be able to be charged at 1100mA (1.1A) so I would suggest you check your charge settings. The cell voltage isn't always the best way to check if your battery is full or not.

I'd be interested in knowing what sight you have then. The holo sight I have is too bright even on the lowest setting and even then is still fuzzy with ghosting too. Cheap sight not as good as iron sights non shocker.

What was the charge rate? What is the battery capacity? Did it stop dead or start slowing down first? What gun is it?

Probably does but that's what we're talking about