proffrink

That makes almost no sense at all - is the button missing or just non-functional? Could could always hit quote and copy/paste multiple times. I've had to do that before.

Then PM them instead. 1. Doesn't dredge up old and dead threads and 2. It will probably end up in their e-mail inbox and they'll reply to you quicker. That chap hasn't been online since May so the chances of him checking this thread are incredibly low unfortunately.

CanIRunIt is not very useful these days - don't bother with it. There are so many variables in PC gaming that it's basically impossible to predict - with reliable accuracy - what level you can play a game at. Especially as it goes off the developer-recommended specs. which become completely obsolete after a few months anyway. Here's a website I've been using recently for fiddling with builds though that I think has surpassed PCPartPicker for ease of use (who haven't updated their website in ages): http://choosemypc.net/. It will still link back to PCPartPicker if you want to swap things out etc.

The JG is a near carbon copy. The only difference I've noticed so far is the rear trigger mech screw is 1mm wider. That was actually a bit of a pain to sort out. The TM is much better out of the box with a decent bucking, but if you're upgrading there's almost no reason to splash out on one.

Na m80. JG BAR then upgrade that sheit. Nicer stock anyway - less prolific join lines. Only negative seems to be the magwell which needs about 0.5-1mm removed from one end to not be too tight.

Don't worry too much about hyperthreading on your CPU - no need to go above an i5, but I would say perhaps an i3 is a little too small. Most games don't utilise it well, and most modern games are very good at utilising the GPU over CPU (the biggest exception being ArmA, which is one of the shittiest-ly made games when it comes to performance as it relies heavily on your CPU). As people have said, get a 900 series - they are exceeding good value. Don't spend more than £40 on your case if you can help it, and look for other things that you can upgrade later. Upgrading the motherboard later on a little tricky if you ask me, whereas adding HDDs or SSDs is really straight forward. Don't skimp on the PSU. The technology involved in making PSUs has remained the same for years and won't change soon. I'm still using a nice one I bought 5 years ago, and you can carry it over to any subsequent build. Also, cheaper ones might go kaput and - in some extreme cases - fry everything you own. The one you have picked looks decent enough. Fans are something else that people always neglect to buy. Case fans are almost always complete crap - spend an extra £40-60 later on and get some nice, quiet, high flow ones and it'll improve your gaming experience significantly. PC gaming isn't cheap I'm afraid. A £500 build in the UK is hard to do because parts here are about 20% more expensive than in the US (where most of the guides on this sort of thing are written). Also, I'll see if I can get a hold of a Windows 10 key for you. I know a chap that gets them free through his work.

I've found fore-grips make my aiming super lazy, but I'm in agreement with Samurai that the MOE grips are very comfortable. I've owned clones, PTS and the real steel ones and it makes very little difference (though the real ones are a little thicker-walled and so more sturdy). Like all things with airsoft though, I feel ultimately that Kinnerly is more right than both of us: It's a preference thing. You need to give one a go if possible, or take a bit of a gamble on whether it's going to suit you or not.

I have one spare - cover the cost and postage and it's yours.

Well glad to hear you have it under control. Way outside my area of knowledge now though - the M249 trigger is literally a screw on the end of a pivot. I'm not even kidding.

Well, there's really no solution to that unfortunately.

Well it's a long shot but if anyone is heading in from Bournemouth and wants fuel money then, ya know, I'm in.

How did I manage that?

I can't even see anything above 0.32s on Gunfire - they don't even have a page for them. Weird.

I may have found a source. Another retailer, ASGShop.pl: http://en.asgshop.pl/produkt.php?cat=3&id=5793 I've put in an invoice request so we'll see what happens. Also, they seem to sell their own 'Smart Gas' that's a whole 2 cents cheaper than Gunfire's. Same can design, same sizes - almost certainly the same stuff with a different label. I've added a few cans of that too to test. I couldn't see those or the 0.43s. Could you link us?

So I got the following replied from Code Red: I also asked them about the comment on their store page where they said the UV-5R was having problems in some cases and whether it was a particular batch number: Needless to say, I've ordered one. What's it like?

Hm, well honestly if you have a brass or steel barrel bending isn't an issue unless you've really given it some welly. Aluminium seems to be what buckles easiest. Usual fix is Teflon tape both over the barrel (between the bucking and barrel) and then a couple of wraps around the bucking itself (not where the actual nub is). You should absolutely not be losing pressure though - the DGs have incredibly well machined hop units that clam very tightly onto the barrel. Last thing I could suggest is maybe checking your R-Hop if you ended up doing one as those - in theory - should provide a near-perfect air seal if you've done it properly. Loctite everything at some point. I'm dreading doing it, but I need to completely disassemble and reassemble mine as that's recommended during break-in to get a full clean and re-lube. when it goes back together it's getting the red stuff not the blue. Did you do the water test and make sure you have no air leaks anywhere? Also, the 500mm seems alright. Like I said, high air consumption as I have to run at around 130psi, but as it's damn near impossible to get a straight answer out of the FB group I'm not sure if that's bad or not. I may cut a coil or two to reduce recoil and up the fps (so I can drop the pressure to bring it back to 1.17J), but I dunno.

Na, I'll just take the yo-yo.

What can I trade my points in for?

I missed a trick by not opening a new thread to ask if we could have the search character limit reduced. Ya win some ya lose some I guess.

Please get Devastator to reduce the search query character length minimum to 3 rather than 4. Will clear up a lot of issues.

It's possible your bucking had just slipped or something - mine rotated almost 90 degrees after the first 500 shots! I'm still having to clock in almost 130psi to hit the equivalent of 350 with mine but it's a 500mm wide bore so I'm losing air like crazy anyway. The parts will shift a lot during break in. Are you being sure to tighten well and putting loctite on the parts? If you need to get it apart you can use a heat gun (though be careful if you're getting that much heat near the bucking). Depends on how it performs regarding the ORGA barrel. If it's working like you want it then a barrel upgrade is probably pointless. If not, grab one as it's the final variable here after you've broken it in.

I might give them a try. I've given Devil .30s a go in my M249 but I can't tell if they're any good as that thing chops like there's no tomorrow until it hits the 8-10k mark.

Where do you source yours? RWA UK?

That's a bummer. You'd have thought it would be something they'd think of too if the same technology is being applied to those for tactical entry teams and the like. The concept is certainly cool though - if I can find out more about them I might go for something similar as not having a big old mic boom is certainly a plus for me.

I was going to put this in the simple questions thread, but I feel it probably needs multiple inputs so here goes nothing. I recently got a Baofeng UV-5R. Whilst I'm waiting for my licence to come through, I've been wondering about headsets. I've got a budget of up to £80, and I'd ideally like something that gives me as much situational audio as possible too (so single-ear headsets would be nice). I'm wondering what you've all tried and what to avoid and if bone induction earpieces are viable at all or if they're still kind of naff. Thanks all. Oh and it's the Kenwood 2-pin type headsets that is accepts if I've understood the rather brief manual correctly.