TacMaster

A 7.4V LiPo is definitely your best bet. You don't want to fry your first gun's trigger contacts with an 11.1. This should fit.

Next week: PVA glue for beginners

I've noticed that MTP can be surprisingly effective on lighter nights when the moon's out, and it doesn't limit you to the shadows as much as DPM would- in the daytime it's all subjective as to the terrain it's used on. Some training areas around Bordon/Aldershot way as well as some aspects of Salisbury plain are very sandy or have lighter soil, making MTP more effective- however it would be nowhere near as good in the Welsh valleys or the Scottish highlands. At a stretch it might be effective in Lincolnshire and other corn growing areas.

Hands off, it's mine!

New kit is very common. Stand out with Vietnam kit! I've always wanted to put one together with an M14 but never been able to

The things you've mentioned in your post are external modifications, not upgrades. The airsoft definition for an upgrade is, in short, a better than standard internal part used to replace standard internal parts. Batteries are just consumables that have an effect on rate of fire. As Bulldog shorty M4 AEGs (and almost all low-end guns) cannot be easily upgraded, I would suggest saving your money for a better AEG (over £130 RRP at least) until your current gun breaks.

G&G TR16 CRW? G&G Fire Hawk? I think the Silverback PP19 might be smaller than an AKS74U as well. Otherwise you're pretty limited. I know there are M4 patriot kits as well if you don't like these 2^

TM Recoil. With that budget, screw mostly everything else- except maybe Real Sword weapons, which are very special in their own way- RS' airsoft guns are made with demilled real steel rifle parts.

You need to push the BBs down below the rubber O-ring to prevent them falling out. Use an AEG unjamming rod to push the BBs down. Either that or unscrew the 2 parts of the grenade and fill it with BBs from the other end- makes it easier to fill as there is no retaining O-ring on that side to ram the BBs past.

Maybe take a look at the Mosquito Moulds mini grenade launchers if you wanted to commit?

My 'like a boss' decal arrived- obligatory rifle photo post

G&G Combat Machine M4s. That's the best for a beginner.

With a Ghillie wrap for the SVD it'd look even better

Milspec Monkey 'Like a Boss' sticker Milspec 6/9 velcro patch 2x £9 incl. P&P, courtesy of FireSupport.

Welsh indie rock band called Catfish and the Bottlemen. They've just released their debut album 'The Balcony'.

If you have the moola for an SLS machine (Selective Laser Sintering) then you could really create some useful products for airsoft. SLS is basically the inverse form of 3D printing; instead of the plastic being applied in a shape, a computer controlled CO2 laser melts nylon powder. It's guided by a CAD program that splits a 3D model up into layers between 0.5-1.0mm thick, then the laser sinters each layer of the model onto a work platform (covered with a coating of nylon powder) every pass. After the 1st layer is sintered, a roller spreads more nylon powder over the work platform and the next layer is created. It's got a very long cycle time for larger products and can be quite expensive. The best part is that some SLS machines can be used for sintering metal powders- so there would be no issue sintering an aluminium hop chamber replacement with amazing accuracy achievable with a CAD program

A&K have very good reputation for their SVDs. Out of the box, the upgrades many users have added include: Cocking handle extender- makes it much easier to pull the bolt back A high quality tightbore, Prometheus and PDi are good choices Enhanced spring sears- the stock spring is quite powerful from what I've heard There may be more needed for it, and I'm sure an owner can tell you- this is just me repeating what I dimly remember reading before

The S-Thunder metal GL is definitely worth it. I'm using SHS full size 120 round grenades in mine. While the plastic one is cheaper by about £15, as PT247 has said it's a little fragile with CO2 grenades. And even if you're only using green gas/propane to power the grenade, you still get the bonus of having a RIS rail on the top- while that's not really needed, it's still nice to have a reference point to look down when aiming. This will be invaluable if you get some TAG grenades, because since they actually launch a single projectile you really do need a reference point for aiming with the GL. As well as this you can get RIS to RIS adaptors to mount the GL to a rifle if you so wish.

Bit clunky and hefty to wear a PC and rucksack while sniping

Most sites have a blanket ban on any CO2 weapon regardless of it's FPS.

'They never said anything about this in bootcamp!'

You will need to do some extensive internal work to get it firing between 425-450 FPS. This will include changing: Motor (for a high torque one to pull a stronger spring) A new spring- as said before, an M120 is your best bet Gears may need looking at or changing. Angle of Engagement correction is a must Piston and piston head in case the new gears strip the piston's teeth. The new piston must be a softer material than the gears. The piston head will improve airflow Air nozzle- again, improving seals and airflow PTFE tape wrap around the hop rubber's end- will improve the air seal A Gate Nano/Pico AB MOSFET or any other decent Fet to improve trigger response Hop unit will have to be exchanged if it's shite or have a new rubber and nub in. R-Hop mods are popular and mine gives me good results in my M27, but they're fiddly to set up perfectly A TBB. None of this MadBull crap for DMRs, you'll need a Prometheus barrel to get the best from it Wiring the rifle to Deans connectors for LiPo batteries is a must. Deans connectors have the largest contacts between battery and gun, meaning there is less resistance compared to Tamiya connectors which have a much smaller contact area. LiPo batteries are a must in my opinion. You can't get the best out of your gun's trigger response without a LiPo, and if you've installed a MOSFET you will get the best out of it. A while back I was looking at converting a CYMA MP5 to DMR standard. All of the parts cost about £100 in total, however that wasn't including a few parts which the stock components had the same performance as (IE the motor- CYMA's motors are pretty decent). My current DMR wasn't done by myself, I bought it for a steal on a 2nd hand FB page, and it's had a lot more done internally than my barebones MP5 DMR project. IDK what the total upgrade cost was, but I bought it for around £320 (the base gun was £450, £500 in places) and a LOT of internal upgrades were done to it (including all of the above and some more). It's performing brilliantly, and the only work needed doing to it is external bits and pieces I haven't got round to buying.

That's extremely reasonable compared to some of these airsoft specific rifle/pistol storage solutions- the modular rifle rack sold on AW is ridiculously expensive!

Begadi MP5 mag pouches are the dog's bollocks I've got a triple velcro-topped MP5 pouch in OD if you're after one cheap. They sell for about £17 RRP.